A Backpacking Travel Guide to Khinaliq and Laza

Best Places to visit in the Caucasus Mountains, Azerbaijan?

1. Quba

Our journey begins in one of the oldest cities in Azerbaijan, Quba. To be honest, there are not a whole lot of things to do in Quba except a few attractions here and there, but we are not in Quba for the city alone. We are here to plan our next move into the Caucasus mountains.

After a 2-hour bus journey from Baku to Quba, you can spend the rest of the day walking around the city and planning your transportation to Khinaliq and Laza, along with your accommodation.

Notable places to visit in Quba are Juma Mosque, a 19th-century red-brick mosque, and Quba Genocide Memorial Complex, a museum dedicated to the memory of victims of the March Days, a period of troubled time during which 12,000 Azerbaijanis and other Muslims were massacred in Baku.

For the trip to Khinaliq and Laza the next day, make sure to arrange a taxi driver with your accommodation before the day ends so that the driver can pick you up early. To visit Khinaliq and Laza on the same day, it is crucial to start your day as early as possible. 9 AM is a good time to instruct your driver to pick you up.

The taxi to Khinaliq and Laza (same trip) should not cost more than 130 AZN. If you organize your taxi with Hostel Elvin, the price will be fixed at 70 AZN to Khinaliq and 60 AZN to Laza, so it should be pretty straightforward.

If you are finding your own taxi driver, be sure to haggle hard. I tried finding one myself just to compare prices, but they all seem to want 100 AZN only to go to Khinaliq. God knows how much more they want if you tell them to go to Laza as well.

I would also recommend that you buy some snacks for your trip, as you won't be able to buy anything in Khinaliq and Laza since there are no shops for you to do so. For lunch, you can ask your driver to stop somewhere in Quba, as you will have to pass through the city again to get from Khinaliq to Laza.

2. Khinaliq

At 9 AM sharp the next day, your driver should be waiting for you in front of your accommodation, and they will take you to Khinaliq. The best thing about hiring a taxi driver is that you can tell them to stop for photos anytime, and you are going to do it a lot along the road from Quba to Khinaliq.

Looking around in Quba, the landscape might not look very impressive, but the moment you get out of town and the road starts to go through the canyons, you will know that you are now in the Lesser Caucasus mountains.

As the road twists and turns, you will arrive at an opening where the road will take you along a riverbed through the valley and up to Khinaliq, an ancient Caucasian village located 2,350m above sea level.

You should arrive in Khinaliq in about 45 minutes, where you can spend a few hours walking and chilling at the top of the village. There, you can get a panoramic view of the village and the landscape surrounding it.

Legend has it that this settlement has been inhabited for the past 5,000 years. It is considered to be one of the oldest villages in the region. Due to its isolation, they have been able to preserve their language, traditions, and indigenous roots.

One of my favorite places to sit and relax while looking at the breathtaking scenery of Khinaliq is at the Juma Mosque located on the highest point of the village. Be sure to hike all the way up there for a rewarding view.

There are around 2,000 people living in Khinaliq, and most of them are very welcoming and quite curious to see you visiting their village, so do not hesitate to talk to them when they run up to you. The kids in the village are especially great at communicating in English.

After spending an hour or two relaxing at the top of Khinaliq, slowly make your way down to where your taxi is parked, and off you go to Laza. In the meantime, if you are hungry, ask your driver to stop somewhere in Quba and grab lunch before heading to Laza.

3. Laza

Laza is another mountain village located 1,300m above sea level at the foot of Mount Shahdagh. Due to the high cliff face and the number of waterfalls one can find in this area, Laza is one of the most popular destinations for local tourists to visit.

After about an hour of zigzagging through mountains, you will arrive at a pass overlooking a valley where you will see the grandeur of Laza and all its numerous waterfalls.

The taxi will drive you down into the valley and park at the foot of a huge cliffside, where you will see 3 large waterfalls near each other. You can spend an hour hiking around the waterfall and checking it out up close if you don't mind being sprayed by it.

