The Ultimate Hiking Guide to Ukraine's Carpathians

Recommended Hiking Trails for the Carpathian Mountains in Ukraine

Hiking Makovytsia Mountain in Yaremche

You will have a chance to explore one of the attractions in Yaremche here before you start the trail. As you walk along the railroad southward, you will arrive at a parking lot on your right leading to Probiy Waterfall. Now you have the option to go right to the waterfall or go left across the road up to Mt. Makovytsia trailhead. For now, we will follow the hiking trail and leave Probiy Waterfall for later.

After crossing the road, you will arrive at a ticket booth where you will have to pay a 30 UAH fee for park entrance. Once you have entered the park, simply follow the well-marked trail up the mountain. Now, you are on your way to the summit of Mt. Makovytsia.

For about 15 minutes, you will arrive at an observation deck where you will get a glimpse of the view of Yaremche from above. However, you are still 2 hours away from the summit, so do not rest for too long.

From there, it's a steady climb up the mountain. Thankfully, the trail here is mostly under tall trees, which help alleviate the heat from direct sunlight a bit.

If you think you might get lost, be sure to follow these yellow-white stripes painted on trees and rocks along the trail. If you are still unsure, you can rely on Maps.me, as I did, and just follow the trail shown on the app.

Occasionally, you will find a sign pointing to "Маковиця", which means Makovytsia in Cyrillic. After hiking for about 45 minutes, you will have the option to go right and continue on a side trail toward Dovbush rocks. We can leave that for when we are coming down.

Hiking up for another 45 minutes, and you will arrive at a ridge where the trail becomes exposed. From there, you will be able to see the summit of Mt. Makovytsia as well as Yaremche from above, a view that will get better and better as you climb.

From there, the trail should be very clear, and all you have to do is follow the path for another 20 minutes until you find a cafe. You can rest here for a bit, or you can continue for another 10 minutes to the top.

This large stretch is quite a steep climb, and you will be directly under the sun for the entire time, making it quite challenging. But once you are up there, you will have one of the best views of the Carpathian mountains, its rolling hills, valleys, and mountains, and Yaremche from above.

Once you are at the top, you should also continue and walk a little bit south to see the Carpathians from the other side. The green rolling hills of the Carpathians seem to go on forever from this side.

When I was up there, I met a lovely mother-daughter duo from Kyiv who had climbed all the way up from Yaremche together, just like I did. We took a photo together to commemorate our accomplishment. Ukrainians aren't known for being very sociable, but in the mountains, everyone becomes friends, even with the language barrier. I met her again when we took the same train out of Yaremche. A great random memory of the Carpathians.

Now, remember the side trip I told you about previously? We can do that on our way down. Simply follow the trail back the same way and turn right at the intersection located at 48.441974, 24.559603 on the map (input that on Maps.me to see the exact location).

From there, you will have to go left (on your way down) instead of going down the same way and follow the trail to 48.440266, 24.563683 (again, put that coordinate on Maps.me as the location of Dovbush Rock isn't clear on the app), and you will arrive at Dovbush Rock, a significant sight for the history of the people living in the Carpathians back in the day.

From Dovbush Rock, I would recommend that you go south instead of going back the same way, so you can see a different trail on your way back. Go south and stick to your right for about an hour, and you should arrive right back at the highway here.

From there, you can simply walk along the road up north until you arrive at the Probiy Waterfall parking lot again where you can drop by or head back to your accommodation and visit another time. For more information about Probiy Waterfall, check out our Other Things to Do section.

Hiking Hoverla, the Highest Mountain in Ukraine

As mentioned earlier, you will have to rely on a local tour company to take you there and back, as the Mt. Hoverla trailhead is 50 km south of Yaremche. You can pick any local tour company you find in Yaremche, as they are pretty much the same.

The people selling these tours are often under green or blue umbrellas along the main street in Yaremche, and all you have to do is go up to them. Tell them which day you want to go, and they will tell you where to meet, what time to meet, and what to prepare.

