Not many travelers make it all the way to Eastern Turkey when they visit the country, but for those who dare to step off the beaten path, you will be rewarded with sights of places like the ancient city of Ani that make it all worthwhile.
Ani, the ancient medieval Armenian City located on a vast empty plain of Eastern Turkey right by the border between Turkey and Armenia, is a beautiful ruin turned open-air museum that you can stroll around in and get to see why it's called the "City of 1001 Churches and 40 Gates".
Due to how remote Ani is, it can be quite tricky for backpackers and travelers to visit. However, with the first-hand information within this travel guide, you will have all the information you need to make this trip happen.
Without further ado, here is a complete travel guide to Ani, with all the information you need, like how to get there, where to stay, and what to see in the ancient city of Ani. First, let's take a look at the points of interest in Ani and Kars that you need to know before you make your journey below:
- Ani and Kars Points of Interest Map
- 7 Best Places to See in Ani, Turkey
- Turkey Travel Video
- Where to Stay in Kars, Turkey?
- When to Visit Ani, Turkey?
- How Much Money Do I Need For Ani, Turkey?
- Ani's Opening Hours
- Ani's Admission Fee
- What to Pack for Ani, Turkey?
- How to Travel to Ani, Turkey?
- Further Reading for Turkey
Ani and Kars Points of Interest Map
| 🌤️ Best time: | June-August |
| 🚘 Get around: | Tour and walk |
| 🏛️ Ticket: | 310 TRY |
| 🕓 Time to spend: | 3-4 hours |
7 Best Places to See in Ani, Turkey
1. The City Walls
Ani is an ancient Armenian city built between the 10th and 11th centuries, and it is a true city in every sense of the word, with more than 50 churches, 30 caves, and 20 chapels discovered so far. Some say there are more than a thousand structures that have yet to be excavated from this vast plain in Eastern Turkey.
And the first thing you will encounter when you arrive in Ani is its formidable City Walls that surrounded the city. The northern side of the city wall is the most well-preserved one, and you can really see just how well defended the city was.
Once you start walking around the edges of the city, you will start to notice the scale of the city walls in their entirety as they snake along the cliffsides and eventually encircle the entire city.
- Hotel Kent Ani (Budget)
- GRAND ANİ HOTEL (Mid-Range) 👍 Top Pick
- Hotel Katerina Sarayı (High-End)
- All-inclusive Private Guided Tour of Kars City (8 hours)
- Konya Airport KYA Transfers to Konya City Hotels (20 to 35 minutes)
- Limo service with English speaking driver (1 hour)
Continue along the main road of Ani, and you will see one of the most impressive structures of the entire ancient site of Ani: the Cathedral.
2. The Cathedral
The Cathedral is probably my favorite structure of all. It is the largest structure in Ani, and it is surprisingly well-preserved, with the main hall still pretty much intact and accessible.
Due to the collapsed center dome, during the day, the light will shine in through the open roof, illuminating the interior that must have been extremely dark if the roof was intact. One could only imagine what the church might have looked like back during its glory days.
3. The Church of Saint Gregory
Not too far from the Cathedral, looking west, you will find the Church of Saint Gregory, another impressive structure that is still left standing for us to see. This small church still has most of its exterior intact, with a little part of its base and roof being chipped away over time.
Due to its location right at the edge of a steep slope, the church makes for a great place to take a photo, as if the church is the only structure left on this vast plain. It really gives you a sense of scale when you look at the church against its backdrop.
4. Ani Citadel and The Church of Kizkale
Once you are done with the Church of Saint Gregory, continue south along the main road to the Citadel, or what is left of it, at least. Unfortunately, only the foundation of the Citadel is left, and not much else. But that is not why I want you to walk all the way here.
The real reason is The Church of Kizkale, which is a small church built on top of a steep promontory that is almost encircled by the Arkurian River. It is amazing how they were able to build such a big structure on such a narrow and steep cliff.
