It's amazing how time flies. Long before I started this travel blog, I took a leap of faith and began traveling solo. Everything changed when I decided to hike alone in the Himalayas. Annapurna Base Camp was the very first trek I ever completed, and more than a decade later, it still remains one of the best hikes I've ever done.
Over the years, I've met many people who told me I was crazy for taking on the Himalayas alone on my very first trek, without a guide or porter. Looking back, I don't think I was crazy, I simply underestimated how challenging trekking in the Himalayas would be. The trail felt like a roller coaster. It was either uphill or downhill, and I quickly learned that descending could be just as exhausting as climbing.
Today, I'd like to relive that unforgettable adventure and show you the incredible beauty of the Himalayas. Here's my complete guide to the Annapurna Base Camp trek, including everything you need to know to complete it in 7 days.
Annapurna Base Camp Trek Itinerary Map
Quick Summary
| ☀️ Day 1: | Pokhara to Kande to Tolka |
|---|---|
| ☀️ Day 2: | Tolka to Chhomrong |
| ☀️ Day 3: | Chhomrong to Dovan |
| ☀️ Day 4: | Dovan to Machapuchare Base Camp |
| ☀️ Day 5: | Machapuchare Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp to Dovan |
| ☀️ Day 6: | Dovan to Chhomrong |
| ☀️ Day 7: | Chhomrong to Kimche to Pokhara |
7 Days Annapurna Base Camp Trek Itinerary
Day 1: Pokhara to Kande to Tolka (Elevation: 1,130m)
I woke up early that morning, full of excitement as I packed all my gear, grabbed breakfast, and headed to the trailhead at Kande via a taxi organized by my guesthouse.
Just two hours into the trek, I was already questioning my decision to come here. "I had a comfortable bed and a warm shower... why am I doing this?" I thought to myself as I climbed an endless series of stone steps. After a while, I reached my first stop, Australian Camp, where I had lunch while dark clouds rolled over the mountains.
As it turned out, those clouds were carrying a tremendous amount of rain. It poured nonstop for the next three hours as I shivered in the cold. My rain jacket was no match for the relentless downpour. At one point, I had to ask for shelter at a local family's house because the wind had become so strong that it cut straight through my soaked clothes and into my bones as I gained elevation.
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Eventually, the rain eased up—at least for a little while, and I continued on until I reached the first suspension bridge on the trail. Imagine crossing a wet, slippery bridge with a 12 kg backpack strapped to your back. It was both terrifying and exhilarating.
The rain wasn't done with me yet. Was this going to be the worst day of the trek? The easy answer: no. 🙂 I stopped briefly in Tolka before trying to push on to Landruk, where I had planned to spend my first night.
Unfortunately, I wasn't able to make it. It was getting far too dark to continue hiking alone, so I checked into the last lodge in Tolka instead. At least the mountain views from there were incredible.
Day 2: Tolka to Chhomrong (Elevation: 2,170m)
I know I'm a slow walker, so I decided to get an early start at 6 AM and set off for Chhomrong. Since I was already behind schedule, I knew I'd have to push myself a little harder.
So close, yet so far. Looking at the trail ahead, I could see where I needed to go, but the mountains had a way of making every destination feel much farther than it looked. Every time I thought I was getting close, another climb appeared in front of me. The distance on a map means very little in the Himalayas, it seems.
I passed through Landruk, where I saw many trekkers getting ready for the long climb ahead. The village was already coming alive in the morning, with hikers packing their bags, enjoying breakfast, and mentally preparing themselves for another challenging day in the mountains. Me too, my friends, me too 😆.
Every time I descended to a river, I knew deep down that I'd have to climb every meter back up again. The thought of retracing those same steep trails on the way back was just as intimidating.
About to cross a suspension bridge. Since it's one of the longest suspension bridges on the trail, we were only allowed to cross three people at a time to keep it from swinging too much.
After countless ups and downs, I arrived at Jhinu Village, home to the famous hot springs. Unfortunately, this wasn't my stop, so I kept going and tackled what felt like thousands of stone steps. I nicknamed the climb to Chhomrong "The Knee Breaker". It was so steep that it took me nearly three hours to climb from the riverbank to the top. Suddenly, hiking through the rain on my first day didn't seem so bad after all.
