Oh, how I wish this were an exaggeration, I really do, but it wasn't. On the 8th of July 2014, I embarked on a journey to the land of the rising sun, Japan. One of my main goals was to summit Mt. Fuji and experience the best sunrise in all the lands. What I got was no sunrise, a super typhoon (Neoguri), hail with the speed of a bullet, almost getting blown off a cliff, a numbed face and fingers, and when I arrived at the summit, I didn't even get a chance to see the crater because the wind was too strong to stand up straight and walk.
Nevertheless, I am glad I went for the summit, even when I knew that there was a super typhoon and a good chance that I might die. It was a memorable experience and a great reminder of how weak and defenseless we all are among the mountains.
Today, I will relive my experience climbing Mt. Fuji in Japan with a photo essay. Enjoy.
- Getting Around Japan
- Spend a Night in Tokyo
- Getting to Mt. Fuji 5th Station from Tokyo
- Day 1: Hiking up to 8th Station
- Day 2: Summiting Mt Fuji and Back to 5th Station
- What to Pack for Kawaguchiko, Japan?
- Walk Around Kawaguchiko Town
- Walk Along Lake Kawaguchiko
- Visit Saiko Iyashino-Sato Nenba Traditional Village
- More Kawaguchiko Activities
- Where to Stay in Lake Kawaguchiko?
- Japan Travel Video
- Further Reading for Japan
Getting Around Japan
If you are planning to travel around Japan after visiting Tokyo, I highly recommend you get the JR Pass as you will get the best bang for your buck if you want to travel around Japan on a bullet train. The JR Pass is perfect for those who are planning to travel in Japan for longer than 7 days.
You can get the 7, 14, or 21-day pass, and you will have access to the Shinkansen bullet train nationwide for the duration of your stay at no extra cost. Be sure to order it prior to arriving in Japan as you won't be able to get it while you are in the country. Hit the link below to order one for your trip.
- K's House Mt.Fuji (Budget)
- SAMURISE KURA (Mid-Range) 👍 Top Pick
- Tominoko Hotel (High-End)
- Scenic Spots of Mt Fuji and Lake Kawaguchi 1 Day Bus Tour (10 hours)
- Private Sightseeing to Mount Fuji and Hakone guide photographer (10 hours)
- 1 Day Private Mt Fuji Tour (Charter) - English Speaking Driver (10 hours)
Spend a Night in Tokyo
As I arrived at Haneda International Airport at 11 PM on July 8th, 2014, I quickly grabbed a bus and headed to Shinjuku Bus Station where the capsule hotel I booked was located.
For the first time in my travels, I had never felt this safe before. I was walking at 1 AM, asking strangers for directions with ease. In no time, I was able to find the hotel, checked in, and went straight to bed.
Getting to Mt. Fuji 5th Station from Tokyo
Since the hotel is right by the Shinjuku bus station (exact location), I was able to catch an early bus at 8:45 AM to the Subaru 5th Station. About an hour and a half in, I was greeted with the first sight of Mt. Fuji from afar.
Day 1: Hiking up to 8th Station
I left everything except the essentials at a locker in the 5th station before I headed out at 11:30 AM. Such a nice day to climb, isn't it? In my defense for climbing Mt Fuji during a typhoon, it doesn't look like the typhoon would hit Mt. Fuji at all.
The walk started out simply with a beautiful landscape and vegetation.
After an easy walk, the trail became steeper and steeper, and in no time, it was like this. I had to climb this with the support of my two hands.
As I approached the 7th station, I was met with a few supply stops. They did have a lot stocked up there, but the price was almost twice the price at the fifth station. A small bottle of water cost around 250 Y (2.5 USD).
Arrived at the 7th station, but unfortunately, the mountain hut I booked is at the 8th station, which is still 2 more hours away.
There were shrines scattered along the trail to add a little spice to the barren-like landscape that is Mt. Fuji.
