Update 2023: Bad news! The Nepalese government has introduced a new rule that requires all foreign hikers to be accompanied by a local guide while hiking in Nepal, with the exception of the Everest region. Unfortunately, the Annapurna Base Camp falls under this initiative, so you are now required to hire a licensed local guide for this hike. That said, the itinerary and preparation remain largely unchanged, so you should be able to use the details provided here to plan your trip.
It's amazing how time flies. Way back before I started this travel blog, I decided to take a leap of faith and started traveling solo, and everything changed when I decided to go and hike solo in the Himalayas. Annapurna Base Camp was the first trek I had done and it remained one of the best hikes I have done.
I have met many people along the way, and many have told me that I was crazy to take on the Himalayas on my first trek alone, with no guide or porter. When I come to think of it, I was not crazy, but I underestimated the difficulty of trekking the Himalayas. The trail was like a roller coaster. You either go up or go down, making my journey descending as equally tiring as ascending.
So, today, I will relive that crazy, awesome experience again and show you the beauty of the Himalayas. Here is a complete guide on the Annapurna Base Camp trek and how you can do it in 7 days.
- Annapurna Base Camp Trek Itinerary Map
- 7 Days Annapurna Base Camp Trek Itinerary
- More Nepal Activities
- Where to Stay in Pokhara?
- Annapurna Base Camp Travel Video
- When to Trek Annapurna Base Camp?
- Annapurna Base Camp Trek Summary
- Annapurna Base Camp Trek Budget
- What to Pack for Annapurna Base Camp Trek?
- How to Get from Kathmandu to Pokhara?
- Further Reading for South Asia
Annapurna Base Camp Trek Itinerary Map
โ๏ธ Day 1: | Pokhara to Kande to Tolka |
โ๏ธ Day 2: | Tolka to Chhomrong |
โ๏ธ Day 3: | Chhomrong to Dovan |
โ๏ธ Day 4: | Dovan to Machapuchare Base Camp |
โ๏ธ Day 5: | Machapuchare Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp to Dovan |
โ๏ธ Day 6: | Dovan to Chhomrong |
โ๏ธ Day 7: | Chhomrong to Kimche to Pokhara |
7 Days Annapurna Base Camp Trek Itinerary
Day 1: Pokhara to Kande to Tolka (Elevation: 1,130m)
I woke up early in the morning, full of excitement as I prepared all my gear, grabbed breakfast, and headed out to the entry trail, Kande.
2 hours into my trek, and my mind started to regret the decision of coming here. "I had a comfortable bed and a warm shower... why am I doing this?" I thought to myself as I climbed the stairs that seemed to have no end. After a while, I reached the first stop, the Australian camp, and had lunch there as clouds started to sweep through the mountains.
As it turns out, those clouds carried with them a tremendous amount of rain, and it rained on me for 3 hours straight as I shivered. The raincoat was unable to protect me from the heavy shower. At one point, I had to ask for shelter at the local's house nearby because the wind was getting stronger, piercing through my skin into my bones as I went higher.
- Kiwi Backpackers Hostel Pokhara (Budget)
- Hotel Middle Path & Spa (Mid-Range) ๐ Top Pick
- Hotel White Pearl (High-End)
- An Amazing Annapurna Base Camp Trek (10 days)
- Annapurna Base Camp Trek via Poon Hill (13 days)
- Short Annapurna Base Camp Trek (13 days)
The rain did eventually stop (for a moment) and I went on and found myself walking on the first suspension bridge on the trail. Imagine walking on a wet and extremely slippery wooden bridge with a 12kg backpack strapped to your back. It was a thriller.
The rain won't give up easily in the Himalayas. Can this be my worst day of the trip? Easy answer, no. :) I stopped at Tolka, trying to power through to Landruk for my first night.
Unfortunately, I was unable to reach my goal as it was getting way too dark to walk alone, so I stayed at the last lodge in Tolka. The view of the mountains here is awesome.
Day 2: Tolka to Chhomrong (Elevation: 2,170m)
I know I'm a slow walker, so I decided to start off early (6 AM) and headed out to Chhomrong. Since I was behind my schedule, I had to push harder.
Every time I had to descend down to the river, deep down, I knew that I would have to ascend all those heights again, not to mention that walking back would be just as demanding.
About to cross the New Bridge. Since it's one of the longest suspension bridges on the trail, we had to go three at a time to prevent the bridge from swinging too hard.
