One Week Backpacking in Turkmenistan: Darvaza to Yangykala

Turkmenistan One Week Itinerary

Day 1: Crossed the border from Khiva and got picked up by Stantours at the border. Stopped by at Köneürgench for lunch and went to the Darvaza crater. Slept in a tent there for one night.

Day 2: Drive to Ashgabat. Stay in Ashgabat for one night.

Day 3: Another full day in Ashgabat.

Day 4: Fly to Turkmenbashi, get picked up by Stantours at the airport, and drive to Yangykala Canyon. Camp there for a night.

Day 5: Drive back to Ashgabat. Stay in Ashgabat for one night.

Day 6: One last full day in Ashgabat or make your way to the border you want to cross out.

Day 7: Either fly out from Ashgabat or cross the border to Iran, Azerbaijan, Uzbekistan, or Kazakhstan.

When to Visit Turkmenistan?

The most comfortable times for this itinerary are generally March to May and September to November. Spring and autumn avoid the harshest desert heat, although temperatures can still vary widely between Ashgabat, the Karakum Desert, and exposed places like Yangykala. Summer can be extremely hot, while winter nights in the desert can be very cold, so pack for the conditions rather than relying on the old 23 - 35°C range.

Things to Prepare Before Traveling to Turkmenistan

• Print your visa documents: Tourist travelers normally need a Letter of Invitation approved by the State Migration Service. Once you have the approved invitation, you can apply for the visa in advance or, where permitted for your entry point, obtain it on arrival. Carry a printed copy of the Letter of Invitation and confirm the exact procedure with your tour agency or Turkmen embassy before departure.
• Bring enough cash: Turkmenistan remains largely cash-based. Bring enough clean, undamaged US-dollar notes for your trip and exchange money through official banks or exchange points as needed. International ATMs in Ashgabat are limited and can run out of manat, so do not rely on it. Manat generally cannot be converted back, so avoid exchanging more than you need.
• Expect restricted and unreliable internet access: Internet access in Turkmenistan is heavily filtered, and many foreign websites, messaging services, and social platforms may be blocked or work inconsistently. Hotel Wi-Fi availability and performance vary, so download maps, bookings, important documents, and anything else you need offline before entering the country. Do not assume a particular VPN or circumvention app will work.

One Week Turkmenistan Itinerary

Day 1: Darvaza Crater (1 night)

The Darvaza gas crater, also known as the Gates of Hell, is probably one of the reasons why you are in Turkmenistan in the first place. It is still burning in 2026, but the sight has changed since my visit. Turkmen authorities have been extracting more gas from nearby wells, and both official reporting and satellite research show that the crater's gas supply and combustion intensity have declined substantially.

I found the crater most impressive after dark, but keep in mind that the glow is now much weaker than it was when I visited. Current reports say the flames are mainly noticeable from close range rather than from many kilometers away.

It is less impressive during the day, but still pretty amazing!

Day 2 - 4: Ashgabat (3 nights)

At first, Ashgabat can feel strange compared with other Central Asian capitals. When I visited, photography restrictions around government buildings and other sensitive locations took some getting used to, and the monumental white-marble center could feel unusually quiet during the day. Photography rules remain sensitive, so follow signs and instructions from local authorities and your guide rather than assuming a rule applies everywhere in the city.

Ashgabat is an architectural wonder, with many alien-looking white marble structures scattered all around the city. It is like Las Vegas but without the people.

Places like the Wedding Palace (Bagt köşgi), the Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow monument, Alem Center (Älem), Constitution Monument (Konstitusiýa binasy), Neutrality Monument (Bitaraplyk Binasy), and Independence Monument (Garaşsyzlyk binasy) are quite a sight to behold. When photographing monumental architecture, avoid assuming a location is unrestricted simply because photography was allowed during my visit; rules can be enforced differently around government and security-sensitive sites.

Here are all the places you should see if you like the over-the-top style of architecture that is abundant in Ashgabat. Personally, I love them!

Oguzhan Palace and other government or security-sensitive areas require particular caution with photography. During my visit, officials approached me, checked the images on my camera, and made me delete some of them. That was my firsthand experience, and it is still sensible to ask your guide before photographing government buildings, security personnel, or sensitive infrastructure.

