If you are looking for a complete 2-month backpacking itinerary for the Balkans that will take you to all the 9 countries in the region in one go, you are in the right place.
Within this article, you will find all the information you need to help you plan the ultimate 2-month backpacking trip to the Balkans, taking you across the peninsula starting from Croatia, passing through Bosnia, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, North Macedonia, Bulgaria, Serbia, all the way to Romania, all by land without renting a car.
It is truly the ultimate backpacking itinerary for those who want to see the whole of the Balkans in about 60 days. There is just no itinerary quite like this out there! Without further ado, here is the ultimate 2-month backpacking itinerary for the Balkans. Let's first take a look at where we are going on the map below:
- 2 Months Backpacking Balkans Itinerary Map
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2 Months Backpacking Balkans Itinerary
- Zadar, Croatia
- Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia
- Split, Croatia
- Krka National Park, Croatia
- Hvar, Croatia
- Mostar, Bosnia
- Sarajevo, Bosnia
- Dubrovnik, Croatia
- Kotor, Montenegro
- Lovcen National Park, Cetinje, and River Crnojevića, Montenegro
- Durmitor National Park, Tara Canyon, and Ostrog Monastery, Montenegro
- Shkodra, Albania
- Theth, Albania
- Valbona, Albania
- Shkodra, Albania
- Tirana, Albania
- Berat, Albania
- Gjirokaster, Albania
- Himara, Albania
- Tirana, Albania
- Prizren, Kosovo
- Peja, Kosovo
- Pristina, Kosovo
- Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia
- Skopje, North Macedonia
- Sofia, Bulgaria
- Rila Monastery and/or Rila Lakes, Bulgaria
- Plovdiv, Bulgaria
- Belgrade, Serbia
- Novi Sad, Serbia
- Timisoara, Romania
- Sibiu, Romania
- Corvin Castle and Alba Iulia, Romania
- Sighisoara, Romania
- Brasov, Romania
- Peles Castle, Bran Castle, and Rasnov Citadel, Romania
- Bucharest, Romania
- When to Visit the Balkans?
- How to Get to the Balkans?
- How to Get Around the Balkans?
- Visa for the Balkans?
- How Much Money Do I Need for 2 months in the Balkans?
- Is it Safe in the Balkans?
- Which tourist SIM card is best for The Balkans?
- What to Pack for the Balkans?
- Further Reading for the Balkans
2 Months Backpacking Balkans Itinerary Map
2 Months Backpacking Balkans Itinerary
Day 1 - 2: Zadar, Croatia (3 nights)
Our 2-month Balkans itinerary begins in the beautiful Dalmatian coastline of Croatia, home to some of the most beautiful coastal towns in the Balkans, and there is no better place to start our journey than in Zadar, a beautiful coastal town, rich in history, culture, and natural beauty, we will be exploring in the next 2 days.
Like most old towns in Europe, some of the coolest tourist attractions you will find in Zadar are located inside the old town area surrounded by medieval walls and the only way you can enter the area is through the Land Gate, one of the most iconic landmarks and the first tourist attraction you will see here.
Right out of the gate, you will find the Five Wells Square, an iconic public square built in the 16th Century and is considered to be the oldest town square in the country.
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The square features the five iconic stone wells, which is where the square got its name from, all built in a single row as well as a cistern below it, designed by the Venetians as a water supply system for the city. Surrounding the square, you will find all kinds of beautiful medieval structures like the pentagonal Captain's tower that you can climb up to the top for a view over the Old Town for 2.5 EUR.
And of course, you have to visit one of the most famous landmarks in Zadar, the Church of St. Donatus, an impressive circular church constructed in the 9th Century and is considered to be the largest Pre-Romanesque building you will find in Croatia.
The church was built on top of the ancient Roman Forum site and you can still see the remaining structures of the ancient town square like fallen Roman columns, buildings' foundations, and ancient sculptures scattered across the large courtyard surrounding the church.
Attached to the church, you will also find a 12th Century bell tower, standing over 56 meters high where you can climb to the top for an incredible view over Zadar's Old Town.
As you make your way towards the northeastern side of Zadar's Old Town, you will stumble upon the Sea Organ, a large experimental musical instrument and an art installation mounted beneath a staircase that descends into the sea, with a system of pipes and whistles hidden beneath them.
As the waves move in and out, the air is forced through the pipes, creating one of the most mesmerizing melodies that are both haunting and beautiful at the same time. The sound is so random and unpredictable as it changes with the ebb and flow of the sea, and I have never experienced anything quite like it.
I highly recommend you visit the Sea Organ at sunset when the place is the liveliest and you will be able to witness the incredible tune while enjoying the beautiful sunset over the Adriatic Sea. It is probably one of the most unique tourist attractions you will find here.
Located right by the Sea Organ, you will also find another incredibly creative tourist attraction called the Greeting to the Sun, an awesome art installation designed by the same Croatian architecture that brought the awesome Sea Organ to Zadar.
Embedded on the floors of the waterfront area of Zadar, you will find a large circular platform that is covered in solar panels. The entire platform is lit up at night by the colorful LED lights embedded under it, creating an impressive light show straight out of the 80s disco era.
The way the art installation works is also incredibly genius. The solar panels capture the sun's energy during the day and use it to power the LED lights at night, creating a dazzling display that's both beautiful and environmentally friendly. If you wish to see the incredible light shows, be sure to drop by the Greeting to the Sun at sunset.
After spending the entire day exploring all the cool attractions in Zadar, it is time to find a nice quiet place to eat dinner before retreating for the night. If you are looking for a nice local place to eat some fresh seafood dishes, I highly recommend you check out Konoba Tovar.
This small little restaurant located in the heart of Zadar's Old Town is run by a local chef who meticulously cooks and serves all his dishes with love for his customers of only 5 - 6 tables. He doesn't serve more than that and if you want to try his food, you either have to be there early or queue up for the table, which can be as long as 30 minutes or more. It is an awesome way to end the day in Zadar and spend the rest of the night preparing for our next adventure to Plitvice Lakes National Park.
Day 3: Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia (Day Trip)
For the next day in Zadar, we are going to spend the entire day visiting the magnificent Plitvice Lakes National Park, one of my favorite national parks in the country and one that you should not miss while you are traveling in Croatia.
That national park is home to a series of 16 interconnected lakes, each of which has its own color which ranges from azure to green, gray, or blue, depending on the mineral content and sunlight. The interconnected lakes are separated by natural dams of travertine creating more than 90 cascading waterfalls throughout the park.
With so many waterfalls, Plitvice Lakes National Park offers us plenty of opportunities to hike around these stunning waterfalls, explore the untouched nature of Croatia, and experience the natural wonder up close and personal, which is definitely a much-welcomed change from all the artificial tourist attractions we see in Zagreb.
To get from Zadar to Plitvice, you can either go on an organized tour that will take you from Zadar to the national park and back in about 8 hours, which is a good amount of time to see all the highlights of the national park like Veliki Slap, Galovački buk, and Milanovac waterfall.
This option is great for those who are looking for an easy way to get to the national park and back without having to worry about the logistics. The tour should cost around 80 EUR per person and you can reserve your spot here.
Now, if you want to do it independently, you can catch the morning daily Flixbus that leaves at 8:30 AM from Zadar Bus Terminal and it will take you to Plitvice Lakes in about 2 hours. Once you are done, you can catch another Flixbus back to Zadar at either 3:15 PM or 5 PM. Be sure to reserve the seat beforehand as it gets booked up quite quickly during the summer.
Be sure to get off at Entrance #1 as we will be entering from this entrance to start the hike. Also, make sure you buy the bus ticket in advance especially if you are visiting the national park during the summer months.
From entrance #1, you can buy the ticket which will include access to the park as well as a single boat ride and a bus ride which we will be relying on as we move around the park.
Once you enter the park, you will be met with an incredible view of Plitvice waterfalls from above. You can spend some time exploring the surrounding areas as well as get down to the lake and visit the famous Veliki Slap before making your way to the pier where we will be using our boat ride ticket to get to another part of the park.
Once you get off the boat, you will be at the another side of the park where you can continue and hike around to visit the lakes in the upper area of the park. The hiking path runs around each lake in a loop and eventually, you will arrive at Bistro Labudovac, the resting stop on the upper part of Plitvice.
At this resting stop, there is a small bus stop where you can utilize the shuttle bus to take you to Entrance #2 where you can drop off and explore this part of the park (there's not much to see at Entrance #2 in my opinion) or you can continue sitting on the bus all the way back to Entrance #1 where you entered the park from.
I prefer the view at Entrance #1 more so I decided to catch the park shuttle straight to Entrance #1 to take photos and relax at the resting area, before catching the bus back to Zadar from this bus stop. There is a bus operated by Flixbus at 3:15 PM for 14 EUR which is the earliest bus you can get to go back to Zadar. With this itinerary, you have around 5 hours at the park which is more than enough to see everything.
You can stay longer at the park if you wish as the last bus to Zagreb is at around 5 PM but from my experience, 5 hours of hiking is plenty of time for Plitvice Lakes. If you are looking to see some of the most beautiful waterfalls in the country, you can't go wrong with Plitvice Lakes National Park.
Getting from Zadar to Split
To get from Zadar to Split, you can catch one of the many buses that run from 7 AM to 8:30 PM every day from the Zadar bus terminal. The bus will take about 3 hours and cost around 15 EUR per person. You can book the bus from here.
Day 4 - 5: Split, Croatia (4 nights)
Next up, we visit Split, one of the most popular coastal towns in Croatia that attract travelers from all corners of the world to see its beautiful architecture some of which dated all the way back to more than 1,700 years. With so much to do here, we will be spending our first full day here exploring every corner of this wonderful coastal city.
And the first place you should check out after you have arrived and settled in Split is Diocletian's Palace, one of the most iconic landmarks in the city and a great example of how steeped in history Split truly is.
Due to the palace's central location, no matter in which direction you walk, you will eventually end up in Diocletian Palace's courtyard as the streets merge into the square. When you arrive at the courtyard, you will know right away that you are at Diocletian's Palace as you find yourself surrounded by the epic archways, full of stunning Roman columns on both sides.
One of the most prominent buildings in Diocletian's Palace is Saint Domnius Cathedral and its imposing bell tower where you can make your way up to admire the view of Split and its coastal area from above.
From the observation deck, you will have an incredible 360° panoramic view of the entire cityscape of Split as well as its beautiful coastline and all the mountains and hills that surround it. It is quite a sight to behold and I highly recommend you make it all the way to the top of Saint Domnius Cathedral while you are in Split.
Another ancient ruin you should check out while you are exploring Diocletian's Palace is Jupiter's Temple, a small ancient Roman temple that should allow you access for free as the temple is included in the Purple ticket you bought for Saint Domnius Cathedral.
Other notable tourist attractions you should check out in Split are Diocletian's Cellars, a series of ancient underground chambers located within Diocletian's Palace, Vestibule, a beautiful dome-shaped rotunda where you can find local performers singing their heart's out, putting the acoustics of the place to the text, and Riva, a beautiful waterfront area full of restaurants and cafes you can indulge yourself in.
If you are looking for something active to do in Split that will also reward you with an incredible view, I highly recommend you go on a hike to the Vrh Telegrin lookout point located at the top of Marjan Hill, a prominent hill on the western side of Split.
It should take about 30 minutes to hike from Split's Old Town to Vrh Telegrin lookout point and along the way, you will find all sorts of cool attractions that will keep you busy the entire time like this viewpoint, a small St. Nicholas Church, a natural history museum and zoo, and Marjan observatory.
After you are done, you can spend the rest of the day hanging out at the People's Square or find a nice seafood restaurant to enjoy like Fife, a local restaurant that serves delicious local cuisine ranging from fresh seafood like fried squid and grilled sea bass with baked potatoes, one of my favorite dishes from here, to regular street food style dishes like Cevapi and more.
Retreat for the night and get a good rest as we will be spending the next 2 days in Split going on a few day trips to tourist attractions located not too far from the city like Krka National Park, with a bit of hiking to do, as well as the beautiful island town of Hvar you can relax in.
Getting from Split to Krka National Park
To get from Split to Krka National Park, the best way is to go on an organized tour which will allow you to visit Krka National Park without having to worry about the logistics of it all and you will be able to dive even deeper into the national park and visit further away places that you might not have been able to do it independently.
Places like Visovac Island and Roški Waterfall are not easy to see, especially for day trippers that travel independently as it requires at least 2 - 4 hours on a boat excursion to travel there and back. With the guided tour, you will be able to get there and back as well as provide time to hike around and explore the main area of Skradinski Buk.
If you are planning to visit Krka National Park from Split, there is no better way to do it than with an organized tour. You can browse through some of the great deals on day trips and tours from here.
Day 6: Krka National Park, Croatia (Day Trip)
For the second day in Split, we are going to go on a day trip and explore Krka National Park, a beautiful natural wonder, home to a series of stunning waterfalls, crystal clear lakes, and lush greenery where you can spend a day hiking around in.
At Krka National Park, you will have the opportunity to do some hiking around its extensive network of wooden boardwalks and walking trails that will take you through some of the prettiest waterfalls you will see in Croatia.
The most famous waterfall in the Krka National Park that you should definitely visit is Skradinski Buk, a spectacular cascade that drops 45 meters into a series of turquoise pools below. It is one of the first big waterfalls you will see in the national park and you can hike around or go uphill to have an even better view of the national park from above.
There are also other notable attractions deep inside the park that you can visit with a boat tour like Roški slap, another dramatic, multi-tiered cascade with a cave, a wooden walkway, and a restaurant you can check out, Visovac Monastery, a picturesque Franciscan monastery located on an island in the middle of the lake, and so much more.
You can easily spend an entire day just exploring all the attractions inside Krka National Park so be sure to spare enough time to do all the hikes and boat tours you wish to do. Even then, do not expect to be able to do them all in a day as there are way too many things to see inside the national park.
The whole trip should take you the entire day so if you have a day to spare in Split, be sure to make it to Krka National Park! The national park is open from 8 AM to 6 PM every day and the entrance ticket is around 30 - 40 EUR per person depending on the season.
Getting from Split to Hvar
To travel to Hvar independently, you are going to have to buy a boat ticket the day before and catch the boat from Split Pier here. There, you will find the TP Line ticket booth where the boat will depart from. You can buy the boat ticket here.
Be sure to get the 9:15 AM one so that you will arrive at 10:30 AM and have enough time to explore the island before heading back to Split on the 5 PM ferry. The ferry should cost around 20 EUR per trip so 40 EUR in total making it a great budget way to explore Hvar.
You can visit Hvar as part of an organized tour which will take you to other tourist attractions in the area like the Blue Cave or you can travel independently as I did.
Day 7: Hvar, Croatia (Day Trip)
And on our last day in Split, we are going to hop on a ferry and visit Hvar, a beautiful charming seaside town located on an island with the same name, around an hour's ferry ride away from Split.
Hvar is known for its small charming old town and beautiful coastline and there is no better way to appreciate it than to climb up to the top of Fortica Fortress and admire the view of the city, the Adriatic Sea, and the surrounding islands from up there.
Fortica Fortress or Spanish Fortress is a historic fortress built by the Venetians in the 16th Century as a way to fortify and defend the island from intruders. The fortress is situated on top of a hill behind Hvar's old town which offers a great vantage point over the entire area.
To get up there, you are going to have to hike up the hill which is not particularly hard as you stroll along the cobblestone street up through the staircase of the old town onto the foothill before it zigzags its way up to the fortress which you should be able to complete in under 20 minutes.
The views up there are pretty amazing and it was definitely worth every sweat you shed along the trail. You can spend a few hours exploring the rampart, relaxing, and enjoying the view from the park benches in the fortress, or stroll around the museum inside.
Once you are done with the fortress, you can spend the rest of the day exploring the beautiful charming old town and check out places like St. Stephen's Cathedral, and Franciscan Monastery, or spend the day and walk around its coastline or relax at Plaža Lučica beach.
Hvar is an awesome place to visit with a lot to offer from hiking to relaxing at the beach, so if you have a day to spare be sure to go on a day trip and visit Hvar.
Getting from Split to Mostar
To get from Split to Mostar, you can catch the bus at 7:30 AM leaving from Split Bus Terminal to go to Mostar. The journey should take about 5 hours and cost around 20 EUR per person. You can book the bus here.
The Croatia-Bosnia border crossing is quite easy with the bus stopping at the Croatian immigration where you have to get out and get your exit stamp on your passport, continue driving to the Bosnian border, get checked by the officer without having to stamp in, and you are off to Mostar.
Day 8 - 9: Mostar, Bosnia (1 night)
And we have arrived in Bosnia and Herzegovina, starting in Mostar, a city in southern Bosnia and Herzegovina, straddling the Neretva River, known for its iconic Stari Most Medieval Bridge, as well as all the tourist attractions in the surrounding areas.
Since we are spending only one night here, we are going to hit the ground running and visit the crowned jewel of Mostar, the Stari Most Bridge, an old Ottoman-era historical bridge made out of stone and a weirdly satisfying arch shape spanning over the Neretva River right in the heart of Mostar's Old Town.
The bridge is notably famous for its distinctive Ottoman-style architecture, which is pretty common in this part of Europe as the Ottomans controlled much of this territory up until the 19th Century. The bridge was built in the 16th Century to connect two sides of the city together.
For over 400 years, the bridge stood as an iconic symbol of the city's cultural heritage, until it was destroyed during the Bosnian War in 1993. However, in 2004, the bridge was rebuilt using original materials and traditional methods, and it has since been recognized as a symbol of reconciliation and hope for the people of Bosnia as well as for tourists like us to admire its beauty.