As I walked up and down several times, I arrived at the Jhinu village (hot springs), but this was not my stop, so I powered through it and climbed what seemed like thousands of steps (I called this ascent to Chhomrong the Knee Breaker). It was so steep that I spent 2-3 hours climbing from the river bank to the top of the mountain. My first day walking in the rain now seems like child's play.
I eventually arrived at Chhomrong, and as I looked back, I realized how ambitious humans are, climbing all those mountains. No matter how slow you are, as long as you arrived, the feeling of accomplishment is still as great as climbing fast. I crashed at the first lodge I found and stayed for the night.
Day 3: Chhomrong to Dovan (Elevation: 2,600m)
Another early morning start, I trekked down the heights I came up from yesterday and then up again the same height to Sinuwa. The other night, I met a couple from Amsterdam who had the exact same schedule as me, and I decided to stick with them. As I arrived at my stop and luckily got an individual room, they encouraged me to push to the next stop, which is only an hour and a half away. Now I'm stuck with a decision to make: power through it with a chance of not getting a room (because it was late), or stay here with a room and push the next day.
"What's my limit?" I asked myself this and decided to test my strength and power for another hour and a half. I arrived in Dovan, drained and severely dehydrated. I tried begging for a room at the lodge, and most of them said it was full, until I met a lodge owner who decided to shove me into a shared room. At that point, I no longer cared where I sleep, as long as I don't have to walk further.
Day 4: Dovan to Machapuchare Base Camp (MBC) (Elevation: 3,700m)
This is the hardest day on the trek, as I reached the highest altitude I have ever been at 3,000m. I had a difficult time breathing, and I had to stop more often and rest longer.
My plan was to go through the Himalayas and Deurali and then rest there, but since many people I met are pushing through Deurali and stopping at MBC, I decided to stick with them and trek up to MBC. A trek that was supposed to be 2 hours took me almost 4, as I struggled to breathe. There were many porters (sherpas) who offered to help carry my bag for free, but I insisted that I can do it.
I eventually arrived, and I did not regret my decision. The view was magnificent! It was like walking into the entrance of heaven. The landscapes here made me feel like an insect. These mountains are magnificently humongous!
Without any pollution and lights coming from cities, the beauty of the stars and skies at night returns to us. This is my first time seeing the Milky Way with my own eyes. It is an awe-inspiring moment.
Day 5: Machapuchare Base Camp to Annapurna Base Camp to Dovan (Highest Elevation: 4,130m)
The next morning, I woke up at 4 to catch the sunrise at the Annapurna Base Camp. The tortures I went through had finally paid off. The view is breathtaking, but not as great as the feeling of accomplishment that swept through my body as I reached the base camp. I can proudly say, I have trekked the Himalayas alone and survived.
Saying goodbye to the mountains and all the friends I met during the trek. It was a hell of an experience!
And it was time to go. The mountains had taught me so much about life. It was a life-changing experience. I now look at our surplus societies in a different way.
Day 6: Dovan to Chhomrong (Elevation: 2,600m)
I decided to take it slow going down, so that I could absorb everything in before I leave.
The Himalayas have left me wanting more.
Day 7: Chhomrong to Kimche to Pokhara (via Jeep) (Elevation: 2,170m)
This is my way out of the mountains. I took a 3-hour ride on a jeep out of Kimche near Landruk right back to Pokhara, rested, and prepared to go home. Goodbye, and I'll be back for Everest next time in Nepal!
More Nepal Activities
Looking to save some costs on your travel? Why not join a shared group tour to explore Nepal? Here are some activities in which you might be interested:
If you are looking for more activities to do here, be sure to check out some of the available tours and day trips:
- An Amazing Annapurna Base Camp Trek (10 days)
- Annapurna Base Camp Trek via Poon Hill (13 days)
- Short Annapurna Base Camp Trek (13 days)
Where to Stay in Pokhara?
When to Trek Annapurna Base Camp?
The best time to trek the Annapurna Base Camp is during the shoulder seasons of either April - May (Spring) or October - November (Autumn), which are considered to be pre-monsoon and before winter, respectively.
The weather is mildly hot during the day while hiking and cold at night, depending on the altitude. There is also a lesser chance of rain during this time, and you will like to get clear days consecutively, which is perfect for hiking.
Annapurna Base Camp Trek Summary
Day 0: I arrived in Pokhara, went out, and bought a map, a cheap sleeping bag, and a trekking pole to prepare myself for the trek.
Day 1: I took a taxi to Kande (1200 rupees from Lakeside) and started climbing.
