I thought I knew what good hospitality was like... until I arrived in Iran.
"Why go to Iran?" This is a question people often ask when I tell them I am going there. I would have asked the same if it weren't for the word of mouth I have heard over the years about how awesome Iran is, how incredibly friendly the people are, and how off the beaten path the whole country can be.
Iran is one of the most misunderstood countries among travelers, and in this guide, I will tell you all about this country, what it's like to travel around, and hopefully shed light on the side of Iran the media doesn't want you to know.
- Iran Itinerary Map
- Travel Insurance For Iran
- Two Weeks Iran Itinerary
- More Iran Activities
- Things to Know
- Iran Travel Video
- Why Visit Iran?
- What is the Visa Requirement for Iran?
- Entering Iran: What to Expect?
- When to Visit Iran?
- How to Get to Iran?
- How to Get Around Iran?
- What Will Happen If I Run Out of Money?
- How to get access to the Internet in Iran and which VPN to use?
- What to Pack for Iran?
Iran Itinerary Map
Travel Insurance For Iran
If you are looking for travel insurance to go along with your trip to Iran, I would recommend 1stQuest.com, which is one of the few ways now that you can get travel insurance for Iran prior to arriving in the country.
Two Weeks Iran Itinerary
Day 1 - 2: Tehran (2 days)
Tehran is a good place to get yourself accustomed to the culture and hospitality in Iran. First, take a metro and start enjoying random conversations with the locals. First stop: Golestan Palace, one of the most impressive palaces I've seen so far, with multiple sections converted into museum-like rooms that allow you to appreciate the intricate beauty of Iranian decoration.
After you are done with the palace, walk to the Grand Bazaar and hang out with the ever-curious and delightful locals. If you are lucky, you might even get to try their delicious sweets for free. You might also stumble upon a bunch of kids eager to speak English with you, which is another way to smash the misconception of Iran.
Also, drop by the old US embassy and walk around the outside wall of the building. You will see a bunch of anti-American graffiti, something you wouldn't see every day.
Last but not least, go to the Azadi Tower during sunset and watch as the sun goes down and the artificial lights light up the tower.
Where to Stay in Tehran?
Day 3 - 4: Qazvin and Alamut (2 days)
From Tehran, go to the Tehran West Terminal near the Azadi Tower and hop on a bus to Qazvin. In Qazvin, on the first evening, go check out the city center and walk around its modern-designed bazaar.
While you are in the city center, check out the Bist Sotoun and enjoy this architectural wonder in its full glory. Surrounding the building is a beautiful park where you can rest from the heat and enjoy the solitude.
While walking back in the late evening, walk into one of the many flea markets and socialize with the locals. I was invited by one of the shop owners, and he gave me a bunch of fruits for free!
The next day, take a taxi out to Minoudar Square outside the city, and from there, find a driver who will take you through the Alamut Valley for a day. Bargain hard! I paid almost 50 USD just for the taxi to the Alamut Valley and other small attractions.
Hike up to the fortress and enjoy the view of the valleys. This is probably as off the beaten path as it gets since not even the locals come here often.
Where to Stay in Qazvin?
Day 5 - 7: Shiraz (3 days)
After Qazvin, head back to Tehran and take a 14-hour overnight bus to Shiraz. Shiraz is where most of the cool things you have seen about Iran on the Internet are. From the ancient city of Persepolis to the colorful mosaic mosque, they are all here.
First day arriving in Shiraz, go for a walk around the city center and check out the mosques in the area. The mosques I recommend are Nasir al-Mulk Mosque, Vakil Mosque, and Shah Cheragh.
The best time to visit the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque is in the morning, around 9AM - 10AM, when the sunlight shines briefly through the colorful glass windows, creating a beautiful light artwork unlike anything you have seen before. The light is especially stunning in winter when the sun is more aligned with the windows.
The Vakil Mosque contains a whopping 48 monolithic pillars, carved in a spiral, all lined up in the hall. It is the perfect place to get a nice, symmetrical photo of the intricate details of this Persian architectural wonder.
