Be warned: Due to the ongoing conflict, I do not recommend visiting Ukraine at the moment, particularly in the east. Some western areas, like Lviv, are generally safer, but there is always a risk of the conflict spreading and spilling over to the west. If you choose to visit, please do so at your own risk and take all necessary precautions.
Ukraine may not be known as a popular travel destination in Europe, but that is what makes the country worth visiting. Did you know that Ukraine is a country that strikes a perfect balance between familiarity and uniqueness, unlike any other countries in Europe? None of the big cities in Ukraine are the same.
Due to its close proximity to Western Europe, Romania, and Russia, Ukrainian cities like Lviv have that familiarity with their neighboring Poland. Kyiv and Kharkiv lend their vibe from their Soviet past while fostering and breaking their way out for a new and unique identity of their own.
Odesa is also its own thing with a perfect blend of cultures from the people (Turks, Slavs, etc.) that inhabited the place, while Yaremche maintains its folk culture shared among several countries in the Carpathian Mountains.
If you really want to experience Ukraine and all it has to offer, you will need at least a month to see them all, and that is why I am writing this travel guide. Here is the ultimate backpacking guide with a one-month itinerary on things to do, what tourist attractions to see, and how to travel around Ukraine. As usual, let's begin with a look at our itinerary on a map:
- One Month in Ukraine Itinerary Map
- One Month Ukraine Itinerary
- More Ukraine Activities
- Ukraine Travel Video
- When to Visit Ukraine?
- How to Get to Ukraine?
- How to Get Around Ukraine?
- How Much Money Do I Need for Ukraine?
- Is it Safe in Ukraine?
- Visa for Ukraine
- Which tourist SIM card is best for Ukraine?
- What to Pack for Ukraine?
- Further Reading for Ukraine
One Month in Ukraine Itinerary Map
| โ๏ธ Day 1-5: | Kyiv |
| โ๏ธ Day 6-7: | Lutsk |
| โ๏ธ Day 8-12: | Lviv |
| โ๏ธ Day 13-15: | Yaremche - The Carpathians |
| โ๏ธ Day 16-17: | Chernivtsi |
| โ๏ธ Day 18-19: | Kamianets-Podilskyi |
| โ๏ธ Day 20-22: | Odesa |
| โ๏ธ Day 23-25: | Kharkiv |
| โ๏ธ Day 26: | Kyiv |
One Month Ukraine Itinerary
Day 1 - 5: Kyiv (5 - 6 Nights)
We first begin our journey in one of the most vibrant and my favorite cities out of all, Kyiv, a city with so many awesome things to do that you would need at least 5 days to properly experience all the city has to offer. And do not worry, we will be going to Chernobyl as well.
When you arrive at your accommodation, I would recommend that you first book your Chernobyl tour for your last day in Kyiv to avoid paying the last-minute price. The tour to Chernobyl will cost you 125 USD if you want to visit in the next 3 days, but the price will go down to 100 USD if you reserve it 4 days prior.
Eastern Orthodoxy is the dominant religion in Ukraine, and you will find many stunning religious buildings and structures dedicated to the belief all over Kyiv. You can spend your first day in Kyiv visiting all the cathedrals and churches throughout the city.
St. Sophia's Cathedral and its Bell Tower is a great place to visit if you are looking for a tower to go up and see Kyiv from above. You will have to pay to go into the cathedral and up the tower, but I can assure you it is worth the 160 UAH price tag (which will give access to the Cathedral and the Bell Tower).
From the Bell Tower, you may see another religious structure located not too far from it. That is St. Michael's Golden-Domed Monastery, which is another stunning architectural site to check out while you are in Kyiv. It's free to enter and it is connected to a park that leads to another popular tourist attraction, Andriivs'kyi Descent.
Andriivs'kyi Descent is a historic descent that connects Old Kyiv to the hip neighborhood of Podil. There are several souvenir shops and restaurants sandwiched along both sides of the descent, making it a great place to hang out for the rest of the day.
On your second day, you can visit the lively Khreschatyk Shopping Street where you will find many awesome cafes and one of my favorite restaurants in Ukraine, Puzata Hata, which I highly recommend.
From Khreschatyk Shopping Street, you can walk to the Independence Square, a place infamously known for where the Ukrainian Revolution in 2014 took place. It is nothing like the photo you may have seen from the media of the aftermath, though. Now, you will find a ton of locals gathering around the square to socialize, relax, and enjoy each other's company.
From Independence Square, you can continue towards the Friendship of Nations Arch located high up in the hills along the Dnieper River where you will be able to see the other side of Kyiv. It is also a great way to walk to one of my favorite monasteries, the Cave Monastery at Kyiv Pechersk Lavra.
Kyiv Pechersk Lavra contains several monuments such as the Cathedral of the Dormition, the Bell Towers, the Refectory Church, the Church of All Saints, and, best of all, the cave system where pilgrims still use to pay respect to the dead monks inside.
You can spend at least 2 hours walking and exploring all the monuments inside the area before you go to The Motherland Monument, which is a perfect place to be at sunset.
The Motherland Monument is surrounded by parks and museums, so if you want to spend more time there, I would recommend visiting both Kyiv Pechersk Lavra and the Motherland Monument on your third day. This is because visiting both can take more than 5 hours to see them all.
You can spend your fourth day in Kyiv exploring the hip district of Podil, where you will find many shops and restaurants, as well as a giant Ferris Wheel and the Chernobyl Museum dedicated to telling the story of what actually happened in Chernobyl that night in 1986.