When I finally arrived in Chhomrong, I looked back at the mountains I had climbed and couldn't help but admire what humans are capable of. It didn't matter that I was slower than everyone else. As long as I made it, the sense of accomplishment was every bit as rewarding. Exhausted, I checked into the first lodge I found and called it a day.
Day 3: Chhomrong to Dovan (Elevation: 2,600m)
Another early morning start, I trekked down the heights I came up from yesterday and then up again the same height to Sinuwa. The other night, I met a couple from Amsterdam who had the exact same schedule as me, and I decided to stick with them.
As I arrived at my stop and luckily got an individual room, they encouraged me to push to the next stop, which is only an hour and a half away. Now I'm stuck with a decision to make: power through it with a chance of not getting a room (because it was late), or stay here with a room and push the next day.
"What's my limit?" I asked myself this and decided to test my strength and power for another hour and a half. I arrived in Dovan, drained and severely dehydrated. I tried begging for a room at the lodge, and most of them said it was full, until I met a lodge owner who decided to shove me into a shared room. At that point, I no longer cared where I sleep, as long as I don't have to walk further.
Day 4: Dovan to Machapuchare Base Camp (MBC) (Elevation: 3,700m)
This was the toughest day of the trek. I reached an altitude of over 3,000 m for the first time in my life, and I quickly noticed how much harder it was to breathe. I found myself stopping more frequently, taking longer breaks just to catch my breath.
My original plan was to hike through the Himalaya and Deurali before spending the night there. However, many of the trekkers I met were continuing on to Machapuchare Base Camp (MBC), so I decided to do the same.
What should have been a two-hour hike ended up taking me nearly four hours as I struggled with the altitude. Along the way, several porters offered to carry my backpack for free after seeing how exhausted I was, but I was determined to finish the climb on my own.
I eventually made it to MBC, and I didn't regret my decision for a second. The view was simply magnificent. It felt like I was standing at the gateway to heaven. Surrounded by towering Himalayan peaks, I felt incredibly small. The scale of these mountains is almost impossible to comprehend.
My first glimpse of Annapurna South. After days of walking through forests, villages, and endless stone steps, seeing the massive white peak appear in front of me was an unforgettable moment. The mountain felt impossibly huge, standing quietly above the valley like it had been watching over us the entire time.
With no city lights or pollution to dim the sky, the stars came alive in a way I had never experienced before. It was the first time I had ever seen the Milky Way with my own eyes, and it was an unforgettable, awe-inspiring moment.
Day 5: Machapuchare Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp to Dovan (Highest Elevation: 4,130m)
The next morning, I woke up at 4 AM to catch the sunrise at Annapurna Base Camp. All the pain and exhaustion I had endured over the past few days had finally paid off.
I arrived just in time as the first light of dawn illuminated the summit of Annapurna, one of the world's 14 mountains that rise above 8,000 meters.
Like one big family! 😊 All of us hurdling inside a lodge at Annapurna Base Camp waiting for the sun to rise 🥶.
The view was breathtaking, but what stayed with me even more was the overwhelming sense of accomplishment that washed over me as I stood at the base camp.
Finally! I could proudly say that I had trekked through the Himalayas alone and made it. I spent the next few hours wandering around the base camp as the sun rose above the towering Himalayan peaks. What a perfect day for a hike!
After about 2 hours of being blown away by the Himalayas, it was time to say goodbye to the mountains and to all the friends I had made along the way. What an unforgettable experience it had been.
One last look at Annapurna South. I still had a long way to go before reaching Dovan, and this was when I realized that getting down could be just as exhausting, if not more painful, than going up. Gravity was definitely not doing my knees any favors. 😬
It took me almost 7 hours to make it back to Dovan, leaving me completely drained. That day taught me another valuable lesson: reaching your goal is only half the journey. You still have to find the strength to make it all the way back down. 🥲
And just like that, it was time to head home. The mountains had taught me so much about perseverance, resilience, and gratitude. It was a truly life-changing experience, one that forever changed the way I look at the world and the comforts of our modern lives.
Day 6: Dovan to Chhomrong (Elevation: 2,600m)
With the hardest part of the trek behind me, I decided to slow things down and enjoy the journey back to Chhomrong. There was no longer any rush to reach a destination. Instead, I took my time, immersing myself in the towering peaks, the peaceful forests, and the familiar trails one last time before leaving the Himalayas behind.
The Himalayas definitely left a lasting impression on me. What began as a leap of faith on my very first solo trek turned into one of the most rewarding experiences of my life.
