"I cannot believe I am in Albania" is a sentence I can't stop saying as I hiked along the popular Theth-Valbone hiking trail in the middle of the Albanian Alps.
When one thinks of Albania as a travel destination, it is hard to imagine that a place like the Albanian Alps exists. The mountains surrounding the area of Northern Albania almost resemble those of the Rockies or the Italian Alps.
Due to its stunning snowy peaks, beautiful valleys, and breathtaking canyon, the Albanian Alps are one of the highlights for visiting Albania. They are also a hiking haven where you will find a ton of hiking trails, short and long, for you to escape into the wilderness.
One of the most popular hiking trails in the Albanian Alps is the Theth-Valbona trail, which will take you from Theth to Valbona mountain towns or vice versa, via the Valbona Pass that overlooks both valleys.
The Theth-Valbona hike is one of the most beautiful hikes you can do in the region, and within this guide, I will explain to you in detail how you can hike the Theth-Valbona trail independently. I will also cover which side trips to do, where to stay, how many days to spend, and everything you need to know before hiking in the Albanian Alps.
Without further ado, let's begin with the Theth-Valbona hiking trails and itinerary map.
The Albanian Alps Hiking Trails and Itinerary Map
Quick Summary
| 🌤️ Best time: | June-September |
| 🚘 Get around: | Hiking |
| 🕓 Time to spend: | 3 days |
| 🚶♂️ Difficulty: | Moderate |
| 💰 Cost: | 25,000 - 34,000 LEK |
Which Way to Hike: Theth to Valbona or Valbona to Theth?
I got so confused when I was in Shkodra planning the trip, as there was a lot of mixed information out there. After doing the hike myself, I can totally say that it doesn't matter. They are both pretty much the same.
My suggestion is to go whichever way you find yourself going. If you find a nice group of friends to do the hike with, go with whichever group chooses. If your hostel recommended doing one way and there are many people going that way, go with them. The hike is more fun with people, especially if you get stuck in the mountain due to rain as I did.
That said, if you want to choose the most optimal ways for you, there are a few things to consider:
One, there are more hiking trails to do in Theth. So, if you are the type of hiker who prefers doing small hikes before doing a longer hike, go from Theth to Valbona.
Secondly, the Theth-Valbona hike levels are not evenly distributed. From Theth to Valbona Pass, it is a 3-hour steep climb straight up, which is perfect for those who like to do the hard part first when they have the energy and relax for the rest of the trail.
But if you are coming from Valbona to Valbona Pass, it is a long but gradual climb of around 4.5 hours, which is perfect for those who like to go slowly and steadily.
Personally, I prefer doing small hikes first before doing larger ones and going fast in the morning when I have the most energy. So, going from Theth to Valbona is the perfect fit for me.
Since both are generally the same, within this guide, I will stick to the Theth to Valbona route. However, if you decide to do the other way around, everything I write here will still apply to you, so stick around until the end.
5-Days Albanian Alps Hiking Itinerary
Day 1: Prepare for the Hike in Shkodra
Hiking Time: 0
Difficulty: No hiking is required today.
Where to Stay: The Wanderers Hostel (Budget) - 9 USD/Night (Dorm) | Amberyellowbnb (Mid-Range) - 44 USD/Night (Superior Double Room).
In order to hike the Albanian Alps, you will first have to make your way to Shkodra, one of the oldest cities in the Balkans. Depending on where you are coming from, the trip from Tirana to Shkodra should not take longer than 2 hours. Therefore, you should have some time on your arrival day to prepare yourself for the hikes and see some of the cool sights in Shkodra.
To prepare for the hike, you can refer to my Things to Prepare list above. If you are looking for a good place to buy some supplies before the hike, SPAR Supermarket located at the end of G'juhadol Street is a great place to start.
- Walking Albania (8 days)
- Hiking Tour of Theth National Park, Valbona Valley & Koman Lake in 3 Days (3 days)
- Self-Guided Hiking Tour: Theth National Park, Valbona Valley & Koman Lake in 3 Days (3 days)
Once you are done with the preparation, you can spend the rest of the day exploring the city. From SPAR Supermarket, walk to the other end of G'juhadol Street and you will be in Kole Idromeno Street, one of the main attractions in Shkodra, full of restaurants and cafes to indulge yourself in.
Right around the same area as Kole Idromeno street, be sure to check out St. Stephen's Catholic Cathedral, Ebu Bekr Mosque, and Orthodox Cathedral of the Nativity as well while you are there. These are some of the prettiest structures you will find in Shkodra.