On your fifth day in Kyiv, you can go on the Chernobyl tour you booked previously and spend the day learning about the incident and exploring Pripyat on foot. There is nothing more memorable than actually experiencing and seeing the real-life post-apocalyptic wasteland with your own eyes.
If you have a day to spare, I would recommend that you go out into the city and explore all the cool cafes in Kyiv. There are countless amazing themed cafes, hipster cafes hidden in Kyiv's rustic alleyways, and a ton of great indie cafes with outdoor spaces for one to sit in the sunlight. It's a great way to relax and end your trip in a wonderful city like Kyiv.
Where to Stay in Kyiv?
Getting from Kyiv to Lutsk
From Kyiv to Lutsk, you will have to take a marshrutka that leaves from a bus station near Kyiv Central Train Station. You can book your bus/marshrutka from 12Go.
You can get a marshrutka operated by Voyag-Luks that leaves at 11 AM, arrives in Lutsk at 17:00~, and costs 350 UAH.
I would recommend that you arrive 30 minutes earlier so that you will have time to figure out where your marshrutka leaves from. Keep in mind that they use Cyrillic alphabets here in Ukraine, and if you can't read it (like me), keep an eye out for ะัััะบ (Lutsk) or ะะพะฒะตะปั (Kovel) signs in front of a marshrutka (most buses that go to Kovel will pass through Lutsk).
Day 6 - 7: Lutsk (2 Nights)
Not many Ukraine itineraries you find will recommend Lutsk, but since we are all about DIY and traveling as independently as one can, Lutsk is a great base to break your trip between Kyiv and Lviv while allowing you to visit one of the most photogenic places in Ukraine: the Tunnel of Love.
Since we only have one day in Lutsk, I would recommend that you spend the first half of the day visiting the Tunnel of Love. To do it independently, you will have to rely on a bus that connects Lutsk to Rivne, the two big cities in the area, and you will have to get off at Klevan, where the train track is, and walk from there.
After spending the first half of your day visiting the Tunnel of Love, you can spend the rest exploring Lutsk and all that the city has to offer. One of the most prominent landmarks in the city is Lubart's Castle, which I highly recommend you visit.
Other than the castle, there are many interesting sights in Lutsk that you should check out while there, such as the Cathedral Of The St. Peter And Paul, the House With Chimeras, Lesi Ukrainky Main Street, and many more things to do.
Where to Stay in Lutsk?
Getting from Lutsk to Lviv
There are many marshrutkas that leave from Lutsk to Lviv daily, so you can take one of them from Lutsk Bus Station.
From the Lutsk city center, you can take a local bus #17A or #8 from the Senatorky Levchanivskoi Bus Stop, and you should be dropped off at the Bus Station #1 bus stop, where you can then get on a bus to Lviv.
I took the one at 7:30 AM from Lutsk Bus Station, and I arrived in Lviv at 11:15 AM. The driver dropped me off in front of the Lviv Opera House, where it is only a 2-minute walk to Lviv Old Town. The bus costs 6 USD.
Day 8 - 12: Lviv (5 - 6 Nights)
Lviv, in Ukraine, is like Saint Petersburg in Russia, Prague in Czechia, and Krakow in Poland โ full of history, incredible architecture, and countless things to do.
As I mentioned before, every city in Ukraine has its own identity, and Lviv is one such city that has the most European vibe of all. The city has the familiarity of what you would come to expect from Eastern European cities, with tourist attractions all concentrated around an Old Town area, plenty of Catholic Churches to visit, and is full of events and activities to do in the summer months.
On your first day in Lviv, you can spend the day exploring all the beautiful architecture you can find in the Old Town area. Lviv Latin Cathedral, Dominican Cathedral, Bernadine Church and Monastery, and Armenian Cathedral of Lviv are some of the most stunning architecture you will find in Lviv.
Be sure to also go up to the Observation Deck atop Lviv Town Hall in the middle of Rynok Square, where you will be able to see Lviv and its surroundings from above.
If you are able to align your trip to Lviv on the weekends, you will be greeted with activities and music festivals in the middle of Rynok Square. One of the most popular events that happen annually in Lviv is the Leopolis Jazz Fest that goes on for 4 days at the end of June.
If you are unable to be there in June, you might still be able to experience a random event that may happen at Rynok Square, just like I did during my trip to Lviv. When I was there, there was a Yoga Music Fest that brought in some really cool Ukrainian indie bands for us to dance our nights away. Plus, attending the event was free!
If you have the flexibility, I would highly recommend aligning your travel to one of these events in Lviv. To check the event schedule, check out Lviv Official Event Page and see what is happening during the weekend you will be in the city.
There are also the Medieval Pharmacy museum where you can walk around the Alchemist lab from ancient times, the stunning stairways of the House of Scientists, and Lviv High Castle where you can hike up for sunset. That's already 2 days' worth of activities right there, and we barely scratch the surface.
Lviv is also well-known for its colorful themed cafรฉ culture, and it would be a crime if you are in Lviv and do not visit Lviv Coffee Mining Manufacture, where you will go into a cave and have the famous Flaming Coffee while the waiter sets your coffee on fire.
There is also a Folk Village Museum where you can spend at least 3 hours walking around and learning about the rich culture of the people who lived by the Carpathian mountains in the olden days.