If you happen to be in Mostar in July, you will also be able to witness the annual Stari Most traditional diving competition where the young men of Mostar leap from the bridge and dive off into the Neretva, an incredibly daring feat that will give you vertigo just thinking about it.
After you are done at Stari Most Bridge, you can spend some time and explore the Old Bazaar located on both ends of the bridge where you will find plenty of shops and restaurants you can indulge yourself in.
The atmosphere of the Old Bazaar is quite lively, especially during the day, as the street is ridden with people, both locals and tourists, walking around, hanging out with one another, and enjoying a nice cup of coffee while being surrounded by all the beautiful architectures of Mostar.
For the best viewpoint in Mostar, I have to give it to Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, one of the most prominent mosques in the city, and its minaret that you can climb for an incredible view of Mostar from above.
The mosque features a stunning dome and minaret, intricate calligraphy, and beautiful stained-glass windows, that you can check out inside. With its location, being situated on the banks of the Radobolja River, you will have an incredible unobstructed view of Stari Most bridge as well as the cityscape of Mostar from above if you don't mind climbing the 89 extremely narrow stairs.
To get inside, you are going to have to pay the entrance fee of around 7 EUR per person at the entrance and you will have access to the interior of the mosque as well as the minaret. The view is definitely worth the price though as you won't be able to get a better view of the Stari Most Bridge from above than from here.
As you know, Bosnia has been through a bloody war in the 90s, and here in Mostar, you can witness the terrible impact of those tumultuous years from all the remnants of the brutal war that scattered across the city.
Everywhere you look outside of the old town area, you will find many bullet-ridden buildings that are left in ruins but still standing with a large concentration of them around this intersection.
One of the most prominent remnants of war in Mostar that you should check out is the abandoned Tito Tower or as it is also hauntingly referred to as the Sniper Tower, a stark reminder of the violence and devastation that occurred during the conflict.
This striking building was originally built as a bank in the 1970s but was later abandoned during the Bosnian War. During the war, the tower was used as a strategic vantage point by snipers who used it to target civilians and soldiers in the surrounding area, hence the name. You can get inside and climb the building for an incredible view of the city.
Don't go and look at these buildings for enjoyment but instead, look at them so that we can prevent them from happening again in the future. If you are interested in the history of Bosnia, be sure to spend some time and track down these bullet-ridden buildings in Mostar.
After an entire day of exploration, it is time to retreat for the night and prepare yourself for a trip to the capital city of Bosnia, Sarajevo where we will be spending a few days exploring next.
Getting from Mostar to Sarajevo
To get from Mostar to Sarajevo, you can catch the bus from Mostar Bus Station between 6 AM and 8 PM. The buses leave every 2 hours daily, taking about 2 hours, and cost around 13 EUR before you arrive in Sarajevo. You can look up the schedule and book the bus online here.
Once you arrive at Sarajevo Bus Terminal, you are going to have to walk to the main road (the tram in front of the train station is not operational) and catch either tram #1, #2, #3, or #5 to get to Sarajevo Old Town. You can buy the bus ticket from the kiosk in front of the train station for about 1.6 BAM (1 EUR).
Day 10 - 12: Sarajevo, Bosnia (3 nights)
And now we have arrived in Sarajevo, the capital city of Bosnia of around 350,000 people, where we will be spending 2 full days exploring some of the most iconic and historically significant landmarks, natural wonders, and awesome museums in the city.
On your first day, we are going to begin exploring the city starting from Baščaršija Bazaar, a vibrant and bustling marketplace located in the heart of the historic city center, known for its labyrinthine streets and alleys lined with shops and stalls selling a wide range of goods, including traditional handicrafts, jewelry, spices, and more.
Dating back to the Ottoman era in the 15th century, the bazaar was originally built as the commercial center of Sarajevo, with merchants from all over the region coming to sell their wares. During the 19th and early 20th centuries, the bazaar underwent significant changes as Sarajevo became part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and many of the original Ottoman buildings were replaced with more modern structures.
Because of its history, the phrase "East meets West" is often used to describe Sarajevo because of its unique blend of cultures, history, and architecture, and there is no place more apparent than at Baščaršija bazaar.
In fact, there is even a line drawn on the street of Bascarija Bazaar that signifies that you are entering the western or eastern part of town and you will see your surroundings shifted between exotic Ottoman-style buildings
As you explore the bazaar, you will come across Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, and beautiful mosque considered to be the largest one in the country and one of the largest in the region.
Once you are done exploring the bazaar. It is time to dive deep into the tragic history of Sarajevo and Bosnia and its conflicts and wars that had fallen upon the Bosnian people in much of the 90s, during the tumultuous time of Yugoslavia's dissolution.
It is a painful memory that is still quite vivid in the mind of the people here and in order to see where the people are coming from, one of the best things we should do as a visitor to their country is to learn about their history and understand how much it took them to be where they are now.
And there are a ton of awesome museums you can check out in Sarajevo ranging from a museum dedicated to telling the tragic stories of the Bosnian people living during the war at War Childhood Museum to a more inspiring museum that collects and archives the archeological history of Bosnia at the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
There is also a war photography museum called Gallery 11/07/95 that you should also check out while you are in Sarajevo. The gallery is dedicated to the victims of the Srebrenica genocide, which took place in July 1995 during the Bosnian War, and features powerful exhibits that tell the story of the genocide and its impact on the people of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
The Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide is also another great museum to visit if you want to learn more about the tragic history of the city during the Bosnian War featuring artifacts, photographs, and personal accounts from survivors and witnesses of the war. The goal of the museum is to educate visitors about the atrocities that occurred during the war and to honor the memory of the victims.
One of the most historically significant places you should visit in Sarajevo is Latin Bridge, a 16th-century Ottoman-style stone bridge, that doesn't look particularly special, but it is here that many historians considered to be the starting point of one of the most tragic events in modern history that shook the world to its core. This is where World War I begins.
This exact location at Latin Bridge is the site of the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria, which occurred on June 28, 1914, an event that sparked World War I and changed the course of world history forever.
In the evening, I recommend you go and watch the sunset at Yellow Bastion, a historic fortification located along the hillside of Sarajevo with an incredible vantage point over the city.
At Yellow Bastion, you can find a local cafe at the top offering tea and coffee while enjoying the incredible sweeping panoramic views of the city and its hilly surroundings below.
The bastion is located on the eastern side of town and to get there, you will have to walk past Kovači Cemetery, a 19th Century historic cemetery with more than 400 tombs with impressive carvings that stretches out across the hill. Be sure to stop by there as you make your way up to the bastion.
After sunset, you can make your way back to Sarajevo and hang out around Sebilj, a wooden fountain located right in the heart of the bazaar surrounded by all kinds of restaurants you can enjoy before retreating for the night.
On our second day in Sarajevo, we are going to escape the bustling markets and crowded streets and explore the lush green forest and be among beautiful nature at the top of Trebević, a mountain peak located right by the city towering over its skyline.
The mountain is one of the most popular places for locals to come and enjoy a nice quiet nature walk along one of its many hiking trails that offer an incredible view over the city and its surroundings.
There are a number of tourist attractions and walking trails you can tackle up here. The notable attractions you should check out while here is the scenic viewpoint where you will be able to see Sarajevo from above, Draguljac, a small old ruin with a nice view, and Sarajevo Abandoned Bobsled Track, one of my favorite places of all.
While at the top of Trebević Mountain, be sure to spend some time and walk along the Abandoned Bobsled Track, which was built as a symbol of pride for the city at the time when the Winter Olympics was held in the city in 1984.
At first, it may look scary but Sarajevo is incredibly safe for tourists and you will find many locals walking around the bobsled track, especially on the weekends so you should have no trouble exploring the remnant of the Winter Olympics of 1984.
Expect to spend around an hour walking around the bobsled track and seeing all the beautiful graffitis and street art while being surrounded by the beautiful solitude of the forest around the area.
To get to the top of Trebević Mountain, you will have to get to the gondola station in Sarajevo, and from there, you can get on one of the gondolas that will take you straight to the top in about 20 minutes, costing around 10 EUR for a roundtrip ticket.
The facilities are in great condition and are kept extremely clean, and worth every penny. You can see pretty nice views from the gondola as you make your way up to the top of Trebević Mountain. Riding the gondola is a great thing to do in and of itself and expect to spend around half a day at the top before you make your way down to Sarajevo.
After half a day hiking around the mountain, you can spend the rest of your second day relaxing and enjoying the old town, sipping the famous Bosnian coffee at one of my all-time favorite cafes in town, Teahouse Džirlo, a teahouse specialized in local tea with a wide selection of tastes and aromas but they also serve a mean and delicious Bosnian coffee you can try.
One of the best parts about Teahouse Džirlo is its vibe and settings with a beautifully decorated interior, a shelf filled with teapots creating competing aromas, and a comfortable seating area, looking over the street.
And that is it for the second day of our itinerary. You can spend the rest of the night hanging out at Baščaršija Bazaar before you retreat for the night and prepare to go back to Croatia and visit Dubrovnik.
Getting from Sarajevo to Dubrovnik
To get from Sarajevo to Dubrovnik, there are around 2 buses that leave from the Sarajevo Bus Terminal which is a tram ride away from the old town, at 7:15 AM and 10 AM every day. You can catch trams #1,#2, #3, and #5 from the Baščaršija bus stop to get to the bus terminal. Be sure to get the tram ticket from one of the small shop kiosks near Baščaršija bus stop. The tram ticket should cost about 1.6 BAM (1 EUR).
The bus journey should take about 5 - 6 hours and cost around 35 EUR. You can look up the schedule and book the bus online here.
The Bosnia-Croatia border crossing is also pretty straightforward. There is no immigration on the Bosnian side so you just have to get out of the bus on the Croatian side, get a stamp into Croatia, and off you go to Croatia again.
Day 13 - 14: Dubrovnik, Croatia (2 nights)
We are back in Croatia, this time we are exploring the famous walled city of Dubrovnik. Out of all the places we have visited, I think Dubrovnik is to most picturesque of all. It is also the most crowded, thanks to the HBO hit series, Game of Thrones, which put the beautiful coastal town onto everyone's radar due to its breathtaking medieval architecture and imposing fortress walls that lend themselves very well to the show's medieval fantasy setting.
Since we will have one full day here, we are going to spend the entire day exploring Dubrovnik's Old Town starting by walking the entire circuit of Dubrovnik's City Walls, a historic fortification, one of the most well-preserved medieval structures of its kind, that surrounds the entire old town of Dubrovnik.
Since it is almost 2 km long, expect to spend at least 2 hours walking the entire length of the city walls. That said, there are so many things you can do along the walls that you won't even notice how long it took you to walk and you will be right back at the entrance in no time.
Some of the notable stops along the walls you should check out are Fort Puncjela, a small fort providing an incredible view of Lovrijenac and its coastline which we will be visiting later, Fort St. Peter, a great stop to take in the view of the Adriatic Sea, and Tvrđava Minčeta, a fortress with a tower you can climb for an even better view of Dubrovnik from the top.
The walls can get pretty crowded and in order to avoid them during your visit, I highly recommend you start the city walls walk as early as possible to avoid being stuck behind large tour groups. You can avoid even more tourists and visit Dubrovnik in early October and you should have to whole place to yourself as I did.
After you are done with the wall, you can then proceed to Stradun, a beautiful limestone-paved pedestrian street that runs through the heart of the city, stretching from Pile Gate to Ploče Gate, with many side streets splitting out all across the town making for a great beginning point to start exploring Dubrovnik's old town.
The street is also known for its stunning architecture, lined with beautiful buildings and palaces that are steeped in history like Orlando's Column, a stone pillar with a statue of the legendary knight Orlando, which symbolizes the city's freedom and independence.
You will also find other notable attractions along Stradun such as St. Blaise's Church, a beautiful Baroque-style 18th-century church that is often used for weddings, Large Onofrio's Fountain, a 15th-century circular springwater fountain decorated with ornate, carved-stone masks, a great meeting point in the old town, and so much more.
Located right on the street of Stradun, you will also find the Franciscan Church and Monastery, one of the oldest functioning Franciscan monasteries in the world, dating back to the 14th century.
You will also find one of the oldest pharmacies in the adjacent building that houses an incredible collection of manuscripts, old prints, and ancient pharmacy tools which makes for a great place to visit while you explore Stradun.
Another awesome fortress you should visit in Dubrovnik is Lovrijenac, the fortress you saw from the city walls that are located on a rocky outcrop outside the western walls of Dubrovnik's Old Town.
The fortress provides a great view over the Adriatic Sea as well as Dubrovnik's Old Town and its magnificent fortification which will allow you to really appreciate the true scale of Dubrovnik's city walls from afar. You can access the fortress for free with the Dubrovnik Walls ticket so be sure to drop by there while you are here.
If you are looking for the sunset best spots in Dubrovnik, there is no better place to be than at the top of Mount Srđ, a towering mountain peak that overlooks the entire area, providing a perfect vantage point to witness the golden hour over the picturesque city, the Adriatic Sea, and the surrounding islands.
Up at the top, you will find an old fortress that was constructed to serve as a strategic point for defense during Dubrovnik's tumultuous past, a restaurant where you can dine as you watch the sun go down, and an observation deck at the Cross stone monument where you can sit and enjoy the magic hour.
Since the mountain is around 412 meters (1,352 feet) above sea level, you have a few options to get to the observational deck. The most convenient way is to ride the cable car from Dubrovnik Cable Car Station and it will take you all the way to the top in just 4 minutes.
After sunset, be sure to spend some time exploring the beautiful streets of Dubrovnik before calling it a day. The city is especially beautiful at night as the cobblestones on the streets glitter with reflections created by the artificial lights that dimly illuminate the streets.
Getting from Dubrovnik to Kotor
To get from Dubrovnik to Kotor, you can catch the bus from Dubrovnik Bus Terminal at either 10 AM, 3 PM, or 5:30 PM. The bus leaves daily and it should take about 2 hours and cost 25 EUR for the trip. You can book the bus ticket online here.
The Croatia-Montenegro border crossing is pretty straightforward. The bus driver will collect all the passports, get them stamped, and return them to you without you having to get out of the bus which is rather convenient.
Day 15 - 16: Kotor, Montenegro (4 nights)
For Montenegro, we are going to do things a little differently. We are going to use Kotor, a beautiful old coastal town nestled in between the towering mountains of Montenegro, as our base and we are going to spend the next few days visiting all the highlights of Montenegro without moving location.
One of the first things I highly recommend you do the moment you arrive in Kotor is to go and hike to the top of Kotor Fortress, a magnificent structure perched high above the old town of Kotor, and watch the sunset from there.
Due to its strategic location, standing over approximately 260 meters (853 feet) above Kotor Town the fortress offers visitors stunning panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and the Bay of Kotor which makes for an incredible vantage point to experience the sunset.
To reach the fortress, you must first climb a steep and winding stone path, which can be challenging at times, especially in the heat, which is why I would recommend you tackle the hike an hour before sunset.
That said, it is well worth the effort as the view is the best in town, and along the way, you will be able to admire the beauty of old medieval gates, towers, and even a small monastery, offering us a glimpse into the fortress's prosperous past.
There are 2 ways you can hike to Kotor Fortress, one is via the usual tourist trail which begins right in the old town. This is the main trail that people often take. It is shorter but you have to pay the entrance fee of around 8 EUR.
If you want to dodge the expensive entrance fee, you can start your hike from outside of town instead. The trailhead is located right by the hydro plant and you can get all the way to the top without having to pay anything.
It should take about 30 to 40 minutes to hike to the fortress along a rather steep trail that goes straight up all the way to the top but once you are there, you will be rewarded with breathtaking views of the town with the Bay of Kotor in its entirety, right before you.
After sunset, you can make your way down and eat some delicious local cuisine at BBQ Tanjga, a local bbq restaurant serving all kinds of dishes ranging from a cheap and delicious cevapi to a full-blown meat platter with all kinds of deliciously cooked meat, grilled vegetables, and more.
The place is extremely popular among both locals and tourists and they are often long queues for this place but since we will be here late in the night, after spending the evening watching the sunset, you should not have to wait too long for dinner before you retreat for the night and prepare yourself for a full day exploration of Kotor the next day.
After spending the first night in Kotor, we are going to start exploring its charming old town and there is no better place to begin than at St. Tryphon's Cathedral, a stunning Romanesque church, one of the town's most significant landmarks located right at the heart of Kotor's Old Town.
This iconic cathedral features a beautiful stone facade with 2 striking bell towers flanked on both sides of its entrance while the structure stands right in the middle of a spacious old town square, surrounded by beautiful buildings and the mountainous landscapes surrounding it.
Another beautiful square you should check out while you are exploring Kotor is Square of the Arms, a beautiful square located right at the western entrance of Kotor's Old Town and it is home to many beautiful pieces of architecture as well as restaurants and cafes you can enjoy.
Right at the center of it all, you will also find Kotor's Clock Tower, an iconic landmark of the city. This impressive tower was built by the Venetians back in the 17th century and it features a distinctive octagonal shape, topped by a domed roof, and a small turret.
As you walk north of Square of the Arms, you will also stumble upon Kotor Bazaar, a small market full of local shops selling all kinds of items from souvenirs to handicrafts you can stroll around in and shop for some souvenirs to buy for your loved ones back home.