Looking for a great place to watch the sunset? Rozafa Castle, located 1.5 km south from Shkodra City Center, is one of the best places to do that. Two hours before sunset, start making your way to the castle, and when you are there, do not enter the castle (it is probably closed by then anyway) but climb up the hill to the side of the castle instead and watch the sunset from outside the castle wall.
If you don't fancy walking for 1.5 km, you can also rent a bike from your hostel/hotel and ride to Rozafa Castle as well. With a bike, you can also go further and check out the old Mesi Ottoman Bridge to the north of the city or ride along the Lake Skadar to Zogaj and back.
Before you end the day, organize your transportation into and out of the Albanian Alps. Many accommodations in Shkodra can still arrange the complete circuit for you, or you can book the individual transfers and Komani Lake ferry yourself. Current published 2026 prices are around 12 EUR for Shkodra to Theth, 8 EUR for Valbona to Fierza, 1,000 LEK cash for the Fierza-Koman ferry, and 8 EUR for Koman to Shkodra.
The classic return route still works the same way: transfer from Valbona to Fierza, take the ferry across Komani Lake to Koman, and then continue by minibus to Shkodra. If you arrange the package through your accommodation, confirm exactly which legs are included and whether any tickets need to be paid separately.
For accommodation in Theth and Valbona, you might be able to get by without booking during the shoulder seasons. However, if you are there in the mid-summer months, I highly recommend booking them before you embark on the journey. The good ones (the ones I recommended in this guide) get booked out really fast.
Thankfully, you can book the accommodation on Booking.com now as they have recently obtained a reliable internet connection in both places.
Where to Stay in Shkodra?
Day 2: Travel from Shkodra to Theth and Hike to Denelle in Theth
Difficulty: Moderate - Steep Climb at First but Easy towards the End
Where to Stay: Shpella Guesthouse Theth (Budget) - 17 USD/Night (Dorm) | 33 USD/Night (Twin Room with Private Bathroom).
After a night in Shkodra, you can depart for Theth in the morning. When I did this trip, my minibus picked me up directly from my hostel at around 7:20 AM. Current scheduled transfers also operate between Shkodra and Theth, with departures published for around 7 AM and 2 PM, although pickup arrangements can vary by operator and accommodation.
My bus came and picked me up at my hostel at around 7:20 AM, so be sure to wake up early. I asked my hostel to prepare my breakfast for the trip, so you can do that too. Otherwise, the bus will stop at a viewpoint halfway to Theth, so you can buy some snacks and coffee from there as well.
When I visited, the journey took around 3 hours and the final mountain section was still a rough road. That has changed significantly: the road to Theth is now paved, making access considerably easier than it was during my trip. Travel time still varies with traffic, stops, and mountain conditions. If you are staying at Shpella Guesthouse, let your driver know where you are staying so they can tell you the best place to get off.
There are 2 areas in Theth, the town center (if I could call it a town) and Fushe Thethi in the outer rim of the town where Shpella Guesthouse is located. It is only a 15-minute walk from one another, but the view is so much better in Fushe Thethi, hence why I recommend Shpella Guesthouse.
Shpella Guesthouse is also located close to all the side trips we will be doing today and tomorrow, so that is another reason to stay in the outer rim of Theth rather than at the center.
After a 3-hour journey from Shkodra, you should arrive in Theth by 11 AM, which should give you ample time to do some hikes before sunset. A hike I would recommend you do is the Denelle Trail, which will take you up a mountain, allowing you to see the other side of the valley.
The hike ends in Denelle, a giant plain surrounded by mountains, and in the midst of that, you will find a warm, welcoming family of 5 and their settlement where you can refill your water and enjoy the view with their lovely daughters.
The trail begins from Fushe Thethi just east of Shpella Guesthouse and continues east towards a rocky river bed where you will have to cross to the other side.
From the other side of the riverbed, the trail is a 3-hour straight-up hike through a thick forest where you will be able to occasionally take a break and admire the view of Theth and all the surrounding valleys from above.
If you think this view is nice, I would recommend that you go up first and come back down to this same spot on your way down a few hours before sunset. The light will be amazing then, and you should be able to capture some epic photos, as I did 😁.
The viewpoint is about halfway into the 3-hour hike, so you are still a long way until you arrive in Denelle. Continue to hike up further, and you should arrive at an opening where you will find yourself in the middle of a large plain surrounded by mountains.