The landscape around Laza is pretty incredible, especially if the sun is out. So, be sure to spend some time hiking up some of the hills near the waterfall, so you can appreciate the true beauty of the landscape around Laza.

After a few hours of walking around the waterfall, you can sit, relax, and enjoy the view at one of the many outdoor cafes near the parking lot. A cup of coffee or tea costs only 1 AZN per cup.

After 2-3 hours at Laza, it is time to head back to Quba. In about an hour, you will be back at your cozy accommodation in Quba, feeling accomplished for all the things you have seen in the Caucasus mountains in one day.

You can end your day on a high note with an organic dinner at Hostel Elvin for 10 AZN before retiring for the night and make your way back to Baku the next day.

Where to Stay in Quba, Azerbaijan?

Budget

ElVin

Double Room | $

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👍 Top Pick

Mid-Range

Gold Hotel Quba

Twin Room | $$

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High-End

Quba Palace Hotel

Double room with mountain view | $$$

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When to Visit Khinaliq, Laza, and the Caucasus mountains?

The best time to visit Khinaliq, Laza, and the Caucasus mountains is during the summer months of July - August when the road to Khinaliq should no longer be covered in snow, allowing you to travel easily with a normal car.

Unlike in the lowlands of Azerbaijan, where the temperature could reach 40°C in the summer months, in the highlands of Khinaliq and Laza, the temperature will hover around 20°C during the day, which is perfect for spending your days outside exploring.

I would avoid visiting this part of the country in winter entirely, as the road will likely be covered in thick snow, making it almost impossible to reach these places even with a 4WD.

How to Get to Quba, Azerbaijan?

How to Get to Baku?

Quba is the nearest city to the Lesser Caucasus, making it a great base to launch yourself to Khinaliq and Laza. However, in order to get there, you will first have to get yourself to Baku, the capital city of Azerbaijan.

Baku has a very well-established connection with Istanbul and Ankara, so you can easily fly into the city via Turkish Airlines or Pegasus Airlines.

From the US, there are no direct flights to Baku, but you can fly via Turkish Airlines to Istanbul or Ankara and transfer to Baku from there.

From within Europe, you should be able to fly directly from the UK via Azerbaijan Airlines, from Paris via Air France, or from Frankfurt via Lufthansa.

From Asia, there is no direct flight from the Far East to Baku, but the region is pretty well-connected via Turkish Airlines so you can fly to Baku via Istanbul or Ankara. Other Middle Eastern airlines like Qatar, Emirates, and Etihad Airlines are also great options as well.

To find a cheap flight to Baku, I would recommend using Skyscanner or Expedia to look for the cheapest route and schedule, so you can compare and pick the best one.

Looking for a complete backpacking guide to Baku?14 BEST Things To Do In Baku, Azerbaijan

How to Get from Baku to Quba?

From Baku, you will have to take a bus to Quba from Baku International Bus Terminal, located in the northern part of the city.

To get to the bus terminal from the city center, you can either call a taxi via Bolt (Android|iOS) or take the metro to Avtovaghzal Station for 0.3 AZN per trip.

The bus from Baku to Quba runs every 30 minutes from 7:30 AM to 5:55 PM, costing 4 AZN per person. The journey will take about 2 hours. You do not need to book in advance for this bus, as several buses operate daily.

You can also rent a taxi for 40 AZN per car, and the driver will take you directly to Quba or vice versa.

For an official bus schedule and booking, you can check out the Baku International Bus Terminal Complex official website here.

How to Get Around the Caucasus Mountains, Azerbaijan?

It used to be that we were required to rent a 4WD jeep to travel anywhere in the Lesser Caucasus Mountains in Azerbaijan. However, after the government saw the importance of tourism in this part of the country, they managed to build enough paved roads so that we can explore without needing a 4WD.

That said, public transportation is still lackluster in this part of the country, so we will have to rely on taxis to take us from Quba to Khinaliq and Laza.

How To Get to Khinaliq, Azerbaijan?

The fastest and most convenient way to get from Baku to Quba and Khinaliq is to go with an organized tour. You can visit 2 places, except Laza, easily with the Quba Khinaliq from Baku Group Tour, which costs only around 60 USD per person. This is not bad considering you are going directly from Baku.

