One of the most beautiful regions in Georgia that people often miss is Svaneti, the incredibly rugged and breathtaking mountainous region of the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range where the Svan people live. The region is known for many things, from being home to some of the highest villages in Europe, the mysterious medieval stone watchtowers that dotted the landscapes, and best of all, the unique culture of the Svan.
It is also home to many snow-capped peaks, lush green valleys, and winding trails, which makes for a great destination to visit. Within this travel guide, I'll provide all the information you need to plan the perfect trip to Svaneti from the best things to do, how many days to stay, how to get around, and more, so without further ado, here's a complete travel guide to Svaneti:
Svaneti Itinerary Map
8 Best Things to Do in Svaneti
1. Explore the Beautiful Town of Mestia
Mestia is going to be your home base as you explore Svaneti, and even though the true beauty of this region lies in its incredible surroundings, there are also many awesome things to do here that you should not miss.
If you've done a bit of research on Svaneti, you probably already know that this region is famous not only for its breathtaking scenery but also for its rich history. This is most evident in the medieval watchtowers that dot the landscape, with one of the highest concentrations found in Mestia.
These towers, called the Svan Towers, are unique to the region and were primarily built between the 9th and 12th centuries, during the Georgia kingdom's golden age. These towers were often built for defensive purposes, with many unfortunately falling into disrepair over the years.
- Hotel Lemi (Budget)
- Hotel Chatini Mestia (Mid-Range) 👍 Top Pick
- Hotel Mestia Inn (High-End)
- Day Tour from Mestia to Ushguli (6 hours) 👍 Top Pick
- Chalaadi Glacier tour (3 hours) 👍 Top Pick
- Koruldi Lake Private Tour From Mestia (3 - 4 hours)
You can easily spend a day exploring the many towers scattered across the valley in Mestia. One of my favorites is Sergo Khergiani's Tower, a larger tower situated on the hillside overlooking Mestia. You can not only enter the tower but also climb all the way to the roof for an even more breathtaking view of your surroundings.
I found the view from this tower to be the best of all, thanks to its height and its unobstructed view. The tower is open from 9 AM to 9 PM every day, and the entrance fee is 3 GEL per person. There are also other towers as well with a museum inside like Margiani's House Museum and Niguriani Tower Museum, where you can see what life was like back in the days, so be sure to spend some time and explore Mestia.
2. Visit Ushguli
One of the most incredible places to visit in Svaneti is Ushguli, a collection of small mountain villages located deep inside the Great Caucasus Mountain Range, about 1 hour away from Mestia. Ushguli is considered to be one of the highest inhabited villages in Europe, standing at 2,345 meters above sea level, and the entire area is a designated UNESCO heritage site.
In Ushguli, you will find not just the famous medieval watchtowers, but also many sites of historical and religious importance like Queen Tamar Castle, where the famous Queen/King of Georgia used to reside, which provides an awesome vantage point over Ushguli. You can see most of the villages and their incredible towers from up here.
Another important site is Lamaria Church, an ancient Pagan pantheon turned Orthodox church set against the stunning 5,201-meter-high snow-capped peaks of the Shkhara Mountain.
The church dates back to the 9th or 10th century, and inside, you'll find remarkable frescoes layered over time, with one dating to the 10th century and another, painted on top, from the 13th century. The church is truly quite a sight to behold.
The winding streets of Ushguli are also worth exploring, as much of the village is still preserved. Many old buildings are still inhabited, and the Svan Towers have been left largely untouched. It's like taking a time machine back to the medieval age when walking around Ushguli.
To visit the village, you can either take a day trip from Mestia which will give you several hours to explore the town, or you can travel there by a Marshrutka van that leaves from Mestia Bus Station to Ushguli every morning at 8 AM, and spend a night there.
You can also trek between Mestia and Ushguli, which will take you 4 days, and spend several nights in remote villages along the way. It is a great and unique way to see and experience Svaneti without having to rush through it.
All in all, if you are looking to experience the true beauty of Svaneti, both in terms of scenery and culture, a visit to Ushguli is a must. If you do not want to hike, be sure to book the day trip in advance.