Looking up from Theth, it is hard to imagine that this place exists high up in the middle of all those beautiful peaks. Continue walking a bit further into the plain and you will see a small camp where the warm-welcoming family of 5 awaits you.
Congratulations, you have reached the end of Denelle Trail, so you can relax a bit. Ask the family to fill up your water and explore the surrounding area. After you have finished taking photos, make your way down the same way.
It should be another 2 hours before you arrive back in Theth. Along the way, be sure to look out to the breathtaking valleys towering over Theth and watch as the sun retreats.
The hike to Denelle is moderate to hard, but tomorrow we will be doing an easier hike to the Blue Eye that consists of 90% flat trails and only 10% steep climbs.
After a hike, congratulate yourself with a feast worthy of a champion. At Shpella Guesthouse, every evening, the mother of the owner of the guesthouse will cook a large feast where everyone gathers around a large table and eats together.
They will prepare around 5-6 local dishes, where you can eat as much as you want. It costs 8 EUR per person, which is expensive for Albanian standards. However, the price makes sense when you consider that you are in the mountains and the food is plentiful, delicious, and you can eat until you collapse! I highly recommend dinner at Shpella Guesthouse.
After an epic feast, make sure to go out into the night and check out the night sky before you end the day. Walk a little towards the road connecting Theth center and the outer rim, and you will be away from artificial light, giving you the opportunity to have the entire Milky Way to yourself 😉. That's why I always carry a tripod!
Where to Stay in Theth?
Day 3: Hike to the Blue Eye in Theth
Difficulty: Easy - Mostly Flat But Long
Where to Stay: Shpella Guesthouse Theth (Budget) - 17 USD/Night (Dorm) | 33 USD/Night (Twin Room with Private Bathroom).
After a good night's sleep, have an epic breakfast at Shpella Guesthouse and set off to the Blue Eye, one of the most popular hikes to do in Theth. Due to its popularity, you can expect many more people doing this hike than the one I recommended the day before.
The Blue Eye trail begins just south of Shpella Guesthouse, where you will have to walk down along the right bank of the river until you cross the rocky river bed you crossed yesterday (at a different point). From here, you will have the option to either continue to the Blue Eye or check out Theth Waterfall.
It is just another 5-minute side trip, so I would recommend you visit Grunas Waterfall first, and then the trail should merge back to the Blue Eye trail. It is quite crowded for my liking, though it was still quite a nice view to see.
Be sure you keep checking your Maps.me after the waterfall. My friend Lindsay and I got lost quite a few times before we found ourselves on the right track.
After the waterfall, you will walk along a flat trail for 2 hours until you have to cross the river to a small settlement called Nderlysaj. From there, it is another 30-minute walk and a 15-minute steep climb to the Blue Eye.
After approximately 3 hours, you should arrive at the Blue Eye, where you can stop for lunch, swim in the chilling waters of the Blue Eye, or relax at the small café they have there.
Despite the temperature of the water, the Blue Eye is a stunning natural phenomenon to look at, even if you don't plan to swim. The water is extremely clear, and the fact that it is tucked away in a lush green forest makes the Blue Eye one hell of a photogenic place.
After taking a break at the Blue Eye, you can start heading back the same way to Theth. In general, the hike to the Blue Eye itself is very easy and not very demanding, but the trail is long, and you will be hiking for about 6 hours in total, so do prepare your gear accordingly.
After the hike, you will have the evening to freshen up, have an amazing dinner at Shpella Guesthouse, and socialize with the people at the guesthouse. For some reason, Shpella Guesthouse attracts the best people!
When I was there, we were stuck at Shpella Guesthouse for 3 days due to heavy rainfall, and I met some really awesome people. We ended up hiking together after the rain stopped. If you are looking to socialize in Theth, the Shpella Guesthouse dinner table is a great place to start 😉.
Day 4: Hike from Theth to Valbona
Hiking Time: 7 hours
Difficulty: Hard - Steep and Long Trail
Where to Stay: Jezerca Guesthouse (Budget) - 15 USD/Night (Dorm) | 33 USD/Night (Budget Double Room).
Today is going to be a big day and probably one of the reasons why you are visiting the Albanian Alps in the first place. We are tackling the famous Theth-Valbona hike, which will take you through some of the most stunning trails in the area.
From Theth, you will have to make your way up north heading towards Theth Center, but instead of crossing the river and following the road, you stick to the right bank of the river until you have to cross it on foot. Then, follow the trail until you reach the intersection.
