8 Days on the Pamir Highway: The Most Epic Road Trip Itinerary

Which Route to Pick for the Pamir Highway?

There are many routes to choose from, but after careful consideration, I decided to go with the traditional Pamir Highway route from Osh to Khorog through the Wakhan Valley, which diverts off from the Pamir Highway to Langar and gives me a chance to glimpse at Afghanistan from the Tajik side.

This route took us 7 days on a private jeep and an additional day on a public jeep from Khorog to Dushanbe. Here is my itinerary:

The Pamir Highway Itinerary, Highlights and Attractions

Day 1: Osh - Sary Mogul

On the first day of the trip, we set off from Osh to visit the Lenin Peak base camp and spent the night in Sary Mogul. The day started off slowly as we stopped for some supplies along the way. The scenery became more open and epic as the day went on, as you’ll see from the photos I took.

This day alone made me excited for what was to come, as the scenery shifted from city to mountains, to a large orange plain, and to a stunning view of snowy mountain range.

At the end of the day, you can choose to sleep at the yurt camp with a view of Lenin Peak for an additional cost, or stay in Sary Mongul. It was extremely cloudy and very, very cold when I was there, so we opted to stay in Sary Mongul instead. We couldn’t see Lenin Peak as it was shrouded in clouds, but it was still great to visit the camp and catch a glimpse of the surrounding mountains before calling it a night!

Where to Stay in Osh?

Budget

Park Hostel Osh

$ | Double Room

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Mid-Range

Asman Guest House

$$ | Double Room

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High-End

Rayan Hotel

$$$ | Double Room

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Day 2: Karakul Lake

The next day, we crossed the border from Kyrgyzstan to Tajikistan and continued our way up through No Man's land, past this famous ram statue, and stopped for a night at Karakul Lake.

Throughout the day, you’ll be driving along a vast and spacious paved road with grand views of the Pamir-Alay mountain ranges. You’ll also witness people herding their livestock, giving you a glimpse of what life is like up here. It's not something you get to see everyday!

Karakul Lake is definitely best experienced at sunset. I only caught a glimpse of it as the clouds rolled in, but it was still incredible to get some sunshine before the cold, dark night set in.

Day 3: Murghab

On the third day, we drove up the 4,655-meter-high Ak-Baital Pass, the highest point on this trip, and stopped in Murghab for the night. You’ll definitely feel the altitude, especially if you’ve never been this high before. Breathing becomes noticeably harder in the thin air, so take it slow. Don’t push yourself too much today, as your body needs time to adjust to the elevation.

Murghab is one of the most populated towns in the area, but if you’re expecting a proper town with all the facilities you might need, you’ll likely be disappointed. To me, Murghab feels more like a large settlement than a town. Still, it was incredibly interesting to walk around and explore its streets. You can’t help but wonder, how do people make a living in such a barren landscape?

Murghab sits at around 3,618 meters above sea level, and you’ll be spending the night here. If you haven’t acclimatized properly, you’ll definitely feel it, especially while trying to sleep. Trust me, I’m speaking from experience. I couldn’t sleep and found myself catching my breath throughout the night.

Not many people in our group slept well either, since most of us had come from Osh, which is only 963 meters above sea level. Jumping from 900 to 2,800 to over 4,000 meters didn’t give us enough time to acclimatize. So, expect a rough night. Thankfully, you’ll be descending after this, and you should start to feel better.

Just power through if you can! But if you start vomiting or can’t eat, let your guide know immediately, you may be experiencing severe altitude sickness, which can be dangerous.

Day 4: Bulunkul

On the fourth day, we set off early for Bulunkul to do some hiking around Bulunkul Lake. The drive will take a whole day as usual but the view started to become more surreal the closer you get to the lake.

Once you arrive, you can settle in at the guest house and spend the evening exploring the settlement and the lake. I did a nice hike here that took about three hours round trip. It was relatively easy in terms of terrain, but the high altitude definitely took a toll on my body.