5 hours in, I passed through Australian camp (where I had lunch), Pothana, and arrived at Tolka. I stayed in Tolka for a night.
Day 2: I woke up early, walked through Landruk, New Bridge, Jhinu, and climbed super steep stairs (I called these the Knee Destroyer stairs) to Chhomrong. Rested there for a day.
Day 3: Again, I started out early in the morning, walking down a mountain from Chhomrong, crossing a suspension bridge and going up again through lower and upper Sinuwa. Five hours in, I arrived at Bamboo for lunch and then walked for another 2 hours to Dovan and stayed there for the night.
Day 4: I started out early as usual and walked to the Himalayas. I rested for a coffee and proceeded to Deurali and then to MBC. From the Himalayas, itโs all uphill for 5 hours, so be prepared. I went to bed early at MBC.
Day 5: I woke up at 4 and started trekking to ABC (Annapurna Base Camp) to witness a sunrise. Stayed for a few hours and walked down to MBC for lunch. Powered through Deurali, Himalaya, and eventually arrived in Dovan at 6:00PM. Rested there for the night because the forest at night is scary.
Day 6: I continued down the same route until I reached Chhomrong and rested there for another day.
Day 7: This time, I went down the other way to Khola, and then went up again to Kimrong Danda. I had lunch and walked down to Ghandruk, which is a beautiful village. Eventually, I took a jeep out (2500 NPR and 3 hours drive) from Kimche to Pokhara.
Annapurna Base Camp Trek Budget (Updated 2019)
Here is an approximate breakdown of the things you will have to pay on the trail:
- Accommodation: 300 - 400 NPR per night.
- Food: 400-600 NPR per meal (gets more expensive the higher you go)
- Water: Free tap water, 50 NPR per liter of purified water.
- Permits: The TIMS permit costs 20 USD and the ACAP permit costs 30 USD, totaling 50 USD.
- Nepal Visa: $15 for a 15-day entry visa.
- Jeep from Kimche to Pokhara (Optional): 2500 NPR.
- Flights to Pokhara and back: 160 USD round-trip.
From the breakdown above, you can expect to spend around 30 USD (3000 NPR) per day on the trail, including food and accommodation. Adding it all up, expect to carry a minimum of 30,000 NPR in cash when you are on the trail. Your last chance of getting money from an ATM is in Pokhara, so prepare accordingly. The best way is to have more cash than you need for a smoother experience in the mountains.
What to Pack for Annapurna Base Camp Trek?
- Hiking Clothes: The sun is strong, and you will be sweating a lot while hiking, so I would recommend something light and breathable, like a weather-proof outer-shell jacket, together with a fleece jacket and a regular shirt inside. Here are jackets I recommend you get for the trip: fleece jacket and the beautiful orange Columbia outer-shell jacket.
- Teahouse Clothing: When you are idle, you will need something that can keep you warm. A big down jacket is recommended for when you are in the teahouse. Most teahouses' bedrooms are NOT equipped with a heater, so you will definitely need a good down jacket.
- Head Lamps: Important in the early mornings and in case you have to hike at night (I do not recommend this). Here is a headlamp I use during this hike: Ultra Bright Cree Headlamp.
- First Aid: Bandages in case of blisters, Tylenol for headaches, Diamox for altitude sickness, etc.
- Sunglasses: The sun is extremely strong up there.
- Buff: To warm up air before you breathe in to prevent the nasty case of Khumbu Cough afterward.
- Wet Wipes: The next best thing to actually having a shower in the mountains. You will thank yourself for it after 10 days of not showering.
- Good Sturdy Shoes: Make sure you have waterproof, sturdy shoes in case of rain. Break into your shoes first if you bought new ones. You wouldn't want to be the hiker with blisters all over their feet at the end of the trek. These Timberland Shoes are my go-to hiking boots in most situations, and I recommend you carry high ankle shoes like the Columbia Newton Ridge shoes just in case.
- Money: Get enough cash in Pokhara for all the days you are trekking, as there is no way you will be able to withdraw money along the Annapurna Base Camp trek.
- Sleeping Bag: Bedrooms in teahouses can get really cold at night, and there's nothing worse than not being able to sleep after an 8-hour hike day. I would recommend getting the -10ยฐC one in either Thamel, Kathmandu, or Pokhara. I got mine in Pokhara and am still using it today (2019). You can also get the Coleman North Rim Sleeping Bag online prior to your trip.
- Toiletries: Wet wipes, tissue papers, a toothbrush, toothpaste, sunscreen, lip balm, etc.