You can walk through an open-air museum that was built to simulate a Folk Village, full of wooden churches and houses with different functions for you to discover.
If the sight of Lviv is becoming a little too repetitive, you can also spend another full day exploring the three ancient castles that are scattered across the beautiful landscape surrounding Lviv.
The 3 Castles Tour can be booked via Lviv Tourist Information Center for 350 UAH. Unfortunately, the guide can only speak Ukrainian but you will at least have a chance to see what the landscape around Lviv is like while visiting Oleskiy Castle, Pidhirtsi Castle, and Zolochivsสนkyy Castle all in one go.
Where to Stay in Lviv?
Getting from Lviv to Yaremche
From Lviv, there are 3 direct trains that you can take. I took the one that leaves at 06:35 and arrives at 11:01. The journey took 4.5 hours and cost around 150 UAH.
You can book your train online through 12Go or Tickets.ua. If you can't find Yaremche as a destination, try typing in ะฏัะตะผัะต, and the correct destination should come up.
Day 13 - 15: Yaremche - The Carpathians (3 Nights)
After spending so many days in cities, it is time to change things up a little and visit the Ukrainian Carpathian Mountains and go hike some epic trails.
The first hike I would recommend you to do is the Mt. Makovytsia trail, which begins right from Yaremche and goes all the way up to almost 1 km above sea level.
The Mt. Makovytsia trail is one of the most rewarding hikes you can do in Yaremche. It will take you around 2.5 hours to reach the summit and 2 to get down. However, when you are up there, you will get a 360ยฐ panoramic view of the mountains and valleys surrounding Yaremche.
The hike is easy to moderate, and you can do it on your own simply by following the trail available on Maps.me. While on the trail, you will also have the option to take a side trail to Dovbush rocks, which were sacred rocks to the people living in the Carpathians back in the day.
After a day hiking Mt. Makovytsia, you can spend the rest of the day and reward yourself by having a nice local cuisine at Krasna Sadyba Restaurant, my favorite restaurant in Yaremche.
The next day, I would recommend that you go and hike Mt. Hoverla, the highest mountain in Ukraine. You can reach there by booking a daily excursion from Yaremche the day before.
The tour will take you to the trailhead, and a non-English-speaking guide will accompany your group to the top. However, you don't have to go with them, as the group is often quite slow. You can simply tell your guide that you are going to go ahead first, and you can hike on your own.
The entire hike takes 5 hours, with 2 hours going up a moderate to steep trail, 1 hour at the top, and 2 hours coming down. After everyone is down, the bus will take you back to Yaremche. The entire trip starts at 9 AM and finishes at 6 PM.
The view from the top of Mt. Hoverla is definitely worth it, as you will be able to see the Carpathian mountains and their infinite number of rolling green hills from all directions.
Be aware that it gets quite cold and windy at the top, even in the mid-summer months. So, be sure to pack layers for the hike as well as some snacks for the trail.
Where to Stay in Yaremche?
Getting from Yaremche to Chernivtsi
To get from Yaremche to Chernivtsi, you will have to first take a train to Ivano-Frankivsk. Depending on your connection time, you might have a few hours to explore Ivano-Frankivsk for 3 hours before you get on another train to Chernivtsi.
I took a 14:38 train from Yaremche, which arrived in Ivano-Frankivsk at 16:18 and cost 140 UAH. Then, I took another train that leaves from Ivano-Frankivsk at 19:58 and arrived in Chernivtsi by 22:05. The total cost for the ticket is 220 UAH (140 + 80 UAH).
With 3 hours between the 2 trains, you can leave your backpack at the train station's luggage storage and go out and explore Ivano-Frankivsk, as I did. Be sure to go up the Tower in Ivano-Frankivsk's Rynok Square for a panoramic view of the city.
Day 16 - 17: Chernivtsi (2 Nights)
Chernivtsi is home to one of the most beautiful and photogenic architectures in the country, the Chernivtsi National University. The university was built in 1875 when Chernivtsi was the capital of Bukovina, which was a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire back in the day.
You can see the outside influence that affected Chernivtsi from the architectural style of the University, which reflects the Baroque-Romanesque style that is common in Vienna, Austria. It's the Hogwarts of Ukraine.
You can spend an hour or two exploring the university grounds, or you can go with a tour group to gain access to the interior of the University.
Unfortunately, when I was there, there were only Ukrainian guides, so I don't think it would be worthwhile to go in and not understand what each room is for. Nevertheless, the outside was worth a visit in itself.
There are many other things to do in Chernivtsi that should occupy you for the rest of the day, such as the Massive Cathedral Of Holy Spirit, the Armenian Church, Kobylyanskoi Shopping Street where you can find many cafes and restaurants to indulge yourself in, and Teatralna Square, a great spot to hang out and go people-watching during the sunset.
Where to Stay in Chernivtsi?
Getting from Chernivtsi to Kamianets-Podilskyi
It only takes around 2 hours to get from Chernivtsi to Kamianets-Podilskyi, so you can rely on a marshrutka for this route.
To get from Chernivtsi city center to the Chernivtsi bus station, you can take bus #1 from (Zaliznychnyi vokzal), which is located in front of Chernivtsi National University. It will take you approximately 45 minutes to reach Chernivtsi bus station and cost 3 UAH.