You can even walk to the church if you wish, but the trail is very steep, narrow, and not very safe. However, even if you don't climb it, you can still appreciate just how beautiful the church and its surroundings are from the Citadel Hill.
5. The Church of the Hripsimian Virgins
Once you are done at the Church of Kizkale, make your way back up north and turn east before the Cathedral, and you will stumble upon another impressive structure, the Church of the Hripsimian Virgins.
The Church of the Hripsimian Virgins is actually a monastery that stands photogenically right on the edge of a promontory overlooking the Arkurian River. This one you can actually visit as it is much easier to reach from the main Ani road.
The structure is mostly intact with the roof intact and the main dome still accessible, and you can still see some interlace patterns along the exterior of the monastery. It is one hell of a scenic monastery and offers you an incredible view of the Arkurian River, making it one of the best places to visit in Ani.
6. The Church of Tigran Honents
After visiting the Church of the Hripsimian Virgins, you can continue along the walking trail hugging the eastern edge of the ancient city and head north until you arrive at the Church of Tigran Honents.
The Church of Tigran Honents is another impressive structure that was constructed in the 11th Century. However, what makes this different from the other churches is that it was built as a Georgian Orthodox church during the time when Georgia ruled the area.
The church is probably the second biggest structure you will see in Ani, and with its unique diagonal cut on its roof and intact interior with beautiful frescoes for you to see, make sure that you make it all the way here when you are in Ani.
7. Kars Castle (Extra)
Last but not least, when you get back to Kars, make sure that you visit Kars Castle before you leave the city. Kars Castle is a fortress constructed in the 11th century by the Seljuks who ruled the area back in the day.
It had changed hands multiple times during its existence, from Mongolian invasions to the Ottomans, and the fortress was mostly used for military operations. So, there's not a whole lot to see inside, except for a small mosque that was rebuilt in 1990.
That said, there is a watchtower you can climb up to get to a viewpoint that will allow you to have a stunning vista over Kars city and its scenic surroundings.
Kars Castle opens from 10 AM to 5 PM every day, and the entrance is free for everyone, which is awesome. I highly recommend climbing up to the castle for an incredible sunrise or sunset experience.
Where to Stay in Kars, Turkey?
When to Visit Ani, Turkey?
While June - August is considered to be the peak season, I do not think it is the best time to visit Ani and Kars in Turkey. While it is a popular time to visit, you will also be dealing with more local tourist crowds, as well as the jacked-up prices of hotels, which is not ideal. Plus, it is probably one of the hottest months to visit, making it less enjoyable to explore Ani as there aren't many shades around.
What I would recommend instead is to visit during the shoulder seasons, either in May or in September, where the tourist crowds are starting to wind down and the prices of hotels are starting to fall back to their normal level.
Also, keep in mind that from May to June is Ramadan. And even though you won't have a problem finding food places like Istanbul, you won't be able to find anything to eat during the day in cities like Kars unless you prepare some food the day before. So, I would avoid visiting Kars during Ramadan.
How Much Money Do I Need For Ani, Turkey?
If you wish to visit Sumela Monastery independently, as I did, here is an approximation of how much you will be spending for this trip:
Accommodation: For 2 nights, it should cost around 50 USD (426.2 TRY) for accommodations.
Food: Food in Kars should cost around 20 TRY per meal, so you can expect to pay around 60 TRY for 1 day here.
Transportation: A bus from Kars to Ani will cost you around 18 TRY for a round trip, and that is all you have to pay for transportation.
Activities: The entrance fee to Ani is 22 TRY per person, and the entrance fee for Kars Castle is free. So, in total, you will pay 22 TRY for activities in Ani and Kars.
Total Budget for one day in Ani and Kars, Turkey: 526.2 TRY (61.7 USD)
Ani's Opening Hours
Ani's opening hours are between 9 AM and 7 PM every day in the summer and from 9 AM to 5 PM in winter, so be sure to plan your trip accordingly.