- Snacks: Prepare some snacks to treat yo self so you don't have to buy an overpriced Snickers bar up there. You deserve it!
- Get Maps.me: Download the Maps.me app on your phone and download the Nepal map for offline navigation. They do have the trail map available, and it's quite accurate. The app is available on both Android and iOS.
- Large Backpack (60+L): And of course, a backpack big enough to fit all this stuff so you can carry it up the mountain. I highly recommend the 65L Osprey Atmos AG Backpack with its mesh grid back support that makes your backpack lighter, a good capacity to carry everything you need for your trip, and you can't beat the Osprey lifetime guarantee.
How to Get from Kathmandu to Pokhara?
There are several domestic airlines (Buddha Air, Yeti Airline, and Simrik Airline) that fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara on a daily basis. The price should be around 85 - 150 USD one way and it should take around 30 minutes.
If you have time and want to save costs, you can take a tourist bus from Thamel at 7-8 AM for around 7-25 USD, depending on the comfort level of the bus, and that should take you 6-8 hours.
From Kathmandu International Airport, you have to walk out of the international terminal and head north toward the domestic airport to take a flight to Pokhara.
After arriving in Pokhara, I took a taxi to the hotel (Hotel Middle Path) and headed out to grab a few missing gears I needed for the trek. It turns out that buying gear in Nepal will save you a gazillion dollars more than buying from your home country. Everything is cheap here.
Now that we have all the information we need, it's time to start planning your trip! Here are some resources to help you get going:
Are you planning to travel independently? Be sure to check out my guide on How To Plan A Backpacking Trip here.
Further Reading for South Asia
Looking for more information for your trip to South Asia? Here are a collection of articles about South Asia that might help you with your trip planning.
- Ever wonder what it is actually like to trek Everest Base Camp solo? Here is an inspirational story of my trip trekking the Himalayas in great detail. Get immersed in the Himalayas! On My Way To Everest Base Camp - A Personal Story From The Himalayas.
- Looking for a complete packing guide for the Everest Base Camp trek? Check out: What To Pack For Everest Base Camp Hike - A Complete Packing List.
- Looking to do some trekking in Nepal? Check out my Complete Guide To Trekking Everest Base Camp Independently with a 15-day itinerary.
- Here are a few important things you should know before visiting Bhutan: 11 Important Things to Know Before Visiting Bhutan.
- If you are looking for an off-the-beaten-path country to visit, why not check out Bhutan, the land of happiness during one of its famous festivals? Here is an itinerary for you: 7 Days Bhutan Festival Itinerary.
- Pakistan is rich with culture, history, and stunning landscape. It is, after all, the place where the Himalayas, the Hindu Kush, and the Karakoram mountain range meet. Here's the ultimate guide and one-month itinerary for backpacking in Pakistan.
- One of the best road trips you can do in the world is to traverse the Karakoram Highway in Pakistan, which connects the country with China. Here's the ultimate guide to traveling the Karakoram Highway.
- I have also written a bit about my trip to India. Here are the 2-part photo essays of my journey: Incredible India Part 1 and Incredible India Part 2.
- If you are feeling a little too intimidated by India, you can start off your journey in South Asia by visiting Sri Lanka first. Hereโs a complete 2-week itinerary for Sri Lanka.
- You can also watch my travel videos about South Asia here: Sri Lanka travel video, Nepal travel video, and Pakistan travel video.
- Want to know where to go after Nepal? How about exploring the Golden Triangle in India, exploring Sri Lanka by train, or going off-the-beaten-path and backpacking through Pakistan?
- For all articles about Nepal, visit Nepal Travel Guide page.
- You can see all my South Asia-related articles on my South Asia Travel Guide page.
- For more of my travel guides like this, visit my Destinations page.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links.
115 Comments
i have being think to climb the Himalayas for sometimes now but i need a bit more courage and i think u just gave me that !
Thanks for sharing you experience
Thank you Rizgar! I hope you will make it there soon!
Wow,it's really awesome photo collection by my motherland
Thank you soo much :)
Bellissimo!!!
This is hilarious ...!!!
want to see the milky way with my own eyes too.
Love your blog and wonderful pix,thanks for sharing it ,off to annapurma now.
When did you go? Thanks for sharing!
Late October :)
Thanks for sharing! It's awesome! How much did you spend for this whole trip? Including buying of your gear over there?
thanks for sharing!. the pics are so beautiful. Just like a life time achievement kind of thing. :)