The tour usually begins at 9 AM at the main street opposite the Nativity of John the Baptist Church, and it will take you to the trailhead in about 1.5 hours.

When you arrive at the parking lot, you will have a chance to buy breakfast, coffee, and use the toilet before your hike begins. Since the tour comes with a guide, you will have to wait for him/her to gather the group and explain something in Ukrainian (I wish I knew what my guide was saying). But afterward, you can tell your guide that you are going ahead first if you hike fast or simply follow the group.

In my experience, they were REALLY slow, so I would suggest that you do the same as I did and give your guide a heads up. If you think you are lost, just backtrack to the intersection and wait for your group.

The trail is a bit tricky at the beginning but once you get out of the forest and start climbing up, it is pretty straightforward. Otherwise, just follow Maps.me and you will do just fine.

After about 15 minutes in the forest, the trail will become exposed most of the time. Be sure to put on some sunblock before. The vista from then on is nothing short of extraordinary, though.

From the exposed trail, it will be a solid 2 hours of climbing up the steep trail until you arrive at the summit. You might be surprised at how many people are doing this trail, but since it is the highest mountain in Ukraine and is considered a pilgrimage trail for Ukrainians, it is understandable.

Congratulations, you are now at the top of Ukraine! Now you can see the Carpathians in their full glory from both sides of Hoverla. The beautiful rolling green hills and mountains of the Carpathians stretch as far as the eye can see!

Up at the top, it can get very windy and cold, so if you are in need of a hot beverage, fear not. There were a few locals who were selling hot drinks and snacks to tourists at an inflated price, but you deserve a reward, so get yourself a coffee, sit, and enjoy the view.

You might arrive a little faster than your tour group, so just relax and enjoy your time up there. Once you are ready to go down and your guide has arrived, be sure to tell him that you are heading down. The way down is pretty straightforward and takes only an hour or 1.5 hours to complete.

Once everyone in your group arrives back at the parking lot, you will start heading back to Yaremche. Another 1.5-hour ride and you should be back in Yaremche, strong and proud! Time to celebrate your accomplishment with a well-deserved meal at Krasna Sadyba Restaurant!

Where to Stay in Yaremche?

Budget

Guest House Mansarda

Dorm | $

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👍 Top Pick

Mid-Range

Girske Povitria 2

Double Room | $$

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High-End

Baron SPA Hotel - Museum Yaremche

Double Room with Spa Access | $$$

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Where to Eat and Drink in Yaremche?

Eat Local Food at Krasna Sadyba Restaurant

Krasna Sadyba Restaurant has got to be my favorite restaurant in Yaremche. They serve real, authentic Ukrainian food, as well as grilled steaks and fish for you to indulge yourself in.

The restaurant is in the center, yet it's tucked away in the corner where it overlooks the thick green forest of the Carpathians. The interior is also cozy and spacious, with a fire and oven where they grill their meat and seafood for you. There is no better way to treat yourself after hiking Hoverla than to feast at Krasna Sadyba Restaurant.

Have a Cup of Coffee at Barberry

If you are looking for a nice cup of coffee or a sandwich to relax during the day, Barberry is a great place to be. They serve great coffee, desserts, and ice cream, as well as sushi if you are somehow craving it in Ukraine 😅.

Other Things to Do in Yaremche

1. Visit Probiy Waterfall

As mentioned before, Probiy Waterfall is a nice place to stop on your way to hike Mt. Makovytsia. The waterfall is an 8-meter-high rushing waterfall on the Prut River with restaurants, souvenir shops, and an observation bridge that you can explore.

2. Check Out th Nativity of John the Baptist Church in Yaremche

The Nativity of John the Baptist Church is one stunning church to visit in Yaremche. With its red brick exterior, golden domes, and central location, the Nativity of John the Baptist Church is probably one of the most iconic architectural structures in the city, and it is just across the main street from Yaremche train station.

