On April 11, 2014, after a 14-hour journey from Bangkok via Mumbai, I landed in Johannesburg and stepped onto African soil for the first time.
Africa had fascinated me since I was a kid. I remember seeing photographs of rural Kenya in geography books and wondering what life on the continent was really like. Years later, I was finally here, beginning my first trip to Africa in Soweto.
Rather than seeing it from a car window, I spent my first day cycling through the township. Over the next few hours, I rode past schools and neighborhoods, stopped at a shebeen, tried local food and beer, met people along the way, and learned about Soweto's history.
These photographs are from that first day, a slightly chaotic introduction to South Africa involving questionable bicycles, two flat tires, plenty of curious encounters, and one of the most memorable starts to any trip I had taken.
Africa Travel Video
Arriving in Soweto
The first item in my itinerary was to go on a bike tour around Soweto, one of the biggest historical townships in Jo'Burg, South Africa. I wanted to see the true African life up close with no filters, and there's no way to do that in the city unless you come here to Soweto and see for yourself.
My First Glimpse of Soweto
I had arranged a pickup from the airport because I didn't have much time. On the drive into Soweto, I caught my first glimpse of one of the remnants of the 2010 World Cup: FNB Stadium.
I stayed at Lebo's Soweto Backpackers, where I had reserved a place on a bike tour before arriving. The ride started in the morning and would take us through Soweto for the next few hours.
The hostel itself felt surprisingly peaceful, surrounded by high walls and vegetation. It became my base for this first day in Africa.
Cycling Through Soweto
I was early, so I got to pick my bike first. Some looked pretty decent. Others... not so much. I would end up getting two flat tires during the ride.
A beautifully decorated rickshaw near the start of the ride.
As we cycled past schools and neighborhoods, children would often wave, shout hello, and run alongside us for a while. Those little interactions became some of my favorite moments from the day.
Our first stop on the side of the road gave us a view of half of Soweto and the iconic Orlando power plant. It's a shame the bike tour didn't include seeing the power plant up close (or bungee jumping off it, for that matter).
Meet my bro, an awesome guide assistant who has helped me twice because of a flat tire on my bike. He smiled all the way throughout the tour. Such an awesome fellow.
Our second stop, we stepped inside the Shebeen as our guide explained the tradition of the Sowetan while putting us in traditional dress and trying out their traditional African beer "illegally" brewed in the Shebeen.
Umqombothi is what they call this beer. It's a traditional African beer made from maize and sorghum. The guide told me that the effect is nothing like the normal beer in supermarkets. The Umqombothi will go right to your knees, causing you to walk astray; hence, the warning.
Me in a traditional men's dress. It somewhat resembles the Thai Boxing dress of my country.
Cycling put us right among the neighborhoods rather than observing Soweto through a vehicle window, which made the day feel much more immediate.
After the shebeen stop, we continued through the neighborhood to try some local food.
One of the scenes I photographed as we made our way through the township.
Introducing the Nshima and grilled meat: the ultimate local delicacy. The meat tasted peppery, with a mix of salt and spice. It was, to tell you the truth, more delicious than the lunch they prepared for us afterward. A must-try!
The expedition consisted of me, Chasev (a friend I met during the tour), and a Dutch couple who had no trouble cycling at all. :)
Another glimpse of the Orlando Power Station as we continued through Soweto.
History, People, and the Streets of Soweto
As the ride continued, the focus shifted from everyday scenes to Soweto's political history. We stopped near Mandela's former home and passed places connected to the struggle against apartheid.
Me at Mandela's House. The house had been turned into a museum. The 4-hour tour didn't include the walk in the museum, so we had to leave after taking a few photos.
Got a special treat from these awesome street performers in Soweto that day. They danced and sang for donation, and boy, did I donate a bunch that day.
As we learned about the history of Apartheid, a bunch of school girls asked for a photo of me. Once in a blue moon, Asians travel around Soweto, so it was understandable. :)
With these friendly encounters with the locals, it set the tone for my African trip and made me fall even more in love with the African people.
At one point, some of the children playing along the road ran alongside our bikes. I asked the guide assistant to take this photo of one of those encounters.
A few hours after setting off, we rolled back to where we had started. My first day in Africa was already over.
I had arrived in South Africa with years of curiosity about the continent, and Soweto gave me a first day that was far more personal and lively than I had expected.
Those encounters set the tone for the rest of my journey. From Soweto, I would head next into the bush for my first safari in Kruger National Park.
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3 Comments
Great shoots!
Correction thou bro, Soweto is no slum just a township that's it
Fixed! Thank you for the heads up :)