It had always been a dream of mine to attend the Phi Ta Khon Festival ever since I saw photos of people in elaborate, colorful ghost masks parading through the streets of Loei. So when the rainy season rolled around this year and the festival dates were finally announced, I knew it was time to make it happen.
I packed my bags and drove up to Dan Sai in Loei Province to finally experience this one-of-a-kind celebration for myself. From energetic dances to bustling street markets and lively temple fairs, the whole town came alive. It was absolutely incredible!
That said, there were definitely a few things I wish I had known before going, like how overwhelming the crowds can be, how tricky it is to find parking, and a handful of other small surprises. That’s exactly why I decided to put together this guide.
Here’s everything you need to know to plan the perfect trip to the Phi Ta Khon Festival, with tips and tricks to help you avoid common mistakes and make the most of your visit. But first, let’s start with a little background on what the Phi Ta Khon Festival is all about.
- What is Phi Ta Khon About?
- When is Phi Ta Khon held?
- Where does Phi Ta Khon take place?
- Things to Know Before Visiting Phi Ta Khon Festival
- What to Expect Phi Ta Khon Festival?
- Other Things to Do Near Phi Ta Khon Festival?
- Where to Stay near Phi Ta Khon Festival?
- How to Get to Phi Ta Khon Festival?
- Further Reading for Northeastern Thailand
What is Phi Ta Khon About?
The Phi Ta Khon Festival traces its origins to a blend of Buddhist legend, local folklore, and ancient animist beliefs. At the heart of the festival is the story of Prince Vessantara, a compassionate and generous figure from one of the Buddha’s past lives. According to the legend, Prince Vessantara was exiled to the forest for giving away a sacred elephant. When he eventually returned to his kingdom, the villagers were so overjoyed that they held a massive celebration.
The festivities were said to be so loud and spirited that even the ghosts and spirits of the forest came out to join the fun. This story is reenacted during the festival, with people dressing in ghostly costumes and masks to symbolize the spirits who came to celebrate the prince’s return.
The name "Phi Ta Khon" is often interpreted as meaning “ghosts that follow people”. It is believed to have evolved from the term "Phi Tam Khon", which literally means “ghosts following people”. This reflects the idea that the spirits are invited to follow the lively parade of villagers.
Over time, the pronunciation changed and the festival took on its current name. The festival is also part of a larger event called Bun Luang, a religious merit-making ceremony in which villagers listen to Buddhist sermons and perform acts of devotion, blending the spiritual and the celebratory.
Today, the Phi Ta Khon Festival is a vibrant fusion of religion, folklore, and tradition, born from a mythic past and kept alive through generations of storytelling and communal celebration. The main event takes place in Dan Sai, Loei, beginning at Wat Phon Chai and extending throughout much of the town's main street.
When is Phi Ta Khon held?
The exact date of the festival changes each year, as it follows the lunar calendar, but it typically takes place in June or July. The official dates are announced by local monks shortly before the event. The festival usually spans three days, with the main parade taking place on the second day. To find out the exact date for this year, keep an eye on the announcement on the Thailand Tourism website.
Where does Phi Ta Khon take place?
The Phi Ta Khon Festival is held in Dan Sai, a small town in Loei Province, northeastern Thailand. The event starts from Wat Phon Chai and extends throughout much of the Kaew Asa Road.
Phi Ta Khon isn’t celebrated only in this small town; it also takes place in other parts of Loei Province. However, the main and most well-known event is held in Dan Sai. If you want to experience the full spectacle of ghost costumes, lively parades, and festive energy, this is the place to be.
Things to Know Before Visiting Phi Ta Khon Festival
- Dates change every year: Phi Ta Khon follows the lunar calendar, so the date shifts each year—usually falling in June or July. The official announcement often comes just a few weeks in advance, made by local monks. Check the Thailand Tourism website or follow local news for updates.