The Shah Cheragh is another stunning mosque, boasting the most elegant interior ever. The most attractive feature of this mosque is its wall-to-wall mosaic made of mirror glass, which covers all sides of the interior. It was truly a sight to behold.
The next day, join up with other people and go on an organized tour or hire a private taxi to check out the Necropolis and Persepolis. You can easily spend a whole day just walking around these areas. The Necropolis is a series of stunning monuments carved on the side of a mountain. This is where the tomb of Xerxes the Great lies.
The Persepolis is the site of the once most powerful Achaemenid capital city in the region. Walking around the ruins is like traveling back in time through the rich history of the ancient Persian empire. The statues and wall carvings are very well-preserved and stunning, as ruins can be. Be sure to explore the monuments in the mountains behind the Persepolis main site if you can handle the heat. The view from up there is quite something.
Where to Stay in Shiraz?
Day 8 - 9: Yazd (2 nights)
A few hours' bus ride from Shiraz will take you to Yazd, another wonderful city located in the middle of the desert. The cool thing about Yazd is that it resembles the Persian town you saw in Aladdin. The houses are built out of dried mud with open rooftops where one can run around and pretend that they are in Aladdin.
First evening, find a nice, quiet rooftop and enjoy the sunset as the sky turns purple and the entire city turns gold.
The next day, go on a full-day tour that will take you through harder-to-get-to places such as the Kharanaq abandoned mud village, the Chak Chak village, and the Water Museum.
The Kharanaq abandoned village is a ruin of crumbling houses where you can walk around and pretend you are Indiana Jones. It's beautiful, stunning, and eerie at the same time. I am not sure why they let us climb up these crumbling pieces of history. The erosion and the damage tourists like us do to this place will wipe it out in no time!
The Chak Chak village is located on a mountain in between the sandy valleys around Yazd. The city itself is not impressive to me, so I decided to climb up a bunch of big rocks further above the village to get a nice viewpoint. It was worth it.
After Chak Chak, the tour should take you to the last destination: the Maybod castle, a giant fortress built entirely from sand and mud. It offers an impressive look at the elaborate and complex way in which they craft their surroundings.
Before the sunset, gather a group of people and hail a taxi to the Tower of Silence. Ascend the tallest mountain on the left and await Mother Nature's captivating light display above this sacred burial site of the Zoroastrians.
On the last day in Yazd, take time to spend a few hours walking around the city, and be sure to check out the Jame mosque and the Cistern.
Where to Stay in Yazd?
Day 10 - 11: Esfahan (2 nights)
Esfahan is the friendliest city I've ever been to. The moment I arrived, I went to Imam Square, where one family invited us for dinner. We joined them and sat with them in the park, answering their never-ending curiosity about where we came from. That's when I fell in love with Esfahan.
First evening, head over to Imam Square and walk around until you are invited by someone to join their dinner and socialize with the wonderful Iranians. I have been to many places in the world, and I have never seen such hospitality before. It has restored my faith in humanity!
At night, walk along the river and drop by the Si o Seh Pol Bridge to catch a group of street performers singing and playing instruments under the bridge. Apparently, in Iran, it is illegal to perform anything in public without permission.
The next day, return to Imam Square and explore the mosques and palaces in the vicinity. Ascend to the Ali Qapu terrace for a breathtaking aerial perspective of the square.
Also, make sure to go inside the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque as it has one of the most intricate and detailed ceilings I have ever seen. See for yourself in the photo above!
Where to Stay in Esfahan?
Day 12 - 14: Kashan (3 nights)
Kashan is the last stop on this trip and for a good reason. From Kashan, you can take a direct bus to the international airport in Tehran without any hassle, making this place the ultimate final stop for Iran.
Spend your first full day visiting the pre-Islamic village of Abyaneh. The village dates back to the 7th century, and although the residents have converted to Islam, the traditions still thrive through their way of life and attire.
As you can see above, their outfits resemble those of the gypsies in Eastern Europe.
Be sure to walk outside of town and head into the hill in front, so that you can reach an abandoned fortress and a viewpoint like this.