There are also many notable churches you should check out while you are in Kotor like Saint Nicholas Church, a well-preserved Orthodox church that perfectly blends Baroque, Renaissance, and Gothic architectural styles, the Church of Sveti Luka, a small but pretty medieval Orthodox church, and the Church of St. Mary Collegiate and its peaceful courtyard full of cats.
Last but not least, be sure to spend some time and go for a stroll along Kotor's medieval walls and relax by one of the many park benches located atop the wall, while admiring the beautiful views of the Bay of Kotor as well as the surrounding mountains.
The views are amazing throughout the entire length of the walls and it is a great way to avoid the huge crowds that are often concentrated at the Sea Gate and the Square of Arms while enjoying the views Kotor is known for in solitude.
After spending the entire day exploring Kotor's Old Town, you can either retreat for the night and prepare for our visit full-blown day trips we will be making in the next 2 days or you can go out and enjoy a little drink or 2 (or 3) at one of the many bars in Kotor.
I highly recommend Ombra Caffe & Louge Bar if you are looking for a nice hidden place, tucked away in the narrow streets of Kotor, with plenty of tables outside where you can enjoy a nice glass of wine while being surrounded by the beautiful architecture of Kotor.
Getting from Kotor to Lovcen National Park, Cetinje, and River Crnojevića
To get from Kotor to Lovcen National Park, Cetinje, and River Crnojevića in one day, you are going to have to rely on an organized day trip. The tour will take you to these remote places on a 10-hour day trip and they will drop you off at Kotor at the end. Be sure to book the trip in advance as it gets booked out very fast.
Day 17: Lovcen National Park, Cetinje, and River Crnojevića, Montenegro (Day Trip)
On our second day in Montenegro, we are going to go on a day trip and visit Lovcen National Park and its surrounding charming towns like Cetinje, the old capital city, and River Crnojevića, where you will be able to explore the river by boat, and more.
One of the first stops you will make with the tour is the famous Kotor Serpentine, a narrow mountain road that snakes its way up the Lovcen mountain behind Kotor. The road is so popular it was considered one of the best roads to drive on by Top Gear.
You will be able to see some of the most stunning viewpoints that overlook the Bay of Kotor along the way as you make your way up to the top of Lovcen where you will be visiting Njegos Mausoleum, one of the most important landmarks in the country.
The mausoleum is located at an altitude of 1,657 meters, and you must climb 461 steps to reach the entrance. Right at the top, you will be rewarded with an expansive view of almost the entirety of Montenegro.
You can see the surrounding countryside, the Bay of Kotor, and on a clear day, Albania, Croatia, and beyond. The view is pretty incredible up here and it is one of my favorite activities out of all.
After Lovcen National Park, you will then be taken to Cetinje, the old capital city of Montenegro and you will be guided around town as you visit some of the most notable attractions there like the beautiful Cetinje Monastery, Billiard Palace, and its lovely town square.
After exploring Cetinje, you will be then taken to River Crnojevića where you will be able to cruise along the beautiful river and enjoy a nice sunset surrounded by nature before the tour will take you back to Kotor.
It is a full-day trip and you should be back in town by 7 - 8 PM. With this tour, you will have seen most of the highlights of the southern part of Montenegro. For this trip, I highly recommend you book the tour as soon as you can as they have limited seats and they often get booked out fast. Best of Montenegro tour. Next up, we are going to explore the northern part of Montenegro on another full-blown 13 hours day trip so rest up and prepare yourself for another long epic day!
Getting from Kotor to Durmitor National Park, Tara Canyon, and Ostrog Monastery
To get from Kotor to Durmitor National Park, Tara Canyon, and Ostrog Monastery in one day, you are going to have to rely on an organized day trip. The tour will take you to these remote places on a 12-hour day trip and they will drop you off at Kotor at the end. Again, be sure to book the trip in advance as it gets booked out very fast.
Day 18: Durmitor National Park, Tara Canyon, and Ostrog Monastery, Montenegro (Day Trip)
On our third day in Montenegro, we are going to go above and beyond and travel to the northern part of the country with another organized day trip to visit some of the most beautiful natural wonders out there.
The tour will take you to the harder-to-reach places in the Northern part of Montenegro like Đurđevića Tara Bridge, a bridge that crosses the Tara Canyon, the deepest canyon in Europe, with the deepest point at around 1300 meters high.
With the tour, you will have around an hour or 2 to explore the area, zipline across the Tara Canyon, and immerse yourself in the beautiful sceneries before you move on to the highlight of the trip, the Durmitor National Park, home to snow-capped peaks, hiking trails, and beautiful untouched lakes, gorges, and forests.
After you arrive in Durmitor National Park, you will have time to enjoy a nice stroll around Crno Jezero (Black Lake), a picturesque glacial lake offering plenty of hiking opportunities, swimming, and kayaking while being surrounded by lush green forests and the beautiful mountain peaks of Northern Montenegro.
It is a beautiful place to visit and you will have around an hour or 2 to hike around, take photos, and absorb the sceneries before you move on and visit one of the most sacred monasteries in the Balkans, Ostrog Monastery.
This 17th Century monastery, built right inside a cliff of a mountain is so sacred that you will find pilgrims from across the region, trekking all the way up to the top to camp at the monastery. Seeing the monastery and all the people camping outside was surreal!
It is one of the most unique places you can visit in Montenegro and it would be difficult for you to travel to the monastery independently as it is located deep inside the mountain and it takes forever to get there.
This is one of the longest tours you can take in Montenegro, taking around 13 hours, and covering large distances and it would not have been possible to do so without this organized tour. Be sure to book it early as they have limited daily capacity and they get booked out fast.
With this tour together with the tour you did the day before, you have essentially traveled to almost all the highlights of the entire country in just 2 days which is quite fast, to be honest, but if you only have 4 days here and you want to get the best out of your time, this is the best way to do it. It's tiring but you are going to love every moment of it.
Plus, when you go on these tours, you will also be meeting some really cool people along the way as I did when I did these tours back to back and many of them were doing the same. We hung out for 2 days straight and even more after the trips were done. It was a breath of fresh air for me after traveling solo for so long.
Getting from Kotor to Shkodra, Albania
To get from Kotor to Shkodra, you are going to have to catch the 8 AM bus from Kotor Bus Station and it should take about 4 hours and cost around 18 EUR before you arrive in Shkodra, Albania. You can book the bus ticket online here.
Day 19 - 20: Shkodra, Albania (1 night)
After spending some time exploring the mountains in Montenegro, it is time for us to do some hiking in the beautiful Albanian Alps! The city you will have to pass through to get to the Albanian Alps is Shkodra, one of the oldest cities in the Balkans.
There are quite a few cool things you can do in Shkodra but mostly, we will use it as a place of preparation before we embark on the epic hikes in the Albanian Alps.
The main hike we will be doing is the popular Theth-Valbona hike, a 7-hour hike that will take you from Theth to Valbona (or vice versa) through some of the most beautiful scenery you will see in Albania. We will also be spending some time doing side trips in Theth so, in total, we will be spending 3 nights in the mountains.
For supplies, you can get snacks and light meals to prepare for lunch at SPAR Supermarket located not too far from G'juhadol Street. For all the other meals, you can rely on the guesthouses in Theth and Valbona. For more information on things to prepare for the hike, check out our packing list for the Theth-Valbona hike here.
There is no ATM up there so be sure to carry enough cash with you for the entire time you will be in the mountains.
One of the first things you will have to pay is the transportation from Shkodra to Theth the next morning. Your hostel/hotel can organize this trip for you which is ideal as they can tell the driver to pick you up at your accommodation.
You will also need transportation back from Valbona to Shkodra, which is a little more complex since it involves taking 2 fourgons and a ferry, but fortunately, you can organize all this in advance with your hostel/hotel as well in Shkodra.
If you have prepared everything you need for the hikes and still have some time left, you can go and explore Shkodra and see what the city has to offer.
Be sure to check out G'juhadol Main Street, Kole Idromeno Shopping Street, and all the surrounding structures like Ebu Bekr Mosque and Orthodox Cathedral of the Nativity before you end your day.
Getting from Shkodra to Theth
For this journey, you will have to organize the trip with your accommodation the day before, and a fourgon (minivan) should come and pick you up at 7:20 AM the next day to take you to Theth.
The journey from Shkodra to Theth will take 3 hours with a stop at a viewpoint halfway where you can get breakfast before it continues to Theth. The cost for the transfer is 1200 LEK and you will pay directly to the driver when you arrive.
Theth has 2 areas, the town center, and Fushe Thethi and depending on where your accommodation is, you can tell your driver to drop you off there so you do not have to walk.
If you are staying at Shpella Guesthouse as I recommended, tell the driver the name and they will drop you off in front of the guesthouse for you.
Day 21: Theth, Albania (1 night)
From Shkodra, you should arrive in Theth by noon which should give you ample time to do some hiking before the sunset. One of the hikes I would recommend you do is a trail that goes to Denelle.
This 5-hour hike will take you to Denelle, a giant plain surrounded by mountains, and along the way, you will be able to see the valleys surrounding Theth in its full glory from above.
At the end of Denelle Trail, you will arrive in a large field where you will meet a welcoming husband, wife, and their 3 daughters living in a tent tending their livestock.
The trail begins from Fushe Thethi just east of Shpella Guesthouse and continues east towards a rocky river bed where you will have to cross to the other side.
From the other side of the river bed, the trail is a 3-hour straight-up hike through a thick forest where you will able to occasionally take a break and admire the view of Theth and all the surrounding valleys from above.
The hike difficulty is moderate to hard. You will be climbing straight up for 3 hours before you arrive in Denelle. It will take another 2 hours to get down, so be sure to time yourself carefully so you don't have to hike in the dark.
After the hike, you can congratulate yourself with a feast at Shpella Guesthouse with an all-you-can-eat dinner they serve there every evening.
Be sure to get out and see the stars at night after dinner. You can walk along the main dirt road to get away from artificial light and you will have the entire Milky Way to yourself 😉. Once that is done, prepare yourself for the long trek across the Theth-Valbona Pass we will be tackling the next day.
Where to Stay in Theth?
Getting from Theth to Valbona
We hike. 😃
Day 22: Valbona, Albania (1 night)
Today will be a big day for you as you will be hiking the famous Theth-Valbona trail for 7 hours through one of the most beautiful mountains you will see in Albania. Your journey begins from the trailhead in Theth.
Right out of the bat, you will be hiking up the mountain for 3 hours on a steep trail that shoots up to Valbona Pass, the highest point of the trail. This is the steepest and hardest part of the hike so be sure to take it slow.
Along the trail up to the Pass, you will find several viewpoints and cafes where you can stop and relax before continuing. After you arrive at the pass, be sure to hike up further to get to a panoramic viewpoint where you will be able to see both sides of the valley from above.
Be extra careful at the viewpoint as the trail up there is very narrow and covered in slippery gravel. Once you are done taking photos, you can continue down the path into the forest and the trail will follow a rocky river bed for another 4 hours until you arrive in Valbona.
After 3 hours of hiking, you will eventually reach a paved road. Congratulations, you have reached Valbona! Depending on where you are staying, you might have to walk a little further to get to your accommodation.
For my itinerary, I recommend you stay at Jezerca Guesthouse which is right at the end of Valbona so you will have to walk along the road for another 45 minutes.
The view along both sides of the road is pretty impressive so you should be able to do that 45-minute walk in no time. Be sure to also come out at night again if you wish to see the Milky Way one last time before leaving the mountain the next day.
Where to Stay in Valbona?
Getting from Valbona to Shkodra
If you wish to go to Shkodra the next day, be sure to tell your guesthouse you are leaving so that they can call the fourgon driver to pick you up at the accommodation the next day.
To get back to Shkodra, you will have to first get on a fourgon from Valbona to Fierze, and then you will have to take a ferry across Koman Lake to Koman before being transferred from Koman to Shkodra with another fourgon.
You will need to have the tickets you bought in Shkodra on hand before you can take these furgons and the ferry. If you do not, you can also buy all the tickets from your guesthouse in Valbona the day before. All 3 tickets should cost around 2,200 LEK.
The fourgon from Valbona to Fierze will come and pick you up at 10:30 AM and you will arrive in Fierze in one hour. Then, you can get on a 1 PM ferry to Koman which will take another 2 hours before they transfer you from Koman to Shkodra with another 2 hours ride. All in all, you will arrive back in Shkodra by 6 PM.
Shkodra, Albania (1 night)
After a good night's sleep, you will have to wake up and catch the 10:30 AM fourgon to Fierze. From Fierze, you can wait at the restaurant by the port for the 1 PM ferry that will take you across Komani Lake to Koman.
Once the ferry arrives, give another ticket to the ticket collectors before you board, and make sure to find a seat outside that is under the shade. The view on both sides of the lake is pretty unforgettable.
The ferry will cruise through Komani Lake for 2 hours before arriving in Koman where there will be several furgons waiting for you. Once you arrive in Koman, you can simply pick one of the fourgon waiting, give the driver your ticket and you will be back in Shkodra in 2 hours.
Congratulations, you have finally completed the Theth-Valbona hike! You can either spend the rest of the day chilling out in Shkodra or you can walk to Rozafa Castle, climb up to the wall and sit outside while watching the sunset over the beautiful landscape around Shkodra.
Getting from Shkodra to Tirana
This is the same as how you get to Shkodra but in the opposite direction. There are several buses running between Shkodra and Tirana every hour leaving from the Sheshi Demonkracia roundabout so you can get on one of them.
The bus will take 2 hours, cost 300 LEK, and they will drop you off at the Northward Bus Station in Tirana where you can then take a taxi or walk back to the city center.
Day 24 - 25: Tirana, Albania (2 nights)
And we finally arrive in the colorful capital city of Albania, Tirana, a great place to learn about the forgotten history of Albania and its infamous dictator and his foreign invasion paranoia that resulted in over 170,000 bunkers built all across the country.
Before you learn about the dark history of Albania, you will first begin your journey in Tirana at Skanderbeg Square, a large space surrounded by several tourist attractions that you should check out while you are in the city.
Et'hem Bej Mosque, an Ottoman-era mosque located right in the middle of Skanderbeg Square is a great place to start. The prayer hall inside Et'hem Bej Mosque is decorated with frescos depicting waterfalls and nature, something that you don't see often in mosques.
Near the mosque, you will find Tirana Clock Tower, a great place to climb up if you are looking for a great viewpoint to see Skanderbeg Square and the city from above.
Now, that we've seen the beauty of modern Albania, it is time to learn about the history of this country. Bunk'Art 2 is a nuclear bunker turned museum that shows how cruel the communist regime was when it was isolated from the outside world.
The museum will introduce you to Enver Hoxha, the infamous dictator whose name you won't be able to take your mind off easily throughout your trip to Albania.
The museum will take you through an actual nuclear bunker completed with several rooms that retain its original purposes like the apartment reserved for the Minister of Internal Affairs and even the decontamination room.
If you are interested in not just the history of the communist regime but the origin of the people of Albania from the beginning of the Ottoman era to the Soviet era to now, be sure to visit The National History Museum.
For the evening, I would recommend you take a bus out to the Dajti National Park and get a cable car up Dajti Mountain and watch the sunset there.
Dajti Mountain is a 1,613 m tall mountain that is one of the most popular retreats for locals to escape the bustling loudness of Tirana and be among nature.
From up there, you will be able to see Tirana and all the beautiful landscape surrounding it in its entirety. It is one of the best viewpoints in Tirana and one that I recommend you check out before leaving the city.
Other things to check out in Tirana are the Pyramid of Tirana, an abandoned communist-era structure built in a shape of a pyramid, Tirana's New Bazaar, a great place to find delicious food to eat or go people-watching, or if you have an extra day, go on a day trip to Kruje and learn more about Skanderbeg in his last stronghold before the Ottoman took over.
Getting from Tirana to Berat
After spending a day in Tirana, it is time to travel to our next destination, Berat. To get to Berat, you will have to get on one of the several buses leaving from Tirana Southward Bus Station.
The bus leaves from 5:40 AM twice an hour to 5 PM and it costs around 400 LEK per person. The journey will take about 2 hours and you will be dropped off at Berat Bus Terminal where you can get any of the local buses straight into Berat Old Town.
Day 26 - 27: Berat, Albania (2 nights)
Berat, or as it is known as the City of Thousand Windows, is a charming UNESCO town full of Ottoman-era traditional houses, massive fortress structures, and a ton of cool things for you to do.
One of the most prominent landmarks in Berat is the Berat Castle, a Roman-era castle that sits atop a rocky hill on the left bank of the Osum River overlooking the city of Berat.
From the bottom, it might look like there is much to do in the castle. Don't let that fool you since that is just the wall of the castle. Inside the wall, you will find houses with people still living inside and a ton of beautiful old structures waiting for you to explore.
One of that structures is the Holy Trinity Church, a medieval Byzantine church built in the 13th Century located off the side of the Castle Hill. It makes quite a photogenic spot to capture the church, the city, and the mountain all in one frame.
After the castle, you can then come down to explore all the beautiful quarters of Berat like the Mangalem Quarter and Gorica Quarter where you can stroll around in. The 2 quarters used to house Muslims and Christians respectively. That is no longer the case nowadays but the area is still full of old churches and mosques you can check out.
Be sure to check out Lead Mosque, King Mosque, and Bachelor's Mosque as well as St. Theodore's Church and Saint Demetrius Cathedral while you are in Mangalem District.
An hour before sunset, there is a nice hike you can do that will take you up to the top of a hill behind Gorica Quarter where you can watch the sunset over the city. From up at the top, you will be able to see Berat and the castle from the opposite side.