- Book accommodation early: Dan Sai is a small town, and places to stay fill up quickly around festival time. Not only does Dan Sai get fully booked, but nearby towns like Lom Sak (about an hour away) also run out of rooms leading up to the event. It’s best to book your stay as soon as the festival dates are announced. Personally, I stayed in Lom Sak, drove to the festival in the morning, and continued on to Loei City in the evening. I didn’t stay in Dan Sai itself, and to be honest, I’m glad I didn’t. The traffic in town was terrible throughout the entire three-day event, and aside from the festival, there isn’t much else to do there. It felt like a good decision not to be stuck in Dan Sai the whole time.
- The parade day is extremely crowded: The festival gets extremely crowded, especially on parade day. Expect to be stuck in traffic for up to 2 hours before reaching Dan Sai, and then spend another hour looking for a parking spot, which might be a 30-minute walk from the event. To avoid the hassle, consider visiting on the non-parade days (honestly, the parade was so packed you could barely see it), or arrive in Dan Sai early and leave late.
- Parking is limited: Parking in town is extremely limited during the festival. You may need to park 0.5–1 km away, which could mean a 30-minute walk—or even longer in heavy crowds. I had to park on the side of the road, all the way uphill, and walk along the highway for about 30 minutes to reach Wat Phon Chai.
- Arrive very early: If you plan to attend on parade day, the busiest day of the festival, you should aim to arrive by 7 AM, while traffic is still manageable. I reached Dan Sai around 9 AM and ended up stuck in traffic for 1.5 hours. Leaving can be just as bad, with congestion lasting all afternoon. Unless you stay until after 7 PM, when things finally quiet down, you’ll likely face heavy traffic. That said, in my opinion, it’s not really worth staying that late, so just be prepared for the traffic jam when heading home.
- Dress appropriately: Since the main event takes place at a temple, it’s important to dress respectfully. Wear pants or skirts that cover your knees, and avoid tank tops or sleeveless shirts.
- Dress for the heat: It’s hot and humid in Loei during this time of year. Wear light, breathable clothing, comfortable shoes, and don’t forget sunscreen, a hat, and a water bottle.
- Prepare for rain: Since the festival coincides with the start of the rainy season, pack a light rain jacket or poncho in case of sudden downpours.
What to Expect Phi Ta Khon Festival?
Scrambling to Find Accommodation Near Dan Sai
I'm usually a plan-as-I-go type of guy. I often plan my trips on a day-to-day basis because you never really know where it's best to stay or how long to stay until you're actually there. Plus, my trips often involve visiting multiple locations at once to avoid wasting time backtracking. As a travel blogger, this kind of improvisation usually works wonders, until my trip to Phi Ta Khon.
I definitely underestimated how many people attend the Phi Ta Khon Festival! I had just wrapped up my trip in Phetchabun right before the festival and only then started looking for hotels nearby. Of course, all the hotels in Dan Sai were already fully booked. No problem, I thought. I’ll just find accommodation in a nearby town.
Then I zoomed out on the map and realized Dan Sai is in the middle of a valley, surrounded by mountains and, well, pretty much in the middle of nowhere. The nearest large town is Lom Sak, which is over an hour’s drive away. Nearby towns like Ban Na Dan and Phu Rua are also small and don’t have many places to stay.
- Phurua Inn ภูเรือ อินน์ (Budget)
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- Hug Jang Loei Garden & Resort (High-End)
Lom Sak seemed like my best option, but that turned out to be almost impossible too, as all accommodations were fully booked except for one ridiculously expensive villa. I drove around for hours, stopping at at least five hotels that aren’t listed online, hoping to find a room. But nope, everything was taken. In the end, I had to bite the bullet and book that expensive villa just to have a place to sleep for the night.
Don’t be like me. Plan ahead and book your accommodation as early as possible. The earlier, the better. Don’t wait until 2–3 days before the event… unless you want to sleep in your car. 😅
Stuck in Traffic for 1 Hour
The next morning, on the second day of the Phi Ta Khon Festival when the main parade takes place, I woke up at 6 AM. Since I had just booked an expensive villa, I figured I might as well make the most of it and waited for the 7 AM breakfast before hitting the road. In hindsight, that was a terrible idea. I should’ve just grabbed a quick breakfast from 7-Eleven and left much earlier.