You can book your bus ticket from 12Go, go to the bus station 30 minutes earlier, find the bus that has the sign "ะะฐะผ'ัะฝะตัั-ะะพะดัะปัััะบะธะน" (Kamianets-Podilskyi), ask them if it's the right bus, and if it is, show them the ticket, and you will be on your way.
Day 18 - 19: Kamianets-Podilskyi (2 Nights)
Kamianets-Podilskyi, an island city home to Kamianets-Podilskyi Castle, one of the most beautiful castles in Ukraine, is a place that seems as if it came straight out of a fairy tale.
The main attraction and the sole reason why one visits Kamianets-Podilskyi is the photogenic 11th-century Castle that is located on a giant rock surrounded by a 40-meter deep Smotrych River Canyon.
The best time to visit Kamianets-Podilskyi Castle is either in the early morning before 10 AM when the light shines directly on the castle, or at sunset and night when the landscape becomes like a fairy-tale and hot air balloons are flying above the castle.
Stay a little longer after the sunset, and you will see the castle under a new light, literally. Right after the sunset, the castle will be illuminated by colorful artificial light that is as stunning, if not more mythical, than when you see it during the day.
You can spend the day exploring the inside of the castle where there are quite a few museums and viewpoints you can check out or go and explore the Old Town area, visiting the Dominican Monastery, Saints Peter and Paul Cathedral, and all the stunning abandoned forts and towers scattered throughout the Old Town.
Where to Stay in Kamianets-Podilskyi?
Getting from Kamianets-Podilskyi to Odesa
Odesa is a long way from Kamianets-Podilskyi, but thankfully, with clever transit, you can get there in one day without having to break your trip down into multiple days.
First, you will have to take the earliest marshrutka from Kamianets-Podilskyi to Khmelnytskyi, a hub city that is 2 hours away from Kamianets-Podilskyi. From there, you can then take a train to Odesa, all in one day.
I took a 10 AM bus from Kamianets-Podilskyi bus station, which is within walking distance from the Old Town. I arrived at Khmelnytskyi bus station at 12:05, where I then flagged down a marshrutka #8 to get to Khmelnytskyi Train Station.
The entire transit took only 30 minutes, cost 100 UAH, and I was at Khmelnytskyi Train Station by 12:30, ready for my 13:48 connecting train bound for Odesa. The train from Khmelnytskyi to Odesa costs 550 UAH and I arrived in Odesa at 20:39, just after sunset.
You can book your bus ticket from Kamianets-Podilskyi to Khmelnytskyi in advance at 12Go and book your train from Khmelnytskyi to Odesa via 12Go as well or through Tickets.ua.
Day 20 - 22: Odesa (3 Nights)
Odesa is the type of city you don't see very often. Elsewhere, having a Gothic-style building in one corner, a Soviet-era apartment in another, and a colorful Turkish-inspired house in between would be such a mess, but somehow, in Odesa, it works.
Built by foreigners and refugees, the city's identity began to shape itself over time, creating this chaotic yet beautiful blend of cultures that we will be exploring for 2 full days.
You can see almost all the tourist attractions in Odesa in one day, thanks to them all being located in the city center. You can start your day walking down the Derybasivska Main Street, checking out the Odesa Opera House, hop on a funicular down the Potemkin Stairs to check out its optical illusion, and stroll through Tarasa Shevchenka Park before spending your evening at the Lanzheron beach.
One of the things you must do in Odesa is try their delicious seafood, and the restaurant I would recommend is Kotelok, located near Cathedral Square.
For 240 UAH, you will get a bucket of mussels in whichever flavor you choose to indulge yourself in. I cannot stress how delicious the food at Kotelok is, so if you are in Odesa, be sure to drop by there.
Did you know that there is an extensive network of catacombs under Odesa, just like in Paris but way bigger? That is what we are going to explore on our second day in the city.
The Wild Catacomb tour is one of the highlights of extreme activities to do in Odesa, where you can explore the man-made labyrinths with a local catacomb enthusiast. You can book the Wild Catacomb Tour through Tripadvisor in advance for 450 UAH.
The guide will take you to a town called Usatove where, from the outside, you wouldn't think that there would be an extensive network of catacombs underneath it, and yet there is.
Even the entrance doesn't look like it would lead to anywhere interesting, but then, when you get in and the guide takes you to see a room full of writings, living rooms, and a small church, you will realize how big and elaborate the catacomb actually is.
Exploring the catacombs in Odesa was definitely the highlight for me, so if you are interested in doing something unique and you do not have claustrophobia, be sure to book a trip with Wild Catacomb before you visit Odesa.
Where to Stay in Odesa?
Getting from Odesa to Kharkiv
There is an overnight train that leaves at 19:21 from Odesa and arrives in Kharkiv at 8:21 AM that you can take. I took that train, and it costs 250 UAH and takes around 13 hours before arriving in Kharkiv.
From Odesa center, I would recommend you to call an Uber or Uklon to get to the Odesa train station in time for your overnight train. When you arrive in Kharkiv, the train station is centrally located, so you can simply walk to your accommodation without any problem.
You can book your overnight train from 12Go or Tickets.ua.
Day 23 - 25: Kharkiv (3 Nights)
Last but not least, we are traveling a little east to the second-largest city in Ukraine, Kharkiv. Kharkiv is often overlooked when it comes to traveling in Ukraine, but like most rewarding beauties, you gotta look deeper to appreciate it, and I mean really deep, like underground deep.