Ani's Admission Fee
The entrance fee to Ani is 310 TRY (8 EUR) per person as of 2024. You can pay for the ticket right before you enter the city walls. Some tours might include the entrance fee, but if you are planning to visit independently, you will have to pay the entrance fee on top of the roundtrip shuttle bus service. They do not accept credit cards, and there aren't any ATM around, so be sure to bring cash! If you have Muzekart (Museum Pass), the site is included, so no need to pay.
What to Pack for Ani, Turkey?
As you may already know, I am an advocate of light traveling, and indeed, packing light for a journey like this is a unique art form. Here are some packing tips for your upcoming trip to Ani, Turkey:
- Walking/Hiking Shoes: With all the walking and possible hiking during your travel, a comfortable pair of shoes is a must. I recommend the Timberland 3-Eye Classic Boat Shoes that are my go-to pair for long strolls and hikes.
- Breathable Shirts: Given the potential for hot weather, pack a few breathable shirts for your outdoor adventures.
- Shorts/Jeans: Anticipate lots of walking during your travels? Be sure to pack some breathable shorts and a pair of Levi's jeans for when the weather cools. For women, leggings are excellent for both hot and cold climates, so consider packing some as well.
- Outer Shell Jacket: An outer shell jacket is great for windy or rainy conditions. I highly recommend the Columbia Watertight Jacket (for women). It's lightweight, breathable, and even comes in a cool orange color.
- Microfiber Towel: A Microfiber towel is the ideal backpacker's towel due to its lightness, quick drying, and compressibility.
- Swim Suits: A swim trunk is a must-pack item if you are planning to visit Ani, Turkey in the summer, just in case there is a body of water you can jump in.
- Camera: You should also pack a good camera for your trip so that you can capture all the beautiful experiences you might have. I recommend the Sony a7R V camera together with the Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM II lens, which is probably the highest-performance camera and lens combination you can get right now.
- Power Bank: Keep your electronics charged on the go with a 20,000+ mAh Power Bank.
- Water Bottle: The Hydro Flask Trail Water Bottle is a great insulated water bottle to have with you in cities or on hiking trails. It is lightweight and can keep your water cold or warm for more than 12 hours. It's a total game-changer.
- Universal Adapter: You'll need just one universal adapter to plug in your electronics in any country you visit.
- Packing Cubes: Packing Cubes will help you save space in your backpack and keep all your belongings organized.
- Daypack: The Langly Alpha Globetrotter is my go-to everyday camera backpack. It's large enough to carry all my travel gear, and it comes with plenty of slots and pouches. Plus, it's stylish as hell!
- Large Backpack: You will need a large backpack to carry all of your stuff. I recommend the Osprey Atmos AG 65L backpack. With excellent weight distribution and a lifetime guarantee, you can't go wrong with Osprey.
For more information on what I pack in my backpack for this trip, check out: My Packing List: 60 Travel Essentials.
How to Travel to Ani, Turkey?
From Abroad to Istanbul or Ankara
First and foremost, in order to get to Ani, you are going to have to travel to Turkey by flying into either Istanbul, a popular tourist city, or Ankara, the capital city of Turkey, and from there, go to Kars, the nearest city to Ani.
Thankfully, Istanbul and Ankara are some of the largest hubs in the region, and you should have no trouble finding a flight from your home country to one of the two main airports in the city: Istanbul Airport (IST) and Sabiha Gokcen Airport (SAW) in Istanbul, or Ankara Esenboga Airport in Ankara.
From the US, there are several direct flights you can take to Turkey from major cities in the US like New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Miami, etc., all operated by Turkish Airlines, so you shouldn't have trouble finding a flight from the US to Turkey.
From Europe, you can fly from the most popular European hubs such as London, Paris, or Frankfurt via Turkish Airlines or local carriers like British Airways, Air France, or Lufthansa, which also offer direct flights to Istanbul or Ankara.
From Asia, you can fly directly with Turkish Airlines from several hub cities like Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Tokyo, Jakarta, and Bangkok. You can also go with other Middle Eastern airlines like Qatar, Emirates, and Etihad if you are willing to transit to get a cheaper deal.