I began the drive from Lom Sak to Dan Sai at 7:30 AM. While there were more cars than usual for that hour, the journey was smooth, until I reached the winding roads leading into Dan Sai. This section was the bottleneck of the entire trip. Around 9 AM, traffic came to a standstill. Cars inched forward bit by bit, and it took about an hour before I could even see Dan Sai in the distance.
Traffic only got worse as the day went on. On my way back around 1 PM, the line of cars stretched even farther out from Dan Sai. Looking back, I should have started the journey at 5 AM and arrived by 7 AM, well before the crowds. If you’re planning to visit Phi Ta Khon, I highly recommend getting there no later than 7 AM and simply wait it out until the event begins around 9 to 10 AM. Trust me, your trip will be far less agonizing.
Parking Was Impossible to Find
By 10 AM, I arrived in Dan Sai only to be met with even more traffic, full parking lots, and long lines of cars parked along the side of the road. I should’ve taken the hint and parked as soon as I saw an empty spot, but I kept thinking, "Surely there must be parking closer to town".
As it turned out, there were none. I ended up wasting even more time stuck in traffic, trying to loop back to the mountain road where all the cars were already parked. I had to take a sharp U-turn at the main Dan Sai intersection and drive back up to search for a spot along the roadside.
I eventually found one about 1 km away from the event. Not ideal, but at that point, I’d rather spend time walking than sitting in traffic with no clue where, or if I’d find a place to park. It took me around 30 minutes to walk to the main festival street.
Festivities Along the Main Street
All that exhaustion evaporated the moment I arrived at Kaew Asa Road, the main street where the Phi Ta Khon Festival is held. The street was jam-packed with people, while food stalls and souvenir vendors lined both sides of the road.
Here, you’ll start to see people in colorful ghost masks and costumes entertaining visitors. You can ask to take photos with them; it’s a lot of fun! The variety of mask and costume designs is incredible. Despite the huge crowd, people moved slowly but steadily, and before long, I found myself flowing with the crowd toward Wat Phon Chai, where the main event takes place.
Enjoying the Main Event at Wat Phon Chai
Wat Phon Chai is where the main event takes place. The temple itself is quite small, but somehow it feels more spacious than the crowded streets outside. Once I arrived at the temple, it was much easier to navigate and enjoy the event. Right from the start, traditional Isaan Mor Lam music was blasting from mobile speakers, with people dancing and enjoying themselves all around.
Inside the temple, you’ll also find the Phi Ta Khon Dan Sai Museum, a small yet charming place that gives you a great overview of what the festival is all about. You can see some of the older ghost masks, costumes, and other cultural artifacts on display. The museum is air-conditioned too, so naturally, you’ll find plenty of people hanging out inside, taking a break from the heat before heading back out to party.
At around 11 AM, the parade officially began. It was scheduled for 10 AM, but due to the massive crowds, things got delayed. One of the unique highlights of the Phi Ta Khon parade in Dan Sai is the appearance of the “Two Big Ghosts”, which you’ll only find in this town.
Two performers dress up in towering ghost costumes with massive masks that loom over the crowd. During the parade, what I assume to be the governor and his wife are ceremonially led around the temple three times, accompanied by these giant ghosts. It’s quite a sight to see.
There’s also a massive ghost mask parade that travels along the main street, but due to the overwhelming number of people, it moves so slowly that it barely feels like a parade at all.
From what I gathered, you probably won’t see these parades on the first and last days of the event, but the festive atmosphere and people in ghost masks are still very much present. Honestly, you won’t miss much if you choose to visit on a non-parade day—plus, you’ll avoid the crushing crowds that I went through.
The dances, the street food, and the photo opportunities with locals wearing ghost masks and colorful costumes were the best parts of Phi Ta Khon. Even though it took quite an effort to get here, it was definitely worth the trip. I spent about four hours at the festival before deciding to walk back to my car and head out towards Loei City.