It is much quieter up here than at the viewpoint at the castle which is always crowded so if you are looking for a peaceful place to sit and watch the sunset quietly, this hike is a must.
After the sunset, be sure to go walk along Bulevardi Republika and experience the "xhiro hour", an Albanian tradition where people would come out after sunset from all over the place to walk up and down the boulevard and socialize with each other.
It can turn a seemingly quiet city into the liveliest city you will ever see, full of locals out and about in droves. I've never seen anything quite like it.
Getting from Berat to Gjirokaster
There are 2 buses that go from Berat to Gjirokaster daily, one at 8 AM and another at 2 PM. You can get the bus at Berat Bus Terminal where you will have to take a local bus to get to.
To get from the Old Town to Berat Bus Terminal, you will have to stand on the right side of Berat's Main Road and flag down a local bus that is going north. The local bus will cost you 30 LEK and it will take you around 10 - 20 minutes to get to the terminal in time for your bus to Gjirokaster.
The bus to Gjirokaster will cost you 900 LEK and it will take around 3 hours to reach Gjirokaster and they will drop you off at Gjirokaster Bus Stop.
Day 28 - 29: Gjirokaster, Albania (2 nights)
Gjirokaster is another UNESCO heritage site that is also known as the Stone City of Thousand Steps. From the outside, it may seem like Gjirokaster is the same as Berat with both having an Ottoman-era castle on top of a hill to explore and both are UNESCO Heritage sites but in reality, they could not have been further apart.
Gjirokaster offers a range of different things to do that set it apart from Berat. Gjirokaster Castle, one of the most iconic landmarks in the city, is a beautiful castle that resembles more of a fortress than the on in Berat.
Within the walls of Gjirokaster, you will find large hallways full of canons, beautiful gardens, a stunning stone clock tower, and 2 museums you can visit to learn more about the origin of Gjirokaster.
Gjirokaster Museum is the one I would recommend you visit whereas you can skip the Arms Museum if you don't have time. Inside Gjirokaster Museum, you will learn about the ancient history of the city, the origin of the name, and legends and stories that will help you understand the city a bit more.
Gjirokaster is also the birthplace of Enver Hoxha, the communist leader responsible for all the nuclear bunkers I mentioned earlier and you can learn more about his ordeal in the museum as well.
There are also quite a few bunkers you can explore in Gjirokaster. The best one is the one that is hidden away in plain sight on the street of Gjirokaster Old Town.
In order to get there, you will have to go on a free walking tour with Stone City Hostel and Walter, the owner will show you around as well as explain the rich history of Gjirokaster in much greater detail.
That said, he only offers the walking tour to guests from the hostel, and so I would recommend you stay at the Stone City Hostel when you are in Gjirokaster.
He also offers a day trip as well where he would take out his jeep and go around exploring all the hidden gems around Gjirokaster. One of my favorite places he took me to is the hidden waterfall where we got to jump off a cliff. The more reason to stay at the hostel! 😉
Be sure to also check out Gjirokaster Old Bazaar at night for a lively evening, Skenduli Traditional House and learn more about how the people lived back then, and hike to Ali Pasha Bridge, an old Ottoman-era stone bridge that is still in use today by the shepherds.
Getting from Gjirokaster to Himara
You will have to get a 10 - 11 AM bus to Saranda first which should cost around 400 LEK and takes 1 hour. The bus will drop you off at the Saranda Bus Stop where you can then get on the 1 PM bus to Himara for another 500 LEK and 1.5 hours.
To get from Gjirokaster Old Town to Gjirokaster Bus Stop, you will have to walk down for about 20 minutes to the gas station that they dropped you off before and get on a fourgon to Saranda. Just shout Saranda and someone will direct you to the right fourgon .
Day 30 - 31: Himara, Albania (2 nights)
After a week in Albania, we have finally arrived in the Albanian Riviera. The Albanian Riviera covers quite a large area along the Ionian Sea on the Southwestern coast of the country, which is hard to explore without a base. That is why we are going to Himara.
Himara is a small town located right in the middle of all the beautiful beaches making it the perfect base for you. There are also more things to do other than relaxing at the beach such as going up to Himara Castle for a sunset, which I recommend you do on the day you arrive.
Himara Castle and the Old Town is an ancient settlement that dates all the way back to the Bronze Age. Within the old town, you will find old churches built with stones and a platform for you to see Himara and its beautiful beach from above making it a great place for the sunset.
As beautiful as it was, Himara Castle is not actually the best spot to watch the sunset in Himara. The best spot to watch the sunset in Himara is actually at the Sunset Restorat Bar located on a cliff south of Himara.
From the bar, you will get to see the coastline of Himara with a mountainous backdrop of the hills and mountains of Southern Albania in its entirety. A sight that is hard to forget.
From Himara, it's a 35-minute walk through the city and another 10-minute hike up to the restaurant where you will be able to see the sky turn purple and the quiet town of Himara wakes up from its slumber and come to life.
During the day in Himara, I would recommend you rent a kayak for around 3 hours and explore all the hidden caves and beaches along the Albanian coastline or spend the rest of the day relaxing by the beach, going for a stroll, and just taking in the chill vibe of the Albanian Riviera before we move on to other destination.
Getting from Himara to Tirana
From Himara to Shkodra, there is a direct bus that goes early in the morning in the summer so if you are there during that time, you can go to the S8 main road in Himara and flag a fourgon to Tirana down.
There are reports that the bus comes early in the morning ranging from 6 AM - 7:30 AM so you will have to check with your hostel/hotel for the updated schedule. The direct bus will cost 1000 LEK and take around 5 hours.
If there is no direct bus going that day, you can also take the 9:00 AM (go earlier if you have the option) to Saranda which will cost around 500 LEK and take 1.5 hours. Then, you can catch the hourly bus from Saranda to Tirana. The bus from Saranda to Tirana will cost 1300 LEK and you will arrive in Tirana in about 5 hours.
Tirana, Albania (1 night)
You can spend your last night in Albania exploring the incredible nightlife here or retreat for the day and prepare for your trip to Kosovo, one of the least traveled countries in the Balkans. We are really going off the beaten path now!
Getting from Tirana to Prizren, Kosovo
From Tirana to Prizren, Kosovo, depending on the day you plan to travel, there are several buses per day from 5:45 AM to 8 PM. The bus often leaves from Tirana North Bus Station taking about 3 hours to reach the Prizren and it should cost around 15 EUR per person. You can check the bus schedule from here.
The Albania-Kosovo border crossing is one of the easiest border crossings here. You do not need to step out of the bus to go through immigration. The bus driver will take your passport, get it stamped, and return it to you without you having to move a muscle.
Day 33 - 34: Prizren, Kosovo (2 nights)
Located on the banks of the Prizren River between the foothills of the Šar Mountains in southern Kosovo, Prizren is the second largest city in the country and is considered to be the history capital of Kosovo, due to its long rich heritage that dated all the way back to the bronze age which makes for a great place to visit as we explore Kosovo.
From the Romans to the Byzantines to the Serbians to the Ottomans, the city had always been the cultural and intellectual center of the region for centuries. Because of that, you will find some of the country's most well-preserved structures and historical buildings here, in Prizren.
Out of all the historical places I visited in Prizren, Prizren Fortress has got to be my favorite. This medieval fortress perched atop a hill overlooking the city offers one of the best viewpoints in the city. Hell, I would even go as far as to claim this to be one of the best viewpoints in the entire country!
It is also a popular place for both locals and travelers alike to sit back, relax, and experience the magnificent sunset as it dips behind the mountainous landscapes surrounding Prizren.
The best sunset spot is of course, on the walls right above the front entrance you entered the fortress from. The walls are facing west providing the perfect sunset spot as well as incredible views over the Prizren and its mountainous landscapes.
If you arrive in Prizren in time for sunset, you can hit the ground running and go straight to the fortress to watch the sunset before retreating for the day or you can leave it for the next evening as we will have the entire day dedicated to exploring this wonderful city.
The next day, we are going to explore Prizren's Old Town, home to all kinds of souvenir shops, restaurants, and cafes, as well as beautiful old buildings, narrow streets, and a pretty riverfront street, perfect to start your exploration of Prizren.
This area is one of the liveliest neighborhoods in the city and you will find many people from all over the city, coming out in droves, and hanging out in this area, socializing with one another, indulging themselves in the awesome riverfront restaurants and cafes, especially after sundown.
While you explore Prizren's Old Town, you might start noticing many people hanging out in cafes, socializing and enjoying each other's company at all hours around the old town area.
Kosovo is well known for its awesome coffee culture. It is part of their identity and you can clearly see that by the number of cafes you find across the country. One of the most well-known and well-established of all, is the Prince Coffee House, a local cafe chain that rivals Starbucks in every way but way WAY cheaper!
With the same comfy vibe of Starbucks and a wide variety of fresh coffee and pastry selections, but at a very affordable price of around 1.5 EUR for a cup of coffee, after you had a coffee here, you will start to wonder why you pay so much for Starbucks!
Before we cross the river and explore the other side of Prizren, I highly recommend you walk west from the old town and check out the Catholic Cathedral of Our Lady of Perpetual Succour, a stunning cathedral featuring a striking neo-Gothic design and towering spires that dominate the city's skyline.
Once you are done, you can cross the Stone Bridge that connects the 2 sides of the city together, which is a tourist attraction in itself with its beautiful iconic Ottoman-style stone arch bridge that reminds us how influential the Ottomans were to his part of Europe.
Located not too far from the Stone Bridge, you will find Xhamia e Emin Pashës Mosque, a small but very impressive mosque with one of the most colorful interiors you will see here.
It is one of the hidden gems of the city that not many tourists know about. I mean, Prizren in itself is already a hidden gem, but this mosque is a hidden gem inside a hidden gem, so be sure to drop by here when you are in Prizren.
Other tourist attractions in Prizren you should check out are the Mother of God of Ljeviš Church, a beautiful 14th Century Orthodox considered part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Turkish Bath, a well-preserved Turkish bath with its walls and roofs still intact, and the Albanian League of Prizren, a museum dedicated to the political organization who advocate for the rights and interests of the Albanian people, who were living under Ottoman rule at the time.
With all of these tourist attractions in Prizren, it should occupy your entire day here. You can spend the rest of the evening, relaxing at your accommodation or hanging out at Prizren's Old Town and trying some of the delicious local cuisines before you retreat for the day and prepare to travel out of Kosovo the next day, officially completing our itinerary! Congratulations!
Getting from Prizren to Peja
To get from Prizren to Peja (Peć), you should be able to catch one of the many buses that connect the 2 cities together from the Prizren Bus Terminal which is walkable from Prizren City Center.
There are several buses running this route from 6:50 AM to 5:45 PM every day. The bus takes about 2 hours and costs between 5 - 10 EUR. You can check out the bus schedule here. If you can't find Peja, try typing in Peć as your destination which is the Serbian name of the city.
In Kosovo, you do not have to buy bus tickets at the bus station unless you are traveling internationally. For local buses, just go on the bus and there will be a staff that comes and collects money when the bus departs.
You can ask the terminal staff to point you to the right bus as well as the price so you can prepare enough cash for the trip. No credit card is accepted for local buses here.
Day 35 - 36: Peja, Kosovo (2 nights)
Sits on top of the ruins of an ancient Roman town, Siparantum, right on the foothills of the famous Accursed Mountains (Albanian Alps), Peja is known as one of the oldest towns and one of the best hiking spots in the country and is what we will be doing here.
But first, we should explore the city and see what it has to offer by starting in Peja Bazaar, a long pedestrian street lined with all kinds of local shops selling all sorts of things from clothes to spices.
It is one of the oldest commercial areas in the region dating back to the Ottoman period and you can still find original artisan shops here such as the Albanian cap-makers, gown-makers, tapestry-makers, shoemakers, watch-makers, and even goldsmiths. Some of these shops have been operating for decades! A great place to stroll around in and get a feel of this city before we give the city undivided attention the next day.
For the full day we have in Peja, we are going to spend the morning half of the day doing some hiking to see why Peja is considered the best hiking spot in the country.
One of the best short easy hikes you can do in Peja is Livadhi Sakes Trail, a small 3 hours hike that will take you along the foothill of the Accursed Mountains, up to a beautiful opening where you will be able to enjoy a nice view of Peja from above as well as a great vantage point to see some of the beautiful peaks of the surrounding mountains here.
The trail begins from this trailhead on the western side of town. You should be able to reach the trailhead on foot from Peja city center in about 20 - 30 minutes. You can stroll along the riverside boardwalk I recommended earlier so that you can get a glimpse of the view you will be seeing during the hike.
Along the way, you will be surrounded by a beautiful lush green forest set against the backdrop of Peja and the surrounding mountains. There will be rest stops along the way that will provide a nice vantage point over Peja so be sure to keep an eye out for one.
From the trailhead, it should take about 1 hour before you arrive at Livadhi Sakes, which is a nice spacious opening on the foothills of the Accursed Mountains with an incredible view of the surrounding mountains.
At the viewpoint, you will find several park benches where you can sit, relax, and enjoy the view as you are surrounded by a spacious grassy area, lush green forests, and the beautiful mountain peaks that make the Accursed Mountains so popular among hikers.
Once you are done at the viewpoint, you can make your way down to the main road, cross the river, and make your way back to Peja but before that, we are going to stop by some of the tourist attractions in Peja along the way.
One of the first attractions you will stumble upon as you make your way back to Peja is the Patriarchal Monastery of Peć, a medieval Serbian Orthodox monastery that is considered one of the most important cultural and religious sites in the region and is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, making it a must-visit place in Peja.
The monastery contains several churches, all of which are adorned with beautiful and incredibly detailed frescoes that are considered some of the finest examples of medieval Serbian art out there. The amount of details of these frescoes in the monastery is mind-blowing, to say the least.
From left to right, from top to bottom, the entire interior of some of these churches is covered entirely by these intricately designed frescoes, in all the colors the human eyes can register.
After you are done at the monastery, you can continue east until you arrive at Rugova Canyon tourist information center where you can rent a bike and ride west towards Rugova Canyon, the canyon we just saw from afar during the hike.
With the bike, you can visit some of the most popular viewpoints along the canyon or you can zipline across the canyon for 10 EUR instead if you have never done it before.
After you are done exploring Rugova Canyon, you can make your way back to town and visit Peja Town Square, a more modern side of town where you will find yourself surrounded by Brutalist and modern buildings set against the beautiful Accursed Mountains.
It is another lively area of Peja surrounded by all sorts of cafes and restaurants and a perfect place for you to rest after a long day of exploration and indulge yourself in the delicious local cuisines here.
If you are looking for a big local grilled meat platter, I highly recommend you check out a local restaurant located somewhere around here that serves a great selection of grilled meats where you can select a bunch of them and try. You know the restaurant is extremely local when it is unmarked on Google Maps!
For the dish above, it only costs me 4 EUR which is a deal you won't find anywhere else but in Kosovo. After dinner, you can spend more time and explore the square or retreat for the night and prepare for your trip to Pristina the next day.
Getting from Peja to Pristina
To get from Peja (Peć) to Pristina, you should be able to catch one of the many buses that connect the 2 cities together from the Peja Bus Terminal. There are several buses running this route from 6:45 AM to 5:15 PM every day. The bus runs every 20 minutes, taking about 1.5 hours, and costs between 5 - 10 EUR. You can check out the bus schedule here.
Day 37 - 38: Pristina, Kosovo (2 nights)
And for our last destination in Kosovo, we are going to visit Pristina, the capital city of Kosovo, a vibrant and diverse city full of interesting architecture, lively cafe culture, and interesting way of life that will give you a glimpse of what it is like to live in one of the newest countries in the world, gaining independence only in 2008.
First order of business, we are going to visit the National University Library of Kosovo which many people considered to be the ugliest building in the world but to tell you the truth, I do not know what the hell they were talking about. This place is freaking amazing!
I think the library is one of the most unique-looking stunning piece of architecture I have ever seen and it really makes Pristina stands out from the other capital cities in the Balkans.
In fact, it is one of the main reasons why I want to visit this city in the first place! The library's stunning glass facade and imposing design are what make this structure stand out for me. Out of all the places I have visited in Pristina, this is the most memorable landmark of all. I even dare say, this is the mother of all Brutalist buildings!
Once you are done at the national library, walk across the main road and you will find the Cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa, one of the most prominent structures in the city with an impressive bell tower that you can climb up to the top to get an incredible vantage point over the city and the surrounding areas.
Since it was only built in 2010, the cathedral boasts a grandeur and modern design, both from the outside and inside, unlike the other Brutalist building designs you will find elsewhere in Pristina. Inside, you will find a nice modern-looking nave with wooden ceilings and benches, a beautiful modern take on the European Cathedral design that is a breath of fresh air to see.
The best part of the Cathedral though is not the interior but its 70-meter-tall bell tower, one of the tallest structures in the city that you can go up with an elevator all the way to the top for an incredible view of the city.
One of the liveliest places you will find in Pristina is Mother Theresa Boulevard, the commercial hub of the city where a pedestrian street runs through the city center with both sides of the street, lined with shops, restaurants, cafes, and park benches you can hang out at.
This is why I would recommend you check out Mother Theresa Boulevard after you are done with the cathedral. I just love how spacious the square is, with trees and park benches along the street allowing me to sit and relax in between my exploration of Kosovo, watching the locals out and about, enjoying themselves.