As it turned out, Kharkiv's metro stations are the prettiest metro stations you will find in Ukraine. You can spend almost half a day just jumping from one metro station to another. I did just that when it was pouring outside and found 8 metro stations that you might like.
Other than the metro stations, there are also several really beautiful and standout architectures that you should not miss, such as the candy-striped Cathedral of Holy Annunciation, the Dormition Cathedral and its free-standing tower, the Holy Virgin Monastery, and many more.
There are also many cool brutalist-style architectures such as the massive Derzhprom, a complex of grey buildings with many windows built in the 1920s.
It was designed to look and feel random, but if you stand right at the center of the Freedom Square, the symmetry of the structure will become apparent to you.
Other than that, you can spend the rest of your days checking out all the beautiful parks such as the romantic Mirror Stream, Gorky Park where you can take one of these colorful small Soviet-era cable cars, or Shevchenko Park where the 50th Parallel North Latitude passes through.
Where to Stay in Kharkiv?
Getting from Kharkiv to Kyiv
The two cities are very well-connected, so you will have no problem finding a day train to Kyiv from Kharkiv, as well as an overnight one.
I personally took the day train as it is often shorter than the overnight one. I went with the one that leaves Kharkiv at 13:15 and arrives in Kyiv at 18:00. The journey took around 5 hours, and it cost me 404 UAH.
You can book your overnight train from 12Go or through Tickets.ua.
Kyiv (1 Night)
After 25 days in Ukraine, you deserve a good break. You can spend your last day in Ukraine indulging yourself in all the delicious local food from Puzata Hata or simply relax and enjoy the chill vibe in one of the many awesome cafes around the city.
More Ukraine Activities
If you are looking for more activities to do here, be sure to check out some of the available tours and day trips.
When to Visit Ukraine?
The best time to visit Ukraine is from June - September, when the weather is nice and warm, and summer activities are in full swing in vibrant cities like Kyiv and Lviv.
Usually, I do not recommend traveling in the mid-summer months in Europe due to the number of tourists you will encounter. But thankfully, Ukraine is not suffering from overtourism. In order to maximize sunny days while you are in Ukraine, it is best to travel around this period.
That said, the locals do still travel in their own country, so if you want to avoid the local crowd, be sure to visit touristic towns like Chernivtsi and Kamianets-Podilskyi on weekdays and spend your weekends in cities like Lviv and Kyiv, where all the cool events are happening.
How to Get to Ukraine?
There are several ways you can get to Ukraine: flying directly to Kyiv, the capital city of Ukraine; taking an overnight train across from Poland to Lviv; or hopping on an international bus from Moldova or Romania to Odesa.
Depending on where you are coming from, you can use this itinerary and travel in a circle from any of these 3 big cities, but for the sake of this one-month itinerary, I will recommend you start from Kyiv and go from there.
From the US, there is a direct flight from New York to Kyiv via Ukrainian Airline that you can take directly to Ukraine, or you can fly via several European airlines like KLM, Lufthansa, and Air France and transit through European airports to go to Kyiv.
From Europe, you can either fly with a low-cost airline like Ryanair or WizzAir, or you can simply travel by train from any of the main European hubs like Berlin through Poland. However, the time it takes to travel will increase considerably if you choose trains (24 hours from Berlin to Kyiv).
From Asia, the simplest option is to fly directly from Bangkok to Kyiv via Ukrainian Airline. It is cheap (costs me 300 USD) and flies directly to Kyiv in 11 hours.
To find a cheap flight to Ukraine, I would recommend you use Skyscanner or Expedia to look for the cheapest route and schedule so that you can compare and pick the best one.
Getting from Kyiv Airport to Kyiv Central Train Station
Kyiv Airport has an easy and affordable connection to the city center (Kyiv Central Train Station) directly from the airport via Skybus.
Skybus will take you from the airport bus terminal (follow the BUS sign, and you will find Skybus waiting for you outside the terminal) to Kyiv Central Train Station. The bus number is 322, so make sure you get on the right one.
Skybus operates from 5:40 to 23:30, and it runs every 30 to 60 minutes or so. The bus will cost you around 100 UAH, and they only accept cash. The journey will take you around 1 hour, depending on the traffic and the time you arrive.
How to Get Around Ukraine?
Getting Around in Cities
Walking is free and fun to do when you arrive in a new city in Ukraine. In most cases, the tourist attractions in Ukraine are within walking distance of the accommodation I recommended here, so you won't need to take any local transportation. However, if you want to, there are a few options available for you.
Local Buses/Marshrutkas are the main way you can get around in most cities in Ukraine. They are cheap and easily navigable with Google Maps, even if you don't read Cyrillic. However, you will need a local SIM card to navigate the Ukrainian bus lines.
To find the correct bus/marshrutka number to take in any city in Ukraine, you will have to enter your destination on Google Maps. The app will then recommend the route to take and the bus stop to reach. It is recommended to have Internet access if you plan to travel by local bus.
The way local buses work in Ukraine is pretty straightforward. It usually costs around 3 - 7 UAH per trip (depending on the city you are in). You get on, take a seat, and when you are about to arrive at your destination (use Google Maps to know where to get off), press the red stop button by the door, pay the driver, and get off.
Sometimes, there might be a person coming to collect the money while you are on the bus, so keep an eye out for that. If not, just pay the driver as you get off. They accept only cash.
For marshrutkas (minivans), you will have to tell the driver to stop. Just tap the driver on the shoulder and say "stop", and they will drop you off at the next stop.