That night at Bulunkul Lake was the coldest we experienced during the entire trip, as it was lightly snowing in the evening. This tends to happen in high-altitude places like this, so be sure to layer up before calling it a day. Guesthouses don’t have great insulation, and locals rely on layering to stay warm, so you should too. Thankfully, they do provide plenty of blankets, which definitely helps.

As the snow stopped in the morning, the entire landscape of Bulunkul transformed overnight. What had been orange hills and mountains was now an all-white, bright expanse, it was truly a sight to behold.

Day 5: Langar and the Wakhan Valley

The fifth day was quite exciting as we diverted from the Pamir Highway and drove through the beginning of the Wakhan Corridor, one of the most stunning regions on this trip and, hands down, my favorite. Here, you get a rare glimpse of what Afghanistan looks like from across the river, a surprisingly dreamlike landscape that you wouldn’t expect in a country like Afghanistan.

Visiting Afghanistan has always been a dream of mine, though ongoing conflicts have made it difficult to make that dream come true, at least for now. So this was probably as close as I’ll get to visiting Afghanistan for the time being! I hope that one day we’ll be able to cross this river and travel through Afghanistan properly.

The Wakhan Corridor was definitely one of the most beautiful stretches of the Pamir Highway. One of my friends brought a frisbee, and we stopped several times along the corridor, spending hours tossing it around while surrounded by the snowy mountains of Tajikistan and Afghanistan. It was such a surreal experience, one that still stays vivid in my mind to this day.

We spent the fifth night in Langar, a nice, cozy town tucked away within the Wakhan Valley. In the evening, we decided to walk around the town but ended up playing frisbee with the kids in a park. It was one of the best evenings we had, as we were able to experience firsthand how much they appreciated us being there, visiting their hometown.

The frisbee turned out to be a big hit with the kids. As we threw it around, more and more children from the neighborhood joined in, curious and eager to have some fun. It was such an unexpected and awesome experience with them. We were there for hours, so much so that the mothers eventually had to call their kids back home for dinner, haha 😂. Oops!

It was a little sad to say goodbye to them, but my goodness, it was such a memorable experience! I know I’ve said this a lot and it might sound like a cliché, but these are the kinds of memories that will stay with me for the rest of my life. If you want to make a difference to the children you meet along the Pamir Highway, don’t just bring snacks, bring toys instead. Snacks are nice, but toys will definitely make the children here incredibly happy, since they don’t have access to many.

Day 6: Ishkashim

On our sixth day, we continued along the Wakhan Corridor with several photo stops along the way. It was a relaxing day with plenty of time to chill, snap photos, and soak in the scenery as we traveled the ancient highway. You’ll see a stunning stretch of endless snowy mountain peaks on the Afghan side as the driver heads west to Ishkashim, where you’ll be spending the night.

Along the way, you’ll also stop at the Pamiri House Museum, a museum dedicated to preserving the history and culture of the people who have lived in the Pamir Mountains for centuries. Here, you can learn about all aspects of the Pamiri people, their culture and unique ways of life that allow them to thrive in such a barren terrain. It was definitely a much needed change from all the nature and mountains we just saw.

After the museum, we visited several ancient forts scattered around the area, living proof that this region was once part of the ancient Silk Road, connecting people here to the wider world. One of my favorite forts is the Yamchun Fortress, built in the 3rd century BC. My guide told me that excavations here revealed clues pointing to Zoroastrianism as a widely practiced belief system in the Pamirs back then.

After visiting the fortress, our guide took us to a sacred hot spring called the Bibi Fatima Hot Spring. It’s a small hot spring hidden inside a cave where you’re not allowed to wear anything in the water, to keep the sacred spring pure. Our group of eight, once strangers, now travel buddies, bathing naked together in the middle of nowhere in Tajikistan was definitely an unforgettable bonding experience 😂. Don’t worry, men and women are separated into different areas, so it was just us guys 😅.

After the hot spring, you'll head to Ishkashim, where you'll spend the night. The town is quite small, but you’ll start to feel like you’re inching closer to civilization. The guesthouse we stayed at was a noticeable upgrade from the previous nights, it had insulated walls and a warm shower. Definitely a much-needed change after several days of roughing it 😁.