To find a cheap flight to Turkey, I would recommend that you use Skyscanner or Expedia to look for the cheapest route and schedule so that you can compare and pick the best one.
Getting From Istanbul to Kars, Turkey
After you get yourself to Istanbul, the next thing you have to do is to get yourself to Kars, the closest large city to Ani, located right on the border between Turkey and Armenia. There are several ways you can travel from Istanbul to Kar,s as follows:
By Plane: The fastest and most recommended way to get from Istanbul to Trabzon is to fly into Kars Airport. There are approximately 4 direct flights connecting the two cities, operated by Turkish Airlines and Pegasus Airlines, from 7 AM to 12:35 PM every day.
The plane journey from Istanbul to Kars will take about 2 hours, and it should cost you around 47 - 100 USD depending on the time you choose to fly. You can look for cheap flights to Kars here.
Once you arrive at the airport, you can then take a public bus to the city center that leaves about 25 minutes after all commercial flights land in Kars. The bus should take you about 20 minutes and cost 3 TRY per person, and it should drop you off in the city center.
You can also take a taxi to the city center 24/7, which will cost around 35 TRY for the trip. If you are flying domestically, buses should be available for you when you land, so I recommend you go that route.
By Bus: You can also take an overnight bus from Istanbul to Kars, but it's going to take you around 19 hours to get there, so it's not ideal. There are many buses per day running from 9 AM to 5:30 PM every day, leaving from most ports in Istanbul, so you should have no trouble finding one.
The bus will cost you around 27 - 31 USD and it will take you all the way to Kars Bus Station where you can then catch a free shuttle bus to the city center. You can book the bus with the link here: Book a Bus from Istanbul to Kars, Turkey
Getting From Ankara to Kars, Turkey
By Plane: There are fewer direct flights from Ankara to Kars. In fact, there is only one at 10:55 AM leaving from Ankara Esenboga Airport, taking about 1.5 hours to reach Kars, and costing around 57 USD. You can book the flight from Ankara to Kars here.
By Bus: There are approximately 6 buses leaving from both Ankara Asti Bus Station between 1:30 PM and 11:30 PM every day, and they will take you to Kars in about 15 hours.
The bus from Ankara to Kars will cost you 20 USD and you can book the bus with the link here: Book a Bus from Ankara to Kars, Turkey.
Getting From Kars to Ani, Turkey
By Bus: The cheapest way to travel from Kars to Ani is via a shuttle bus service by Cihangirzade cafe (Old Antik cafe). During the summer, there are 2 buses leaving in front of Cihangirzade cafe twice per day.
For the summer schedule, the bus leaves at 9 AM and returns from Ani at 11:30 AM in the morning. It leaves again at 1 PM and returns from Ani at 3:30 PM in the afternoon, giving you around 2 hours at Ani.
You can go with the morning bus and come back on the afternoon bus if you wish, but be sure to tell your bus driver first. The journey from Kars to Ani should take about 45 minutes, and for a roundtrip ticket, it will cost you around 100 TRY (3 EUR) per person.
In winter, the bus from Kars to Ani leaves once every day at 9:00 AM, and you will return to Kars by 12:45 PM. Departure time may vary depending on the number of tourists that day.
By Private Taxi: You can also charter a private taxi from Kars to Ani for around 150 - 200 TRY per car. You will have approximately 3 hours at the site before you return to Kars, and you can easily organize it with your accommodation. Just make sure to clarify with the taxi driver how long you will be there before starting the trip.
By Local Tour: It used to be that the only way to get to Kars without having your own vehicle was to go with a local tour operated by Celil, and every hotel in the city would direct you to him whenever you inquired about Ani. However, there are now cheaper options available, so I recommend you go that route instead.
But if you want to take a tour with Celil, you can still do so by organizing it with your hotel, and a tour will come and pick you up at 10:30 AM. The tour should cost about 60 TRY per person, and you will have around 3 hours at Ani before you are returned to Kars.