3. Enjoy the View from the Cross Over Mestia
One of the best half-day hikes you can do in Mestia is to hike to the Cross Over Mestia, an incredible viewpoint located on top of a mountain that overlooks Mestia and the entire valley.
From the viewpoint, you will be rewarded with a 360° panoramic view of not just Mestia and the valley around it, but also the numerous high snow-capped peaks that you won't be able to see from below. The view is truly breathtaking from here.
At the cross, you can also hike a little further up and you will find a lovely cafe run by a Ukrainian family where you can rest, have a morning coffee, and take in the view at your own leisure. They serve coffees and other drinks (like a Georgian lemonade) and they cost around 5 GEL per drink, which is surprisingly affordable considering the incredible view.
To reach the Cross Over Mestia, start your trek from town by heading up the cobblestone street towards the Old House Hotel. Continue along the road until you reach the foothill of the mountain, passing by the telecommunication/weather station. You'll come across a sign directing you to Koruldi Lake, follow it, as the trail will take you through the Cross Over Mestia.
From there, it's all up through the thick forest for about 1.5 hours before you arrive above the treeline. The trail will merge with a dirt track but do not follow it. Walk along it for a bit, and you will find a walking trail that diverges from the road. Take that and it will be another 20 - 30 minutes before you arrive at the Cross Over Mestia.
At the cross, you will find a small pavilion where you can relax. I would recommend taking a few photos and heading to the cafe, which is located atop another hill with a better view of the snow-capped mountains behind it. It should take another 10 minutes to reach the cafe.
The hike from Mestia to the Cross Over Mestia took me about 2.5 hours going up and around 2 hours coming down without any breaks. It's a challenging trek, with a steep incline for the entire 2.5-hour ascent and hardly any flat spots to rest, so make sure you're well-prepared.
The Cross Over Mestia is also a passing point to Koruldi Lakes, which is another epic hike I recommend you do while in Mestia, and you can extend the half-day trip into a full-day one. I'll discuss more in detail below.
The view from the Cross Over Mestia is breathtaking, and it is definitely worth every drop of sweat. If you do not want to hike up, you should be able to hire a taxi driver to take you up there for around 150 GEL. Make sure you find an experienced driver with a 4WD since it is a dirt road with many potholes, and it can be quite steep at times. I do not recommend that you drive yourself!
4. Hike to Koruldi Lakes
Tucked away in the rolling hills of Ushba Mountain, you will find Koruldi Lakes, a collection of small lakes with possibly one of the most beautiful views you can get in Svaneti. It is one of my favorite spots here, not because it is the most beautiful, but because of how much effort it requires to get there... well of course, unless you hire a local driver to take you there.
As I mentioned earlier, the hike to the Cross Over Mestia is part of a longer hike to Koruldi Lakes, which starts from Mestia, goes up to the cafe at the cross for about 2.5 hours, and if you continue further on for another 2 hours, you will arrive at Koruldi Lakes.
The best way to get to Koruldi Lakes is to hike from Mestia as the scenery you see along the way is absolutely breathtaking, but I am not going to sugarcoat it, it was a hell of a hike.
It took me about 4.5 hours to hike non-stop from Mestia to Koruldi Lakes and another 3 hours to get down. I ended up spending almost 10 hours up there, including many MANY rests!
It is the type of hike that will destroy your knees afterward, with a steep ascent all the way from Mestia to the Cross. From there, the trail becomes a more gradual incline, which may sound easy, but nope! On this trail, you will be completely exposed to the elements for the next 2 hours until you reach the lake.
If the sun is out, the midday heat can be very intense, so make sure you are in good shape before tackling this. Oh, and start early, as most tour groups will arrive around 11 AM to 12 PM, so make sure you get to the lake before then.
The hike begins from Mestia. You can begin by heading up the cobblestone street towards the Old House Hotel. Continue along the road until you reach the foothill of the mountain, passing by the telecommunication/weather station. You'll come across a sign directing you to Koruldi Lake, follow it, and you will arrive at the Cross Over Mestia in about 2 hours.