3. Buy Authentic Carpathian Souvenirs

The Carpathians are rich in culture that is totally different from what you might find in Kyiv or Lviv. So, if you are looking for unique gifts from your trip in the Carpathians for your friends and family, be sure to check out some of the souvenir markets in Yaremche.

There is a big one at Probiy Waterfall across the bridge, and there is another souvenir market just before the main road crosses Prut River South from the main area where the church is in Yaremche.

4. Visit Bukovel, Ukraine Largest Ski Area

Last but not least, you can go on a day trip to Bukovel, one of the largest ski resort areas in Ukraine. During the summertime, there are several activities you can do there, such as hiking and taking a panoramic lift for a stunning view of the city and the landscape around it.

Needless to say, if you have a day to spare, I would recommend spending it in Bukovel. To get there, you can take a 40-minute bus ride from Yaremche to Bukovel and back for only 2 USD.

You can book the bus from 12Go or you can also charter a taxi for around 400-500 UAH both ways, including wait time.

When to Visit the Carpathian Mountains in Ukraine?

If you are interested in summiting Mt. Hoverla, the highest mountain in Ukraine, the trail opens from May - September, so anywhere between this period is the best time to visit Yaremche in the Carpathian Mountains in Ukraine.

Due to its higher altitude, the weather can be quite cool even in the summer. You should be able to hike in shorts and t-shirts around Yaremche in the summer months of June - August just fine, but you will need windproof and insulating jackets for Hoverla even during the hottest time of the year as the temperature hovers around 6°C - 17°C and can go down to -2°C during shoulder seasons.

Where to Base to Hike the Carpathian Mountains in Ukraine?

Within the Carpathian Mountains in Ukraine, many people have suggested several places to base yourself out of, such as Ivano-Frankivsk or Kolomyya. However, from my personal experience, none of these cities are actually in the mountains, and they are not the ideal locations if you are planning to hike in the Carpathian Mountains.

The best base to go hiking in the Carpathian Mountains in Ukraine is Yaremche, a town further south from Ivano-Frankivsk and Kolomyya. Yaremche is surrounded by mountains, making it a great place to base yourself in the Carpathian Mountains. There is even an epic day hike you can do straight from the city in Yaremche.

Local tour companies also run transfer services to many of the mountains in the region, so you can easily get information on hiking trails here and start hiking. The town is also easily accessible from Lviv with a 5-hour direct train.

Yaremche used to be a remote sleepy town that was not worth staying in back in the day, but now, as of 2019, the city has developed so much that it is now the best place to use as a base for exploration in the Carpathian Mountains.

They now have cheap hostels as well as expensive resorts, good restaurants, and transportation options. If you are looking for a base to go hiking in Ukraine's Carpathians, Yaremche is the place to be.

How to Get to Yaremche?

In order to get to Yaremche, first and foremost, you will have to get yourself to Ukraine, and there are two major cities you can fly into: Kyiv and Lviv.

Lviv is much closer to the Carpathian Mountains, so I would recommend that you fly there. Unfortunately, it is not a big hub, and if you are traveling from outside of Europe, you will likely have to go through Kyiv.

To find a cheap flight to Kyiv, I would recommend that you use Skyscanner or Expedia to look for the cheapest route and schedule so you can compare and pick the best one.

After you arrive in Kyiv, there are several overnight trains and buses that go directly to Yaremche. The journey should take around 10 hours by bus and 16 hours by train. You can check the train and bus schedules at Tickets.ua. If you cannot find Yaremche, try copying and pasting Яремче into the search bar. Iaremche should appear, which is the same as Yaremche.

If you are already in Lviv, there are 3 direct trains that you can take. I took the one that leaves at 06:35 and arrives at 11:01. The journey took 4.5 hours and cost around 150 UAH.