Day 7: Khorog

The seventh day was a relatively short one, we headed straight to Khorog in the morning and spent the rest of the day exploring the town and preparing for a big farewell party, as everyone would be going their separate ways the following day.

From here, you can choose to either fly to Dushanbe, which offers a rare and breathtaking view of the Pamir Highway from above, though flights are often cancelled due to unpredictable weather. Alternatively, you can travel by public transportation to Dushanbe. Use the rest of the day to plan your journey back before calling it a night.

It was quite a bittersweet moment, as I had grown very close to the people in our group. Fortunately, we planned to meet up again in Dushanbe, many of them opted to fly, while I decided to take the long bus ride... and yes, it was very, very long!

Day 8: Dushanbe

I decided to take a shared taxi early in the morning around 7 AM to Dushanbe which left from Khorog bus station. My guide told me how long and grueling the trip would be so we decided to get the earliest bus possible. They do not have strict schedule and will leave when full so it's best to ask you guide to help organize the trip back for you the day before.

As expected, the journey took over 16 hours, with a few major incidents along the way, like falling rocks that blocked the road for hours and a couple of flat tires, all while being squeezed in with locals for much of the ride. But despite it all, I can’t deny that this was by far the more immersive and scenic way to get back to Dushanbe. The stunning views and the experience of interacting with locals made it all worthwhile for me.

We arrived in Dushanbe close to midnight and went straight to our hostels to crash. Over the next two days, we spent our time exploring the city, strolling through Rudaki Park, checking out one of the largest flags in the world, and enjoying food and drinks at Public Pub with the group before we finally went our separate ways.

And that’s it for the Pamir Highway itinerary, congratulations on making it to the end of one of the most epic road trips in the world!

Where to Stay in Dushanbe?

Budget

Green House Hostel

$ | Dorm

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👍 Top Pick

Mid-Range

Hotel Sarvar

$$ | Twin Room

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High-End

Hotel Shumon

$$$ | Double Room

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When to Visit the Pamir Highway?

People usually prefer going in mid-summer (July-August) as the weather is more pleasant, but I would personally recommend going in Autumn (September) when the weather is a little cooler. Additionally, the scenery is the most colorful at this time of year, with trees turning orange all over. Another reason to visit during Autumn is that there will be fewer tourists traveling the highway, so you will most likely have the whole place to yourself, both in the mountains and in the guest houses.

How to Get to the Pamir Highway?

You can fly into either Bishkek and then book a flight to Osh to start your journey from Osh, or you can fly into Dushanbe and start your road trip from the opposite side. Either way, I would recommend that you browse through Skyscanner or Expedia before comparing prices so that you can get the cheapest flight possible.

How to Get Around the Pamir Highway?

Hired Jeep and Driver

This is the best option for backpackers who are not keen on biking themselves and have limited time. You will be able to see everything in 8 days without breaking the bank.

Who should you go with? I went with Osh Guesthouse, who organizes these trips regularly at a reasonable price. The cost of both the jeep and the driver is calculated by kilometers, so it will depend entirely on your itinerary. However, the going rate we got was 0.70$/km + $15 daily allowance.

For this 8-day itinerary (off-season), the total cost was 704 USD (jeep + driver). So, if you can find 3 more people, you will only pay 176 USD each, excluding food and accommodation. For food and accommodation, it should cost you around 15 USD per day.

What I did was withdraw around 200 USD from an ATM machine (Optima or Demir give out USD) in Osh, and I exchanged 150 USD into Tajikistan Somoni, keeping the rest for emergencies.

How to find more people to share the jeep with for the Pamir Highway?

If you are a solo traveler like me, doing road trips alone is not just expensive but also boring as hell. So, in order for me to plan this trip, I went onto Caravanistan Forum and started a post to see if anyone wanted to join. In only a few days, I got 4 emails, and my plan began to take shape from there.

The key is to be flexible in your schedule as much as you can by posting it on Caravanistan Forum in advance, with as much information as you can.

What to Pack and Things to Prepare for the Pamir Highway?