From the cross, continue along the uphill dirt track past the café, where you'll face another 2-hour ascent before reaching the lakes. Along the way, you'll be treated to increasingly better views of the stunning Ushba Mountain, with its jagged peaks soaring over 4,690 meters, majestically towering above you throughout the hike.
After you arrive, you can admire the view from one of the many lakes up there. The farther you hike up the ridge, the more lakes you will see. You can wait for the wind to calm down and capture the still water of one of the lakes, creating a perfect mirror that reflects the beautiful surroundings. It sure was quite a sight to behold.
You can rest up there, have lunch, and take in the view for an hour or 2 before making your way down to Mestia. That will take another 3 - 4 hours depending on how much pain you want to feel in your knees the next day. 😂 You can stop at the cafe again on your way down to break up the trip a bit.
Of course, hiking is not for everyone, especially given how crazy steep the trail to the lake is. So, if you do not want to hike the whole way, you can also go with an organized tour, which you can book here or organize from any tour agency in town a day before. It should cost around 250 GEL (90 - 100 USD) to hire someone to drive you up there and back, and it takes around 4 hours in total.
For me, the hike was part of what made Koruldi Lakes so memorable. If you have a day to spare and are looking for something challenging to do in Mestia, you won't regret hiking to Koruldi Lakes. Just make sure your knees are ready for it 😂.
5. Hike Around Chalaadi Glacier
Another awesome trip you can do is to visit Chalaadi Glacier, one of the most accessible glaciers in Svaneti, with its glacier tongue standing at only 1,850 meters above sea level. It's also the only glacier that cuts through a forested area, making it a great option for a half-day hike.
To get there, you have two options: One is to hike all the way from Mestia, which will take about 2 hours of walking on a dirt road to reach the trailhead at Chali Bridge, followed by another 2-hour hike to arrive at the tongue of Chalaadi Glacier.
Or you can join a Chalaadi Glacier hiking tour, which will take you from Mestia to the trailhead in a 4WD, cutting out the road walk entirely. This allows you to spend 3 hours hiking and enjoying the scenery at your own pace, which is perfect for those who would rather skip the boring walk and get right into the action.
From Chali Bridge, you'll hike along a relatively flat trail with minimal inclines through a forest for about an hour before reaching an open area. From there, you should be able to spot the glacier in the distance. It's another 30-minute hike to the glacier's tongue, where you can actually touch the glacier.
You can spend around 30 minutes to an hour taking photos and enjoying the view before heading back to the trailhead the same way. The entire hike, round trip, took me about 2.5 hours. The tour started quite late around 4:30 PM, and we were back way after dark at 8:30 PM.
If you plan to visit Ushguli as a day trip, I highly recommend combining it with this tour and doing it all in one day. The day trip to Ushguli often ends around 3 PM, with plenty of time to join the Chalaadi Glacier hike at 4:30 PM. I booked both together and had a blast!
6. Drop by The Tower of Love
The Tower of Love is a stone tower located in a remote part of Svaneti, renowned for the legend surrounding its origin and name. Legend has it that long ago, a beautiful woman named Miaguli crossed paths with Otia, a skilled hunter. They fell deeply in love, but Otia was already married, and Miaguli couldn't bring herself to break up his family.
Heartbroken, Otia went hunting, and tragically, he fell into the river and drowned. His wife, unable to endure the grief of losing him, also leaped into the Enguri River. According to legend, the couple transformed into trout. Miaguli, mourning her lost love, persuaded her father to build a tower on a boulder by the river. She lived there alone for the rest of her life, dedicating her days to feeding the fish. 😢
It's a tragic story that adds a layer of intrigue to the Tower of Love, despite the fact that there's not much inside the tower itself. The local lady charges 2 GEL for entry and she was extremely aggressive about it, shouting at me for entering even though I had just paid her 2 minutes ago 🤦.
If you're driving to Ushguli, it's worth a brief stop to experience the legend and the location. However, the tower alone might not be worth a special trip, so weigh that into your travel plans.