You can book your trains online through 12Go or through Tickets.ua. You can simply pay with your credit card, and you will receive an email with a QR code. All you have to do is show it to the ticket master when you are on the train.

How to Get Around Yaremche and the Carpathian Mountains in Ukraine?

One of the reasons why Yaremche is such a good base for hiking in the Carpathians is that the town sits right in the middle of a valley, so you are within walking distance of many mountains, such as Mt. Makovytsia, and only a 30-minute car ride away from Hoverla, the highest mountain in Ukraine.

Yaremche is a small town, and so most of the attractions and things to do are within walking distance. For places further away like Bukovel and Mt. Hoverla, you will either have to take a bus or a shared transfer service, which can be booked in Yaremche.

For more information on local tour companies and the day trips they are operating, you can check out Yaremche Official portal. Unfortunately, they are all in Russian or Ukrainian, but you can use Google Translate to translate them into English and get some ideas on the day trips they offer.

How to Get to Mt. Hoverla from Yaremche?

To get to Mt. Hoverla from Yaremche, you will have to rely on a shared minivan operated by local tour companies that take day-trippers to the trailhead every day.

When you arrive, you will have no trouble finding these local tour companies, as you will be bombarded with people giving you brochures of different local tour companies offering similar trips at the same local rate (very cheap). They are all pretty much the same, to be honest, so you can pick whichever.

I went with Karpaty company where they have their green umbrella booking person at the Fountain across the road from the Nativity of John the Baptist Church in Yaremche.

You can book a day trip from one of these people under an umbrella that is everywhere along Yaremche's main street. Pay them and show up at the right time the next day.

The day trip includes 2-way transfers from Yaremche to Hoverla trailhead and a non-English speaking guide to guide you along the trail. It costs 300 UAH per person, and the tour begins at 9 AM. You will be back in Yaremche by 6 PM.

How Many Days to Spend in Yaremche and the Carpathian Mountains in Ukraine?

There are quite a few hikes and day trips you can do from Yaremche, so I would say that spending at least 2 full days is recommended in Yaremche.

Day 1: Spend your first day exploring Yaremche, visit the Probiy Waterfall on your way to hike the Makovytsia mountain, a 7 km hiking trail that will take you 3 hours to climb and 2 hours to descend. Make sure to book a tour to Mt. Hoverla for tomorrow before you end your first day.

Day 2: A day trip to summit Mt. Hoverla. It will take the whole day from 9 AM - 6 PM.

Day 3 (extra): Visit Bukovel for a day and spend the rest of the day back in Yaremche.

How Much Money Do I Need for Yaremche?

Yaremche is a resort town, so things may not be as cheap as you would hope, but still very affordable compared to Western standards. Let's begin our calculation based on a minimum 2-day, 3-night stay.

Accommodation: 10 USD per night, so 30 USD (758 UAH) total.

Food: The food costs around 100 UAH per meal, totaling 300 UAH for a day. However, since we will be hiking both days, we can deduct 50 UAH because you will have to prepare your own lunch. In total, it will be 500 UAH for 2 days of food.

Transportation: For this itinerary, you will only pay for the trip to Mt. Hoverla, so the total will be 300 UAH.

Activities: Both hiking trails, Mt. Makovytsia and Mt. Hoverla, will require you to pay for the park entrance fee, which is 30 UAH each, so a total of 60 UAH.

Total Budget for Hiking in Yaremche for 2 days: ~1,618 UAH (64 USD).

Is it Safe in Yaremche?

Like most of western Ukraine, Yaremche is very safe. It's a small mountain town, so petty thefts are almost nonexistent. You are safe to hike around carefree.

Which tourist SIM card is best for Yaremche?

Update: If your phone supports eSIM, I highly recommend checking out Airalo, a global eSIM marketplace. It allows you to stay connected affordably while traveling in Yaremche, Ukraine without having to switch out your physical SIM card.