If you can manage to align your visit to Sundays, you will be surprised how lively this place gets, with the main road that stretches from the square all the way to the cathedral of Saint Mother Teresa closed off from traffic, and ping pong tables, basketball hoops, and make-shift futsal fields, sprung up along the streets. A really fun and lively environment to be in!
While you are in Pristina, also be sure to check out Kurrizi or "The Spine", a massive high-rise apartment building followed by chains of shops, stacked on top of each other, reminiscent of the spine, a result of the 80s housing project designed to house the 80s thriving middle class.
It was the social fabric of the people in Kosovo during the troubling years and after its deterioration during the 90s, the people living in these stacked buildings were able to preserve the sense of freedom that Kurrizi was known for, which makes for a great place to explore if you wish to see what life is like in Pristina during the 90s.
Also, after you are done with Kurrizi, be sure to drop by and check out the Statue of Bill Clinton, a monument erected in 2009 depicting Clinton with his arm raised and a broad smile on his face, standing tall on the street that was named after the US 42nd president. I've never seen Bill Clinton more revered than here, not even in the US.
Other notable attractions you should check out while you are in Pristina are the Imperial Mosque (Džamija Cara), one of the most sacred and beautiful mosques in the city, the Kosovo Museum, and the Ethnographic Museum, great places to visit if you want to learn more about the history of Kosovo, and so much more.
After spending the entire day exploring Pristina, it is time to retreat for the night and prepare to cross the border into North Macedonia and visit the beautiful Lake Ohrid!
Getting from Pristina to Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia
To get from Pristina to Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia, you will first have to catch a bus to Skopje, the capital city of North Macedonia from Pristina Bus Terminal which is walkable from Pristina City Center. There are several buses running this route from 5:30 AM to 6 PM every day. The bus runs every 30 minutes, taking about 2 hours, and costs between 5 - 10 EUR. You can check out the bus schedule here.
Take the early bus to Skopje so that you will be able to catch the 11 AM bus from Skopje to Lake Ohrid in time. The journey should take about 3 hours and cost around 5 - 10 EUR. You can check the bus schedule here.
For the Kosovo-North-Macedonia border crossing, you will have to get off the bus and get your passport stamps yourself at both immigration points in both countries. Nothing stressful but not the most convenient border crossing in the Balkans.
Day 39 - 40: Lake Ohrid, North Macedonia (3 nights)
Lake Ohrid is a breathtaking lake surrounded by beautiful natural wonders and medieval towns rich in history, tucked away in the southwestern part of North Macedonia, sharing the border with Albania. With its incredible view, a town steeped in history, and unrivaled affordability, there is no better place to begin our journey in North Macedonia than here
One of the most prominent landmarks at Lake Ohrid that you should check out first thing in the morning is Samuel's Fortress, a beautiful towering medieval fortress Perched atop a hill overlooking the glistening waters of Lake Ohrid that have stood the test of time for centuries.
You can stroll around the fortress ground, check out the excavated sites as well as climb up to its walls, and check out the incredible views of the city, the lake, and its mountainous surroundings. The views from the walls are quite a sight to behold.
To get to the fortress, there are several hiking trails you can take but I highly recommend you start from the Ohrid Boardwalk, a lakeside boardwalk that will take you from Ohrid's Old Town all the way to Samuel's Fortress along a lakeside path, through a forest, and up to the fortress on an incredibly picturesque trail.
The boardwalk starts from here and you will be walking along a trail made out of plank woods that hovers above the lake as it curved its way around the foot of a cliff, zigzagging its way up the cliffside.
Along the way, you will be able to admire the stunning views of the lake and experience it up close as well as get a chance to swim in its crystal clear water at Potpesh Beach, a small strip of pebble beach you can relax at, and Kaneo Beach with swimming platform and a restaurant.
Once you arrive at Kaneo Beach, you should find a path that goes up the cliff. It is a nice easy walk up along the lake and up the cliff that should take about 20 - 30 minutes to complete and at the top of the cliff, awaits the Church of Saint John the Theologian, one of the most iconic places at Lake Ohrid.
You can stroll around the church courtyard, admiring the beautiful view of the lake, or go inside the church and check out its famous Byzantine-era frescoes and intricate stone carvings, surrounded by beautiful interior decorations, and learn about the fascinating history of the church.
After you are done at the church, continue making your way towards Samuel's Fortress and you will stumble upon one of the most impressive structures here, the Church of Saints Clement and Panteleimon, a Byzantine church known for its incredible history, impressive architecture, and archeological sites the church was built on top of.
These archeological sites are believed to have been the site where the first students of the Glagolitic alphabet (used to translate the Bible into Old Church Slavonic) were taught in the First Bulgarian Empire. In the church courtyard, you will find remnants of old structures with stone foundations and several columns scattered across the courtyard.
After the church, you will finally arrive at Samuel's Fortress. Spend about an hour or 2 exploring the fortress and the surrounding areas before making your way down the hill from the other side. Along the way, be sure to stop by the Ancient Macedonian Theatre of Ohrid, a theatre that dated all the way back to 200 BC, making it one of the oldest structures you will find here.
Other notable attractions you should check out while you are at Lake Ohrid are Ohrid's Old Bazaar the main commercial hub of Ohrid with a cobblestone street lined with shops, restaurants, and cafes, the Church of Saint Sophia, a 9th Century church with beautiful cloister and courtyard, and Robev Family House, a popular museum housed in a beautiful 19th Century Ohrid traditional architecture.
Last but not least, if you are looking for the best sunset spots at Lake Ohrid, and you should since Lake Ohrid is one of the best places to witness the sunset in the country, you just can't beat the view of the lake and Ohrid's Old Town from the Old Swimming Court.
This old swimming court is a concrete harbor perched off from the lakeside boulevard that runs along the lake, offering an incredible view of Ohrid's Old Town and the surrounding area as if you are in the middle of the lake.
The sunset from here is quite a sight to behold with the sky turning vivid purple as the sun dips behind the mountains over the horizon. The crystal clear water of the lake also becomes steady and calm, creating a perfect reflection of the lake as it reflects the purple sky.
Before retreating for the night, you can go for a stroll along the lake, check out some of the local restaurants, and try some traditional dishes like Moussaka, a popular eggplant or potato-based dish with ground meat stuffing, which is pretty common in this region of the Balkans. I recommend Viva Ksantika, a small local restaurant located in the old town of Ohrid. Nice homely atmosphere with traditional homemade dishes at an affordable price. What more can you ask for in a restaurant?
For the second day here, you can spend the entire day relaxing and resting. After traveling for so long now, you should get a day off to take a break and slow down and I can't think of a better place than here. Go for a stroll along the lake and enjoy a nice cup of coffee at one of the many lakeside cafes and restaurants, before retreating for the day.
Getting from Lake Ohrid to Skopje
To get from Lake Ohrid to Skopje, you can catch the bus from the Classic Company office where they operate a connection between the 2 cities. There are 4 buses per day at 11 AM, 12:30 PM, 7:30 PM, and 8 PM every day. The journey should take about 3 hours, and cost around 850 DEN or 14 EUR.
There are other bus operators but you have to catch the bus from the Ohrid bus station which is a little further away, so it is not the most convenient. You can check out the bus schedule here.
Day 42 - 43: Skopje, North Macedonia (2 nights)
Next up, we visit Skopje, the capital city of North Macedonia, a place where history and modernity collide. It's a city of contrasts, where old-world charm meets contemporary vibrancy, and where cultural experiences and outdoor adventures abound.
To start off our exploration in Skopje, we are going to begin at Skopje's Old Bazaar, a bustling marketplace that has been a fixture of the city for centuries since the Ottoman times. The market is located right in the heart of Skopje's city center, across the Vardar River, which makes for a great place to begin our journey as we make our way across the city.
While you are exploring the Old Town, be sure to drop by and check out Kuršumli An, an abandoned caravanserai which is an ancient roadside inn where travelers (caravaners) could rest and recover from the day's journey. Caravanserais supported the flow of commerce in ancient times and you can often find these inns all over the ancient Silk Road.
Located on the hillside overlooking the Old Bazaar, you will also find Mustafa Paša Mosque, one of the most prominent structures in Skopje's Old Town known for its impressively well-preserved condition that is mostly intact since it was constructed in the 15th Century.
The mosque is known for its beautiful interior with stunning Islamic patterns and decors, similar to mosques in Turkey which goes to show just how much influence the Ottomans had on this city.
After you are done at Mustafa Paša Mosque, continue walking up the street and make your way to Skopje Fortress, a historic citadel perched on the hill you just climb overlooking the city that has stood watch over the capital of North Macedonia for centuries.
You can spend hours just wandering through the fortress's courtyards and ramparts, admiring its impressive towers and gates, and learn about its fascinating history through informative displays and exhibits often held in buildings inside the castle.
Now, if you are interested in the history of Skopje and North Macedonia, there are a slew of museums you can check out in Skopje that will provide you with a glimpse of forgotten history that is rarely taught outside of the country.
For a museum about the Macedonian revolution for independence in 1991, I highly recommend you check out the Museum of the Macedonian Struggle. For those who are interested in learning more about the story of the Jewish Macedonian people during the Holocaust, you should check out the Macedonian Holocaust Museum.
Other museums like the Archaeological Museum of the Republic of Macedonia and Museum of the Republic of Macedonia are also worth a visit as well if you are interested to learn more about the less gloomy history of North Macedonia so for history buffs out there, be sure to check some of these museums out while you are in Skopje.
Of course, you have to visit Square Macedonia, a vast public space that serves as the city's central gathering place, and right at the center, you will find a giant statue of Alexandar, the Great, the biggest statue in the city standing over 22 meters (72 feet), towering all the surrounding buildings in the square.
The square is probably one of the most impressive sights of the city as the square is also surrounded by some of Skopje's most impressive architecture as well as plenty of restaurants and cafes you can enjoy making it great for lunch or dinner.
At night, the square is especially lively with people coming out in droves, hanging out around the square, and enjoying each other's company while the street performers keep us entertained throughout the night.
Other notable attractions you should check out are the Memorial House of Mother Teresa, a museum dedicated to the life and work of Mother Teresa who was born and raised in Skopje, the Macedonian Church St. Clement of Ohrid, one of the most unique-looking churches in the city, and check out all the statues that got the city its name, the City of Statues at the Bridge of Civilisations.
After a day of exploration, you can spend the rest of the day, hanging out at Square Macedonia, enjoying the local cuisine before retreating for the night, and preparing our journey to Sofia, Bulgaria the next day.
Getting from Skopje to Sofia, Bulgaria
To get from Skopje to Sofia, Bulgaria, you should be able to catch the morning bus leaving from Skopje Bus Terminal at 7 AM and it will take you to Sofia in about 5 hours and cost around 27 EUR per person. You can book the bus online here.
For the North-Macedonia-Bulgaria border crossing, you have to get off the bus to get your passport stamped on both sides. The security process was extremely strict here with customs officers coming onto the bus to check for undeclared items. They even went through my bags. This is probably due to the fact that Bulgaria is next in line to become part of the Schengen Zone after Croatia's ascension to the EU at the beginning of 2023.
Day 44 - 45: Sofia, Bulgaria (4 nights)
We begin our journey in Bulgaria in Sofia, the capital city of Bulgaria, home to some of the most beautiful and unique-looking architecture in the Balkans, as well as some of the liveliest cities out there with vibrant streets, hip cafes, and bustling markets waiting for you to explore.
And there is no better place to start exploring Sofia than at one of the most famous landmarks of all, St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, an impressive Orthodox cathedral considered to be one of the most beautiful cathedrals in the region, standing over 53 meters high.
The cathedral is best known for its perfect blend of Neo-Byzantine and Neo-Classical architectural styles featuring a striking gold-domed roof at the top of layers of green-domed ones, stacking on top of each other, creating a cascade, and it is standing prominently in a vast spacious square allowing us to appreciate it in all its glory.
The interior is also quite impressive with its massive arched hall, with walls adorned with stunning frescoes depicting scenes from the Bible, as well as images of important saints and martyrs, painted in these vibrant colors all across the central hall.
Not too far from St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, you will find the Church of St Paraskeva, a massive unique-looking church built in the early 20th Century with a similar architectural style to the St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral but smaller and with a little twist. A great place to drop by before we continue on our journey.
Another unique-looking church to see in Sofia is the Church of St. Nicholas the Miracle-Maker, a Russian Orthodox church built in the early 20th Century in a beautiful Russian Revival architectural style, which is unlike the other churches with large domed designs you see elsewhere. This church features 5 striking spires with iconic golden domes at the top which stands out from all the architecture around it so be sure to check it out.
Next up, you can visit St. George Rotunda Church, a well-preserved 9th Century church, one of the oldest structures you can find in the city which goes to show just how old the city really is.
The church is situated within a larger archaeological site which encompasses a range of ancient structures. Behind the apse of the church, you can see the remnants of an old Roman street with a well-preserved drainage system as well as foundations of a large basilica, and some smaller buildings so be sure to spend some time and stroll around the area before we continue on.
I hope you are not getting tired of churches yet because there is another impressive church in the city that you should also check out. Sveta Nedelya Church is an Eastern Orthodox cathedral originally built in the 10th Century but it had been destroyed and renovated so many times throughout history, it is hard to keep count.
Inside, you will find yourself in a large domed hall surrounded by colorful murals and frescoes. Every inch of this church's interior is painted with depictions of religious scenes and figures in amazing detail which is quite a sight to behold.
After you are done visiting all the churches, you can then visit Sofia's Regional History Museum, a fascinating museum that will allow you to learn more about the rich and diverse history of Sofia and the region.
The museum is also housed in this beautiful 19th-century neoclassical building that used to be Sofia Central Public Mineral Baths, which is a tourist attraction in itself.
After the museum, you can then spend the rest of the day hanging out around the National Palace of Culture, one of the most popular places for locals to hang out, especially on the weekends thanks to its spacious public areas. Make your way back from the palace to the city center via Bulevar Vitosha, a bustling pedestrian street lined with posh stores, restaurants, and bars you can indulge yourself in.
For those who are into nightlife, Sofia has a ton of hidden pubs and bars across the city. If you are interested in exploring these bars, I highly recommend you check out this pub crawl walking tour which will take you to 4 hidden gems around the city. A great way to see what Sofia has to offer for night owls among us.
Getting from Sofia to Rila Monastery
To get from Sofia to Rila Monastery, we are going to have to rely on organized tours to visit Rila Monastery and other places around the area as day trips. Here are a selection of tours that will take you here and back in one day as well as to other places depending on what you want to do:
Rila Monastery and Boyana Church tour is recommended for those who want to have a lot of time at Rila Monastery and you prefer a guided tour over self-guiding yourself around the tourist attractions. The tour will also take you to Boyana Church on the outskirts of Sofia.
If you prefer nature, you can also go on the 7 Rila Lakes and Rila Monastery tour which will take you to Panichishte in the beautiful Rila National Park, get on a cable car up the mountain, and spend 5 hours hiking, strolling, and admiring the views of the glacier lakes from a different perspective before visiting Rila Monastery.
Day 46: Rila Monastery and/or Rila Lakes, Bulgaria (Day Trip)
After spending a day exploring all the tourist attractions in Sofia, it is time to go off into the countryside and visit some of the best tourist attractions around the capital city.
One of the most important tourist attractions that you have to visit when you travel to Bulgaria is Rila Monastery, one of the most sacred Orthodox monasteries that attract more than 900,000 believers, pilgrims, and tourists from across the world each year.
Nestled in between the rolling mountains of Rila at an elevation of 1,147 m (3,763 ft) above sea level, covering more than 8.7 ha (940,000 sq ft), the monastery is considered to be the largest temple in the entire country.
Despite its impressive scenery and exotic location, the monastery is actually best known for its incredibly detailed and colorful frescoes and murals that cover both the inside and outside of the monastery.
It is one of the most beautiful frescoes I've ever seen in my life. Starting off right at the entrance of the monastery, you will be met with entire walls of the monastery covered in colorful murals from left to right, from top to bottom. The more you stare at it, the more detail you see.
The inside is also as impressive as the outside, if not more so with its impressive frescoes covering every inch of the interior that are even more beautiful.
Thanks to the smoke from the candles, the dimly lit atmosphere, and the sunlight that often shines through the small windows on the walls, that created this incredible atmospheric scene that is hard to describe how pretty it was in words. You can see the photos above to understand what I mean.
There are also several other structures you can check out while you are exploring Rila Monastery like the imposing Hrelyo's Tower and the museums scattered along the apartment complex that surrounds the monastery. You can spend hours exploring this monastery and you will still have yet to see them all.
While you are here, be sure to check out the monastery's bakery located behind the monastery, outside its walls, and try the fresh and hot Mekitsa, or fried dough with sugar sprinkled over it. It is the best Metkitsa I've tried here and it costs only 1 BGN (0.5 EUR) each!
To get to the monastery from Sofia, you are going to have to rely on an organized tour. There are several organized tours you can choose from that include visiting Rila Monastery as well as other tourist attractions depending on what you want to see.
The most popular one is the Rila Monastery and Boyana Church tour which will take you to Boyana Church, a 10th Century Eastern Orthodox church located on the outskirt of Sofia, known for its old and impressive frescoes inside. I went with this one and it was great with an informative guide and plenty of time to explore Rila Monastery.
If you prefer nature, you can also go on the 7 Rila Lakes and Rila Monastery tour which will take you to Panichishte in the beautiful Rila National Park, get on a cable car up the mountain, and spend 5 hours hiking, strolling, and admiring the views of the glacier lakes from a different perspective before visiting Rila Monastery.