Rather than satisfying my curiosity, the mountains only made me want to come back and explore more of Nepal's incredible trails. Little did I know, this would be the first of many adventures in the Himalayas.
Day 7: Chhomrong to Kimche to Pokhara (via Jeep) (Elevation: 2,170 m)
My final day on the trail was an easy one. I hiked from Chhomrong down to Kimche, where I caught a shared jeep back to Pokhara. The three-hour ride marked the end of an unforgettable adventure as the Himalayan peaks gradually disappeared behind me.
Back in Pokhara, I finally enjoyed a hot shower, a proper meal, and a comfortable bed before preparing for my journey home. Looking back, the Annapurna Base Camp Trek was more than just my first Himalayan adventure, it gave me the confidence to take on bigger challenges and sparked a lifelong love for trekking in Nepal.
Goodbye for now, Himalayas. I'll be back... and next time, it's Everest Base Camp.
Where to Stay in Pokhara?
When to Trek Annapurna Base Camp?
The best time to trek the Annapurna Base Camp is during the shoulder seasons of either April - May (Spring) or October - November (Autumn), which are considered to be pre-monsoon and before winter, respectively.
The weather is mildly hot during the day while hiking and cold at night, depending on the altitude. There is also a lesser chance of rain during this time, and you will like to get clear days consecutively, which is perfect for hiking.
Day-to-Day Summary: Annapurna Base Camp Trek
Day 0: I arrived in Pokhara and bought a map, a cheap sleeping bag, and a trekking pole to prepare for the trek.
Day 1: I took a taxi to Kande (1,200 NPR from Lakeside) and began the trek. Five hours later, I had passed through Australian Camp (where I stopped for lunch) and Pothana before arriving in Tolka, where I spent the night.
Day 2: I woke up early and hiked through Landruk, New Bridge, and Jhinu before tackling the incredibly steep staircase to Chhomrong (I nicknamed it the "Knee Destroyer" stairs). I stayed the night in Chhomrong.
Day 3: Once again, I set off early in the morning, descending from Chhomrong, crossing a suspension bridge, and climbing back up through Lower and Upper Sinuwa. About five hours into the hike, I reached Bamboo for lunch before continuing for another two hours to Dovan, where I spent the night.
Day 4: I started early as usual and hiked to Himalaya, where I stopped for a coffee before continuing to Deurali and finally Machapuchare Base Camp (MBC). From Himalaya onward, it's almost entirely uphill for around five hours, so be prepared. I went to bed early at MBC.
Day 5: I woke up at 4 AM and hiked to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) in time for sunrise. After spending a few hours exploring the base camp, I returned to MBC for lunch before continuing down through Deurali and Himalaya. I finally arrived back in Dovan around 6 PM and spent the night there. Walking through the forest after dark wasn't something I wanted to do.
Day 6: I continued down the same trail until I reached Chhomrong, where I stayed for another night.
Day 7: This time, I took the alternative route through Khola before climbing to Kimrong Danda. After lunch, I descended to Ghandruk, one of the most beautiful villages on the trek. From nearby Kimche, I caught a shared jeep back to Pokhara (2,500 NPR, around a 3-hour drive).
Annapurna Base Camp Trek Cost Breakdown
Here's a rough breakdown of the costs you can expect on the Annapurna Base Camp Trek:
- Accommodation: 300–400 NPR per night.
- Food: 400–600 NPR per meal (prices increase as you gain altitude).
- Water: Free tap water is available in many villages, or around 50 NPR per liter for purified drinking water.
- Permits: The ACAP permit costs 30 USD. (The TIMS permit is no longer required for most independent trekkers.)
- Nepal Visa: 30 USD for a 15-day tourist visa.
- Shared Jeep from Kimche to Pokhara (Optional): Around 2,500 NPR.
- Flights between Kathmandu and Pokhara (Optional): Prices vary depending on the season.
On average, expect to spend around 3,000 NPR (approximately 25–30 USD) per day on the trail, including accommodation and meals. For a 7-day trek, carrying at least 30,000 NPR in cash is a good idea, especially if you plan to buy snacks, hot drinks, or charge your electronics along the way.
ATMs are available in Pokhara but are limited or unavailable once you're on the trail, so be sure to withdraw enough cash before you start your trek. It's always better to carry a little extra than to run out of money in the mountains.
What to Pack for Annapurna Base Camp Trek?