Gone are the days when you needed to scramble to find a local SIM card at an airport upon arrival. You can purchase an eSIM before your arrival, and you'll be good to go. If your phone doesn't support eSIM, here is how you can get a local SIM card in Yaremche, Ukraine:

The hostel I stayed at did not have any WIFI, and I only found 2 restaurants with not fast but manageable WIFI. So, if you want to stay connected while in Yaremche, be sure to get a local sim card before you arrive.

You can either get the one from Vodafone or Kyivstar. They both offer similar plans with data ranging from 2GB to unlimited, costing between 55 UAH and 220 UAH.

For more information about Ukraine local SIM card: Ukraine Prepaid Data SIM Card.

Tips: To stay connected with people at home, be sure that you have a VPN, such as ProtonVPN, installed before traveling. It's FREE, and you can gain access to services that may be blocked in certain countries.

What to Pack and Things to Prepare before Hiking the Carpathian Mountains in Ukraine?

• Water bottles: It is recommended to have at least 2 liters of water for each trail you are doing. Ukraine in the summer can be quite hot, especially at a lower altitude trail like the one going up Mt. Makovytsia, so make sure you have enough water. I always carry my 2-liter hydration pack, which I recommend so you don't have to stop to stay hydrated.
• Sturdy shoes that can withstand muddy trails: The trail can get quite muddy if it rained the day before, so be sure your shoes can handle that. If it's been sunny, then a regular trainer should get the job done. These Timberland Shoes are my go-to hiking boots in most situations.
• Wind-proof and insulating jackets: This only applies to the Mt. Hoverla trail since it gets very windy and cold up there due to the altitude (2,061m) and the exposed trail. Here are the jackets I recommend you get for the trip: fleece jacket and the beautiful orange Columbia outer-shell jacket.
• Lunch and snacks: Both trails take around 5-6 hours, so you will have lunch and snacks while on the trail. Therefore, prepare some before you set out on the hikes.
• A Daypack: You will need a daypack to carry all your gear with you when you are out and about. During this trip, I used the Herschel Supply's Barlow Trail Collection Backpack to carry everything with me. It is lightweight with good capacity and stylish as hell.
• Maps.me: Maps.me has both hiking trails I recommended in this travel guide in case you get lost, so be sure to download the app and make it offline before you set out on the hike. The app is available on both Android and iOS. Make sure you download the offline maps before you hit the trail.

Check Out My Hiking Packing List

Now that we have all the information we need, it's time to start planning your trip! Here are some resources to help you get going:

Flights: Skyscanner and Expedia are the best places to start looking for cheap flights and great deals from your home country.

Accommodation: Hostelworld, Booking.com, and Agoda.com are the ultimate go-to platforms to search for amazing hostels and hotels at affordable prices.

Travel Insurance: Heymondo covers theft, medical emergencies, cancellations, and more during your travels. Get a 5% discount if you sign up today.

Transportation: Tickets.ua (Bus), 12go (Bus) and Tickets.ua (Train) are great places to look for bus and train schedule and buy tickets that would otherwise not have been available online.

Car Rental: DiscoverCars.com is a great and reliable platform to find rental cars.

Internet: Airalo is the best way to get a sim card and has reliable internet access for your trip. All you need is an esim compatible smartphone, install it on your phone prior to your trip, and you are all set.

VPN: To stay connected with people at home, I always make sure to have ProtonVPN, installed before traveling. It's FREE, and I can gain access to services that may be blocked in certain countries.

Day Trips & Tours: Viator, GetYourGuide and TripAdvisor are great platforms to search for trips and tours to join.

Tickets & Deals: Tiqets is always my go-to website when I want to find cheaper deals for entrance tickets to tourist attractions.

Are you planning to travel independently? Be sure to check out my guide on How To Plan A Backpacking Trip here.