This was the tour I chose initially but the cable car was closed for maintenance the day I was there so I had to choose the previous tour instead. If you are luckier than I am and you prefer nature, I highly recommend you go with this one. Looking for more day trips? Be sure to browse for available tours here.
Getting from Sofia to Plovdiv
To get from Sofia to Plovdiv, you can take either a bus or a train from Sofia Bus Station or Sofia Train Station respectively. For this trip, I prefer trains over buses as the trains in Bulgaria are surprisingly great with clean and well-maintained facilities and they are quite reliable, unlike trains in other countries in the Balkans, but both are great options for this trip and it will depend entirely on which modes of transportation fits your schedule most.
You can look up for train schedule on its official website and you can buy one at the ticket kiosk at the train station. There are several direct trains between the 2 cities from 6:20 AM to 10:25 PM every day. The journey should take about 2.5 hours and cost around 9.15 BGN (4.7 EUR).
For buses, you can check the schedule online and book the ticket directly here. The journey should take about 2 hours and cost around 8 EUR. A little faster than trains but also a bit more expensive.
Day 47 Plovdiv, Bulgaria (Day Trip)
On our third day in Sofia, we are going to go on a day trip and visit Plovdiv, the second-largest city in Bulgaria and one of the most historically rich cities in the country dating back to ancient times and as it was inhabited by Thracians, Romans, Byzantines, Bulgarians, and Ottomans throughout the centuries.
Today, Plovdiv is a vibrant cultural and economic center, known for its well-preserved Old Town, which is home to many historical and architectural landmarks, including the Roman amphitheater, the Roman stadium, and the medieval fortress walls.
One of the most popular tourist attractions you should check out first is the Ancient Theatre of Philippopolis, a well-preserved ancient amphitheater located in the heart of Plovdiv's Old Town, built in the 2nd century AD during the Roman Empire's rule of the city, and it is believed to have been one of the largest and most magnificent theaters in the Balkans.
After you are done at the ancient theatre, you can begin exploring all the beautiful historic structures in Plovdiv's Old Town like St. Constantine & Helena Church, the Regional Ethnographic Museum, one of the most beautiful buildings here, and Balabanov's House, a traditional house turned museum, preserving the 19th Century's way of life.
Plovdiv is also well known for its creative and artistic scene and there is no better place to experience it firsthand than at Kapana, a charming arts and cultural neighborhood of Plovdiv full of street arts, art galleries, and specialty shops.
The name Kapana translates to "The Trap" in English, and it is said that the district was named this because its narrow, winding streets were easy to get lost in. For me, it is probably more to do with the awesome creative and artistic scene as well as the number of cool cafes that will more likely trap me here forever 😂.
In Kapana, you will find plenty of impressive street art with incredible character design and creative color usage strapping across the side of buildings and walls all over the neighborhood, colorizing the street with vibrant colors.
And these are real artworks, not those random graffiti tags you often find in other parts of European cities. The street art here reflects the district's artistic spirit and cultural diversity, with a wide range of styles and themes you can find here, from abstract designs and colorful murals to political statements and social commentary. If you enjoy this kind of artwork, be sure to keep an eye out as you explore Kapana.
Other notable tourist attractions in Plovdiv are the Ancient Stadium of Philipopolis, another remnant of the Roman Empire, the lively Central Square and its Roman Forum, and Sveta Marina Church, a beautiful and historic Orthodox Christian church known for its incredible wooden bell tower
After spending a day exploring Plovdiv, it is time to find a nice viewpoint to watch the sunset and there is no better place to do that than from Alyosha Monument, a massive 1950s statue of a Soviet soldier, stands at the top of Bunardzhika Hill towering over the entire city.
From the trailhead, it takes about 30 minutes to walk from Central Square and hike along its stone steps, zigzagging your way up to the top of the hill. Along the way, you will get a glimpse of what the view will be like at the top as the cityscape of Plovdiv reveals to you more and more as you ascend.
At the top, you will find the striking Brutalist-style Alyosha Monument built on top of a platform where you can walk around and appreciate the panoramic view of Plovdiv and see all the other 6 hills that make up the city. It is an incredible sight to see and definitely worth the sweat.
Once you are done, you can come back down and start heading back to Sofia, but before that, be sure to drop by the beautiful Tsar Simeon Garden Park and check out the incredible light and sound show at Singing Fountains located adjacent to the park.
A great way to end the day in Plovdiv before we retreat back to our accommodation for the night and prepare our journey to Belgrade, Serbia.
Getting from Sofia to Belgrade, Serbia
To get from Sofia to Belgrade, you can catch the 9 AM bus from Sofia Bus Station and it will take you to Belgrade in about 5 hours. The bus ticket should cost around 40 EUR. You can check the bus schedule here or you can book one from Flixbus.
For the Bulgaria-Serbia border crossing, the security is pretty tight so it is not completely stress-free. It can take some time as you will have to get on and off the bus twice to get your passport stamp out and in again on both sides of the border.
Day 48 - 49: Belgrade, Serbia (4 nights)
And we start off our journey in Serbia at the capital city, Belgrade, well known for its incredible nightlife, which rivals those of Berlin and Amsterdam, as well as its incredibly diverse history and architecture ranging from art nouveau remnants of the Habsburgs to socialist modernist monoliths from bygone times.
There is a lot to see in this city so let's begin by visiting Belgrade Fortress, an incredible historic fortress that spans across a ridge overlooking a confluence of two rivers, providing a great view of the natural beauty around the capital city.
Other than the impressive vantage point the fortress provides, the place is also known for being one of the oldest and largest fortresses in Europe with a rich history that dates all the way back to the Celt and the Roman periods.
Right out of the gate, you will find a War Museum, showcasing all kinds of weaponry like tanks, artilleries, and more, all lined along the fortress walls. Once inside, you will find yourself in a huge park with a number of walking trails you can take.
Be sure to go all the way to the Victor Monument, a monument celebrating Serbia's victory during the Balkan Wars, and check out the views of the 2 rivers. It is quite a sight to behold.
You can also explore the fortress with a walking tour which will take you deeper into the fortress, going underground, and exploring the underground fortifications, spooky tunnels, and bunkers and caves carved out through the ages, from Roman times to the 20th century, hidden under Serbian's capital city.
After you are done with the fortress, you can make your way down to Kneza Mihaila Street, a pedestrian-only street located in the heart of the city center. It is one of the oldest and most famous streets in Belgrade, named after Mihailo Obrenović III, the prince of Serbia who ruled in the mid-19th century.
The street is lined with beautiful buildings, cafes, restaurants, and shops, and it's a popular destination for both locals and tourists to stroll around and hang out. It is one of the liveliest places in the city which makes for a great place to hang out and go people-watching.
As you stroll along Kneza Mihaila Street, you will eventually arrive at Republic Square, the central square of Belgrade, one of the busiest and most recognizable public spaces in the city, surrounded by some of its most important landmarks and cultural institutions.
Surrounding the square are several notable buildings, including the National Museum of Serbia, the National Theatre, and the Cultural Center of Belgrade, all of which are housed in these stunning art nouveau buildings the city is known for.
Not too far from Republic Square, you will also find another awesome piece of architecture, Hotel Moskva, a historic luxury hotel built in 1906 in this incredible Art Nouveau style, which has since become one of the most iconic landmarks of the city with its unique design that looks like a castle straight out of a fairytale.
As you continue east from Hotel Moskva, you will arrive at St. Mark Orthodox Church, a grand Serbian Orthodox church that is famous for its unique design which perfectly combines traditional Serbian and Byzantine architectural styles unlike any other structures in the city.
Once you are done, it is time to visit Saint Sava Temple, one of the most important landmarks that you should visit while you are in Serbia. With its massive size standing more than 70 meters tall, the church is one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world.
This church is definitely my favorite in the country, with its striking design and imposing size that dominates much of the Belgrade skyline. Its domed structure is so prominent that it can be seen from many parts of the city.
The crypt of Saint Sava Temple is also a must-visit with its incredible golden frescoes and murals that cover every inch of the crypt brightening up even the darkest of rooms. It is located beneath the main church and is accessible from the inside and it is my favorite part of the church, so be sure to make your way down there while you are here.
After you are done with Saint Sava Temple, it is time to learn more about the history of the forgotten country of Yugoslavia, a country that unified the Slavic people of the Balkans... for a brief moment at least, and there is no better place to do that than at the Museum of Yugoslavia.
The museum consists of several buildings and exhibitions with one of the highlights being the House of Flowers, which was the former residence of Yugoslav leader Josip Broz Tito.
The house has been converted into a museum dedicated to Tito's life and work, with exhibits showcasing his personal belongings, gifts he received from foreign leaders, and photographs and documents chronicling his political career. Tito's mausoleum is also located on the grounds of the House of Flowers.
To get there, you can catch bus #41 from Republic Square's bus stop or if you are at Saint Sava Temple, you can catch bus #36 from Karadordev Park's Bus Stop, and you should be there in no time.
These should occupy your entire first day in Belgrade. You can spend the rest of the day exploring all the awesome cafes in Belgrade, relax, and enjoy the vibrant city vibe at Kafeterija Magazin 1907, one of my favorite cafes in the city.
After that, you can go out into the night and explore the incredible nightlife scene of Belgrade that rival those of Berlin and Amsterdam with its selection of awesome bars, clubs, and pubs, that light up the city's street at night and keep the fun going until sunrise.
And one of my favorite areas to explore is Skadarlija, a charming bohemian quarter in Belgrade featuring all sorts of awesome restaurants, cafes, and bars, where you can spend your time enjoying traditional Serbian dinner or dancing the night away.
Huge shout out to my lovely friends from Serbia, Deric, and Emina from Adventurous2 who took me out on my birthday and showed me around the parts of Belgrade that I would never have discovered by myself!
For the second day in Belgrade, I highly recommend you go and rent a bike from iBike Belgrade and ride along the Danube River, enjoying the incredible nature and green space along the way, while also spending some time exploring New Belgrade and all its Brutalist buildings.
You can bike the biking path along the bank of the Danube River all the way to Gardoš Tower where you can climb up to the top for an incredible view of Belgrade and its converging rivers.
While you are in New Belgrade, you will also spot some of the most interesting-looking buildings in New Belgrade like the Palace of Serbia, Museum of Contemporary Art, Hotel Jugoslavija, and Genex Tower which is an awesome change from all the art nouveau buildings you saw in Old Belgrade.
After spending the second day exploring New Belgrade, you can spend the rest of the day relaxing, hanging out in the numerous restaurants and cafes in Old Belgrade before retreating for the night and preparing for your next destination, Novi Sad.
Getting from Belgrade to Novi Sad
To travel from Belgrade to Novi Sad, you can easily catch one of the many buses from Belgrade Main Bus Terminal that runs between 4:30 AM to 10 PM every day. The journey will take about 1.5 hours and costs around 6 - 9 EUR. You can check the bus schedule here.
You can also visit Novi Sad with an organized tour which will take you to Novi Sad and back as well as other towns in Northern Serbia like Sremski Karlovci without you having to worry about the logistics.
Day 50: Novi Sad, Serbia (Day Trip)
For our third day in Serbia, we are going to visit Novi Sad, the second-largest city in Serbia and by far, one of the most beautiful cities in the country with such a long and rich history, the city has often been referred to as Serbian Athens.
Novi Sad feels so different from Belgrade that you might even wonder if you are actually still in Serbia as you find yourself surrounded by all the Western-style buildings, Catholic cathedrals and churches, and a town square that feels more like Austria than Serbia, thanks to the far-reaching touch and influences of the Habsburgs.
During the 18th and 19th centuries, Novi Sad came under the control of the Habsburg Empire and became a center for education and the arts. The city's architecture and cultural heritage reflect this period of Austro-Hungarian influence, with many beautiful Baroque and Art Nouveau buildings still standing today.
One of the first places you should visit is Freedom Square, home to some of the most beautiful architecture in the city. The most prominent architecture of them all is the Name of Mary Catholic Church, which stands front and center, right in the middle of the square.
Surrounding the area, you will stunning buildings and attractions like the colorful City District Office, a line of beautiful Art Nouveau buildings, and the Monument of Svetozar Miletić where you will often find people as well as street performers hanging out, entertaining one another.
It is the liveliest part of the city which makes for a great place to start your exploration in Novi Sad. From the square, you can make your way north, past the Name of Mary Catholic Church, you will find the striking Vladicanski Dvor, a bishop's palace with an exceptionally vibrant exterior design, as well as Saint George's Cathedral, one of the most beautiful and revered Orthodox churches in the city.
If you are interested in the history of Novi Sad, you can also check out some of the museums here like the City Museum of Novi Sad and Muzej Vojvodine to learn more about the city through collections of artifacts, historical objects, and guided tours.
Be sure to make your way to Petrovaradin Fortress, and stroll around the fortress courtyard, checking out the panoramic view of Novi Sad, visiting the museum inside, and enjoying a nice meal while looking at the beautiful Danube River from one of the restaurants on that side of Novi Sad.
It is one of my favorite cities in Serbia with a more relaxing and chill vibe that is a welcomed change from all the bustlings in Belgrade. If you have a few days to spare in Serbia, I highly recommend you spend at least 2 nights here instead of visiting Novi Sad as a day trip so you can really give your undivided attention to appreciate the Novi Sad's incredible beauty.
Getting from Belgrade to Timisoara, Romania
To get from Belgrade to Timisoara, Romania, you will have to go with a shuttle service from Simplicity Operator which will pick you up from in front of Design Hotel Mr. President Garni in the city center.
They run around 5 - 6 trips per day starting at 7:20 AM to 8:20 PM. The whole journey should take about 3 hours and cost around 50 EUR per person. You will be sharing the car with other 2 passengers and the driver will take you across the border and drop you off at your hotel in Timisoara. You can book the shuttle service here.
For the Serbia-Romania border crossing, it is rather straightforward since you will be crossing the border with a regular car, not a bus. They might ask you a few preliminary questions before they let you go. All you have to do is get your passport stamped and that is it. Easy-peasy!
Day 51 - 52: Timisoara, Romania (2 nights)
We have finally arrived in Romania and our first stop is Timisoara, a beautiful city located in the northwestern part of Romania, a perfect place for an introduction to Transylvania. The city is known as "The City of Flowers" and "Revolutionary City" for the number of flower beds that are planted around the city as well as the movement that led to the revolution in 1989 that took place across Romania, respectively.
Our journey in Timisoara begins at Timisoara Orthodox Cathedral, the city's most beautiful and striking landmark with its soaring spires and distinct Neo-Moldavian architectural style that makes it feel like a castle straight out of a fairytale.
Its central spire is more than 90 meters high making it the second tallest church in Romania. The interior is also as impressive featuring an impressively tall ceiling with every inch of it as well as the walls and floors, entirely covered in these beautiful murals and decors blending different architectural styles into its own unique style.
Right in front of Timisoara Orthodox Cathedral, just across the road, you will find Victory Square, a large public park spanning around 50 meters (160 ft) across the center from the cathedral all the way to the National Theater.
Victory Square is best known for its large fountains, beautiful sculptures, and beautifully landscaped gardens, with neatly trimmed lawns, flowerbeds, and trees, creating a beautiful area for people to hang out. If you are there in the summer, the whole square will be covered in these colorful flowers that dotted along the garden, making it even prettier.
As you make your way north, you will stumble upon Liberty Square, another impressive public square surrounded by beautiful buildings from the 19th and early 20th centuries, with styles ranging from baroque to art nouveau to neo-classical.
Another impressive town square to check out in Timisoara is Union Square, the oldest town square in the city and probably my favorite out of all. The square features a vast public space with grass covering much of the square, dotted with statues, sculptures, and park benches, making it a great place to hang out in the evening.
One of the most beautiful buildings at Union Square you should definitely check out is Casa Bruck, a colorful historic house in this stunning Secession architectural style that resembles those impressive European-style houses you see in Western Europe.
Other notable buildings in the square are the Serbian Episcopal Church, an impressive church with a unique and beautiful facade, Timisoara Art Museum, a large museum housed in the elegant Baroque-style palace, and St George's Cathedral, the second largest Baroque religious building in the region.
If you want to learn more about the history of Romania during the revolution in 1989 and why Timisoara is often referred to as the Revolutionary City, there is no better place to be than Revolution Memorial Association Museum.
This museum consists of several exhibitions that cover the events of December 1989 both at the national level (highlight the fights that took place in the main Romanian cities) and at the international level (the reaction in former communist countries in Eastern Europe) with a collection of photos, films, and stories you can explore.
One of my favorite museums in Timisoara is Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist or the Communist Consumer Museum, located in an old building in the basement of a vintage bar that exhibits various objects and products that were available to consumers during the Communist era in Romania.
The museum's collection includes household appliances, electronics, toys, clothing, and food items, all of which were produced and sold during the Communist regime in Romania. These items are divided and categorized into rooms that retained their function the way it was during the communist era.
The purpose of the museum is to give us a glimpse into the everyday life of Romanians during the Communist period, as well as to provide a nostalgic experience for those who lived through it. It is one of the most interesting places to visit in Timisoara and the best part is, the museum is completely free to enter which makes visiting the museum a no-brainer.
Other tourist attractions you should check out while you are here are Botanic Park, a beautiful green space that offers a variety of walking trails you can explore, Roses Park, the largest rose park in Europe with over 6000 rose bushes, and so much more.
After a day well spent in Timisoara, you can spend some time strolling around Victory Square at night and find a nice place bar to enjoy or you can retreat for the night and prepare for our journey to Sibiu the next day.