I was finally at the same level as the snowcap (what was left of it anyway) on Mt. Fuji.
I could feel the summit calling to me!
By 4:30 PM, I arrived at the Fujisan mountain hut near the 8th station. Since I had to wake up at 2:00 AM for the sunrise, I ate dinner and went straight to bed. I was unable to sleep until almost 8 PM because of people walking in and out and probably due to the altitude. I was breathing heavily all night. It was part of the experience, though, and I was expecting it to be more crowded than what I experienced.
And as I lay there with hundreds of people, the super typhoon crept up on us at night and picked up speed around 11 PM. I knew in my mind that tomorrow would be a big problem for us, but I hoped it would just be mountain weather in the evening.
Day 2: Summiting Mt Fuji and Back to 5th Station
As the staff woke me up at 2 AM, I, a British couple, and Swedish pals (Johan and Johan) whom I had met at dinner, were the only ones who hadn't given up on our plan to reach the summit. Several hundred people had already given up and gone back to bed. The staff was trying their best to convince us not to go because they feared we might die up there. It was understandable, as the wind raged on, trembling the windows and doors of the mountain hut. We weren't going to see the sunrise anyway, with the massive fog out there. We were faced with a life-threatening decision: whether to risk death and go to the summit or accept defeat and head down.
After talking with each other, the British couple, and the two Johans, we decided that we were too close to give up. We might as well try it, and if we couldn't go any longer, we could always turn back. And so we went!
The wind was raging like crazy as we went higher and higher. Instead of rain, hail started to hit our faces like a bullet. There were few to no shelters along the way, so we literally had to crawl up because the wind would just knock us off our feet if we stood straight.
From the map, there were supposed to be 2 stops where we could find shelters (The 9th station and the summit), but it was all a lie. The 9th station was simply an abandoned lodge submerged under a landslide, while at the summit, the mountain hut was completely closed.
Many people we saw along the way abandoned at the 9th station. To tell you the truth, I was also going to accept defeat when I saw the 9th station, but as I looked up, I saw the sign saying that I was only 800m away from the summit. 800! So yes, we went on and on.
Our dreams of grabbing a hot coffee at the summit were shattered when we saw no signs of living things. As we reached the top, we also ran out of shelters from the wind since there were no side mountains blocking it from hitting us full force. At that point, I was unable to blink because everything on my face was numb, so the water from melted hail kept getting into my eyes.
We attempted to find the crater, but we were literally knocked back by the wind and unable to walk any further. We decided that we had already accomplished what we could, so we got the hell out of there and went down as fast as we could.
Since my goal was to NOT get hyperthermia, I was literally running and sliding down. This turned out to be a bad idea, especially with the volcanic ashes and the wind blowing at least 50 mph. There were 5 times I almost fell off a cliff because I was running down and the wind hit directly behind my back with an unstoppable force. The weight of me running down, my backpack, and the force of the typhoon pushed me, and it took me at least 5 unintended steps to bury my feet in the ground and prevent me from being pushed down the cliff. I was one step away from dying a tragic death!
As I was descending as fast as I could, the hail turned into raindrops, and the wind became more bearable. It took me only 3 hours to reach the Subaru 5th station from the summit. I retrieved all my belongings from the locker and hurriedly left Mt. Fuji as the wind continued to rage.
What to Pack for Kawaguchiko, Japan?
As you may already know, I am an advocate of light traveling, and indeed, packing light for a journey like this is a unique art form. Here are some packing tips for your upcoming trip to Kawaguchiko, Japan:
- Walking/Hiking Shoes: With all the walking and possible hiking during your travel, a comfortable pair of shoes is a must. I recommend the Timberland 3-Eye Classic Boat Shoes that are my go-to pair for long strolls and hikes.
- Breathable Shirts: Given the potential for hot weather, pack a few breathable shirts for your outdoor adventures.