Turn right at the intersection and then follow the trail, cross the riverbed again, and you should see a sign directing you to the trailhead of the Theth-Valbona hike.
From the trailhead, it is a 3-hour steep climb that goes straight up to Valbona Pass, the highest point of the trail. It is a long, strenuous hike, so take it slow and take a break often if you have to.
The trail at the beginning is mostly exposed, but 30 minutes in, and you should be in a forest, which should help you with the heat. This part is definitely the hardest of them all, but once you reach the Pass, it will be a simple stroll from then to Valbona.
There are a few awesome viewpoints along the way, so be sure to keep an eye out for one. Also, do not forget to look back once you are about to approach Valbona Pass.
After 3 hours of climbing, you should arrive at Valbona Pass where you can continue to climb up further to an actual viewpoint to get that epic panorama shot. Be very careful here as the trail is narrow and covered in slippery gravel.
Once you are done taking photos and chilling out at the pass, you can continue down the mountain and through the valley to Valbona. It is an easy stroll from here on out, but it is still quite a long way to go until you arrive in Valbona.
Along the trail, you will find quite a few cafes where you can stop and take a break. I recommend Simoni Cafe if you are looking to stop for a bit after making your way down the Pass. For only 2 euros, you can get yourself a glass of their delicious iced coffee, a beer, or raki if you need a shot of that to wake you up 😉.
From Simoni Cafe, it is another 2.5-hour walk down the mountain and along the rocky riverbed until you arrive at a paved road. Depending on where your accommodation is, you might have to walk further along the road for another 45 minutes to get to the end of Valbona.
Jezerca Guesthouse that I recommended is located right at the end of Valbona, so you will have to walk for another 45 minutes to get there. Do not worry, once you see the road, you will want to continue on. The surrounding view in Valbona is pretty epic.
Along both sides of the road, you will see tons of breathtaking mountains, lush green forests, and cute little local farmhouses that should keep you occupied until you arrive at your guesthouse.
Also, be sure to keep an eye out for a few of the 170,000 bunkers that are scattered throughout the country in Valbona. There are quite a few of them hidden away along the road here.
After you arrive at your guesthouse, freshen up, eat dinner, and be sure to let your guesthouse know that you are going on the 10:30 AM bus the next day. Make sure you still have the tickets you bought earlier with you. If you somehow lost them, you can buy another one at the guesthouse in Valbona.
Where to Stay in Valbona?
Day 5: Travel from Valbona to Shkodra
Hiking Time: 0
Difficulty: No hiking required today
Where to Stay: The Wanderers Hostel (Budget) - 9 USD/Night (Dorm) | Amberyellowbnb (Mid-Range) - 44 USD/Night (Superior Double Room).
Valbona is especially beautiful in the morning, so if you sleep in the day before, be sure to wake up early and walk around the town at sunrise before your departure.
From your guesthouse, a bus will come and pick you up at 10:30 AM (sometimes a bit earlier), and it will drive you to Fierze, a town where you will have to catch the ferry across Komani Lake.
The bus journey from Valbona to Fierze is about an hour, and you should arrive in time for the 1 PM ferry to Koman. At Fierze, they will drop you off right at the port where there is a restaurant where you can sit and wait for the ferry.
After you get on the ferry, it is another 2-hour journey across the Komani Lake. The view is quite amazing throughout, so be sure to find a seat outside.
On the ferry, you can buy water, soft drinks, and some light snacks in case you run out during the hike. After 2 hours on the ferry, you should arrive at the port in Koman around 4 PM.
At the port, there will be several buses waiting for you. You can get on one of them, give the driver your ticket, and they will take you back to Shkodra in 2 hours.
Congratulations! You have finally completed the epic Theth-Valbona hike in the Albanian Alps! From Shkodra, you will arrive too late to catch any bus out, so you will likely have to stay overnight and then catch a bus the next day.
Albania Travel Video
When is the Best Time to Hike the Albanian Alps?
For the Theth-Valbona Pass hike itself, I would now recommend planning for June to September rather than assuming the trail is reliably hikeable from May through October. The valleys can be visited outside that window, but snow can linger on the pass into late spring and return in autumn, so trail conditions matter more than the calendar.
Keep in mind that mountain weather can change quickly even in midsummer. Check both the forecast and recent trail conditions before setting out, and ask your guesthouse in Theth or Valbona whether there is snow, heavy rain, or any other issue on the pass.
