Right off the heels of my latest trip to Isaan, the often forgotten northeastern region of Thailand, I have become more and more fascinated and extremely passionate about the music of this region. So much so that I decided to write this article in dedication to the wonderful sounds of Isaan, or Thai Psychedelic Music, which is unknown to many.
I had my first proper experience with Thai Psychedelic Music just a few years ago when I started traveling to Isaan, and now I can’t stop listening to it. If you're interested in learning more about Thailand beyond the usual temples and beaches, read on as we explore a brief history of the sound of Isaan, why it’s great, and where you can listen to it live, with a few awesome examples that I really love. Let’s begin, shall we?
What is Mor Lam or Thai Psychedelic Music and where did it originate?
Mor Lam is a traditional form of Lao and Isaan folk music that originated in Laos and the Isan region of northeastern Thailand. The term combines "mor", meaning "expert" or "master", and "lam", meaning "folk song" or "singing", thus referring to a "master singer" or "expert song".
Mor Lam has deep roots in the rural communities of Laos and Isaan, where it has been practiced for centuries. It is closely associated with the Lao-speaking populations of these regions and has traditionally been a medium for storytelling, conveying local legends, religious tales, and social commentary.
Traditional Mor Lam performances typically feature a singer accompanied by the khaen, a bamboo mouth organ that creates a rich, droning backdrop. The music is characterized by rapid vocal delivery, extensive improvisation, and a rhythm that can get even grandmas and grandpas dancing. The themes of the songs vary, but they often revolve around rural life, love, hardship, and humor, reflecting the everyday experiences of the Isaan people.
In the 1960s and 70s, Mor Lam began to incorporate elements from Western music genres like rock, funk, and soul, leading to a fusion known as "Thai psychedelic" or "psychedelic Mor Lam". This evolution introduced electric instruments and modern production techniques, creating a unique sound that I find truly fascinating.
A notable modern adaptation is Mor Lam Sing, a faster-paced, electrified version that emerged in the 1980s. This is, hands down, my favorite version of Mor Lam. It combines traditional singing with Western instruments like electric guitars and keyboards, often featuring lively performances accompanied by spicy dance moves from Hang Klueng (dancers) and theatrical elements.
Nowadays, you can often find Mor Lam Sing shows happening across the country, often organized around holiday periods, but they also play in traditional bars and pubs. It is quite popular among locals but not very well known among tourists, which is the reason why I decided to write this article.
Why is Mor Lam Sing the Best?
I honestly believe that if Thailand plays its cards right, it could capitalize on Mor Lam's uniquely vibrant and fun sound and performances. By marketing it as an immersive traditional experience of Thai culture, Mor Lam could break into the mainstream, similar to what K-pop did for Korea, but with deeper roots in our traditions, way of life, and cultural identity.
Mor Lam Sing is incredibly easy to dance to, even if you don’t understand the lyrics. In fact, many of my favorite Mor Lam songs aren’t even in a Thai dialect I can understand! For example, "Worn Wai Roon" is one of the most requested songs these days. It was written by an artist from Surin, a province in southern Isaan near the Cambodian border, and it’s sung in Surin-Khmer. But none of that matters when the beat drops, people here dance to it like there’s no tomorrow! 😂
I can totally imagine Thai psychedelic bands performing on massive mainstream stages like Coachella, electrifying the crowd with their fast-paced rhythms and high-energy performances. With dancers whose acrobatic moves could rile up even the toughest audience, the whole show would be an unforgettable cultural explosion that will put Thailand in a lot more of younger people's minds.
Thai Government, if you’re listening, just as you successfully promoted Thai cuisine to the world, you can also invest in marketing the incredible sounds of Isaan. This could become another powerful form of cultural soft power, encouraging more tourists to explore the northeastern region, which is often overlooked by foreign travelers.