- Hiking Clothes: The sun can be intense during the day, and you'll be working up a sweat while hiking, so wear lightweight, breathable layers. I recommend a moisture-wicking base layer, a fleece jacket for insulation, and a waterproof outer shell for rain and wind. Here are the jackets I recommend: this fleece jacket and the Columbia waterproof outer-shell jacket.
- Warm Clothes for the Teahouses: Once you stop hiking, temperatures drop quickly. A warm down jacket is highly recommended, as most teahouse bedrooms are not heated.
- Headlamp: Essential for early morning starts and in case you end up hiking before sunrise or after sunset (although I don't recommend hiking after dark). This is the headlamp I used on the trek: Ultra Bright Cree Headlamp.
- First Aid Kit: Pack blister bandages, pain relievers, altitude sickness medication (such as Diamox), personal medications, and a few basic first aid supplies.
- Sunglasses: UV exposure is much stronger at higher elevations, so don't forget a good pair of sunglasses.
- Buff or Neck Gaiter: A buff helps warm the cold, dry air before you breathe it in, which may reduce the chances of developing Khumbu Cough.
- Wet Wipes: The next best thing to a shower in the mountains. You'll be glad you packed them after several days on the trail.
- Hiking Boots: Bring sturdy, waterproof hiking boots with good ankle support, especially if you're trekking during the shoulder seasons. Most importantly, make sure they're well broken in before your trip to avoid blisters. These Timberland hiking boots are my go-to pair, while the Columbia Newton Ridge boots are another excellent option.
- Cash: Withdraw enough cash in Pokhara before starting the trek, as ATMs are extremely limited once you're on the trail.
- Sleeping Bag: Nights can get surprisingly cold, even inside teahouses. A sleeping bag rated to around -10°C is ideal. You can rent or buy one in Kathmandu or Pokhara, or bring your own, such as the Coleman North Rim Sleeping Bag.
- Toiletries: Pack the essentials, including wet wipes, toilet paper, a toothbrush, toothpaste, sunscreen, lip balm, and hand sanitizer.
- Snacks: Bring your favorite energy bars or snacks from Pokhara. They'll be much cheaper than buying chocolate bars or chips at higher elevations.
- Offline Maps: Download Organic Maps (or Maps.me) and save the Nepal map before your trip. The trail is well marked on both apps and works offline, making navigation much easier.
- Backpack (50–65L): A comfortable backpack with a supportive suspension system will make a huge difference over seven days. I highly recommend the Osprey Atmos AG 65L Backpack. Its suspended mesh back panel keeps your back cool, carries weight exceptionally well, and it's backed by Osprey's excellent lifetime warranty.
How to Get from Kathmandu to Pokhara?
There are several domestic airlines, including Buddha Air, Yeti Airlines, and Shree Airlines, that operate daily flights between Kathmandu and Pokhara. The flight takes around 25–30 minutes, with fares typically ranging from 85–150 USD one way, depending on the season and how far in advance you book.
If you have more time and want to save money, you can also take a tourist bus from Kathmandu. Most buses depart from the Thamel area between 7 and 8 AM, cost around 7–25 USD depending on the level of comfort, and take approximately 7–9 hours to reach Pokhara.
If you're arriving in Nepal by air, you'll need to walk from the international terminal to the domestic terminal at Kathmandu Airport to catch your flight to Pokhara. The walk only takes a few minutes.
After arriving in Pokhara, I took a taxi to my hotel (Hotel Middle Path) before heading out to pick up a few last-minute items for the trek. One thing I quickly discovered was that trekking gear in Nepal is significantly cheaper than back home. Whether you're looking for a sleeping bag, trekking poles, or warm clothing, Pokhara is a great place to stock up before hitting the trail.
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115 Comments
i have being think to climb the Himalayas for sometimes now but i need a bit more courage and i think u just gave me that !
Thanks for sharing you experience
Thank you Rizgar! I hope you will make it there soon!
Wow,it's really awesome photo collection by my motherland
Thank you soo much :)
Bellissimo!!!
This is hilarious ...!!!
want to see the milky way with my own eyes too.
Love your blog and wonderful pix,thanks for sharing it ,off to annapurma now.
When did you go? Thanks for sharing!
Late October :)
Thanks for sharing! It's awesome! How much did you spend for this whole trip? Including buying of your gear over there?
thanks for sharing!. the pics are so beautiful. Just like a life time achievement kind of thing. :)