7. Learn more about the Svans at the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography
If you want to learn more about the Svans and their unique culture, one of the best places to dive deep is the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography. This extensive museum in Mestia is dedicated to preserving Svan culture and their traditional ways of life, holding more than 4,000 pieces of artifacts found in Svaneti.
Inside the museum, you'll find a vast collection of archaeological artifacts, including unique examples of engraved and painted icons, religious objects, weapons, and more. Each exhibit is accompanied by detailed descriptions in English, explaining its discovery and use, which will help you understand just how rich the culture is here.
They also feature an exhibition of old black-and-white photographs of Svaneti and its people, offering a fascinating glimpse into what life was like in this remote region back in the day.
The museum is quite large, so be sure to allocate at least one hour for your visit. Don't miss the stunning view of Mestia from the museum's balcony. It's open daily from 10 AM to 6 PM, with an entrance fee of 20 GEL.
8. Try Svan Traditional Dishes
Last but not least, be sure to try some of their delicious dishes like Kubdari, or Svan meat pie, Chishdvari, a cornbread with cheese, Petvaraali, the Svan version of the famous Georgian dish, Kachapuri, and more.
One of the best places to try all of these is Cafe Laila, located right in the city center of Mestia. I went there almost every day as they serve a variety of local Svan dishes, and the ones I tried were all delicious.
It also has one of the few reliable Wi-Fi connections in the area and accepts credit cards, which is very convenient. The restaurant is open daily from 10 AM to midnight, so be sure to check it out while you're in Mestia.
Where to Stay in Mestia?
When to Visit Svaneti?
The best time to visit Svaneti is during the summer months between June and September. During this period, the weather is generally favorable, with minimal rain. Although it can be quite hot at times, the conditions are great for hiking and I'd take hot days over rainy ones any day.
You will also find more buses and transfers available during this time, making it much easier to visit Mestia than during the off-season. The town of Ushguli is often cut off entirely in the winter due to snow as well, so I would recommend avoiding a visit outside of the recommended period.
How to Get to Svaneti?
To reach Svaneti, you have a few options: you can travel from Tbilisi, Kutaisi, or Batumi, the three largest cities in Georgia. There are several flights, both direct and connecting, to the airports in these cities, so your choice will depend on your Georgia itinerary. You can find affordable flights by browsing Skyscanner or Expedia.
Getting from Tbilisi to Svaneti
Tbilisi is the capital city of Georgia, and it is the furthest away from Svaneti out of all 3. Since we will be basing ourselves in Mestia, the main tourist town of Svaneti, and it is over 400 km away deep in the mountains, you can expect to spend at least 10 hours or more if you rely on public transportation.
By Private Transfer: The easiest and most convenient way is to organize a private transfer from Tbilisi. It will cost you 260 USD and take about 10 hours with optional stops along the way. It is quite expensive, but it is direct and less hassle than the other options.
By Public Transportation: For public transportation, the best way is to take the train from Tbilisi to Zugdidi, and then catch a Marshrutka van to Mestia. There is one train at 8:20 AM for about 10 USD and you should get to Zugdidi in 6 hours, arriving at 2:30 PM. Keep in mind that trains in Georgia get booked out days in advance, so be sure to book it early.
From Zugdidi, you should be able to catch a Marshrutka just outside the train station. It should take another 3 - 4 hours and cost around 40 GEL before you arrive in Mestia. The van will leave when it is full. Keep in mind that Marshrutka vans rarely come with AC and if you travel in the summer, it can be quite unbearably hot, so make sure you seat yourself by the window that actually opens.
For a more comfortable ride from Zugdidi to Mestia, you might also find shared taxis waiting for you in front of the train station. They are a bit pricier at 50+ GEL per person, 150 - 200 GEL for the whole car, but way more comfortable and a bit faster than a Marshrutka van.
Getting from Kutaisi to Svaneti
By Shared Transfer: The easiest and most convenient way is to organize a shared transfer from Kutaisi. It costs 33 USD and takes about 6 hours. They leave every morning at 7 AM from the organizer's office in Kutaisi city center.