• Be prepared for the cold: During autumn, especially at high elevation, the temperature may go down to 0 or even below zero, so bring layers. Here are the jackets I recommend you get for the trip: fleece jacket and the beautiful orange Columbia outer-shell jacket.
• Be prepared for the Altitude: You will be sleeping above 3000m elevation half of the trip, and it can get quite uncomfortable at times, so prepare some painkillers or altitude sickness pills. Also, keep yourself hydrated at all times!
• Sleeping bag not needed: All the guest houses should provide you with warm blankets and heaters.
• Snacks: Some days, you will be in a car for 8 hours, so a little snack will make the trip a little more enjoyable.
• Prepare Kyrgyz Som and Tajik Somonis: In Osh, be sure to exchange your money into Tajik Somonis and leave a few Kyrgyz Som before leaving, as you will need to pay for accommodation and food along the way. The closest town where you can exchange money after Osh is Murghab, but the exchange rate there is questionable.
• Prepare card games: You will be spending 8 days off the grid in guest houses with strangers, so prepare a deck of cards or games to keep your group entertained. A good party app to use is "Heads Up!" (Android | iPhone).
• Visa and GBAO Permit: Be sure to get an e-visa with GBAO permit for Tajikistan beforehand. There will be plenty of checkpoints that will ask you to show it.
• Expect Unreliable Internet throughout the trip: Inform people that you will be away for 8 days, as you will not have access to any reliable internet until Dushanbe. You can obtain a Megaphone SIM card at Murghab, but the internet on the Pamir Highway rarely functions reliably.
• A Backpack: And you will need a backpack to carry everything you need for 8 days. I highly recommend the 65L Osprey Atmos AG Backpack with its mesh grid back support that makes your backpack lighter, a good capacity to carry everything you need for your trip, and you can't beat the Osprey lifetime guarantee.

Further Reading for Central Asia

Are you looking to dive deeper into Central Asia? Here are a selection of travel guides and itineraries for traveling in Central Asia.

• Looking for a complete one-month itinerary and a travel guide for Central Asia? One Month Itinerary For Central Asia
• For a complete itinerary to Kazakhstan, check out: 10-Day Backpacking Kazakhstan Itinerary.
• Looking for things to do in Almaty, Kazakhstan? Check out the 10 Best Things to Do in Almaty.
• If you are staying in Almaty for a while and want to explore the city's culinary delights, be sure to check out our 10 Best Cafes and Restaurants to Try in Almaty.
• Want to get off the beaten path in Kazakhstan? Shymkent is an awesome place to visit. Here are the 9 Best Things to Do in Shymkent.
• Want to visit Turkestan in Kazakhstan? Check out our Complete Travel Guide to Turkestan.
• If you want to witness the city of the future in Central Asia, Astana is definitely the place you want to be. Here are the 10 Best Things to Do in Astana.
• A great country to start your journey in Central Asia is Kyrgyzstan since it is the easiest country to enter the region. Here's a complete 3-week itinerary travel guide to Kyrgyzstan.
• Bishkek, the capital city, is a great place to use as a base for you to obtain all tourist visas for the surrounding countries like Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, and the city has a ton to offer. Here are the top 10 things to do in Bishkek.
• Kyrgyzstan is known for its mountains, and one of the best treks you can do is the Ala Kul trek. Here’s a travel guide for trekking the Ala Kul trail and how you can do it in 2 days.
• If Kyrgyzstan is known for its mountains, then Uzbekistan is known for its culture and architecture. With several ancient Silk Road cities, there is a ton to see in Uzbekistan. Here's a 2-week itinerary and a travel guide in Uzbekistan.
• Last but not least, one of the hardest countries to visit in Central Asia is Turkmenistan, and you will require a lot of planning before you can visit. Here’s a complete travel guide with a one-week itinerary for Turkmenistan.
• You can watch all my travel videos from Central Asia here: Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, and Tajikistan.
• Looking for more travel guides for Central Asia? You can find more on my Central Asia Travel Guide page.
• For more of my travel guides, visit the All Destination Travel Guide page.