Oaxaca, in my opinion, is one of the best food cities in Mexico. I know that's a big statement, but after traveling around the country, this is the city where I had the most fun eating. Oaxaca's cuisine is incredibly diverse, deeply rooted in Indigenous traditions, and packed with complex flavors that reminded me so much of the food back home in Thailand.
From the Mexican answer to pizza, tlayudas, to rich and flavorful mole, local chocolate, coffee, and mezcal, there is always something new to try. The best part is that these foods are all incredibly accessible, and you don't need to spend a fortune to eat well here.
In this Oaxaca food guide, I'll share all my favorite places to eat and drink, from the best markets and traditional Oaxacan dishes to cozy cafรฉs, local chocolate and coffee, and restaurants worth seeking out. No matter if you're here for a few days or planning an entire food-focused trip, hopefully this guide will give you plenty of ideas for eating your way through Oaxaca.

Map of Oaxaca's Cafes & Restaurants
7 Best Places to Eat & Drink in Oaxaca
1. Try Tlayudas at Mercado 20 de Noviembre
- ๐ Location: Mercado 20 de Noviembre [Map Link]
- ๐ Opening Hours: 7 AM - 7 PM
- ๐ฐ Price Range: Average
One of the first Oaxacan dishes you should try is a tlayuda, and there's no better place to start than Mercado 20 de Noviembre. This enormous, crispy tortilla is typically spread with refried beans and topped with quesillo, meat, avocado, tomatoes, and salsa, then grilled until everything is hot and the tortilla gets wonderfully crisp.
It's basically Oaxaca's answer to pizza, except much more interesting! The market is one of the city's most traditional places to try it, alongside other Oaxacan specialties like mole, memelas, and tamales. I had my first tlayuda here and absolutely loved it.
You can order one with different toppings depending on what you like, so don't be afraid to ask what's available and let the vendors guide you. There are plenty of stalls around the market serving them, so just pick whichever one catches your eye and give it a try. The market is open from 7 AM to 7 PM daily.
- Gastronomic Safari in Oaxaca Market (3 hours)
2. Enjoy Grill Meat at the Smoke Hall of Mercado 20 de Noviembre
- ๐ Location: Pasillo de Humo [Map Link]
- ๐ Opening Hours: 7 AM - 7 PM
- ๐ฐ Price Range: Average
If you're a looking for something heavier and more filling, make your way through Mercado 20 de Noviembre and check out the Pasillo de Humo, or "Smoke Hall," located inside the market and pick the kind of meat you like the eat and they will grill it for you right there and then, asada style!
That's why they call this area of the market the Smoke Hall! This famous corridor is essentially one giant open-air charcoal grill, where you'll find Oaxacan favorites like tasajo, cecina, chorizo, and ribs, with the smell of charcoal and sizzling meat filling the entire corridor.
The way it works is pretty straightforward: pick the meat you want from one of the vendors at the hall, have them grill it over hot charcoal, then grab some fresh tortillas, grilled onions, chilies, salsa, guacamole, and other sides to go with it. You can then sit down at one of the communal tables and dig in. I recommend getting a few different meats to share so you can try the different flavors.
Be prepared for it to be very smoky, though. The Smoke Hall has improved ventilation, but you're still sitting surrounded by charcoal grills, so your clothes and hair will probably come away smelling like barbecue. ๐ This place is especially great if you're traveling in a big group, as you can order different kinds of meat and share everything together. The market is open from 7 AM to 7 PM daily.
3. Enjoy a Cup of Coffee at Cafรฉ Rรบstiko
- ๐ Location: Cafรฉ Rรบstiko [Map Link]
- ๐ Opening Hours: Mon-Sat, 8 AM-8 PM
If you're looking for a nice cafe to relax and enjoy a cup of coffee, I recommend Cafรฉ Rรบstiko. Located just a few blocks south of the Zรณcalo, this cozy cafรฉ has a lovely courtyard filled with plants, colorful artwork, and comfortable seating. They serve specialty coffee, including Oaxacan coffee, along with teas, frappes, and other drinks.
I especially liked the relaxed atmosphere here. The staff was very friendly and their coffee is absolutely delicious, but that's a given as Oaxaca is a major coffee-growing region in Mexico. The cafรฉ also serves pastries, desserts, and sandwiches, if you happen to be hungry.
Cafรฉ Rรบstiko is open Monday to Saturday, from 8 AM to 8 PM and it is located just outside the historical center, which is a great spot to stop by on your way to and out of the area.