Celil can also help you out in organizing and planning a border-crossing journey from Turkey to Georgia via Kars, which can be a bit tricky. He will direct you to the right bus station and let you know which bus to take to get to Georgia, but only if you go on a tour with him. You can contact him via his WhatsApp here: +905322263966.
Now that we have all the information we need, it's time to start planning your trip! Here are some resources to help you get going:
Are you planning to travel independently? Be sure to check out my guide on How To Plan A Backpacking Trip here.
Further Reading for Turkey
Turkey is a country that stands in the middle of Europe and Asia. Empires rise and fall on this land, and in order to see Turkey as a whole, you will have to go further than just Istanbul.
Here are a selection of articles and travel guides that you might need to further plan your trip to Turkey:
- First time visiting Turkey? Here are the 15 Most Beautiful Places to Visit in Turkey.
- Looking for a complete itinerary and travel guide for Turkey? One Month Itinerary for Turkey.
- Have a transit flight between IST and SAW airports in Istanbul? Here is a complete guide on How To Get From Sabiha Gokcen To Istanbul Airport And Vice Versa.
- Istanbul is the crown jewel historical city of Turkey and one of the most beautiful cities in the world. There are a lot of things to do, and you are going to need a complete travel guide to see them all. Here are the 11 Best Things to Do in Istanbul, Turkey.
- A lot of Roman influence can be seen throughout Turkey. One of the best places to see this is at Ephesus ruins in Selcuk. Here are the 8 Best Things to Do in Selcuk and Ephesus.
- The southwestern coast of Turkey boasts some of the most stunning beaches, cliffs, and hiking trails in the country, and one of the best places you shouldn't miss is the Butterfly Valley. Here is A Complete Travel Guide to the Butterfly Valley, Turkey.
- Looking for a nice, quiet place by the beach to relax and do yoga for a few days in Turkey? There is no better place to be than Kabak. Here is A Complete Travel Guide to Kabak, Turkey.
- You can't deny it, Cappadocia is one hell of a stunning place to travel to, and there are a ton of things you can do there. From riding a hot air balloon to hiking, here are the 10 Best Things to Do in Cappadocia, Turkey.
- Mt. Nemrut and its massive stone statues of gods is one of the most unique places I have ever seen, but it is not the easiest place to visit. To save you the trouble, here is A Complete Travel Guide to Mt. Nemrut and all the information you need to make the journey as I did.
- If you are planning to travel to East Turkey, Van is one of the cities you must stop by. Known for its awesome breakfast and its location by the largest lake of Turkey, here is A Complete Travel Guide to Van, Turkey.
- Visiting Sumela Monastery is one of the highlights of traveling to Eastern Turkey, but due to its remote location, getting there can be tricky. Here is How to Travel to Sumela Monastery, Turkey and all the information you need to make the trip happen.
- Not convinced by my words? Maybe these photos of Turkey will help! 45 Photos that will inspire you to travel to Turkey.
- Since you are already all the way east, why not cross the border from Turkey to Georgia and make your way to Tbilisi, a vibrant capital city of Georgia? Check out my Georgia Travel Guide to plan your next trip to Georgia.
- For all articles about Turkey, visit the Turkey Travel Guide page.
- Looking for more travel guides for the Middle East? You can find more on my Middle East Travel Guide page.
- For more of my travel guides, visit my Destinations page.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links.
3 Comments
I’m planning to Ani Kars. your article is very helpful for me. Do you have the contact of Celil please?
Hey Jana,
Awesome! Ani is definitely worth going all the way east especially if you are planning to go afterward to Georgia. :)
I'm not sure if he is still active with this email but here it is: celilani [@] hotmail [dot] com.
If not, you can contact the guesthouse or hotel you are staying there and they can manage it for you. I just went to the hotel and ask them the day before. :) Everyone in Kars knows Celil. ;)
I hope this helps!
Hi! Thanks for the info
Just an update on the bus from Kars to Ani: The chingharizade cafe doesn't exist anymore, it's now called mix point, and the bus to Ani only goes once a day at 10:00am