Metro is a great way to get around a large city like Kyiv and Kharkiv. It's easy, straightforward, and you get to see the beautiful metro stations that you often find in post-Soviet cities like Kharkiv.
Trams/Trolleybuses are also a great way to get around a city. The Trolleybus works the same way as the regular bus, where you can pay the driver at the end. For trams, you will get the ticket from the driver when you get on, and you will have to stamp the time yourself with a manual stamp lever inside the tram. Both cost around the same price as the local bus (3 - 7 UAH per trip depending on which city).
Uber and Uklon are also great ways to travel around the city if the places you are going are a bit further or if you are in a rush. They are very cheap and quite reliable. Uber and Uklon are available in Kyiv, Lviv, Odesa, and Kharkiv.
Traveling Between Cities in Ukraine
Trains are my recommended way to travel long distances from one city to another. It's cheap, easy to book online, and Ukraine's train stations are very easy to navigate with a clear main schedule board that includes a platform number and time. Most of the signs at all train stations are also in English, as well as the ticket you receive, which should have all the information you need.
Unfortunately, the ticket is in Cyrillic, but do not sweat. I have mastered the ticket-reading skills through trial and error (lots of errors), and the image above shows you how to read the Ukrainian train ticket properly.
You can book your trains online through 12Go or Tickets.ua. You can simply pay with your credit card, and you will receive an email with a QR code. All you have to do is show it to the ticket master when you are on the train.
That said, trains may not run as often to some of the cities I have recommended here, and as I had hoped, and some routes, the train may only run overnight, which is not ideal. That's where the intercity Marshrutka/bus comes in.
Marshrutkas/Buses are an interesting and alternative way to travel short distances around Ukraine. It is a little harder to navigate, especially when it comes to finding the right marshrutkas/buses to get on at a busy bus station like Kyiv, but it is not impossible. You just need to be patient and spare some time for confusion and panic (just kidding ๐).
You can book your bus ticket online from 12Go. Depending on which bus you take, you will have to find the right one and board the correct bus. Make sure to be at the bus station at least 30 minutes before your bus departure time as you may need to ask locals, who rarely speak English, where your bus is.
I found that learning what your destination name is in Cyrillic, writing it down, and asking other bus drivers where your bus is by showing the bus company name, destination, and time shown on your bus ticket is the most effective way to get around their chaotic bus system.
This is why I recommend you take the train instead, if you have the option. But if not, for example, for the route from Kyiv to Lutsk and Lutsk to Lviv, simply follow the instructions above and you should be fine.
Planes are also an option if you do not fancy traveling overnight on a train, but it will be more expensive. Fortunately, with my itinerary breaking your trip into many stops, you won't be required to take a plane at all if you don't want to.
How Much Money Do I Need for Ukraine?
Ukraine is quite affordable, and with the one-month itinerary I have in mind, we can calculate approximately how much money you will need for the entire trip. Let's start with the basics:
Accommodation: 25 nights x 10 USD = 250 USD (6,043 UAH)
Food: (100 UAH x 3 meals per day) x 26 days = 7,600 UAH (322 USD)
Transportation: 1,912 UAH (6 trains) + 485 UAH (2 buses) + 100 UAH (local transportation) = 2,497 UAH (100 USD)
Activities: 3,825 UAH (158 USD)
Total Budget for 30 Days in Ukraine: 21,877 UAH (905 USD)
Keep in mind that these are very rough estimates and may vary depending on activities (I've included Chernobyl as well as Wild Odesa Catacomb tours under activities) you want to do and where you choose to stay. Please use this only as a guide to your budget for spending one month in Ukraine.
Is it Safe in Ukraine?
You may have heard many bad things about what was happening in Ukraine from the news of the revolution that broke out in 2014, but that was a long time ago and most of the conflicts are contained only in the most eastern front of the country where we are not going, so rest assured, traveling to Ukraine is very safe, even more so than Western Europe, as pickpockets and petty thefts are not as rampant as in big cities like Cologne and Prague.
Just keep in mind the dropping money scam in Kyiv where someone will walk in front of you, drop a stack of money, and ask if you want to share the money with them.
Someone will then approach you and claim that you stole his money and will ask to see your wallet as proof. He will then empty all the contents of your wallet and disappear. When this happens, simply ignore and continue on.
As mean as it sounds, if someone drops something in front of you, do not stop and pick it up. Just walk on as if nothing happened and you will be fine.
Visa for Ukraine
Ukraine has recently opened up the country a little to non-European visitors with an E-Visa process, so if you are among those from countries listed here, you can get your e-visa from their official website.
Which tourist SIM card is best for Ukraine?
Update: If your phone supports eSIM, I highly recommend checking out Airalo, a global eSIM marketplace. It allows you to stay connected affordably while traveling in Ukraine without having to switch out your physical SIM card.
Gone are the days when you needed to scramble to find a local SIM card at an airport upon arrival. You can purchase an eSIM before your arrival, and you'll be good to go. If your phone doesn't support eSIM, here is how you can get a local SIM card in Ukraine:
WIFI is widely available and reliable in big cities like Kyiv, Lviv, Odesa, and Kharkiv where you can simply go to a cafe and be at your hostel/hotels to stay connected.
In places like the Carpathians, it will be a little harder to find a WIFI spot, but it is not impossible. Most tourist restaurants and cafes have reliable WIFI, so you can always rely on them. However, if you want a more self-reliant solution, I would recommend getting a local SIM card. This will also help you navigate the bus system in Ukraine, as Google Maps works very well in the country.