After a hot day outside, visit the water temple and cool down a little. Walking around the water temple is quite peaceful and a good break from being outside all day.
The next day, visit the city center of Kashan and explore all the amazing traditional houses that give you a glimpse of Persian traditional residential architecture.
The historic home of the Abbasid, the Sultan Amir Ahmad Bathhouse, Tabatabaei House, and the Borujerdi Historical House are must-visits when you are in the city.
Last but not least, check out the Agha Bozorg Mosque that reminded me of the Taj Mahal for some reason.
Where to Stay in Kashan?
More Iran Activities
Things to Know (Important)
Iran is not the easiest country to travel to, so it is important to know all the prerequisites before arriving. Here are a few things you need to know beforehand:
- Iran is a strict Islamic country, so dressing appropriately is a must. Men must wear long trousers in public, whereas women must wear a headscarf and cover their skin (including legs and arms) in public.
- Bring enough US dollars to cover your entire trip. Due to international sanctions, no foreign ATM, debit, or credit cards will work in Iran.
- It's not cheap to travel in Iran. A dorm room could cost around $15 per night, so make sure you have enough cash and a few hundred more USD tucked away for emergencies.
- Iran is one of the safest countries I have been to, and the locals were exceptionally friendly. Don't get scared when a local invites you for dinner out of the blue. They are genuinely curious about tourists since they rarely see one. However, do exercise caution when dealing with taxi drivers.
Why Visit Iran?
Iran has one of the oldest and richest histories in the world. Many of its attractions date way back to the rise of the Persian Empire over 2500 years ago. With so many years having passed, it is surprising to see how well-kept the ruins are and how well their traditions have endured. You can see their history in every corner of the uniquely decorated and perfectly symmetrical architecture found everywhere. They are truly masters of their craft.
Not to mention the incredibly friendly locals who will leave you surprised at every turn. It is not uncommon to see locals casually striking up a conversation with travelers, inviting them in for dinners or into their homes, or casually giving them free stuff just because they are guests. From my 3 years of traveling, I have never met a group of locals as friendly as those in Iran. No country can compare to the hospitality of the Persians.
What is the Visa Requirement for Iran?
Iran is starting to open up to travelers now. As of now, almost every country in the world can get a Visa on Arrival with no problem, except for Americans, British, Canadians, and a few other countries that are required to be accompanied by a guide at all times. The policy changes often, so do consult this page before you plan anything.
But if you are an American, Canadian, or British, or from a country that cannot easily obtain an Iran visa, you can apply for a visa through agencies like 1stQuest.com for only € 29 and they will manage everything for you. If you decide to go with 1stQuest, you can also use our special promo code, BLY_QST, to get a 5% discount on all services provided by 1stQuest.
Entering Iran: What to Expect?
Entering the country is a long, tiresome process, so be ready to spend at least an hour at the airport getting all the documents checked. Here are the things you need for entry:
- A passport (of course)
- A travel insurance that covers the whole period of your travel. You can get this at the kiosk near the immigration or you can buy insurance online prior to traveling here. It cost me around 17 USD for 20 days of coverage.
- A valid booking of a hostel in Tehran (no need to show the bookings for elsewhere). The officer will call the hostel to check, so be sure you really do have a booking. Don't wing it when it comes to Iran. You can book the hostel through 1stQuest.com and get the booking details before you arrive.
- 85 USD cash to pay for the visa, and you will get 30 days.
Once you land at Tehran International Airport, walk towards the immigration. Right before the immigration, there should be a kiosk where you can buy insurance. Once you get the insurance, turn back towards the wall at the counter and tell the officer you want a visa on arrival. He will give you a form to fill out. Once that is done, pay the officer, and he/she will give you the documents you need to go through immigration.
When to Visit Iran?
The temperature varies a lot between summer and winter in Iran, so timing your visit is important. The highest season is between March and May, as the weather is most ideal. From June to October, the weather can be hot, and from November to February, it is extremely cold.