It would add a whole new dimension to the already rich experience of visiting Thailand. We have everything in place, from the viral appeal of the performers to the vibrant colors and electrifying shows that can rival any act on the global stage. All we need now is that final push to make it known worldwide. I can't wait for the day when a Mor Lam performer like Lamyai Haitongkam steps onto the Coachella stage and gets the whole world dancing to Mor Lam Sing! 😉
My Favorite Sounds of Isaan
Now, enough rambling from me, it's time to listen to some of my favorite sounds of Isaan, starting with Lamyai Haithongkam, one of my favorite performers. I had the chance to see her live at a New Year's event in Chanthaburi. It happened by coincidence while I was visiting the night market and saw a crowd gathering around a stage. Intrigued by the excitement, I stayed to see what was going on.
I was completely blown away by the whole experience. Her team’s performances are known for being some of the most fun and engaging out there, with dancers giving it their all like there’s no tomorrow. Her songs are often fast-paced, and they make people of all ages want to get up and dance, which is just awesome. She has become such a popular icon here in Thailand that she's already booked for over two years, which is crazy!
Here are some of my favorite songs performed by her:
- Worn Wai Roon (วอนวัยรุ่น) – A song sung in the Surin-Khmer language, featuring a fun choreographed dance.
- Isaan Folk Rhythm – A very fast-paced traditional Isaan sound that's incredibly fun to dance to.
- Pee Ja Paa Pai Kuen Rod Fai (I'll Take You on a Train Ride) (พี่จะพาไปขึ้นรถไฟ) – A song about a man who fancies a girl and wants to take her on a train ride to Bangkok to show her around, despite being from the countryside.
- Paa Mia Ma Loey (Take Your Wife to See Me) (ป๋าเมียมาเลย) – A bold song about a woman who calls out men who already have a wife but still try to flirt with her, lying and hiding the truth. The title is a dare: "Bring your wife with you and see if you still have the guts to approach me and lie".
- Mae Hang Noi (แม่ฮ้างน้อย) – A song that reflects the emotions of a young woman who has been through marriage and now faces loneliness and sadness after a breakup. One of the spiciest songs out there, with a dance at the end that’s ridiculously fun to try and replicate 😂.
If you are looking for a more contemporary take on the sound of Isaan, I highly recommend you check out this DJ set from Thailand who has collected some really incredible sounds of Isaan from almost every era. Here are some of my favorite songs from her set:
- Hit Hit Disco by Shampoo (ฮิตๆ ดิสโก้ - วงแชมพู) – Funk/Soul Thai band from 70s/80s with incredible disco sound. Not Morlam, I know but hell, is it catchy as hell.
- Saeo Mai Wen (Always Teasing) by Royal Sprites (แซวไม่เว้น - รอยัลสไปรท์ส) – Another disco hit, this time about guys who constantly catcall everyone, even in inappropriate situations.
- Lam Toei Dai Lao Laeo Luem Mia (When I Have Whiskey, I Forget My Wife) by Chanphen Dennapha (ลำเต้ยได้เหล้าแล้วลืมเมีย - จันทร์เพ็ญ เด่นนภา) – a lively Isaan folk song that humorously portrays a man who, after drinking, forgets about his wife, highlighting the man's tendency to prioritize drinking over his marital responsibilities.
Where can I Watch a Mor Lam Performance in Thailand?
Mor Lam is widely popular in Thailand, and it is not difficult to witness performances if you know where to look. The easiest way is to visit some of the venues in Bangkok that are known for hosting live Isaan music in the evening, like Esan Tawandeang, among others.
For a more spontaneous way to experience an Isaan music performance, you can do as I did and travel to any of the big cities in the countryside of Thailand, be it Chantaburi, Buriram in Isaan, or even in tourist cities like Chiang Mai, during Thai holidays like New Year's, Songkran, or Loy Krathong.
During these times, most cities organize large open-air events in the main parks, often featuring temple fairs with Ferris wheels, fun games, street food, and live concerts showcasing traditional folk songs where you can see it first-hand.
I actually attended my first proper Mor Lam concert with Lamyai Haithongkam in Chantaburi while traveling during New Year's. They were organizing a 7-day event at the main park in the city center with different bands rotating each day, and I happened to be there during Lamyai Haithongkam's performance. It was incredible!