Leaving Dan Sai Was a Headache
If you think your journey ends after the event, think again. Getting out of Dan Sai was just as much of a headache as getting in. With people both arriving and leaving at the same time, the roads were completely clogged, making it even more time-consuming to leave. There are two ways to exit Dan Sai: either through the town, which means passing the main festival intersection, or going back the same way you came in. I chose the latter, but even then, it took another hour before I could properly start driving toward Loei City.
The bottleneck this time was at the Dan Sai Viewpoint, where many locals had parked along the roadside to take in the view. There were so many cars that only one lane remained open, forcing vehicles going in both directions to take turns. It was chaotic, but still better than trying to pass through the heart of Dan Sai during the event.
All in all, prepare your mental state for this trip as it will require quite a lot from you to be patient and enjoy the event as it is. Other than that, you will have a great time here 😉.
Other Things to Do Near Phi Ta Khon Festival?
1. Visiting Phi Ta Khon Dan Sai Museum
If you want to learn more about Phi Ta Khon and see how Dan Sai has celebrated the festival over the years, be sure to visit the Phi Ta Khon Dan Sai Museum, located inside Wat Phon Chai—the site of the main festival events.
If you attend the festival, you’ll likely end up here anyway, but if you’re passing through Dan Sai outside of festival time, the museum is still well worth a visit. It’s open daily from 8 AM to 5 PM, and entry is free.
2. Check Out Wat Neramit Wipassana
I didn’t have the time or the mental energy to brave the traffic here, but if you do, be sure to check out Wat Neramit Wipassana. It’s a large and highly revered local temple featuring beautiful architecture, Buddhist murals, and spacious grounds perfect for exploring. The temple is open daily from 6 AM to 6 PM.
3. Enjoy the View from Dan Sai Viewpoint
Dan Sai Viewpoint offers a fantastic panoramic view of Dan Sai town from above. During the Phi Ta Khon festival, it was far too crowded for me to stop, and this area also caused significant traffic headaches on my way back. I only caught a glimpse of the view as I passed by, but it looked stunning. If you visit outside of festival time, definitely make a stop here to enjoy the scenery.
Where to Stay near Phi Ta Khon Festival?
The accommodation in Dan Sai is very limited and they are likely to be fully booked the moment the festival dates are announced, so you might have a better chance of finding accommodation in the nearby town. Unfortunately, the nearest large city, Lom Sak, is also an hour's drive away, so prepare for the early morning drive or you can choose to stay in smaller towns like Ban Na Dan or Phu Rua.
I don't think it's worth staying in Dan Sai for the entire event period of 3 days. There's not much to do in Dan Sai and the noise from the massive crowds arriving each day can definitely drive you insane. I think it's best to visit the festival as a day trip or on your way from Lom Sak to Loei City. That's how I did it. Here are some of the recommended accommodations near Phi Ta Khon Festival:
How to Get to Phi Ta Khon Festival?
By Car: For flexibility and the ability to navigate around traffic jams and crowds, I highly recommend renting a car and driving to the event. Loei has an airport where you can fly into from Bangkok, and then you can rent a car from one of the many car rental agencies there and drive to Dan Sai, which should take about 1.25 hours.
You can also rent a car from Bangkok Airports and drive straight to Dan Sai. It's going to take about 6.5 hours so I recommend you spend a night somewhere along the way like Lom Sak. You can rent a car through DiscoverCars.
By Bus: There’s a direct bus from Bangkok’s Mo Chit Bus Terminal to the Dan Sai drop-off point, and the journey takes about 8 hours. There are two departures: one at 12 PM, arriving at 7:45 PM, and another at 9 PM, arriving around 4:40 AM the next day. You can check the schedule here and book tickets through the bus company’s official website, or buy them directly at Mo Chit Bus Terminal. Just be sure to book well in advance if you're planning to attend Phi Ta Khon.
Now that we have all the information we need, it's time to start planning your trip! Here are some resources to help you get going:
Are you planning to travel independently? Be sure to check out my guide on How To Plan A Backpacking Trip here.