Getting from Timisoara to Sibiu
From Timisoara to Sibiu, there are around 5 buses running per day from 6:30 AM to 11 PM. I highly recommend you catch the 6:55 AM bus operated by RazTravel. They are a shuttle service company so you will be traveling with a minivan shared with 4 - 5 other people.
They will pick you up at the OMV Petrol Station near the train station and you will be in Sibiu in about 4 hours. The bus should be around 130 RON or 26 EUR per person and you can get the ticket online here.
Day 53 - 54: Sibiu, Romania (3 nights)
Known as one of the most beautiful cities in Romania, Sibiu is one of my favorite cities in Transylvania with its incredible medieval old town that I can not get bored of exploring, all the beautiful town squares, cathedrals, and churches, that came straight out of a fairytale, and a ton of opportunities for day trips to dive deep into the beautiful Transylvania.
First and foremost, we are going to explore the famous medieval old town of Sibiu. There are 2 sections of Sibiu's Old Town, the Upper Town, and the Lower Town and we are going to start our journey in the Upper Town. There are several ways you can get to the Upper Town, but one of the best ways is to enter it from the Stairs Passage.
The stunning medieval architecture of the Old Town will come into view as you walk up the passageway to the Upper Town. You will be able to appreciate just how beautiful Sibiu is from the outside as you walk up the stairs. Once you arrive at the top, you will also be able to appreciate the incredible view over Sibiu Lower Town.
One of the first iconic landmarks you will encounter in the Upper Town is Saint Mary Evangelical Cathedral, a beautiful massive Gothic-style church with access to its bell tower, allowing you to witness the incredible views of Sibiu from above.
With its massive 73.34 m high steeple, it is one of the highest points you can get to in Sibiu which makes for a great vantage point to appreciate just how beautiful Sibiu and the surrounding landscapes are.
To get to the top, you will have to climb around 200 steps which can take about 10 minutes. It is quite a workout but the moment you arrive and see the spanning panoramic views you get from the viewpoint, all that tiredness will magically evaporate away, and leave you with the feeling of awe instead.
After you are done with Saint Mary Evangelical Cathedral, you can check out the 2 main town squares in Sibiu, the Small Square, one of the oldest and most picturesque town squares in the city, surrounded by beautiful 15th Century buildings you can explore, and the Large Square, the main town square where all the events like concerts and a Christmas market often take place in.
There are plenty of restaurants and cafes around these 2 town squares so if you are looking for a nice romantic spot to have dinner, you should have no trouble finding a place to sit and take in the beautiful medieval surroundings at night.
While you explore Sibiu, be sure to drop by the Holy Trinity Cathedral, one of the largest Orthodox churches in Romania and one of the most beautiful cathedrals out of all, the Holy Trinity Roman Catholic Church, a beautiful Baroque-style church, and the Bridge of Lies, a structure with legends that are as interesting as its name.
Before we call it a day, be sure to spend some time and get lost in the Lower Town and track down the famous houses with eyes, that seem to always be judging your every move from the moment you arrive in the city.
What are the houses of eyes you asked? Well, it is exactly what its name suggested. Due to the way the ventilations were designed back in the day, most of the houses in Sibiu (or in Transylvania for that matter), often have these small window-like openings in their roofs in the shape of sleazy, squinting eyes, looking out over the city, which I think is really unique and cool.
For the best restaurant in Sibiu to try local Romanian cuisine, I highly recommend the Grand Plaza Restaurant, a nice family-run restaurant that serves a wide selection of traditional Romanian dishes like Sarmale and Tochitura as well as the Transylvanian take on German dishes like schnitzel and grilled sausages, all of which are home-cooked, served in big portions, and priced affordably with many dishes costing only around 5 - 6 EUR.
Once you are full and happy, we can retreat for the night and prepare for the day trip we are going to take the next day to Corvin Castle and Alba Iulia. Be sure to book the tour ahead of time to secure a spot.
Getting from Sibiu to Corvin Castle and Alba Iulia
For this journey, we are going to have to rely on an organized tour since they are both far apart from one another and there is no easy way to get there with public transportation. I highly recommend you go on this organized tour. The tour will take you to these 2 places and you will have around 2 hours to roam freely at each place.
Day 55: Corvin Castle and Alba Iulia, Romania (Day Trip)
For the second day in Sibiu, we are going to go on a day trip and visit Corvin Castle and Alba Iulia, some of the most beautiful castles and fortifications you will see in Romania, especially Corvin Castle which is considered to be the largest and most impressive Gothic castle in the country.
Both Corvin Castle and Alba Iulia are located around 130 km away and the best way to visit these 2 places in one day is to go on an organized tour which will pick you up from your hotel in Sibiu, take you to both places on an 8-hour trip before you are dropped back off at your hotel in Sibiu.
The first place you will be visiting is the Corvin Castle, a castle built in the 14th century by John Hunyadi, a Hungarian military leader and governor of Transylvania. It was later expanded and renovated by his son, Matthias Corvinus, who turned it into a luxurious residence fit for a king.
The castle's exterior is characterized by its imposing towers, high walls, and decorative battlements while its interior features beautiful grand halls, elegant chambers, and ornate staircases, as well as a chapel and a dungeon you can explore.
Inside the castle, you can walk around its chambers, visit the grand Knight's Hall that was used for banquets and receptions, and a torture chamber, where prisoners were subjected to gruesome punishments, with the depiction, and gruesome descriptions of the terrible practice that were rather common at the time.
You can also walk around its towers, climb up to the top of the castle, and enjoy the view of the surrounding areas. While you can spend about an hour or 2 in the castle, there is still much renovation work to be done here to make it compete with other castles in Romania. Much of the castle courtyard was under renovation still when I was there and the locals don't seem to expect it to finish any time soon which is a shame.
That said, the exterior of the castle is incredibly well-preserved and really captures the grandeur of the castle and its status very well. It is one of the highlights of visiting Corvin Castle, and you should spend some time and walk around the castle to appreciate its beauty.
It should take you no more than 2 hours to explore the castle before you will be taken to Alba Iulia, an old fortified medieval town known for its rich history, cultural heritage, and impressive fortifications, unlike anything you've seen before.
The city's most famous landmark is the Alba Carolina Fortress, a massive star-shaped citadel that was built in the 18th century on the site of a Roman castrum. The fortress is surrounded by high walls, moats, and bastions, and it houses a number of historical buildings and monuments, including the Coronation Cathedral, where Romanian kings were crowned in the 19th and early 20th centuries.
I really enjoyed exploring Alba Iulia and walking around its charming historic center, navigating its narrow cobblestone streets, checking out beautiful pastel-colored buildings, and indulging myself in lively cafes and restaurants.
You will have around 2 hours to explore the town which should be enough to cover the whole fortress ground and check out places like the Union Museum, the beautiful City Gate, the view from Horea, Closca and Crisan Obelisk, and so much more.
I didn't expect to enjoy the city this much as my main goal was to see Corvin Castle so I was pretty much caught by surprise at how beautiful Alba Iulia is. I can not recommend this tour enough. After you are done at Alba Iulia, you will then be taken back to Sibiu and you can spend the rest of the night preparing for your journey to the Sighisoara the next day.
Getting from Sibiu to Sighisoara
From Sibiu to Sighisoara, there are around 3 direct trains you can take from Sibiu Train Station between 12:15 PM to 7:33 PM. The journey should take about 2.5 hours and cost around 16 RON or 3 EUR per person. You can check the train schedule online here.
Day 56 - 57: Sighisoara, Romania (2 nights)
And now we have arrived in Sighisoara, one of the most well-preserved medieval towns in Transylvania known for its colorful cobblestone street, its impressive clock tower, and many MANY medieval structures scattered across the hilltop Citadel, which will steal your heart the moment you step foot inside its fortified old town.
First and foremost, we are going to visit Sighisoara's Clock Tower, the crowned jewel of Sighisoara. Standing right at the center of Sighisoara Citadel, marking its entrance, the clock tower is one of the most iconic and prominent landmarks in the city. In fact, it is one of the main reasons why I decided to check out Sighisoara in the first place.
The clock tower stands at a height of 64 meters and is easily recognizable by its green copper dome roof, pointed turrets, and clock face with Roman numerals, which you can see from across the city.
You can get inside the tower and check out the 3-level city museum inside, each with its own unique feature. The ground floor was once used as a prison and now houses a collection of medieval weapons and armor.
On the top level, you will find the Bell Room, which houses the tower's original bell, dating back to the 17th century. You can also see the tower's clock mechanism and weights as well as walk onto its balcony and enjoy the sweeping view of Sighisoara from above.
After you are done wat the clock tower, you can then proceed on to Piața Cetății, or Citadel Square, a beautiful square surrounded by some of the most colorful medieval buildings and you can see some of the most iconic landmarks in Sighisoara from here like the Clock Tower and even the church on the Hill we will be visiting later.
The square is surrounded by some of the most colorful medieval buildings and you can see some of the most iconic landmarks in Sighisoara from here like the Clock Tower and even the church on the Hill we will be visiting next. Be sure to spend some time and get lost in its crisscrossing street and track down some of the incredible watchtowers that are scattered throughout the old town.
To get to the church on the hill, you are going to have to walk through the Covered Stairway, a 17th-century stairway that was built for students to use to allow them to walk from the lower part of the citadel to the upper part, where a school and a church are located.
The stairway is covered by a vaulted roof, which protects pedestrians from the elements and provides a striking visual contrast with the surrounding buildings. The roof is supported by arches and columns, which add to the staircase's structural stability and aesthetic appeal.
You can climb the 175 steps to reach the top of Citadel Hill and explore its many historic sites, including all the old watchtowers along the fortification walls and the Church on the Hill, and the Saxon Cemetery.
The highlight here is the Church on the Hill, which was built in the 14th Century in the imposing Gothic style featuring tall and pointed arches from the outside, soaring vaulted ceilings, and intricate stone carvings on the inside.
The church also houses a small museum that showcases artifacts and objects from the church's history, as well as the history of the town and its people. Although you have to pay to get inside, which is rather uncommon for a church. The entrance fee is 2 EUR and you will get to appreciate its unique interior and all its stone and wooden sculptures inside.
Other notable places to visit in Sighisoara are Sighisoara City Hall, a historic building built in the 14th century as a courthouse with its stunning exterior, the Holy Trinity Church, a splendid Orthodox church standing right on the picturesque bank of Crisul Alb River, and so much more.
After spending the entire day exploring Sighisoara, you can spend the rest of the evening relaxing at the beautiful Umbrella Street or Octavian Goga Street, a beautiful street decorated with colorful umbrella art installations that covered much of the street and are lined on both sides, you will find all kinds of cafes and restaurants you can enjoy before you retreat for the night.
Getting from Sighisoara to Brasov
From Sighisoara to Brasov, you should be able to take one of the 5 direct trains that connect the 2 cities together between 7 AM and 3:37 PM from Sighisoara Train Station and you will arrive in Brasov in about 3 to 4 hours. The journey should cost about 22 RON per person. You can check the train schedule here.
Due to how far Brasov train station is from the city center, you are going to have to catch a taxi somewhere in front of the train station but do not go with the people approaching you. They will charge you 10 times to actual price. They were trying to charge me 70 RON for a 3 km trip. I just walked to the main road and flagged one for 10 RON. Do not spend any more than 15 RON for the trip to the city center.
Day 58 - 59: Brasov, Romania (3 nights)
Next up, we visit Brasov, the gateway city to Transylvania and in my opinion, one of the most beautiful cities in the country that is steeped in history, surrounded by beautiful architecture, and offers a ton of opportunities to go on day trips and explore all the famous castles in the area, one of which is famously known as Dracula Castle.
But before all that, we are going to spend our first day here exploring all the tourist attractions in town starting with a visit to the Council Square, a large, open-air public square that has been a central meeting place for people here for centuries. The square is surrounded by some of the most beautiful historical buildings and colorful Baroque-style houses in town which make for a great place to begin our exploration.
The most prominent feature of the Council Square is the Old Town Hall, which dominates the eastern side of the square. The building has striking Gothic-style architecture with a tall clock tower with a beautiful water fountain adjacent to it.
The Council Square is also surrounded by numerous cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops, making it a great place to hang out and have lunch or dinner. Some of my favorite restaurants are located at the square like La Ceaun, one of the best places to try Romanian cuisine. which adds to the vibrant atmosphere of the place.
The square is also connected to Republic Street, a long pedestrian street lined with all kinds of shops, cafes, and restaurants, making it a great place to stroll around at.
Located right next to Council Square, you will find the Black Church, one of the most impressive Gothic-style churches you will see in Eastern Europe and one of the most famous landmarks of Brasov.
One of the most striking features of the Black Church is its impressive pipe organ, which is one of the largest in Europe. It has over 4,000 pipes and was built in 1839 by Friedrich Wilhelm Hesse, a famous German organ builder. The organ is still in use even today.
If you are looking for a great viewpoint of Brasov that is easily accessible on foot straight from Brasov's Old Town, right on the hillside, north of the Old Town, you will find 2 towers, the Black Tower and the White Tower.
Both towers do provide a nice view over the city but personally, I prefer the Black Tower as I found the view from there to be a bit better as the tower provides a perfect unobstructed view of the Brasov cityscape with a clear view of the Black Church and the mountains behind it.
Of course, you can't come all the way to Brasov and not check out Sforii Street, one of the narrowest streets in Europe with a width that ranges from just 1.2 to 1.5 meters, and walk through building blocks like a firefighter which is what the passage was originally built for.
While you explore Brasov, you should also check out Weavers Bastion or Bastionul Ţesătorilor, a beautiful 15th-century well-preserved bastion fortress that house a medieval museum you can check out and learn more about the city.
The museum features exhibits and displays that showcase the evolution of Brasov's defenses, as well as the weapons and equipment used by soldiers and guards in the past. There is also an impressive model of Brasov from 1896 which should give you a glimpse of how expansive the city was back then.
For an incredible sunset over the city, you can't go wrong with Belvedere Tampa, an observation deck located at the top of Tampa Mountain, just east of Brasov, offering an incredible sweeping view of Brasov and its surroundings from above.
To get up there, you can either take the cable car from Telecabina Tampa you can walk straight from the city center. The cable car should take about 2 minutes to get you to the top and cost around 15 RON one way or 25 RON for a roundtrip ticket. The cable car operates from 9 AM to 6 PM every day except on Mondays. The cut-off time to go up is 5 PM and the cut-off time to go down is 6 PM so be sure to plan accordingly.
You can also hike all the way to the top in about 45 minutes to an hour along the 2.4 km hiking trail that snakes its way up to the top of Tampa Mountain. The trail begins at this trailhead located not too far from the cable car station.
Once you are done, you can come back down to the Council Square and enjoy a much-needed delicious dinner at La Ceaun, one of my favorite Romanian restaurants in Brasov. They serve a wide variety of delicious sizzling local dishes straight from the oven that you can try to get a taste of which makes Romanian cuisine one of the best cuisines in the Balkans.
Some of the local dishes available here are dishes like mixed meat stew with polenta, smoked pork knuckle, and my favorite of all, lamb pastrami with garlic sauce and polenta. I highly recommend you order the lamb pastrami dish for your first dish and then you can try other menus when you will eventually come back for more 😉. Once you are full, you can retreat for the day and prepare for a day trip the next day as we will be visiting Peles Castle, Bran Castle (Dracula Castle), and more.
Getting from Brasov to Peles Castle, Bran Castle, and Rasnov Citadel
For this journey, we are going to have to rely on an organized tour since they are far apart from one another and there is no easy way to get there by public transportation. I highly recommend you go on this organized tour. I had a great experience with them.
Day 60: Peles Castle, Bran Castle, and Rasnov Citadel, Romania (Day Trip)
After seeing all the tourist attractions in Brasov, it is time to go on an organized day trip and explore all the beautiful tourist attractions around Brasov starting off with the most impressive one of all, Peles Castle, one of the most beautiful and well-preserved castles in Europe.
Nestled in the beautiful Carpathian Mountains, Peles Castle is a stunning castle built in the late 19th century as the summer residence of King Carol I of Romania who wanted to recreate the Bavarian mountains of Germany where he is originally from in Transylvania.
The castle's architecture is a blend of several styles, including Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance. Its exterior is adorned with wooden frames, intricate carvings, and decorative motifs, that resemble those beautiful castles you see in Germany and Austria.
If you think the castle looks amazing from the outside, wait until you see the inside! The castle boasts over 170 rooms, each with its own unique style and character. Some of the rooms are all lavishly decorated with wooden sculptures, ornaments, and furniture with incredible craftsmanship, the like you can't find anywhere else in Romania.
The most impressive rooms include the Grand Armory, which houses an extensive collection of medieval weapons, the Music Room with its impressive ceiling painting, the Florentine Room with its exquisite Italian Renaissance decorations, and the Imperial Suite which was used by King Carol I and his wife Queen Elisabeth.
After about 2 hours exploring Peles Castle, you will then be taken to the famous Bran Castle, also known as "Dracula's Castle" because it is associated with the legendary vampire Count Dracula, who is said to have inspired Bram Stoker's famous novel.
While Peles Castle went full-blown extravagance with its decors, Bran Castle is a little more discrete with small rooms, low ceilings, and simple furniture, giving you a more homely feel to it, which I think is pretty cool.
Here, your guide will explain the history of the castle, who Vlad, the Impaler was, and how he became the inspiration for Dracula in great detail as you walk from room to room while making your way to the top of the castle.
