How I Visited Artsakh, the Country That Doesn't Exist

Quick Facts about Traveling to Artsakh

1. Artsakh can only be entered from Armenia.
2. You do NOT need to prepare anything before you enter Artsakh. You can get a tourist visa at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Stepanakert (the capital city) within 24 hours of entering the border, no problem.
3. The main currency used is the Armenian Dram so no need to worry about exchanging money.
4. Having an Artsakh stamp on your passport will render you a criminal in Azerbaijan, and you will not be allowed to go into Azerbaijan. Thankfully, you can ask them to stamp it on a piece of paper instead, so if you are planning to go to Azerbaijan, tell the people at the ministry to get it separately.
5. The internet situation is pretty bad. Only a few up-scaled places have WiFi.
6. The accommodation situation is also pretty bad. You can find good hotels on the Internet, but for budget hotels, you will have to rely on the Lonely Planet or WikiTravel.
7. Be sure to find hotels from here beforehand otherwise, you will get stuck with a crappy hotel owner like I did. He was hovering around the bus station, and it seemed like a great idea since it was almost dark when I arrived.

Awesome Things to Do in Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh)

1. Check out the "We Are Our Mountains" national memorial

An impressive monument, iconic to Artsakh, which is only a bus ride away from Stepanakert. The sculpture is regarded as a symbol of the Armenian heritage of Artsakh.

2. Walk Around the Stepanakert Square

This is where the cool kids hang out, with plenty of restaurants, clubs, an open-air park, and a miniature version of the Cascade for you to check out.

3. Learn the history in the many museums in Artsakh

The Artsakh State Museum is a good place to learn the history of this area from ancient times until today. Throughout the years of war between Artsakh and Azerbaijan, the museum has managed to gather and save all the spiritual and material values of the Artsakh people and store them here.

The Museum to the Memory of Perished Azatamartiks is a unique museum built to preserve the memory of perished freedom fighters during the war. You will see all the faces of those who died fighting for independence and the items used during the war.

4. Do a day trip to Shushi

Shushi is a ghost town devastated by the war between Artsakh and Azerbaijan. The town was once the second biggest city in the region, second only to Tbilisi, before the massacre in 1920 that burned the whole place to the ground. You can still see the remnants of those good years in ruins and decaying structures where the locals still strive. It was both impressive and sad at the same time to walk around the town and see what the locals have to deal with on a daily basis.

5. Pray at the Ghazanchetsots Cathedral

While in Shushi, visit the cathedral that stands proudly in the middle of the town. This all-white limestone cathedral serves as the main cathedral and headquarters of the Armenian Apostolic Church's Diocese of Artsakh.

6. Stay with a local in Vank (Vəngli)

Vank is a small town located north of Stepanakert, best known for an Armenian church on top of a mountain and where a Russian millionaire built a Titanic hotel at the foot of the village.

There is only one hotel here in Vank, which is expensive. If you are a budget-conscious traveler like I am, you can go into people's homes and ask if they can host you for a night.

Here's what we did:

We walked past the Titanic hotel, up the hill toward the church, and stumbled upon a small bakery along the road, where we asked if they had a bed for us. They did and charged us 5,000 drams per night while we slept on the floor. It was awesome!

The approximate house location where we stayed that night.

7. Hike to the Gandzasar Monastery

From Vank, you can hike up the mountain to the Gandzasar Monastery, another cool Armenian church with a panoramic view of the mountain range surrounding Vank. The scenery, especially during sunset, makes the 1-hour hike worthwhile.

Getting Out of Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh)

You can either get out the normal way, the same way you came in through Stepanakert, or you can do what we did: go through the unguarded border in the north, specifically through the mountainous Sotk Pass.

From Vank, we did not have the luxury of returning to Stepanakert, so we hitchhiked our way from Vank to Heyvali for a lunch break and tried to hitchhike to Dadivank. We made it there, but after seeing the deserted town, we decided to go further and return to Armenia. There were no security checks this time as we went through the mountainous region of northern Artsakh. We crossed the border into Armenia and ended our adventure in Artsakh.