Day 5 - 6: Yangykala Canyon (1 night)

Turkmenistan is at its best when you go outside of the city and to a remote area to camp. Yangykala canyon is one of the most spectacular natural sights in Turkmenistan. With its unique red, pink, and orange bands that stretch across the canyon walls, it is definitely worth visiting all the way out here.

The best spot to camp is on the windy plateau above the canyon, where you can enjoy a 180-degree view of Yangykala from above.

The sunrise and sunset are the best times to experience the canyon.

Daily Budget

This location leans a little towards the expensive side, where I find myself spending approximately $40 - $60 USD per day per person. Despite this, it remains fairly affordable.

Please keep in mind that these are suggested daily budgets based on my own style of travel, which leans more towards the budget side of things. If you aim to stick to this budget, anticipate sleeping in dormitories, dining out only occasionally, and being comfortable with the cheapest and most convenient modes of transportation, which often involve a considerable amount of walking.

How to Get Turkmenistan Visa?

Through Guided Tours (Expensive)

This is the option I chose. For a tourist visa, you generally need a Letter of Invitation from the State Migration Service, arranged with the help of a Turkmen travel agency. The approved invitation then forms the basis for your visa application. Confirm the exact itinerary, guide requirements, border crossings, and visa procedure with the agency before paying, because these conditions can change.

I traveled with Stantours and had a good experience with them on my trip. If you decide to go with Stantours, ask for a driver named Vova. They said the driver wouldn't be able to speak English, but Vova was more than capable of explaining the story behind the places you are visiting. Plus, he made a delicious grilled chicken for dinner in the desert.

For context, I paid 1,200 USD for this 7-day itinerary when I traveled, including accommodation, food, the vehicle, domestic flight, and visa-related arrangements. Treat that strictly as a historical price from my trip. Current tour prices, domestic airfare, visa fees, and inclusions can be very different, so request a fresh quote before budgeting.

Note: A Letter of Invitation or tour booking does not guarantee that a visa will be issued. My own application was rejected once before a later application was approved. Apply well ahead of your planned trip and avoid booking non-refundable onward arrangements until your entry documents are confirmed.

Get the Transit Visa Instead (Cheapest)

A transit visa remains a possible option for some travelers making a genuine short transit through Turkmenistan, but it is not a substitute for a normal tourist visa. You need approval from the State Migration Service in advance through a Turkmen embassy, and the current embassy guidance says the Letter of Invitation approval can take around one month.

The current embassy guidance allows a maximum of 5 days for a transit visa. Your application must specify the exact entry and exit dates and border points, and you need evidence for the countries you are entering from and traveling onward to where visas are required. You must follow the approved route and cannot convert a transit visa into a tourist visa after entry.

Visa and Letter of Invitation fees can change and may depend on the embassy processing your application. Check the current fee table from the Turkmen embassy handling your application.

For more updated information on obtaining the transit visa, please see this page.

How to Get to Turkmenistan?

You can fly into Ashgabat or enter overland through an approved border crossing if your visa and Letter of Invitation match that route. Land borders can close with little notice, so confirm the crossing with your tour agency and the relevant embassy shortly before traveling. Do not assume you can simply continue to Azerbaijan by sea: Azerbaijan currently restricts entry through land and sea borders, even though travelers already inside Azerbaijan can leave by sea. For flights, compare the current schedule for Ashgabat and check for regional airspace disruptions before departure.

How to Get Around Turkmenistan?

For a tourist itinerary like this, transport outside Ashgabat is usually best arranged through your Turkmen travel agency, especially for remote places such as Darvaza and Yangykala. Domestic flights also connect Ashgabat with cities including Turkmenbashy, Dashoguz, Mary, Turkmenabat, Balkanabat, and Kerki. The old statement that public transportation is completely nonexistent outside Ashgabat was too broad, but independent transport is still impractical for many sightseeing routes and restricted areas.

Within Ashgabat, city buses and licensed taxis are available. For taxis, use clearly marked licensed vehicles and agree on the fare when necessary. If you are traveling on a tourist itinerary, your guide or hotel can also help arrange local transport.