I would check the forecast a few days before the hike and then again the evening before and morning of departure. If conditions are poor, be prepared to wait or change your plan rather than treating the crossing as something that must be completed on a fixed day.
I was hiking in July, and we were stuck in Theth for 3 days due to heavy rainfall. A couple of friends and I decided to extend our trip so that we could outstay the rain, but some had to go back as they didn't have the time. So, if you are determined to hike the Albanian Alps, be sure to leave some wiggle room in case the weather goes bad.
For hiking out-of-season, I would recommend against it as most of the high passes in the Albanian Alps will likely be closed off due to snowfall, and the ferry service across Komani Lake, one of the transportation options you will have to rely on, only runs from mid-April to early November.
July and August are the busiest months on the trail. If you want fewer hikers while still having a good chance of a snow-free pass, June or September are usually the better months. I would be more cautious about recommending May because lingering snow can make the Valbona Pass crossing unsafe without appropriate experience and equipment.
How to Get to the Albanian Alps?
The Albanian Alps are located in the northern part of Albania, bordering Kosovo and Montenegro. In order to get to the Albanian Alps, you will have to get to Shkodra, the main city hub, before you embark on the mountain.
Depending on where you are coming from, most likely you will have to fly into Tirana, the capital city of Albania first. There are a few ways you can get to Tirana:
How to Get to Tirana?
From the US or Asia, you will generally reach Tirana with at least one connection, so compare complete itineraries through major European or regional hubs rather than planning around one specific airline or routing.
From within Europe, Tirana now has a large network of direct flights, including many low-cost services. Airlines and seasonal routes change frequently, so compare your departure city directly instead of relying on an old fixed list of carriers.
From Asia, the easiest way to fly to Tirana is through Istanbul via Turkish Airlines. If you want to minimize costs, you can find a way to Turkey and then from there, you can fly with Pegasus Low-Cost Airline to Tirana. Keep in mind that you might have to change airports if you are switching from a regular carrier to a low-cost carrier in Istanbul.
To find a cheap flight to Tirana, I would recommend that you use Skyscanner or Expedia to look for the cheapest route and schedule, so you can compare and pick the best one.
How to Get from Tirana to Shkodra?
From Tirana, you can take one of the many buses going to Shkodra every day from the Northward Bus Station in Tirana.
There are 13 buses running every day between the two cities from 7 AM to 5 PM, running almost every hour. The bus costs 300 LEK and will take around 2 hours to reach Shkodra. They will drop you off at Sheshi Demonkracia roundabout located in the city center, so you should have no trouble walking to your hostel/hotel.
How to Get from Saranda to Shkodra?
Saranda is a big city hub in southern Albania, and if you are coming from Greece by ferry, you will likely end up here. If you are looking to travel from Saranda to Shkodra, you can easily do it in one day without a stopover in Tirana.
First, you will have to get to Tirana by catching one of the many buses bound for Tirana. The buses connecting these two cities run from 5 AM to 10 PM. Keep in mind that this schedule may be subject to change depending on the season you are traveling in.
The journey from Saranda to Tirana will take 5 hours and cost 1300 LEK, while the journey from Tirana to Shkodra will take another 2 hours and cost 300 LEK.
How to Get to Theth and Valbona Trailhead?
The trailhead doesn't begin until you are in Theth, which is still quite far away from Shkodra. It can get quite confusing wrapping your head around all the transportation required to bring you to the Albanian Alps and back, but do not sweat, I'm here to break the entire trip down into an easy-to-understand step-by-step guide.
Tips: You will be traveling by minibus from Shkodra to Theth and then, after hiking to Valbona, using a transfer to Fierza, the Komani Lake ferry, and another transfer back to Shkodra. Booking the whole circuit through your accommodation is still convenient, but you can also book the legs separately. At current published prices, budget roughly 3,600 - 4,000 LEK for the complete transport circuit, depending on the exchange rate and how you book.
Getting from Shkodra to Theth
From Shkodra, scheduled minibuses and transfers travel directly to Theth on the now-paved mountain road. When I made the trip, my hostel arranged a pickup at around 7:20 AM and the journey took about 3 hours. Current operators publish departures around 7 AM and 2 PM, but confirm your pickup point and time when you book.
Current published transfers are around 12 EUR for Shkodra to Theth. Travel time varies, but the paved road has made the journey much easier than when I first did it. Depending on the operator and where your guesthouse is located, you may be dropped nearby rather than directly at the door, so confirm this when you book.