How to Get to Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh)?

The best way to get here is to fly into Yerevan, Armenia, and cross the border from the Armenian side. I would recommend you browse through Skyscanner or Expedia to find all the cheap flights from where you live to Armenia and compare them so that you can find the one that best fits your itinerary.

Entering the country can be tricky if you rely on the outdated information you find online. I was there in 2015, and this is what I had to do to enter the country:

1. Take an early morning marshrutka (minivan) from Yerevan to Stepanakert from the international bus station. Normally, the marshrutka starts at 6:00, 7:00, and 8:00, but no exact schedule is available, so ask your hotel before you leave. I was there at 8:30, and the bus left at 10. The ride was approximately 6 hours.
2. At the border, there will be a checkpoint. The security guards will ask for your passport, and they will give you a piece of paper with the contact info of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. This is where you will have to go to get your tourist visa the next day.
3. Rest well; the next day, ask your hotel for a transfer to the ministry. You must fill out a form, and then they will give you a stamp. They will also ask you which port you will be leaving the country from so they can mention it on your tourist visa.
4. Once you get the stamp, you can roam the country as you like, but avoid roaming the country's east border since there are still landmines scattered in the area.

How to Get Around Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh)

Transportation is easy in Stepanakert but tricky everywhere else. In Stepanakert, navigating the city is pretty straightforward, with buses running everywhere. However, when it comes to traveling from one town to another, you will have to rely mostly on marshrutka, a taxi, or hitchhiking.

Marshrutka runs a few times per day to and from Stepanakert, but that is it. If you rely solely on the marshrutka, then you will have to go back and forth between your destination and Stepanakert, which means you might have to stay overnight in Stepanakert to connect to another marshrutka bound for small villages like Vank or Shushi.

Taxis are easy to find in Stepanakert but nowhere else outside of the capital city. You will have difficulty finding transportation from small towns.

Hitchhiking is the only viable transportation I found that took me to places I wanted to go without wasting money and time. You will be fine if you start your day early (because it can take a while, and you might need to make connections from one town to another) and communicate your destination with your driver correctly. People are very nice and welcoming, especially towards foreigners, which makes hitchhiking common in Artsakh, even among the locals. You will have no trouble finding someone to pick you up.

Daily Budget

Compared to others, this place is incredibly affordable. You can expect to spend around $20 - $30 USD per day per person, which includes both accommodation and food.

Please keep in mind that these are suggested daily budgets based on my own style of travel, which leans more towards the budget side of things. If you aim to stick to this budget, anticipate sleeping in dormitories, dining out only occasionally, and being comfortable with the cheapest and most convenient modes of transportation, which often involve a considerable amount of walking.

What to Pack for Artsakh?

As you may already know, I am an advocate of light traveling, and indeed, packing light for a journey like this is a unique art form. Here are some packing tips for your upcoming trip to Artsakh:

• Walking/Hiking Shoes: With all the walking and possible hiking during your travel, a comfortable pair of shoes is a must. I recommend the Timberland 3-Eye Classic Boat Shoes that are my go-to pair for long strolls and hikes.
• Breathable Shirts: Given the potential for hot weather, pack a few breathable shirts for your outdoor adventures.
• Shorts/Jeans: Anticipate lots of walking during your travels? Be sure to pack some breathable shorts and a pair of Levi's jeans for when the weather cools. For women, leggings are excellent for both hot and cold climates, so consider packing some as well.
• Fleece Jacket: For colder weather, layering is the key, and a fleece jacket makes an excellent insulating layer. I recommend the Columbia Steens Mountain Fleece (for women).
• Outer Shell Jacket: An outer shell jacket is great for windy or rainy conditions. I highly recommend the Columbia Watertight Jacket (for women). It's lightweight, breathable, and even comes in a cool orange color.
• Microfiber Towel: A Microfiber towel is the ideal backpacker's towel due to its lightness, quick drying, and compressibility.
• Camera: You should also pack a good camera for your trip so that you can capture all the beautiful experiences you might have. I recommend the Sony a7R V camera together with the Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM II lens, which is probably the highest-performance camera and lens combination you can get right now.
• Power Bank: Keep your electronics charged on the go with a 20,000+ mAh Power Bank.
• Water Bottle: The Hydro Flask Trail Water Bottle is a great insulated water bottle to have with you in cities or on hiking trails. It is lightweight and can keep your water cold or warm for more than 12 hours. It's a total game-changer.
• Universal Adapter: You'll need just one universal adapter to plug in your electronics in any country you visit.
• Packing Cubes: Packing Cubes will help you save space in your backpack and keep all your belongings organized.
• Daypack: The Langly Alpha Globetrotter is my go-to everyday camera backpack. It's large enough to carry all my travel gear, and it comes with plenty of slots and pouches. Plus, it's stylish as hell!
• Large Backpack: You will need a large backpack to carry all of your stuff. I recommend the Osprey Atmos AG 65L backpack. With excellent weight distribution and a lifetime guarantee, you can't go wrong with Osprey.