I went during the shoulder season (around July), and the weather was not too hot in Tehran. However, as I moved southward, the weather became hotter, reaching almost 46°C at noon sometimes. That said, there were fewer tourists during this time, and I didn't mind the dry heat they had there. I only had to avoid doing outdoor activities in the afternoon when it was hottest.
How to Get to Iran?
The cheapest option I found is to fly from Bangkok via a newly opened route by AirAsia. However, I heard rumors that the company might shut the route down if it doesn't gain much traffic. Other than that, AirFrance seems to have several flights from Paris to Tehran, but it won't be cheap!
You can also search for a flight to Iran via Skyscanner or Expedia so you can compare which airline is the cheapest and most convenient for your itinerary.
How to Get Around Iran?
In Tehran, the Metro is the perfect transportation that will take you close to where you want to go without dealing with traffic. Plus, it is also a good way to socialize with the locals.
Taxis are also plentiful and cheap, and they take you right to where you want to go. In smaller cities, a taxi is the only way to get around long distances, and the price is negotiable. I do recommend negotiating with the taxi drivers because they tend to hike up the price if you are a foreigner, but they are not aggressive at all, and they seem to enjoy the process of interaction.
For going from one city to another, buses are the way to go. Iran has a good bus system with comfortable buses. Overnight buses are reasonably priced and comfortable.
Apart from Tehran, where you have to know which bus station you have to go to, depending on the destination, most cities have a main bus station where you can go and buy the ticket. There will be people trying to fill up the bus, so you will have no problem finding one when you arrive.
You can easily book domestic buses in Iran for any destination online here.
If you are limited on time, you can opt for a domestic flight instead, which can be booked online here prior to your trip.
What Will Happen If I Run Out of Money?
Yes! I did run out of money and I was pulling my hair out trying to get money from my foreign bank account into the country. Nothing seems to work. The PayPal service provided by some hostels is not working at the moment, and the fee is almost 50%, which is ridiculous. Black market people are nowhere to be found and my money is dwindling by the day.
As in everything in life, I eventually found a way. A very family-style kind of solution that requires trust and the existence of the embassy of your origin in Iran. Thankfully, there is a Thai embassy in Tehran, and I went there asking for help. Here's the thing: the embassy is there to help you no matter what trouble you find yourself in, and running out of money in Iran is a big trouble, so I sought their help.
Here is how it works: I asked my friend in Thailand to transfer the money to one of the officer's bank accounts in Thailand, and when the officer received the confirmation, she then handed me the money in USD, family-style. That's it! They even gave me a bunch of delicious Thai snacks they bought at home! Thai people are possibly some of the friendliest people in the world, no matter where they are.
So, if you run out of money in Iran, find the embassy and seek their help. They will eventually find a way to assist you. Just make sure you have an embassy you can rely on in Tehran before you get yourself into trouble like I did.
How to get access to the Internet in Iran and which VPN to use?
Wifi is not as widely available yet in Iran, and the speed is average at best. So, if you are looking for a reliable connection, I would suggest you buy the SIM card from Irancell, which is available at the entrance of the Tehran International Airport. For more information about the SIM card, check out: Iran Prepaid SIM Card.
Another thing to consider is censorship. Iran has tight censorship when it comes to the Internet, so you will need a VPN to access websites like Facebook and Twitter. Here's what works for me:
- Android/iPhones: ProtonVPN (Free) - Works 100% of the time.
- PC/Mac: ProtonVPN (Free) - Works 100% of the time.
Daily Budget
This location is moderately priced, with transportation, food, and accommodation averaging around $35 - $55 USD per day per person. It's not exactly cheap, but it's not overly expensive either.
Please keep in mind that these are suggested daily budgets based on my own style of travel, which leans more towards the budget side of things. If you aim to stick to this budget, anticipate sleeping in dormitories, dining out only occasionally, and being comfortable with the cheapest and most convenient modes of transportation, which often involve a considerable amount of walking.
Tips: To stay connected with people at home, be sure that you have a VPN, such as ProtonVPN, installed before traveling. It's FREE, and you can gain access to services that may be blocked in certain countries.