If you like what you hear from Lamyai Haithongkam, you can also follow her schedule on her Facebook page, but they are in Thai, so you might have to get it translated. She will often pop in at one province every other day around the country so you never know. That's not to say that other performers aren't good, you can also check them out too, but I found Lamyai to be the most fun and engaging.
I hope you enjoy this little admiration piece about the wonderful sounds of Mor Lam music. I truly love the genre, and I definitely see its potential as one of our most unique cultural treasures that we can share with the world.
If this has inspired you to venture off Thailand's beaten path and visit Isaan, then hop over to our Northeastern Thailand page, full of travel guides, and start planning your trip! I'm here to help!
Now that we have all the information we need, it's time to start planning your trip! Here are some resources to help you get going:
Are you planning to travel independently? Be sure to check out my guide on How To Plan A Backpacking Trip here.
Further Reading for Northeastern Thailand
Looking for more information about your trip to Northeastern Thailand? Here are a collection of articles about Northeastern Thailand that you might find useful:
- Tired of the well-trodden parts of Thailand and looking to really go off the beaten path? How about a road trip around Isaan? My itinerary covers all 20 provinces in the Isaan region, and more, so be sure to check it out: One Month Itinerary for Isaan.
- As the gateway to Isaan, you can't travel to the region without passing through Nakhon Ratchasima or Korat for short. To help guide you through the province, check out 10 Impressive Things to Do in Korat (Nakhon Ratchasima).
- Home to Phanom Rung, one of the most well-preserved Khmer temples in Thailand, Buriram is an awesome place to visit as you explore Southern Isaan. If you plan to visit Buriram, check out Discover Buriram: 11 Awesome Things to Do and More.
- One of the best times to visit Phanom Rung is during the Phanom Rung Festival, where you'll find parades, light and sound shows, and more. Here's a complete guide to visiting the Phanom Rung Festival: Phanom Rung Festival: A Complete Travel Guide
- Passing through Surin and wondering what to do? Check out this travel guide: Visit Surin: 10 Incredible Things to Do and More
- Curious about the coolest things to do in Si Saket? Check out: Discover Si Saket: 11 Amazing Things to Do and More
- If you're passing through Ubon Ratchathani and only have time to explore the city, be sure to check out: Ubon City Guide: 10 Best Things to Do and More
- Planning to cross the land border between Thailand and Cambodia to visit Siem Reap? You might want to stop by Sa Kaeo, a Thai border province full of awesome things to do. For the full guide, check out: Exploring Sa Kaeo: 8 Best Things to Do and More
- Come explore the lesser-known mountainous region of Phetchabun with this travel guide: Discover Phetchabun: 10 Incredible Things to Do and More.
- Tired of the constant heat in Thailand? Escape to the cool mountains of Khao Kho with this guide: A Complete Travel Guide to Khao Kho.
- As a gateway to the mountains of Phetchabun, Lom Sak is the perfect place to stop by before you head into the mountains. For a complete travel guide, check out: A Complete Travel Guide to Lom Sak.
- Want to explore Loei and its mountainous scenery and vibrant culture? Check this out: Exploring Loei: 10 Best Things to Do & More.
- Looking to explore Chiang Khan and its wonderful tourist attractions? You are going to need this travel guide: Chiang Khan Travel Guide: 8 Best Things to Do & More.
- Want to experience the colorful Phi Ta Khon Festival, where locals wear elaborate costumes and ghost masks? Check out this guide: Phi Ta Khon Festival: A Complete Travel Guide.
- Nong Khai is often overlooked by many travelers traveling between Thailand and Laos, but there's so much to do here. If you are interested to explore more of the frontier province of Nong Khai, check out: Explore Nong Khai: 12 Best Things to Do & More.
- Bueng Kan is emerging as Isaan’s new adventure hotspot, known for the famous Naka Cave, Phu Tok mountain, scenic waterfalls, and more. If you're planning a trip to Bueng Kan, don't miss this: Discover Bueng Kan: 10 Best Things to Do & More.