Further Reading for Ukraine

Looking for more information for your trip to Ukraine? Here are a collection of articles about Ukraine that might help you with your trip planning:

• Looking for a complete backpacking itinerary for Europe? Here is the 3-Month Itinerary for Europe.
• Packing for a trip to visit a region as big as Europe is extremely daunting. Here's a packing guide to help you: What to Pack for Europe - The Essential Packing List.
• Want to visit Europe in winter? Better prepare for the cold. Here's a winter packing guide to help you: What to Pack for Europe in Winter - The Essential Packing List.
• Ukraine is one of the few hidden gems left in Europe, and in order to see the country and all it has to offer, you will need a complete travel guide. Here is a One Month Itinerary for Ukraine.
• Ukraine has recently loosened up its borders a little for non-European travelers with an E-Visa program. Here is my experience applying for an E-Visa for Ukraine and things I wish I knew before applying.
• Of course, one of the reasons why you are visiting Ukraine is to learn more about the Chernobyl nuclear disaster, and what better way to learn about it than to go into the field and see it with your own eyes? Here is a complete guide on how to visit Chernobyl.
• If you think Kyiv is only good for Chernobyl and Brutalist architecture enthusiasts, then you are in for a big surprise when you find out how awesome the city is. Here are the top 18 things to do in Kyiv, Ukraine.
• Are you a coffee snob like I am? If so, then you will love Kyiv and its unmatched indie cafe culture. Here are 8 best indie cafes you should check out in Kyiv, Ukraine.
• The Tunnel of Love is one of the most photogenic attractions in Ukraine, and it would be a shame to miss it on your trip to Ukraine. Here's a complete guide on how to visit the Tunnel of Love independently.
• Thinking of visiting the Tunnel of Love and not sure where to base yourself out of? I would recommend Lutsk, and here are 8 best things to do that will make you fall in love with Lutsk.
• Lviv is the cultural capital city of Ukraine. It is what St. Petersburg is to Russia, Prague is to Czechia, and Krakow is to Poland. It is the most European city out of all of Ukraine, and it has so many things to do that you will need a great guide to navigate it. Here are 10 Best Things you should do in Lviv, Ukraine.
• Lviv is another great city to go cafe-hopping if you love coffee, and here are my Top 10 Cozy Cafes in Lviv that you should check out.
• One of the most impressive architectural wonders in Ukraine is Chernivtsi National University in Chernivtsi, a remnant from the Austro-Hungarian Empire era that still survives today. Here are 7 Best Things to Do in Chernivtsi, Ukraine.
• Kamianets-Podilskyi, an island city home to Kamianets-Podilskyi Castle, one of the most beautiful castles in Ukraine, is a place that seems like it came straight out of a fairy tale and a place that you should not miss. Here’s a backpacking guide and top 8 things to do in Kamianets-Podilskyi.
• Odesa is known as the Pearl of the Black Sea, and in order to understand why, you will need to dive deep into its history and even further down underground into its infamous catacombs. Here is a complete guide on tourist attractions and 8 great things to do in Odesa.
• You may not have heard of Kharkiv before, but once you see what I saw when I was traveling in that city, your mind will be blown away by how beautiful it is. Here are the 10 best things to do in Kharkiv, Ukraine.
• Did you know that Kharkiv is also home to the prettiest metro stations in Ukraine? Here are 8 of the most beautiful metro stations to check out in Kharkiv.
• My words are not convincing you about traveling to Ukraine? How about you see it for yourself with my Ukraine travel video? Ukraine Beyond Travel Video
• Want to know where to go after Ukraine? How about visiting Poland? Drop by Kosice in Slovakia or go bar-hopping in Budapest, Hungary. We have travel guides for those too.
• For all articles about Ukraine, visit the Ukraine Travel Guide page.
• You can see all my Eastern Europe-related articles on my Eastern Europe Travel Guide page.
• You can also see all my Europe-related articles here: Europe Travel Guide page.
• For more of my travel guides like this, visit my Destinations page.