This is how I got to Mestia, and I found the trip very comfortable and on time. There were only 5 people in the car, and we arrived in Mestia around 1 PM. The mountain road to Mestia can be pretty rough at times, so I'm glad I chose this option.
By Public Transportation: From Kutaisi Bus Station, you should be able to find a Marshrutka van to Zugdidi leaving at all hours during the day. They leave when it is full so the schedule is not fixed. The journey should take about 2 hours and cost 7 - 10 GEL per person.
From Zugdidi, you should be able to catch a Marshrutka just outside the train station. It should take another 3 - 4 hours and cost around 40 GEL before you arrive in Mestia. Keep in mind that Marshrutka vans rarely come with AC and if you travel in the summer, it can be quite unbearably hot, so make sure you seat yourself by the window that actually opens.
For a more comfortable ride from Zugdidi to Mestia, you might also find shared taxis waiting for you in front of the train station. They are a bit pricier at 50+ GEL per person, 150 - 200 GEL for the whole car, but way more comfortable and a bit faster than a Marshrutka van.
Getting from Batumi to Svaneti
By Shared Transfer: The easiest and most convenient way is to organize a shared transfer from Batumi. It costs 80 GEL and takes about 7 hours. They leave every morning at 6:30 AM from the organizer's office in Batumi.
By Public Transportation: From Batumi Bus Station, you should be able to find a Marshrutka van to Zugdidi leaving at all hours during the day from 8 AM - 8 PM. They leave when it is full so the schedule is not fixed. The journey should take about 3 hours and cost 7 - 10 GEL per person.
From Zugdidi, you should be able to catch a Marshrutka just outside the train station. It should take another 3-4 hours and cost around 40 GEL before you arrive in Mestia. Keep in mind that Marshrutka vans rarely come with AC, and if you travel in the summer, it can be quite unbearably hot, so make sure you seat yourself by the window that actually opens.
For a more comfortable ride from Zugdidi to Mestia, you might also find shared taxis waiting for you in front of the train station. They are a bit pricier at 50+ GEL per person, 150 - 200 GEL for the whole car, but way more comfortable and a bit faster than a Marshrutka van.
How Many Days to Stay in Svaneti?
If you want to experience the best of Svaneti, you will need at least 3 full days (3 nights) to do this place justice. Below is a suggested itinerary for Svaneti:
- Day 1: Explore Mestia
- Day 2: Day trip to Ushguli (optional overnight) and hike Chalaadi Glacier
- Day 3: Visit Koruldi Lakes
Of course, if you have more time, you can adjust the itinerary and add a few overnights and rest days in between. If you have at least 5 days, I recommend you spend overnight in Ushguli.
The mountains around Ushguli are absolutely stunning, and they are best seen during sunrise and sunset. There are also a ton of things to do, history to learn, and several accommodations you can choose from.
You can also add another rest day either before or after visiting Koruldi Lakes, especially if you plan to hike, as the trek from Mestia will take about 9 hours and is uphill all the way from the town to the lakes. Trust me, you'll appreciate that extra rest day.
What to Pack for Svaneti?
As you may already know, I am an advocate of light traveling, and indeed, packing light for a journey like this is a unique art form. Here are some packing tips for your upcoming trip to Svaneti, Georgia:
- Walking/Hiking Shoes: With all the walking and possible hiking during your travel, a comfortable pair of shoes is a must. I recommend the Timberland 3-Eye Classic Boat Shoes that are my go-to pair for long strolls and hikes.
- Breathable Shirts: Given the potential for hot weather, pack a few breathable shirts for your outdoor adventures.
- Shorts/Jeans: Anticipate lots of walking during your travels? Be sure to pack some breathable shorts and a pair of Levi's jeans for when the weather cools. For women, leggings are excellent for both hot and cold climates, so consider packing some as well.
- Fleece Jacket: For colder weather, layering is the key, and a fleece jacket makes an excellent insulating layer. I recommend the Columbia Steens Mountain Fleece (for women).