If the schedule is a little tight for you and you want to spend a little more time in Quba, Khinaliq, and Laza, it is recommended to spend a night in Quba. From Quba to Khinaliq, you can then hire a local taxi driver to take you to Khinaliq and Laza and back. The regular taxi driver at the bus station will charge you 100 AZN for a round trip, which is way too expensive.

You can get it cheaper by hiring a taxi driver through your accommodation. Hostel Elvin can organize the taxi for you for 70 AZN roundtrip. If you are looking for a one-way trip, in case you want to stay overnight in Khinaliq (there are some homestays there), it will be 35 AZN one way. However, you will have to find a way out yourself, which is almost impossible.

It takes around 45 minutes to get from Quba to Khinaliq, and you will go through some of the most stunning landscapes you will ever see in Azerbaijan. You can spend a few hours in Khinaliq before heading back to Quba. For more details on what to do in Khinaliq, check out our Khinaliq section below.

There is, however, this one elusive marshrutka (mini-bus) that goes from Quba to Khinaliq early in the morning one time every day, but I was unable to find one, so I wouldn't recommend relying on public transportation to get to Khinaliq.

Plus, you will be stuck there for a day without an easy way out, as Khinaliq is very remote, and you will rarely find any cars passing through. So, hitchhiking is out of the question.

All in all, I highly recommend you hire a taxi through Hostel Elvin to get there, spend about an hour or two exploring Khinaliq, and then return.

How To Get to Laza, Azerbaijan?

To get to Laza, you will have to go back to Quba again and take another road to Laza. There is no direct connection between Khinaliq and Laza, nor is there any public transportation. Therefore, the best way to travel to Laza is via taxis.

Here is a tip: for a regular trip from Quba to Laza, individually, the taxi will charge you 70 AZN, which is the same as going to Khinaliq. However, if you combine the two trips into a one-day trip, you will only have to pay 70 AZN for Khinaliq as usual, but you will only pay 60 AZN for your Laza trip, saving you 10 AZN.

So, the best way to travel to Laza is to hire a taxi and combine your Khinaliq trip and Laza trip together into a one-day trip. The entire trip (Khinaliq + Laza) will cost you 130 AZN, which is a bit pricey. So, I would recommend that you find some more people at the hostel to do the trip with.

Should I Stay Overnight in Khinaliq or Laza?

I have pondered this question myself before my trip, but after seeing both Khinaliq and Laza, I would not recommend staying overnight in either of these places.

The landscape around Khinaliq is nice, but the village itself is quite raw and sleepy. I don't think there are enough things to do to justify staying overnight in Khinaliq.

The hiking looks nice around Khinaliq, but there are no official trails or notable viewpoints you can hike to. Plus, Khinaliq is near the Russian border, so I don't think the security would be happy to see a random tourist wandering around this area.

Laza, on the other hand, offers much nicer accommodation options and the possibility of finding beautiful hiking trails that may lead to a stunning reward. However, as mentioned earlier, there is no reliable public transportation connecting Laza to Quba. Therefore, I would not recommend staying overnight if you do not have your own vehicle.

How Many Days to Spend in Quba, Azerbaijan?

With the recommended transportation option I provided earlier, you can see both Khinaliq and Laza all in one day, so I think it is enough to stay 2 nights in Quba.

Day 0: On the day you arrive in Quba, you can go ahead and walk around the city, which should not take long as there is not much to do in Quba. After you are done, you can plan your Khinaliq and Laza trip, including your accommodation, and then have dinner there before ending the day.

Day 1: Explore Khinaliq in the morning and Laza in the afternoon. Spend the rest of the day relaxing in Quba before leaving the next day.

Day 2: Head back to Baku.

How Much Money Do I Need for the Caucasus Mountains, Azerbaijan?

From the rough itinerary above, we can calculate the minimum amount you will spend on this trip to Khinaliq and Laza. Here is a rough estimate of how much money you will likely spend on this trip.

Accommodation: 24 USD x 2 nights = 48 USD (81.60 AZN), less if you can share a room with someone.