You can get a local SIM card from Vodafone or Kyivstar. They both offer similar plans with data ranging from 2GB to unlimited, costing between 55 UAH - 220 UAH.
For more information about Ukraine local SIM card: Ukraine Prepaid Data SIM Card.
Tips: To stay connected with people at home, be sure that you have a VPN, such as ProtonVPN, installed before traveling. It's FREE, and you can gain access to services that may be blocked in certain countries.
What to Pack for Ukraine?
As you may already know, I am an advocate of light traveling, and indeed, packing light for a journey like this is a unique art form. Here are some packing tips for your upcoming trip to Ukraine:
- Walking/Hiking Shoes: With all the walking and possible hiking during your travel, a comfortable pair of shoes is a must. I recommend the Timberland 3-Eye Classic Boat Shoes that are my go-to pair for long strolls and hikes.
- Breathable Shirts: Given the potential for hot weather, pack a few breathable shirts for your outdoor adventures.
- Shorts/Jeans: Anticipate lots of walking during your travels? Be sure to pack some breathable shorts and a pair of Levi's jeans for when the weather cools. For women, leggings are excellent for both hot and cold climates, so consider packing some as well.
- Fleece Jacket: For colder weather, layering is the key, and a fleece jacket makes an excellent insulating layer. I recommend the Columbia Steens Mountain Fleece (for women).
- Outer Shell Jacket: An outer shell jacket is great for windy or rainy conditions. I highly recommend the Columbia Watertight Jacket (for women). It's lightweight, breathable, and even comes in a cool orange color.
- Microfiber Towel: A Microfiber towel is the ideal backpacker's towel due to its lightness, quick drying, and compressibility.
- Camera: You should also pack a good camera for your trip so that you can capture all the beautiful experiences you might have. I recommend the Sony a7R V camera together with the Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM II lens, which is probably the highest-performance camera and lens combination you can get right now.
- Power Bank: Keep your electronics charged on the go with a 20,000+ mAh Power Bank.
- Water Bottle: The Hydro Flask Trail Water Bottle is a great insulated water bottle to have with you in cities or on hiking trails. It is lightweight and can keep your water cold or warm for more than 12 hours. It's a total game-changer.
- Universal Adapter: You'll need just one universal adapter to plug in your electronics in any country you visit.
- Packing Cubes: Packing Cubes will help you save space in your backpack and keep all your belongings organized.
- Daypack: The Langly Alpha Globetrotter is my go-to everyday camera backpack. It's large enough to carry all my travel gear, and it comes with plenty of slots and pouches. Plus, it's stylish as hell!
- Large Backpack: You will need a large backpack to carry all of your stuff. I recommend the Osprey Atmos AG 65L backpack. With excellent weight distribution and a lifetime guarantee, you can't go wrong with Osprey.
For more information on what I pack in my backpack for this trip, check out: My Packing List: 60 Travel Essentials.
Now that we have all the information we need, it's time to start planning your trip! Here are some resources to help you get going:
Are you planning to travel independently? Be sure to check out my guide on How To Plan A Backpacking Trip here.
Further Reading for Ukraine
Looking for more information for your trip to Ukraine? Here are a collection of articles about Ukraine that might help you with your trip planning:
- Looking for a complete backpacking itinerary for Europe? Here is the 3-Month Itinerary for Europe.
- Packing for a trip to visit a region as big as Europe is extremely daunting. Here's a packing guide to help you: What to Pack for Europe - The Essential Packing List.
- Want to visit Europe in winter? Better prepare for the cold. Here's a winter packing guide to help you: What to Pack for Europe in Winter - The Essential Packing List.
- Ukraine has recently loosened up its borders a little for non-European travelers with an E-Visa program. Here is my experience applying for an E-Visa for Ukraine and things I wish I knew before applying.
- Of course, one of the reasons why you are visiting Ukraine is to learn more about the Chernobyl nuclear disaster, and what better way to learn about it than to go into the field and see it with your own eyes. Here is a complete guide on how to visit Chernobyl.
- If you think Kyiv is only good for Chernobyl and Brutalist architecture enthusiasts, then you are in for a big surprise when you find out how awesome the city is. Here are the top 18 things to do in Kyiv, Ukraine.
- Are you a coffee snob like I am? If so, then you will love Kyiv and its unmatched indie cafe culture. Here are 8 best indie cafes you should check out in Kyiv, Ukraine.
- The Tunnel of Love is one of the most photogenic attractions in Ukraine, and it would be a shame to miss it on your trip to Ukraine. Here's a complete guide on how to visit the Tunnel of Love independently.
- Thinking of visiting the Tunnel of Love and not sure where to base yourself out of? I would recommend Lutsk, and here are 8 best things to do that will make you fall in love with Lutsk.
- Lviv is the cultural capital city of Ukraine. It is what St. Petersburg is to Russia, Prague is to Czechia, and Krakow is to Poland. It is the most European city out of all Ukraine, and it has so many things to do, you will need a great guide to navigate it. Here are 10 Best Things you should do in Lviv, Ukraine.
- Lviv is another great city to go cafe-hopping if you love coffee, and here are my Top 10 Cozy Cafes in Lviv you should check out.