Getting from Theth to Valbona
From Theth to Valbona, you will have to hike up to the Valbona Pass for 3 hours and down to Valbona in 4 hours. You can find more details on what to expect along the trail below.
Getting from Valbona to Shkodra
From Valbona, the classic scenic route back to Shkodra still goes via Fierza and Komani Lake. The current Ferry Berisha schedule lists a 10:30 AM Valbona-Fierza transfer for 8 EUR, timed to connect with the afternoon ferry.
If you book the complete route in advance, let your guesthouse know the day before so they can help confirm where and when the minibus will pick you up. Mountain transfers are small, so reserving ahead in the busy summer months is still a good idea.
The current Ferry Berisha service departs Fierza at 1 PM for Koman during its operating season, which runs roughly from mid-April to early November. A passenger ticket is currently 1,000 LEK cash, or slightly less when booked online, and the crossing takes roughly 2.5 hours.
From Koman, the current connecting transfer to Shkodra departs at around 3:45 PM and costs 8 EUR. The operator schedules these services around the ferry arrival, making this still one of the easiest ways to return to Shkodra after finishing the hike in Valbona.
Altogether, budget roughly 2,500 LEK for the Valbona-Fierza-Koman-Shkodra journey at current prices. The exact amount in lek varies with the euro exchange rate and whether you book online or pay cash.
How Many Days to Spend Hiking in the Albanian Alps?
If you are only interested in doing the Theth-Valbona hike and you do not have a lot of time, you can spend a minimum of 3 full days (4 nights), including 2 nights in Shkodra and one night each in Theth and Valbona. However, you will barely scratch the surface of what makes the Albanian Alps so breathtaking.
If you have more time, I would recommend that you spend at least 4 full days (5 nights), with 2 nights in Shkodra, 2 nights in Theth, and one night in Valbona. This way, you will have more time to do some epic side trips in Theth.
Here is a breakdown of the 4-day itinerary in the Albanian Alps:
Day 1: Prepare for the hike in Shkodra and spend the night there.
Day 2: Travel to Theth and hike up to Denelle and back. Spend one night in Theth.
Day 3: Hike to the Blue Eye and back, and spend another night in Theth.
Day 4: Complete the Theth-Valbona hike and stay overnight in Valbona.
Day 5: Travel back to Shkodra and spend the night there.
For more details on the 5-day itinerary and the hiking trails, check out the detailed 5-day hiking itinerary in the Albanian Alps below.
How Much Money Do I Need for the Albanian Alps?
From the 5-day itinerary above, we can calculate the minimum amount of money you can expect to spend in the Albanian Alps as follows:
Tips: Do not rely on finding an ATM once you are deep in the mountains. Withdraw enough cash in Shkodra for your guesthouses, meals, transfers, and a buffer for weather delays. Some accommodations may accept cards, but cash remains the safest option for this route.
Accommodation: Budget around 12,000 - 16,000 LEK for two nights in Shkodra, two nights in Theth, and one night in Valbona using hostel dorms, simple guesthouses, or budget rooms. July and August are the most expensive months, so book early if you are hiking during peak season.
Food: Allow around 8,000 - 10,000 LEK for five days. Guesthouses in Theth and Valbona often offer breakfast and dinner, while packed lunches or simple meals can be arranged for hiking days. Mountain food naturally costs more than in Shkodra.
Transportation: At current published prices, budget around 3,600 - 4,000 LEK for the Shkodra-Theth transfer plus the Valbona-Fierza transfer, Fierza-Koman ferry, and Koman-Shkodra transfer.
Activities: The Theth-Valbona hike itself is free, so you do not need a large activities budget. Allow up to 500 - 1,000 LEK for small local entrance fees, optional transport, or other incidental costs along the way.
Total Budget: 25,000 - 34,000 LEK (308 - 419 USD) per person.
Is it Safe in the Albanian Alps
The main risks on this itinerary come from the mountain environment rather than from the villages themselves. Use normal travel precautions, but pay particular attention to weather, trail conditions, heat, dehydration, and your footing on steep or loose sections.
The Theth-Valbona trail includes steep climbs and descents and can become slippery in rain. Snow on or around Valbona Pass can make the crossing substantially more serious, especially early or late in the season. Do not attempt the pass simply because the valleys are accessible; ask locally about current trail conditions before setting out.
When it is crowded up there, people have the habit of trying to squeeze themselves in to get that epic view of the Valbona Valley, so watch your step and watch out for other people's swinging backpacks.