- Outer Shell Jacket: An outer shell jacket is great for windy or rainy conditions. I highly recommend the Columbia Watertight Jacket (for women). It's lightweight, breathable, and even comes in a cool orange color.
- Microfiber Towel: A Microfiber towel is the ideal backpacker's towel due to its lightness, quick drying, and compressibility.
- Camera: You should also pack a good camera for your trip so that you can capture all the beautiful experiences you might have. I recommend the Sony a7R V camera together with the Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM II lens, which is probably the highest-performance camera and lens combination you can get right now.
- Power Bank: Keep your electronics charged on the go with a 20,000+ mAh Power Bank.
- Water Bottle: The Hydro Flask Trail Water Bottle is a great insulated water bottle to have with you in cities or on hiking trails. It is lightweight and can keep your water cold or warm for more than 12 hours. It's a total game-changer.
- Universal Adapter: You'll need just one universal adapter to plug in your electronics in any country you visit.
- Packing Cubes: Packing Cubes will help you save space in your backpack and keep all your belongings organized.
- Daypack: The Langly Alpha Globetrotter is my go-to everyday camera backpack. It's large enough to carry all my travel gear, and it comes with plenty of slots and pouches. Plus, it's stylish as hell!
- Large Backpack: You will need a large backpack to carry all of your stuff. I recommend the Osprey Atmos AG 65L backpack. With excellent weight distribution and a lifetime guarantee, you can't go wrong with Osprey.
For more information on what I pack in my backpack for this trip, check out: My Packing List: 60 Travel Essentials.
Now that we have all the information we need, it's time to start planning your trip! Here are some resources to help you get going:
Are you planning to travel independently? Be sure to check out my guide on How To Plan A Backpacking Trip here.
Further Reading for Georgia
I hope you found this Georgia travel guide useful. If you are looking for something to read to help with your Georgia trip planning even further, be sure to check out the articles below:
- For a complete itinerary to Georgia, check out: 2 Weeks Backpacking Georgia Itinerary.
- Tbilisi is definitely one of my favorite cities in the Caucasus with its vibrancy and liveliness that rival no one. If you are planning a trip here, be sure to check out our guide: 15 Incredible Things to Do in Tbilisi.
- Looking for a great day trip from Tbilisi? How about visiting the romantic wine region of Kakheti? Here is A Complete Travel Guide to Kakheti.
- Nestled between the rolling mountains of the Greater Caucasus Range, Kazbegi is hands down one of the best places to visit in Georgia. From the photogenic Gergeti Trinity Church to all the awesome hikes you can do, here is A Complete Travel Guide to Kazbegi.
- One of the best day trips you can make in Kazbegi is to visit Juta Valley and go hiking around one of the many hiking trails here. Here is A Complete Hiking Guide to Juta Valley.
- An alternative day trip you can make in Kazbegi is to spend a day hiking in Truso Valley, where stunning nature meets incredible history. To help you plan the ultimate trip, here is A Complete Hiking Guide to Truso Valley.
- As one of the oldest cities in Georgia, with a history spanning 3,000 years, Kutaisi has a ton of things for you to see and do. If you're planning a visit, be sure to check out our 10 best things to do in Kutaisi.
- One of the best hikes you can do in Svaneti is the Koruldi Lakse hike. Here is A Complete Hiking Guide to Koruldi Lakes
- For a complete list of things to do in Mestia, check out: 10 Best Things to Do in Mestia
- Ushguli is one of the highest inhabited settlements in Europe, and it is a must-visit if you are exploring Svaneti. Here is A Complete Travel Guide to Ushguli
- Batumi is more than just the Dubai of the Black Sea; it has a rich history, delicious cuisine, and plenty of things to do. Here are the 11 Best Things to Do in Batumi.
- Wondering where to go after Georgia? Why not drop by Armenia or Azerbaijan afterward?
- For all articles about Georgia, visit our Georgia Travel Guide page.
- Looking to travel to the Caucasus Region? Check out all my articles about the region here: The Caucasus Travel Guide page.
- You can see all my Asia-related articles here: Asia Travel Guide page.
- For more of my travel guides like this, visit my Destinations page.
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