Further Reading for Northeastern Thailand
Looking for more information about your trip to Northeastern Thailand? Here are a collection of articles about Northeastern Thailand that you might find useful:
- Tired of the well-trodden parts of Thailand and looking to really go off the beaten path? How about a road trip around Isaan? My itinerary covers all 20 provinces in the Isaan region, and more, so be sure to check it out: One Month Itinerary for Isaan.
- As the gateway to Isaan, you can't travel to the region without passing through Nakhon Ratchasima or Korat for short. To help guide you through the province, check out 10 Impressive Things to Do in Korat (Nakhon Ratchasima).
- Home to Phanom Rung, one of the most well-preserved Khmer temples in Thailand, Buriram is an awesome place to visit as you explore Southern Isaan. If you plan to visit Buriram, check out Discover Buriram: 11 Awesome Things to Do and More.
- One of the best times to visit Phanom Rung is during the Phanom Rung Festival, where you'll find parades, light and sound shows, and more. Here's a complete guide to visiting the Phanom Rung Festival: Phanom Rung Festival: A Complete Travel Guide
- Passing through Surin and wondering what to do? Check out this travel guide: Visit Surin: 10 Incredible Things to Do and More
- Curious about the coolest things to do in Si Saket? Check out: Discover Si Saket: 11 Amazing Things to Do and More
- One of the best places to visit in Isaan is Ubon Ratchathani. If you're looking for things to do there, check out: Ubon Ratchathani: 14 Amazing Things to Do and More
- If you're passing through Ubon Ratchathani and only have time to explore the city, be sure to check out: Ubon City Guide: 10 Best Things to Do and More
- Planning to cross the land border between Thailand and Cambodia to visit Siem Reap? You might want to stop by Sa Kaeo, a Thai border province full of awesome things to do. For the full guide, check out: Exploring Sa Kaeo: 8 Best Things to Do and More
- Come explore the lesser-known mountainous region of Phetchabun with this travel guide: Discover Phetchabun: 10 Incredible Things to Do and More.
- Tired of the constant heat in Thailand? Escape to the cool mountains of Khao Kho with this guide: A Complete Travel Guide to Khao Kho.
- As a gateway to the mountains of Phetchabun, Lom Sak is the perfect place to stop by before you head into the mountains. For a complete travel guide, check out: A Complete Travel Guide to Lom Sak.
- Want to explore Loei and its mountainous scenery and vibrant culture? Check this out: Exploring Loei: 10 Best Things to Do & More.
- Looking to explore Chiang Khan and its wonderful tourist attractions? You are going to need this travel guide: Chiang Khan Travel Guide: 8 Best Things to Do & More.
- Nong Khai is often overlooked by many travelers traveling between Thailand and Laos, but there's so much to do here. If you are interested to explore more of the frontier province of Nong Khai, check out: Explore Nong Khai: 12 Best Things to Do & More.
- Bueng Kan is emerging as Isaan’s new adventure hotspot, known for the famous Naka Cave, Phu Tok mountain, scenic waterfalls, and more. If you're planning a trip to Bueng Kan, don't miss this: Discover Bueng Kan: 10 Best Things to Do & More.
- The walking street and riverside views along the Mekong in Nakhon Phanom are absolutely legendary, and a must-visit in Isaan. If you’re planning a visit, don’t miss my full guide here: Visit Nakhon Phanom: 10 Best Things to Do & More.
- Sleepy Sakon Nakhon is full of surprises—from the colonial French buildings of Tha Rae Village to hidden Khmer temples tucked away in the jungle. Check out this complete travel guide to Sakon Nakhon: Exploring Sakon Nakhon: 10 Best Things to Do & More.
- Udon Thani is a big city with tons of things to do. If you plan to visit Udon Thani, be sure to check out this travel guide: Discover Udon Thani: 10 Awesome Things to Do & More.
- If you’re driving through Nong Bua Lamphu and wondering if there are any places worth seeing, check out this travel guide: Visit Nong Bua Lamphu: 8 Incredible Things to Do & More.