Food: A good organic meal at your accommodation will cost around 10 AZN per meal. Breakfast can be cheaper if you buy from the supermarket the day before. Approximately, you will spend around 25 AZN per day on food, so you will spend around 50 AZN for food for the entire trip.

Transportation: This is the most expensive of all. For a roundtrip to Khinaliq and Laza with a taxi, it will cost you 130 AZN, less if you can share the taxi with someone.

Activities: Most of the money is being spent on transportation, so $0 for activities.

Total Budget: 261.60 AZA (153.88 USD)

Is it Safe in the Caucasus Mountains, Azerbaijan?

In general, it is very safe in Quba and the Caucasus Mountains, but do beware of the food you eat in Quba. A friend of mine got food poisoning the day after we ate at some random cafes in Quba, so watch what you eat here.

Your safest bet is to either buy from the supermarket and cook your own food or eat at your own accommodation. They often cook organic food for guests upon request. Dinner at Hostel Elvin is amazing, so be sure to try it there.

Which tourist SIM card is best for Azerbaijan?

Update: If your phone supports eSIM, I highly recommend checking out Airalo, a global eSIM marketplace. It allows you to stay connected affordably while traveling in Quba, Azerbaijan without having to switch out your physical SIM card.

Gone are the days when you needed to scramble to find a local SIM card at an airport upon arrival. You can purchase an eSIM before your arrival, and you'll be good to go. If your phone doesn't support eSIM, here is how you can get a local SIM card in Quba, Azerbaijan:

WIFI is available in Quba but is very unreliable, and that's just about it. You won't find any WIFI in Khinaliq or Laza, not even if you have a local SIM card, so forget about staying connected while you are exploring Khinaliq and Laza.

If you are visiting Quba, Khinaliq, and Laza as part of a bigger trip to Azerbaijan, I would recommend getting a local SIM card, ideally from Azercell. They have a 3G connection in Quba, which should help you stay connected while you are there.

Azercell is a great option if you are looking to buy a local SIM card. You can buy one right at the airport when you arrive. The price ranges from 29 AZN (1 GB) all the way to 65 AZN (unlimited data), depending on the amount of data you need.

I would recommend that you get around 5 GB of data (40 AZN), especially if you are planning to travel further in Azerbaijan after Baku.

For more information about Azerbaijan local SIM card: Azerbaijan Prepaid Data SIM Card.

Tips: To stay connected with people at home, be sure that you have a VPN, such as ProtonVPN, installed before traveling. It's FREE, and you can gain access to services that may be blocked in certain countries.

What to Pack for Quba, Azerbaijan?

As you may already know, I am an advocate of light traveling, and indeed, packing light for a journey like this is a unique art form. Here are some packing tips for your upcoming trip to Quba, Azerbaijan:

• Walking/Hiking Shoes: With all the walking and possible hiking during your travel, a comfortable pair of shoes is a must. I recommend the Timberland 3-Eye Classic Boat Shoes that are my go-to pair for long strolls and hikes.
• Breathable Shirts: Given the potential for hot weather, pack a few breathable shirts for your outdoor adventures.
• Shorts/Jeans: Anticipate lots of walking during your travels? Be sure to pack some breathable shorts and a pair of Levi's jeans for when the weather cools. For women, leggings are excellent for both hot and cold climates, so consider packing some as well.
• Fleece Jacket: For colder weather, layering is the key, and a fleece jacket makes an excellent insulating layer. I recommend the Columbia Steens Mountain Fleece (for women).
• Outer Shell Jacket: An outer shell jacket is great for windy or rainy conditions. I highly recommend the Columbia Watertight Jacket (for women). It's lightweight, breathable, and even comes in a cool orange color.
• Microfiber Towel: A Microfiber towel is the ideal backpacker's towel due to its lightness, quick drying, and compressibility.
• Camera: You should also pack a good camera for your trip so that you can capture all the beautiful experiences you might have. I recommend the Sony a7R V camera together with the Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM II lens, which is probably the highest-performance camera and lens combination you can get right now.
• Power Bank: Keep your electronics charged on the go with a 20,000+ mAh Power Bank.
• Water Bottle: The Hydro Flask Trail Water Bottle is a great insulated water bottle to have with you in cities or on hiking trails. It is lightweight and can keep your water cold or warm for more than 12 hours. It's a total game-changer.
• Universal Adapter: You'll need just one universal adapter to plug in your electronics in any country you visit.
• Packing Cubes: Packing Cubes will help you save space in your backpack and keep all your belongings organized.
• Daypack: The Langly Alpha Globetrotter is my go-to everyday camera backpack. It's large enough to carry all my travel gear, and it comes with plenty of slots and pouches. Plus, it's stylish as hell!
• Large Backpack: You will need a large backpack to carry all of your stuff. I recommend the Osprey Atmos AG 65L backpack. With excellent weight distribution and a lifetime guarantee, you can't go wrong with Osprey.