For more information on what I pack in my backpack for this trip, check out: My Packing List: 60 Travel Essentials.

Now that we have all the information we need, it's time to start planning your trip! Here are some resources to help you get going:

Flights: Skyscanner and Expedia are the best places to start looking for cheap flights and great deals from your home country.

Accommodation: Hostelworld, Booking.com, and Agoda.com are the ultimate go-to platforms to search for amazing hostels and hotels at affordable prices.

Travel Insurance: Heymondo covers theft, medical emergencies, cancellations, and more during your travels. Get a 5% discount if you sign up today.

Transportation: For buses, I always go with Omio when traveling in Artsakh while for trains, Omio is my go-to place to book all my train travels in advance.

Car Rental: DiscoverCars.com is a great and reliable platform to find rental cars.

Internet: Airalo is the best way to get a sim card and has reliable internet access for your trip. All you need is an esim compatible smartphone, install it on your phone prior to your trip, and you are all set.

VPN: To stay connected with people at home, I always make sure to have ProtonVPN, installed before traveling. It's FREE, and I can gain access to services that may be blocked in certain countries.

Day Trips & Tours: Viator, GetYourGuide and TripAdvisor are great platforms to search for trips and tours to join.

Tickets & Deals: Klook is always my go-to website when I want to find cheaper deals for entrance tickets to tourist attractions.

Are you planning to travel independently? Be sure to check out my guide on How To Plan A Backpacking Trip here.

Further Reading for Artsakh and the Caucasus

If you are looking for more articles about Artsakh and its neighbors, here are a few articles that might help you plan your trip.

• Tbilisi is one of the most vibrant and creative capital cities in the Caucasus and has attracted tourists for centuries. It is a must-visit when you are in the area. Check out my 15 Incredible Things to Do in Tbilisi.
• Looking to do some hiking or cycling in Georgia? There's no better place than Kazbegi. Here's the A Complete Travel Guide to Kazbegi.
• Want to learn more about the countries in the Caucasus region? You should definitely visit Armenia. Here's an awesome 11 Best Things to Do in Yerevan, the capital city of Armenia, you might like.
• Lake Sevan in Armenia is a great vacation/adventure place you can visit while you are in Armenia. Here's a travel guide on things to do in Lake Sevan.
• If you are currently traveling in Turkey and want to get to Georgia, here’s a guide on how to cross the border from Turkey to Georgia via Kars.
• Want to travel to Azerbaijan? Be sure to check out our 2-week itinerary for Azerbaijan.
• You can also watch my Georgia travel video here: "Mother Georgia" travel video.
• And of course, my Armenia and Artsakh travel video is here: "Armenia 100 Years Later" travel video.
• If you are looking for a travel video for Azerbaijan, I also have that too here: Azerbaijan, The Land Of Fire Travel Video.
• To see all articles about Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan, visit the Georgia Travel Guide, the Armenia Travel Guide, or the Azerbaijan Travel Guide pages.
• Looking for more travel guides for the Caucasus? You can find more on my Caucasus Travel Guide page.
• For more of my travel guides, visit my Destinations page.