- Getting bored of cities? How about we go and hike some of the stunning trails in the Carpathian Mountains? Here is a complete hiking guide to Yaremche and the Carpathian Mountains in Ukraine.
- One of the most impressive architectural wonders in Ukraine is Chernivtsi National University in Chernivtsi, a remnant from the Austro-Hungarian Empire era that still survives today. Here are 7 Best Things to Do in Chernivtsi, Ukraine.
- Kamianets-Podilskyi, an island city home to Kamianets-Podilskyi Castle, one of the most beautiful castles in Ukraine, is a place that seems like it came straight out of a fairy tale and a place that you should not miss. Here's a backpacking guide and top 8 things to do in Kamianets-Podilskyi.
- Odesa is known as the Pearl of the Black Sea, and in order to understand why, you will need to dive deep into its history and even further down underground into its infamous catacombs. Here is a complete guide on tourist attractions and 8 great things to do in Odesa.
- You may not have heard of Kharkiv before, but once you see what I saw when I was traveling in that city, your mind will be blown away by how beautiful it is. Here are the 10 best things to do in Kharkiv, Ukraine.
- Did you know that Kharkiv is also home to the prettiest metro stations in Ukraine? Here are 8 of the most beautiful metro stations to check out in Kharkiv.
- My words are not convincing you about traveling to Ukraine? How about you see it for yourself with my Ukraine travel video? Ukraine Beyond Travel Video
- Want to know where to go after Ukraine? How about visiting Poland, dropping by Kosice in Slovakia, or going bar-hopping in Budapest, Hungary? We have travel guides for those too.
- For all articles about Ukraine, visit Ukraine Travel Guide page.
- You can see all my Eastern Europe-related articles on my Eastern Europe Travel Guide page.
- You can also see all of my Europe-related articles here: Europe Travel Guide page.
- For more of my travel guides like this, visit my Destinations page.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links.
13 Comments
Hi Pete
Just wanted to say thanks for the helpful blogs. I'll be going to Ukraine in April 2020 and find your information very useful. Keep up the good work.
Hey Hsin,
Thank you for the comments and the kind words! I'm glad you found the guide useful! Enjoy Ukraine! It's an amazing country to travel in :)
Hi Pete, really enjoyed your blog very much ! Would love to go there one day , so interesting learning about Ukraine. See your in Thailand at the moment . I lived there for two years about 15 years ago and traveled most of the country . I would recommend Mae Hong Son north Thailand. Take care , kind regards Clive
Hi Pete,
Thank you so much for this blog. Iโm currently in Ukraine, just finished Yaremche and on my way to Chernivtsi. Your itinerary was spot on and I enjoyed everything so far. The only challenge is the language, especially in the small cities where no one speaks English but overall Ukraine is underrated as a destination and amazing.
Hey David, That's great to hear that you found the guide useful! You will love Chernivtsi. I had a great time there. The university is amazing! I'm you also made it to the Carpathians. You are right. Not many can speak english but they are mostly helpful and will try their best to help you so that's a plus. :) I'm glad you are enjoying Ukraine! It really is a true hidden gem. :)
Hey Clive,
Thank you! I highly recommend Ukraine. Lovely country, interesting people. :) And yes, I plan to travel around my own country a bit especially during this COVID time as it seems I wont be able to go anywhere any time soon. :)
You say that overnight trains are not a good option, but I believe exactly the opposite. Sleeper car compartments have 2 seats facing 2 seats (very social). At night the conductor comes with clean sheets, blankets, & pillows, and by moving panels up & down converts the 4 seats into 4 bunk beds. So instead of sitting up all night as you would on a plane or driving a car, you sleep in a real bed with clean sheets & blanket, rocked to sleep by the gentle rolling of the train. So much for trains being "time consuming."
Many a traveler doesnโt know to ask for "a compartment" (day) or "a sleeper wagon" (night), and they get stuck sitting all night in an airplane style seat, all the seats facing forward. Not only is it boring, but the seats only recline one inch, so no sleep. Find out the words before you get in line to buy a ticket; write them on a piece of paper and give it to the ticket window clerk:
. . . . . . . . . . . . . NIGHT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . DAY
English . . . sleeper wagon . . . . . . . . compartment
French . . . . . voiture-lits . . . . . . . . . . compartiment
German . . . Schlafwagon . . . . . . . . . . Zugabteile
Italian . . vagone di cuccette . . . . . scompartimento
Spanish . . . coche-cama . . . . . compartimento de 6 personas
Russian . . ัะฟะฐะปัะฝัะต ะฒะฐะณะพะฝ . . . . . . . ะบัะฟะต (koupay)
. . . . . . . . . (spalney vagon)
Thanks for the info Josef but I actually recommend taking overnight trains many times in the article. I took one myself from Odesa to Kharkiv and i had no problems with it so I am not where you got that impression from. ๐
Hey Pete, really enjoying your blog, so thank you!
As a person who is crazy about space (as you stated in your Moscow guide), you missed a couple of places on your trip to Ukraine, namely Korolyov Museum of Cosmonautics in his hometown Zhytomyr (quite close from Kyiv) A and the Rocket park in Ukrainian hometown of Spacecraft manufacturing, Dnipro.
Still, Ukraine is such a huge country, one month is definitely not enough to see everything, and you chose some great locations for the first visit of the country, so thank you!
Hey Danylo,
These are some really great suggestions that I definitely did not know about! Thank you for these! I'll definitely have to check out when I get back there. I am definitely a space nerd haha.