While you ascend the castle up to one of its watchtowers, you will be able to appreciate the castle's medieval courtyard from above as well as the incredible view of the Carpathian Mountains surrounding it.
You should have ample time at Bran Castle to explore the castle and its surrounding area with this organized tour and you will then be taken to Bran Chalet, a local restaurant/guesthouse nearby to try out some of the finest Romanian cuisine out there before you are taken to the last destination of the itinerary, Rasnov Citadel.
Last but not least, you are going to visit Rasnov Citadel, a medieval fortress located near the town of Rasnov that offers an incredible view over the surrounding mountainous landscape of the Carpathians, where you will be watching the sunset.
The citadel is still under renovation but you can still walk around the castle, check out the incredible view from its walls, and witness the incredible sunset over the rolling landscapes of Transylvania. It doesn't get any better than this.
The whole tour should take around 12 hours and you will be dropped off at the Council Square in Brasov where you can then spend the night and enjoy a little bit of nightlife or you can retreat for the night and prepare for your next journey to Bucharest.
Getting from Brasov to Bucharest
From Brasov to Bucharest, you can take the train from Brasov Train Station to Bucharest and it should take about 3 hours and cost around 67 RON per person. The train runs between 3:30 AM to 8:30 PM almost every 20 minutes so you should have no trouble catching one. You can check the train schedule here.
Day 61 - 62: Bucharest, Romania (2 nights)
And we have finally arrived at the end of our itinerary, where we will be exploring Bucharest, the capital city of Romania, home to some of the most iconic landmarks in the Balkans. One of the first places I recommend you check out is the Palace of Parliament, a massive government building that is so big and heavy, it is actually sinking to the ground around 6 mm (0.24 in) each year.
As you can probably guess from the massive scale and over-the-top approach to the whole thing, the construction of the Palace of Parliament began in 1984, during the Communist regime of Nicolae Ceaușescu.
Covering more than 330,000 square meters and standing 84 meters tall, the structure that you stand before is considered the second-largest administrative building in the entire world, second only to the Pentagon.
Although from the outside, it may seem like the Palace is impenetrable, but you can go inside via an organized walking tour to see its more than 3,000 rooms, spanning over 12 stories, including four underground levels.
Among all the brutalist buildings around Bucharest, you will still find a pocket of history in Bucharest's Old Town, a charming historical district located in the heart of the city, that thankfully survived Nicolae Ceaușescu's transformation of the city.
The area is a beautiful mix of old and new, with narrow cobbled streets and historic buildings standing alongside modern cafes and boutiques. The streets are lined with stunning Neoclassical and Art Nouveau buildings that are adorned with intricate details and ornate balconies, waiting for you to explore.
There are also several notable attractions in the Old Town that you should check out like Cărturești Carusel, one of the most impressive bookstores in Romania, a true haven for book lovers and for those who are looking for a beautiful unique looking place to take photos.
Another attraction in the old town you should check out is Stavropoleos Monastery Church, a beautiful monastery right in the heart of the city, surrounded by modern buildings, that provide a nice and quiet spot for us to take a break from the bustling of the capital and find solitude.
If you are interested in learning about the history of Bucharest as well as other aspects of the country, there are a ton of museums you can choose from the Bucharest that can occupy you for days. There are several great museums you can check out in Bucharest like the National Museum of Art, a world-class art museum that houses one of the most extensive collections of Romanian art in the world.
For the history buff out there, you have to check out the National Museum of Romanian History, another fascinating museum with a unique insight into Romania's rich and complex history, or Dimitrie Gusti National Village Museum, an open-air museum that showcases the rich cultural heritage of Romania featuring over 300 traditional buildings that have been relocated from all over Romania to the park. There are plenty of museums here to occupy you for days.
Other notable tourist attractions in Bucharest you should check out are Macca-Vilacrosse Passage, a beautiful shopping arcade similar to the one in Milan but on a much smaller scale, the Palace of the Deposits and Consignments, an incredible building with a stunning neoclassical facade, Fabrica Club, a great place to hang out at night, and so much more.
After sundown, I highly recommend you check out Union Park, a beautiful spacious park located right in the middle of the city, next to the long boulevard that goes straight to the Palace of Parliament, home to incredible fountains of Bucharest, and the place we will be visiting next.
The centerpiece of Union Park is its stunning fountain, which is located at the intersection of two of the park's main walking paths. It is over 25 meters tall and features several tiers of water jets that create an impressive display of water and light at night in the summer months, so be sure to check it out before we end the day thus completing our epic 2-month itinerary around the Balkans!
When to Visit the Balkans?
Since we will be traveling through 9 countries across the peninsula, we will be experiencing a variety of climates and environments throughout our trip so it is essential that we pick the best time to begin our journey that aligns best with the season.
So the best time to begin this itinerary is in mid-May when the weather is not excessively hot and the crowds are not overwhelmingly large. As Croatia is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the area, beginning the itinerary in May will provide us with the opportunity to appreciate the country without the hustle and bustle of the summer crowd, while also having reasonably priced accommodations to choose from.
As we make our way across the peninsula, we will be visiting countries that are not as touristy as Croatia so we should be fine with the tourist crowds as we approach the summer months.
By the time we arrive in Romania, our last destination for this itinerary, in mid-July the European peak season should be in full swing and you will be able to enjoy all the cool summer events and concerts that you might stumble upon as you make your way across the peninsula.
I believe this is the best time to do this itinerary but of course, you can also begin this journey in June, July, or even as late as September and October if you do not mind the occasionally cold weather towards the end of the trip. As long as you do not travel during the winter months, you should be able to follow this itinerary to the T.
How to Get to the Balkans?
For this itinerary, we begin our journey in Zadar, Croatia so you can either fly directly to Zadar or you can fly to Zagreb, the capital city of Croatia and take another domestic flight to Zadar to begin our journey.
From the US, you can fly to Zadar via Austrian Airlines which often leaves from big cities like New York or LA, and it should take about 14 hours including transit time in Vienna.
From Europe, you can find plenty of direct flights flying from major European hubs to Zadar International Airport (ZAD) via low-cost airlines like Ryanair and EasyJet that will take you to Zadar in no more than 3 hours.
From Asia, you can fly to Zadar with Austrian Airlines from any big cities in the region as well and it should take you about 19 hours including transit time in Vienna before you arrive in Croatia.
To find a cheap flight to Croatia, I would recommend you use Skyscanner or Expedia to look for the cheapest route and schedule so you can compare and pick the best one.
How to Get Around the Balkans?
By Buses: For this trip, we are going to be relying on buses for the most part to get around the Balkans affordably. The one thing to keep in mind is that not all countries have online bookings so you might have to go to the bus station and buy the ticket yourself but most should have a bus schedule online you can consult. Here are all the bus schedules and websites you can rely on for each country:
- Croatia: Flixbus or Omio
- Bosnia: 12Go.co
- Montenegro: 12Go.co and via organized tours
- Albania: Unfortunately, there are no reliable online sources for buses in Albania, but you can check a rough schedule of buses leaving from Tirana here: Tirana Bus Schedule
- Kosovo: BalkanViator (If you can't access it at home, try a VPN. I'm not sure why that is the case, but I can access it when I am in Europe but not in Asia).
- North Macedonia: 12Go.co
- Bulgaria: 12Go.co
- Serbia: Omio
- Romania: Autogari.ro
By Trains: We will also be using a little bit of trains in Bulgaria and Romania to go on day trips and navigate a more remote region like Transylvania in Romania. They are affordable and easily accessible although they aren't known for being punctual, but since we won't be taking any multi-leg train trips, it should be fine. Here are the websites for train schedules and online booking:
- Bulgaria: Bulgaria's Official Train Website
- Romania: Romania's Official Train Website
By Tours: We will also be relying on organized tours to get to the more remote places in the Balkans. There are 2 portals you can browse through for tours and day trips. I found GetYourGuide to best in Croatia, Montenegro, Kosovo, and Bulgaria whereas Viator works best in Bosnia, North Macedonia, Serbia, and Romania, so be sure to check them out if you are looking for day trips.
By Rental Cars: I wouldn't recommend renting a car since you will have to drive back to where you got the car from to return it which is not ideal for this itinerary. Plus, I have provided all the information you need to get around the Balkans with public transportation so you should be able to do it without your own vehicles. If you insist on renting one, you can hit the link below:
Visa for the Balkans?
If you are like me who holds a pretty terrible passport (Thai Passport), you are going to have to get a Schengen Visa for your trip to Croatia since Croatia is now part of the Schengen Zone and you are going to have to apply for it in your home country at Croatia Embassy way in advance before your trip.
Schengen Visa comes with 2 durations, the duration you can stay within the Schengen Zone, which in this case includes your time in Croatia only, and the validity of the visa which we are going to have to rely on for all the other countries outside the Schengen Zone.
You see, all the countries we will be visiting except Croatia are not part of the Schengen Zone so only apply for our journey in Croatia but do not apply to the other 8 countries we are visiting, but since they all are part of the EU, we can utilize the Schengen Visa we have to get into these countries without affecting the duration you can stay in the Schengen Zone AS LONG AS the visa is still valid.
This means that if you get the Schengen Visa that comes with 90 days duration and an expiry date of 180 days from the issue date, you will be able to spend 90 days inside the Schengen countries while you can spend the rest of your time in these EU countries outside the Schengen Zone until your visa expires even if you have already utilized the 90 days duration.
For this itinerary, you are going to spend 2 weeks in Croatia and 1.5 months in EU countries outside of the Schengen Zone, so as long as you have a visa with more than 15 days of duration and a visa expiring date of more than 60 days from the issue date, you should be able to travel around the Balkans just fine. Also, make sure you get the multi-entry Schengen Visa since this is required for the visa to be valid for EU countries outside the Schengen Zone.
The trick to getting a multi-entry visa with a 2 - 3 months expiry date is to provide the embassy with this exact itinerary. Tell them, you are planning to start your trip in Croatia and travel around the Balkans for 2 months and if all the documents like flights and bookings all checked out, they should issue you with a multi-entry Schengen Visa that comes with at least 20 days of duration and a 2+ months validity, exactly what you need to pull this trip off.
How Much Money Do I Need for 2 months in the Balkans?
From this 2 months itinerary, we can calculate approximately how much money you will be spending here as follows:
Accommodation: For 61 nights in the Balkans, you can expect to pay around 915 EUR for accommodation considering you are staying in budget guesthouses or hostels.
Food: For 60 days, 3 meals a day in the Balkans, you can expect to pay around 1080 EUR for food considering you eat out every day. It will be significantly cheaper if you buy your own groceries and cook yourself instead.
Transportation: For this itinerary, you can expect to pay around 500 EUR for buses and trains we are going to use to get around the Balkans.
Activities: Depending on how much you want to do in the Balkans, you can expect to pay approximately 661 EUR for all the day trips and entrance fees to tourist attractions we are going to have to pay as we explore the Balkans.
Total Budget for 2 months in the Balkans: 3,146 EUR
Is it Safe in the Balkans?
I found the Balkans to be extremely safe for solo travelers despite what people may have told you about the region. I spent over 2 months traveling all over the Balkans independently and I found the people here to be extremely friendly and I didn't experience anything out of the ordinary. In fact, I feel safer here than in many crowded in Germany!
That said, it is always a good idea to exercise precautions by not leaving your belongings unattended, especially when in crowded places like bus or train stations, and ALWAYS keep an eye out for your belongings at all times.
Keep your hands in your pockets when entering or exiting crowded places to secure your phone and wallet. Other than that, you should be perfectly fine traveling around the Balkans independently.
Which tourist SIM card is best for The Balkans?
Since we will be visiting 9 countries, it can be difficult to stay connected while you travel and the best way to do that for me was to use esims that I buy prior to arriving in each country.
If you have a smartphone that supports esims, I highly recommend you take a look at this regional Eurolink esim. They have a variety of data packages, price points, and durations for you to choose from.
The setup is fast and instant and you can buy it prior to your trip so you don't have to scramble your way to get one at the airport after a long flight. The data speed is also equivalent to what you get with a local sim card with 4G speed across the entire country.
I used the regional Eurolink esim for most of my trip in the Balkans and I found them to work very well in Croatia, Montenegro, Serbia, Bulgaria, and Romania.
The regional esim doesn't work in Albania, North Macedonia, Bosnia, and Kosovo since these countries are not included within the plan so you are going to have to buy them separately. Make sure you buy them prior to your arrival to that country so you can have a consistent connection as you travel across borders.
For more information on esims in the Balkans, click here: Check Balkans's Available eSim.
What to Pack for the Balkans?
As you may already know, I am an advocate of light traveling, and indeed, packing light for a journey like this is a unique art form. Here are some packing tips for your upcoming trip to Balkans:
- Walking/Hiking Shoes: With all the walking and possible hiking during your travel, a comfortable pair of shoes is a must. I recommend the Timberland 3-Eye Classic Boat Shoes that are my go-to pair for long strolls and hikes.
- Breathable Shirts: Given the potential for hot weather, pack a few breathable shirts for your outdoor adventures.
- Shorts/Jeans: Anticipate lots of walking during your travels? Be sure to pack some breathable shorts and a pair of Levi's jeans for when the weather cools. For women, leggings are excellent for both hot and cold climates, so consider packing some as well.
- Fleece Jacket: For colder weather, layering is the key, and a fleece jacket makes an excellent insulating layer. I recommend the Columbia Steens Mountain Fleece (for women).
- Outer Shell Jacket: An outer shell jacket is great for windy or rainy conditions. I highly recommend the Columbia Watertight Jacket (for women). It's lightweight, breathable, and even comes in a cool orange color.
- Microfiber Towel: A Microfiber towel is the ideal backpacker's towel due to its lightness, quick drying, and compressibility.
- Camera: You should also pack a good camera for your trip so that you can capture all the beautiful experiences you might have. I recommend the Sony a7R V camera together with the Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM II lens, which is probably the highest-performance camera and lens combination you can get right now.
- Power Bank: Keep your electronics charged on the go with a 20,000+ mAh Power Bank.
- Water Bottle: The Hydro Flask Trail Water Bottle is a great insulated water bottle to have with you in cities or on hiking trails. It is lightweight and can keep your water cold or warm for more than 12 hours. It's a total game-changer.
- Universal Adapter: You'll need just one universal adapter to plug in your electronics in any country you visit.
- Packing Cubes: Packing Cubes will help you save space in your backpack and keep all your belongings organized.
- Daypack: The Langly Alpha Globetrotter is my go-to everyday camera backpack. It's large enough to carry all my travel gear, and it comes with plenty of slots and pouches. Plus, it's stylish as hell!
- Large Backpack: You will need a large backpack to carry all of your stuff. I recommend the Osprey Atmos AG 65L backpack. With excellent weight distribution and a lifetime guarantee, you can't go wrong with Osprey.
For more information on what I pack in my backpack for this trip, check out: My Packing List: 60 Travel Essentials.
Now that we have all the information we need, it's time to start planning your trip! Here are some resources to help you get going:
Are you planning to travel independently? Be sure to check out my guide on How To Plan A Backpacking Trip here.
Further Reading for the Balkans
- Want to plan a trip to the Balkans, but not sure where to go? Here is the 31 Most Beautiful Places to Visit in the Balkans.
- For a complete travel guide to Croatia, check out: 2 Weeks Backpacking Croatia Itinerary.
- Want to travel to Bosnia and Herzegovina but not sure where to begin? Check out 6 Days Backpacking Bosnia And Herzegovina Itinerary.
- If you love mountains, you are going to love Montenegro. Here is the ultimate 4-day backpacking Montenegro itinerary.
- Out of all the countries in the Balkans, Albania is my favorite and a place you should definitely visit. Be sure to check out: 2 Weeks Albania Itinerary.
- If you want to go off the beaten path in the Balkans, Kosovo is where it's at. Check out: 7 Days Backpacking Kosovo Itinerary.
- North Macedonia is more interesting than you think! Here is a 5-day Backpacking North Macedonia Itinerary.
- For a complete travel guide to Bulgaria, check out: 5 Days Backpacking Bulgaria Itinerary.
- If you like parties and nightlife, Serbia is hard to beat. Here is a 3-day Backpacking Serbia Itinerary.
- Romania is unlike any country in the Balkans. To see why, be sure to check out: 2 Weeks Backpacking Romania Itinerary.
- Not convinced by my words? Here are 125 photos that will inspire you to visit Europe.
- To see all the articles about the Balkans, visit the Balkans Travel Guide page.
- Traveling in Europe can be cheap, really cheap. These are the 12 Cheap European Countries to Visit.
- Looking for more travel guides for Europe? You can find more on my Europe Travel Guide page.
- Or if you want to explore other regions in Europe, check out our Eastern Europe Travel Guide, Western Europe Travel Guide, Southern Europe Travel Guide, or Central Europe Travel Guide pages.
- For more of my travel guides like this, visit my Destinations page.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links.
2 Comments
I just wanted to say thank you for your itinerary. I just spent the last 3 months travelling around the Balkans following your Blog sometimes exactly and sometimes going astray (which didn't always work out haha). I just finished in serbia (I went bulgaria -> Romania -> serbia to end up outside of schengen zone) and it now feels weird to close this website after looking at it nearly everyday for the beginning of the year. So thanks again and hopefully Ill be back on your website again soon for another big trip. From Klara
Thank you for the comments, Klara! I appreciate it very much! I'm glad you found this guide useful and very happy to see you enjoyed the place! The Balkan is really something else isn't it? Hope you can make another big trip soon! Safe travels!