What to Pack for Iran?
As you may already know, I am an advocate of light traveling, and indeed, packing light for a journey like this is a unique art form. Here are some packing tips for your upcoming trip to Iran:
- Walking/Hiking Shoes: With all the walking and possible hiking during your travel, a comfortable pair of shoes is a must. I recommend the Timberland 3-Eye Classic Boat Shoes that are my go-to pair for long strolls and hikes.
- Breathable Shirts: Given the potential for hot weather, pack a few breathable shirts for your outdoor adventures.
- Shorts/Jeans: Anticipate lots of walking during your travels? Be sure to pack some breathable shorts and a pair of Levi's jeans for when the weather cools. For women, leggings are excellent for both hot and cold climates, so consider packing some as well.
- Outer Shell Jacket: An outer shell jacket is great for windy or rainy conditions. I highly recommend the Columbia Watertight Jacket (for women). It's lightweight, breathable, and even comes in a cool orange color.
- Microfiber Towel: A Microfiber towel is the ideal backpacker's towel due to its lightness, quick drying, and compressibility.
- Swim Suits: A swim trunk is a must-pack item if you are planning to visit Iran in the summer, just in case there is a body of water you can jump in.
- Camera: You should also pack a good camera for your trip so that you can capture all the beautiful experiences you might have. I recommend the Sony a7R V camera together with the Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM II lens, which is probably the highest-performance camera and lens combination you can get right now.
- Power Bank: Keep your electronics charged on the go with a 20,000+ mAh Power Bank.
- Water Bottle: The Hydro Flask Trail Water Bottle is a great insulated water bottle to have with you in cities or on hiking trails. It is lightweight and can keep your water cold or warm for more than 12 hours. It's a total game-changer.
- Universal Adapter: You'll need just one universal adapter to plug in your electronics in any country you visit.
- Packing Cubes: Packing Cubes will help you save space in your backpack and keep all your belongings organized.
- Daypack: The Langly Alpha Globetrotter is my go-to everyday camera backpack. It's large enough to carry all my travel gear, and it comes with plenty of slots and pouches. Plus, it's stylish as hell!
- Large Backpack: You will need a large backpack to carry all of your stuff. I recommend the Osprey Atmos AG 65L backpack. With excellent weight distribution and a lifetime guarantee, you can't go wrong with Osprey.
For more information on what I pack in my backpack for this trip, check out: My Packing List: 60 Travel Essentials.
Now that we have all the information we need, it's time to start planning your trip! Here are some resources to help you get going:
Are you planning to travel independently? Be sure to check out my guide on How To Plan A Backpacking Trip here.
Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links.
22 Comments
Hi Pete, I'm going to Iran in April and I must say it.. your pictures are stunning, great editing skills - I love the light they all look so "dreamy" - I think I will use your itinerary as well as it sounds perfert to me!
Thank you for the comment! Iran is truly fascinating! Enjoy your trip there! You will love it!
Thanks for sharing as I will go to Iran soon, and this post is really helpful!
One of the best country i've been to!
Like your guide very much! It’s really helpful. Got one question here. You mentioned there is a direct bus from Kashan to Tehran international airport. Just wondering if you have any details. Thanks.
Thank you Qifang! You can ask the hotel/hostel for the schedule when you are there or try emailing the places you initially booked in Tehran. They should have more info for you. I'm quite certain the buses are still available with that route and it goes direct.
Hei there, wanna ask regarding the travel insurance u purchased at the airport, its a must or if we already have travel insurance that we purchased from our own country is sufficient?
or for Iran its compulsory to buy the insurance provided at the airport? Thank you.
Um.. im unsure about this but it might be worthwhile to have that print and show them at the airport. Otherwise, it'd only cost you ~13 USD extra. :)
Beautiful pictures and commentaries! This is a place that I've always to go but don't think I can (nationality) So jealous! .. Hopefully, some day.
Thank you for the comments. It was truly one of the most memorable place I've been to! I hope when all this political mess is over, you can see the country somday! :)