Which tourist SIM card is best for The Albanian Alps?
Update: If your phone supports eSIM, I highly recommend checking out Airalo, a global eSIM marketplace. It allows you to stay connected affordably while traveling in Albanian Alps, Albania without having to switch out your physical SIM card.
Gone are the days when you needed to scramble to find a local SIM card at an airport upon arrival. You can purchase an eSIM before your arrival, and you'll be good to go. If your phone doesn't support eSIM, here is how you can get a local SIM card in Albanian Alps, Albania:
In Shkodra, there is fast WIFI available in most places, so you should have no trouble finding one, but that is another story in Theth and Valbona, since they are both in the mountains. However, if you stay at the guesthouses I recommended, they do have reliable WIFI in the common area that you can stay connected to.
Mobile coverage in Theth and Valbona has improved since my trip, but you should still expect weak or absent signal on parts of the hiking trails. Do not rely on mobile data for navigation or emergencies: download your maps before leaving Shkodra and keep your accommodation and transport details available offline.
Vodafone Albania's tourist packages have also changed significantly. In 2026, its main tourist SIM options start at 2,700 LEK for 15 days with 1 TB of data and 1,000 national minutes. There is also a 2,900 LEK / 21-day package and a 3,300 LEK / 30-day package.
If you only need a small amount of data, compare Vodafone's regular prepaid packages as well, since the tourist bundles now include far more data than most travelers will need.
Alternatively, if your phone supports eSIMs, you can set one up before arriving and have mobile data as soon as you land. You can browse through available eSIMs here.
Tips: To stay connected with people at home, be sure that you have a VPN, such as ProtonVPN, installed before traveling. It's FREE, and you can gain access to services that may be blocked in certain countries.
What To Pack for Theth-Valbona Hike in the Albanian Alps?
- Cash: This is very important as you should not rely on finding an ATM in Theth or Valbona. Withdraw enough cash in Shkodra for the entire mountain section, with some extra in case weather delays your trip. Check out my cost breakdown of the Albanian Alps here.
- Minimal Toiletries: Proper showers and bathrooms are available in the guesthouses in Valbona and Theth, so pack some toiletries for the trip.
- Sunblocks and Sunglasses: The sun can get quite strong up there, so do put on sunblock before the hike. Sunglasses are recommended, especially for the trail from Valbona Pass to Valbona, which goes through a riverbed full of blinding white rocks and gravel that reflect light.
- Water bottles: Make sure you carry with you a 2-liter bottle because the hikes you will be doing can last from 5 to 7 hours, so prepare accordingly. You can refill your water at your guesthouse. I always carry my 2-liter hydration pack, which I recommend so you don't have to stop to stay hydrated.
- Snacks and Lunch: In Shkodra, be sure to buy some hiking snacks (granola bars, etc.) for the 5 days you are going to be in the mountains. Some light meals (ham, bread, peanut butter, etc.) are also recommended so that you can prepare lunch for the hikes. You can buy bread from your guesthouse, so no need to take one off if you don't want to.
- Sturdy Shoes: There are many steep trails with loose gravel, especially when you are approaching the Valbona Pass, so I would recommend wearing sturdy shoes that can handle that kind of terrain. These Timberland Shoes are my go-to hiking boots in most situations.
- Wind-proof and insulating jackets: It can get quite cold in the mountains, even in Theth and Valbona, especially at night or when it rains. So be sure to have warm layers with you. A fleece and a windproof jacket are enough if you are hiking in the summer. Here are jackets I recommend you get for the trip: fleece jacket and the beautiful orange Columbia outer-shell jacket.
- A Daypack: You will need a daypack to carry all of your gear with you when you are out and about. During this trip, I use the Herschel Supply's Barlow Trail Collection Backpack to carry everything with me. It is lightweight with good capacity and stylish as hell.
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Maps.me: All the hiking trails I recommend here are also available on Maps.me, which is an app I highly recommend you get before you start hiking. You can download Maps.me here: Android | iOS.
Make sure you download the offline maps before you hit the trail.
Baggage Storage for the Albanian Alps
For the Albanian Alps, you do not have to carry everything with you during the hike. You can leave your luggage at your accommodation in Shkodra for a fee, and you can come and pick it up later when you have completed the hike. Depending on which accommodation you are staying at, the baggage storage fee can range from free to around 1 EUR per day. I left my backpack at my hostel, and I paid 5 EUR for 5 days of storage.