4. Try Delicious Local Cuisine at Ocote cocina
- ๐ Location: Ocote Cocina [Map Link]
- ๐ Opening Hours: 11:30 AM - 10:30 PM
- ๐ฐ Price Range: Reasonable prices
If you're looking for a restaurant to try Oaxacan food, I really enjoyed Ocote Cocina. I absolutely loved their creative take on tacos, especially the tacos de rib eye, which were absolutely delicious and became one of my favorite meals in Oaxaca.
It's a casual dining spot with reasonable prices, but the food is presented with the kind of care and creativity you'd normally expect from a fine-dining restaurant, which I thought was really cool. When I visited, there were plenty of locals eating here, which is always a good sign in my book.
Ocote Cocina is open daily, from 11:30 AM to 10:30 PM Monday through Saturday, and from 5:30 PM to 10 PM on Sunday. I'd recommend coming around lunchtime or early evening if you want to avoid the busiest period.
5. Enjoy the Romantic Vibe at Oaxaca te amo
- ๐ Location: Oaxaca Te Amo [Map Link]
- ๐ Opening Hours: 5 PM - Midnight
- ๐ฐ Price Range: Pricey
If you're looking for a nice place to unwind in the evening, I highly recommend Oaxaca Te Amo, a lovely rooftop restaurant with a relaxed and romantic atmosphere. The rooftop has a great view of the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzmรกn and the streets below, which are especially pretty during the blue hour when the lights begin to illuminate the streets and the church.
The restaurant also has live music on some evenings, which makes it a perfect place to come and enjoy the night in Oaxaca. When I visited around sunset, it was still relatively quiet, making it a great time to grab a table, enjoy the view, and slowly watch the city light up as evening set in. It does get considerably busier later at night, though, so I'd recommend coming early if you want to snag a good table with a view.
I also tried my first mole here and it was great. I ordered mole negro and it was thick, and tasty with that wonderful combination of smoky, slightly bitter, savory, and subtly sweet flavors that kept changing with every bite. I highly recommend you try it!
Oaxaca Te Amo is open daily from 5 PM to midnight. And a special shout-out to Emma, my Mexican friend who recommended this place to me! She definitely knew what she was talking about because this ended up being one of my favorite spots for a relaxed evening in Oaxaca. ๐
6. Try Mocca at Cafeto Cacao
- ๐ Location: Cafeto Cacao [Map Link]
- ๐ Opening Hours: 6:30 AM - 8 PM (Weekdays), 7 AM to 8 PM (Saturdays), 7 AM to 12 PM (Sunday)
- ๐ฐ Price Range: Average
If you're looking for a good place to try coffee and chocolate, two of Oaxaca's famous local products, head to Cafeto Cacao. This little roadside cafรฉ specializes in coffee and chocolate, and what better way to try both than by ordering their mocha!
Rest assured, the coffee and chocolate served here are made with beans and ingredients sourced from the region. They are served in these awesome clay-sculpted cups called โLa Caritaโ. They are handmade from natural red clay known as barro rojo, which, in my opinion, gives the coffee even more character when you sip it.
The space isn't particularly large, but it feels open and spacious, and the staff are friendly. They also open quite early, from 6:30 AM to 8 PM on weekdays, 7 AM to 8 PM on Saturday, and 7 AM to 12 PM on Sunday. They also serve breakfast, making this a good place to be. if you're looking for an early morning meal before heading out to explore Oaxaca.
7. Relax at Once In Oaxaca, an Art & Specialty Coffee
- ๐ Location: Once In Oaxaca [Map Link]
- ๐ Opening Hours: 8 AM - 7 PM
- ๐ฐ Price Range: Average
Jalatlaco is easily my favorite district in Oaxaca, thanks to its vibrant art scene and colorful streets. Every other day, you'd often find me wandering around the neighborhood, discovering cool art galleries and cafรฉs. One place I really liked was Once In Oaxaca, a small cafรฉ, art, and craft shop with lovely outdoor seating beneath the shade of trees and a cozy little artisan and handicraft shop inside.
I was in the middle of exploring the art district one morning when I spotted this cafรฉ around the corner. The outdoor seating looked really chill, so I decided to stop by and grab a glass of cold brewโand it was delicious! I ended up sitting there for about an hour, just chilling and watching people come and go. It was such a vibe, and I'm all for it.
If you're visiting Jalatlaco, and you absolutely should, be sure to stop by Once In Oaxaca. The cafรฉ is open from 8 AM to 7 PM daily, with coffee and other healthy drinks ranging from around 45โ70 MXN.
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