For more information on what I pack in my backpack for this trip, check out: My Packing List: 60 Travel Essentials.

Now that we have all the information we need, it's time to start planning your trip! Here are some resources to help you get going:

Flights: Skyscanner and Expedia are the best places to start looking for cheap flights and great deals from your home country.

Accommodation: Hostelworld, Booking.com, and Agoda.com are the ultimate go-to platforms to search for amazing hostels and hotels at affordable prices.

Travel Insurance: Heymondo covers theft, medical emergencies, cancellations, and more during your travels. Get a 5% discount if you sign up today.

Transportation: For buses, I always go with Omio when traveling in Quba, Azerbaijan while for trains, Omio is my go-to place to book all my train travels in advance.

Car Rental: DiscoverCars.com is a great and reliable platform to find rental cars.

Internet: Airalo is the best way to get a sim card and has reliable internet access for your trip. All you need is an esim compatible smartphone, install it on your phone prior to your trip, and you are all set.

VPN: To stay connected with people at home, I always make sure to have ProtonVPN, installed before traveling. It's FREE, and I can gain access to services that may be blocked in certain countries.

Day Trips & Tours: Viator, GetYourGuide and TripAdvisor are great platforms to search for trips and tours to join.

Tickets & Deals: Klook is always my go-to website when I want to find cheaper deals for entrance tickets to tourist attractions.

Are you planning to travel independently? Be sure to check out my guide on How To Plan A Backpacking Trip here.

Further Reading for Azerbaijan

Looking for more information for your trip to Azerbaijan? Here is a collection of articles about Azerbaijan that you might find useful.

• Looking for a complete travel guide to Azerbaijan? Check out: 2-Week Itinerary for Azerbaijan.
• The hypermodern capital city of Baku is unlike any other city in the Caucasus. It's full of surprises, and you will need a good guide to see them all. Here are 14 BEST Things To Do In Baku, Azerbaijan.
• Standing on the ancient Silk Road, Sheki is a historical town rich in history and culture. To visit Sheki, check out: Top 7 Things To Do In Sheki, Azerbaijan.
• Ganja, the second largest city in Azerbaijan with a name that is hard to forget, has a ton of hidden gems for you to explore, from Lake Goygol and Maralgol to the beautiful Imamzadeh Complex. Here’s everything you need to travel to Ganja: 8 Best Things To Do In Ganja, Azerbaijan.
• Nakhchivan, an autonomous exclave republic of Azerbaijan that is not attached to Azerbaijan itself due to conflict with Armenia, is a republic you will have to see for yourself. To travel there, check out The Ultimate Backpacking Guide To Nakhchivan.
• Looking for something more visual to convince you to visit Azerbaijan? How about a travel video? Azerbaijan, The Land Of Fire Travel Video
• Wondering where to go after Azerbaijan? How about dropping by the charming hipster city of Tbilisi and then visiting Yerevan, Armenia?
• For all articles about Azerbaijan, visit the Azerbaijan Travel Guide page.
• Looking to travel to the Caucasus Region? Check out all my articles about the region here: The Caucasus Travel Guide page.
• You can see all my Asia-related articles here: Asia Travel Guide page.
• For more of my travel guides like this, visit my Destinations page.