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20 Comments
Hi Pete
I've come across your travel guides by accident and SO glad that I have! I've got a lot of ambitions to see the world. You've practically written the Karakorum Highway trek for me which is going to be my treat for my 60th in July this year in the country of my birth (UK resident)! I had also considered Albania and you've done a fantastic itinerary for Theth to Valbona too!! I shall be using your guides for other adventures perhaps Patagonia, Borneo etc. Many thanks.
Saeed
ps..I have already done Kili, Macchu Picchu, Morocco, Slovakia and others. Everest Base Camp coming up in Feburary!!
Hey Saeed!
I'm glad you are inspired and best of all find the content here useful! The Karakoram Highway is amazing and you will definitely be surrounded by one of the most stunning landscapes in the world on your 60th BD! Albania is also a great place to escape the Europe tourist hordes and enjoy the beautiful countryside in solitude.
Good luck with EBS! It's one of my favorite trips I've done so far. The Himalayas never disappoint! Haha.
Thanks again for the kind words and I hope you will enjoy all your upcoming trips! Feel free to ask me anytime if you have any questions regarding these places. :)
Safe journey!
Hi Pete, thanks for sharing your experience of travelling and hiking in Albania! My partner and I are planning to include Albania in our trip through Europe and I'm wondering how you have managed to do a roundtrip hike with all your things? Did you take your backpack with you on all hikes or did you leave some stuff behind to collect on your way back..? We're trying to travel light but still I'm worried it will be too much to carry on the Valbona Pass. Any insights, tipps or recommendations would be much appreciated! Many thanks, Carina
Hey Carina,
Thank you for the comments. I left some of my stuff at the hostel I was staying in Shkodra and went to Theth with a daypack instead and I recommend you do the same. The hostel I was staying was charging me a few lek extra for 5 days of storage on-top of the hostel price. I can't remember how much exactly but it wasn't much. Some accommodation might even allow you to store them for free so no need to worry about the rest of your belongings during the hike.
I hope this helps!
Hi Pete,
This is a great guide for everything concerning the Theth area. Thank you so much for all the information.
I am going to Albania next month with my boyfriend. We rented a 4x4 Lada so we can drive to Theth ourselves.
We will probably to Skoder Theth first, hike there for three days and then drive back around to do the boat trip on the Komani river. This because we can't take our car from Theth to Valbona. Do you have any advice for us with the car? Can we park at the Shpella Guesthouse? Do you think it is worth it to take the car on the boat to fierzë and to stay the night there or just take the boat back the same day?
Any tips are greatly appreciated! Thanks so much!
Cheers, Arienne
Hey Arienne,
Thank you! Hope you found the guide useful. You can definitely park your car at Shpella Guesthouse. There's lots of space around the area. For Valbone, I'm not sure how much of a headache it would be to take a car on the ferry but I did see many people doing it so maybe it is best to go as early as possible or maybe ask your accommodation in Shkodër for more info.
Taking the ferry one way is great but 2-way? I'm not sure. It might get boring fast. You might consider driving back via the roadway instead of taking the ferry.
The mountains around Valbone are very nice. It really gives the same vibe as Italian Alps but more raw and rustic but that's mostly it. All the side hikes you can do are mostly in Theth and I did enjoyed my time more there.
If you have the time, I recommend you visiting both but if not, I would go for Theth instead as there are more things to do there.
I hope this helps!
Hi, Pete, about your trip of Albania Alp, did you deposit some of your baggage in Shkodra then went to Theth? Because I saw you just took a small backpack from your blog.
And Did you download off-line map on your cell phone when hiking?
Thank you for replying, your blog always inspired me a lot since 2017.
Hey Jiang,
Yes I did. I just left it at a hostel in Shkodra for 1 EUR per day. You can read more details under "Baggage Storage For The Albanian Alps" section. I used the Maps.me app to download the whole area offline but there were a lot of people doing it so it wasn't that hard to navigate but it's always a good idea to have a map offline.
I hope this helps and thank you for the compliment! :)
Hello Pete! Thank you for this complete guide and other suggestions in the area! Where can find the exact location of Denelle trail? Google maps don't show it and the trail looks really pretty.
Hey Hava, you should be able to find it on Maps.me. Just download the map offline, punch in this coordinate (42°21'53.9"N 19°48'53.8"E), choose walking, and you should be able to follow along the path.
You should also be able to do it with Google Maps given the coordinate I provided.
I've also added a link with the navigation to "Denelle Trail", so you should be able to click it and get the directions immediately.
I hope this helps!