- The walking street and riverside views along the Mekong in Nakhon Phanom are absolutely legendary, and a must-visit in Isaan. If you’re planning a visit, don’t miss my full guide here: Visit Nakhon Phanom: 10 Best Things to Do & More.
- Sleepy Sakon Nakhon is full of surprises—from the colonial French buildings of Tha Rae Village to hidden Khmer temples tucked away in the jungle. Check out this complete travel guide to Sakon Nakhon: Exploring Sakon Nakhon: 10 Best Things to Do & More.
- Udon Thani is a big city with tons of things to do. If you plan to visit Udon Thani, be sure to check out this travel guide: Discover Udon Thani: 10 Awesome Things to Do & More.
- If you’re driving through Nong Bua Lamphu and wondering if there are any places worth seeing, check out this travel guide: Visit Nong Bua Lamphu: 8 Incredible Things to Do & More.
- Khon Kaen is a big province with plenty to do. If you want to visit but aren’t sure where to start, this guide is for you: Discover Khon Kaen: 12 Awesome Things to Do & More.
- Kalasin may be a small province in Isaan, but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to do. If you’re passing through, be sure to check this out: Kalasin Guide: 8 Best Things to Do & More.
- Mukdahan may not be as popular as other Mekong towns like Chiang Khan or Nakhon Phanom, but it offers a laid-back vibe and chill atmosphere unlike its larger counterparts. Don’t skip Mukdahan! Here’s a complete travel guide to help you explore this lovely province: Exploring Mukdahan: 10 Cool Things to Do & More.
- If you are passing through Amnat Charoen and are wondering what there is to do there, then check out this guide: Visit Amnat Charoen: 9 Best Things to Do & More.
- Yasothon is where the famous Bun Bung Fai Festival or rocket festival takes place, and it's home to some really charming Isaan attractions not many people know about. Here's a complete guide to Yasothon: Discover Yasothon: 10 Incredible Things to Do & More.
- Roi Et is definitely one of my favorite provinces in Isaan, thanks to its beautiful and modern city center, iconic landmarks like the Roi Et Tower, and more. If you’re interested in visiting Roi Et, be sure to check out Explore Roi Et: 12 Amazing Things to Do & More.
- If you are wondering what to do in Maha Sarakham, this guide is for you: Visiting Maha Sarakham: 9 Amazing Things to Do & More.
- If you like mountains and are looking for a true hidden gem of Isaan, which is already a hidden gem in itself, you might want to check out Chaiyaphum, all as I called it the land of beautiful cliffs. Here's a complete guide to Chaiyaphum: Discover Chaiyaphum: 12 Incredible Things to Do & More.
- Looking for a complete travel guide to Southeast Asia? You should check out our 3-Month Backpacking Itinerary for Southeast Asia.
- Looking for an itinerary for Thailand? Check out One Month Itinerary for Thailand.
- If you are traveling to Thailand, it is important for you to know what you should and shouldn't do. Here are 10 Tips for Traveling in Thailand.
- Thai Street Foods are among the best in the world, and to help guide you through the street food cuisine of Thailand, be sure to check out the 15 Best Street Foods in Thailand to Try.
- Learning a bit of Thai phrases will go a long way for you when you visit Thailand. Here are 15 Thai Phrases You Should Know.
- Photos are worth a thousand words, but what is worth more than photos? A video. Here are travel videos I made for Thailand: Timeless Thailand, a journey into the North of Thailand, Long Tail Thailand, exploring the beautiful south of Thailand, and taking it slow with Slowed Down Bangkok travel video.
- Wondering where to go after Thailand? How about continuing on to Malaysia, Myanmar, or Indonesia?
- Want to explore other parts of Thailand? How about exploring Northern Thailand, Southern Thailand or Central Thailand?
- For all articles about Thailand, visit the Thailand Travel Guide page.
- Looking to travel to Southeast Asia? Check out all my articles about Southeast Asia here: Southeast Asia Travel Guide page.
- You can see all my Asia-related articles here: Asia Travel Guide page.
- For more of my travel guides like this, visit my Destinations page.
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