- Khon Kaen is a big province with plenty to do. If you want to visit but aren’t sure where to start, this guide is for you: Discover Khon Kaen: 12 Awesome Things to Do & More.
- Kalasin may be a small province in Isaan, but that doesn’t mean there’s nothing to do. If you’re passing through, be sure to check this out: Kalasin Guide: 8 Best Things to Do & More.
- Mukdahan may not be as popular as other Mekong towns like Chiang Khan or Nakhon Phanom, but it offers a laid-back vibe and chill atmosphere unlike its larger counterparts. Don’t skip Mukdahan! Here’s a complete travel guide to help you explore this lovely province: Exploring Mukdahan: 10 Cool Things to Do & More.
- If you are passing through Amnat Charoen and are wondering what there is to do there, then check out this guide: Visit Amnat Charoen: 9 Best Things to Do & More.
- Yasothon is where the famous Bun Bung Fai Festival or rocket festival takes place, and it's home to some really charming Isaan attractions not many people know about. Here's a complete guide to Yasothon: Discover Yasothon: 10 Incredible Things to Do & More.
- Roi Et is definitely one of my favorite provinces in Isaan, thanks to its beautiful and modern city center, iconic landmarks like the Roi Et Tower, and more. If you’re interested in visiting Roi Et, be sure to check out Explore Roi Et: 12 Amazing Things to Do & More.
- If you are wondering what to do in Maha Sarakham, this guide is for you: Visiting Maha Sarakham: 9 Amazing Things to Do & More.
- If you like mountains and are looking for a true hidden gem of Isaan, which is already a hidden gem in itself, you might want to check out Chaiyaphum, all as I called it the land of beautiful cliffs. Here's a complete guide to Chaiyaphum: Discover Chaiyaphum: 12 Incredible Things to Do & More.
- Interested in learning more about the unique music of Isaan? Check out this guide: The Sounds of Isaan: Thai Psychedelic Music Unknown to Many – A Guide to Mor Lam.
- Looking for a complete travel guide to Southeast Asia? You should check out our 3-Month Backpacking Itinerary for Southeast Asia.
- Looking for an itinerary for Thailand? Check out One Month Itinerary for Thailand.
- If you are traveling to Thailand, it is important for you to know what you should and shouldn't do. Here are 10 Tips for Traveling in Thailand.
- Thai Street Foods are among the best in the world, and to help guide you through the street food cuisine of Thailand, be sure to check out the 15 Best Street Foods in Thailand to Try.
- Learning a bit of Thai phrases will go a long way for you when you visit Thailand. Here are 15 Thai Phrases You Should Know.
- Photos are worth a thousand words, but what is worth more than photos? A video. Here are travel videos I made for Thailand: Timeless Thailand, a journey into the North of Thailand, Long Tail Thailand, exploring the beautiful south of Thailand, and taking it slow with Slowed Down Bangkok travel video.
- Wondering where to go after Thailand? How about continuing on to Malaysia, Myanmar, or Indonesia?
- Want to explore other parts of Thailand? How about exploring Northern Thailand, Southern Thailand or Central Thailand?
- Want to travel from Thailand to Vientiane, Laos? Check this guide out: How to Get From Thailand to Vientiane, Laos & Vice Versa.
- Looking to cross the border from Thailand to Pakse in Southern Laos? Check out: How to Get From Bangkok/Ubon Ratchathani to Pakse, Laos, and Vice Versa.
- Want to cross the border from Mukdahan to Savannakhet in Laos and vice versa? Check out: How to Get From Bangkok/Mukdahan to Savannakhet, Laos & Vice Versa.
- For all articles about Thailand, visit the Thailand Travel Guide page.
- Looking to travel to Southeast Asia? Check out all my articles about Southeast Asia here: Southeast Asia Travel Guide page.
- You can see all my Asia-related articles here: Asia Travel Guide page.
- For more of my travel guides like this, visit my Destinations page.
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