- Shorts/Jeans: Anticipate lots of walking during your travels? Be sure to pack some breathable shorts and a pair of Levi's jeans for when the weather cools. For women, leggings are excellent for both hot and cold climates, so consider packing some as well.
- Outer Shell Jacket: An outer shell jacket is great for windy or rainy conditions. I highly recommend the Columbia Watertight Jacket (for women). It's lightweight, breathable, and even comes in a cool orange color.
- Microfiber Towel: A Microfiber towel is the ideal backpacker's towel due to its lightness, quick drying, and compressibility.
- Swim Suits: A swim trunk is a must-pack item if you are planning to visit Kawaguchiko, Japan in the summer, just in case there is a body of water you can jump in.
- Camera: You should also pack a good camera for your trip so that you can capture all the beautiful experiences you might have. I recommend the Sony a7R V camera together with the Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM II lens, which is probably the highest-performance camera and lens combination you can get right now.
- Power Bank: Keep your electronics charged on the go with a 20,000+ mAh Power Bank.
- Water Bottle: The Hydro Flask Trail Water Bottle is a great insulated water bottle to have with you in cities or on hiking trails. It is lightweight and can keep your water cold or warm for more than 12 hours. It's a total game-changer.
- Universal Adapter: You'll need just one universal adapter to plug in your electronics in any country you visit.
- Packing Cubes: Packing Cubes will help you save space in your backpack and keep all your belongings organized.
- Daypack: The Langly Alpha Globetrotter is my go-to everyday camera backpack. It's large enough to carry all my travel gear, and it comes with plenty of slots and pouches. Plus, it's stylish as hell!
- Large Backpack: You will need a large backpack to carry all of your stuff. I recommend the Osprey Atmos AG 65L backpack. With excellent weight distribution and a lifetime guarantee, you can't go wrong with Osprey.
For more information on what I pack in my backpack for this trip, check out: My Packing List: 60 Travel Essentials.
Walk Around Kawaguchiko Town
Yay! I survived! And this is how I celebrated. Dancing in the rain. :)
I walked around this quiet town for a bit in the rain and noticed this well-designed sewer cover. As it turned out, every town in Japan has its own design for the sewer cover that shows what the town is known for. It's these little details that made me fall in love with Japan so much!
Denn's Inn also allows you to rent a bike to cycle around the lake, but since I was heading to Tokyo at the end of the day, I decided to walk around instead.
The day after the storm. I can't imagine what it would look like from here, with the typhoon raging at the summit.
I was still stunned by the fact that I climbed Mt. Fuji during a super typhoon and was able to walk away with no harm. It was purely because of my luck.
Walk Along Lake Kawaguchiko
Katrin and I decided to walk along the lake together and count how many photos we could take of Mt. Fuji. As it turned out, there were a lot.
Visit Saiko Iyashino-Sato Nenba Traditional Village
We split here as Katrin went for a bike ride around the lake, and I was following the footsteps of a photographer I admired (Trey Ratcliff) to Saiko Iyashino-Sato Nenba, an ancient village located near Lake Saiko.
The village was surrounded by mountains and lakes. Very isolated.
One thing I learned was that in Japan, when the temperature is at 30+ degrees Celsius, resisting an ice cream cone is futile.
The Japanese people really do know how to decorate their gardens.
A beautiful shrine amidst the forest.
Being goofy in front of a camera is my thing, man. :)
This village offers a great viewpoint of Mt. Fuji but without the tourists.
This was the exact spot Trey took when he was here. It took me a while to find where this was, but it was all worth it. The place has a great composition of the village and the bell that puts Mt Fuji into perspective.
I highly recommend you to visit this village. There are several traditional activities you can participate in, such as taking a photo of yourself in a Kimono with Mt Fuji as scenery or trying traditional food. Since I had limited time, I was not able to participate in any of that, so I took the retro bus back to the bus station and headed back to Tokyo.
And that is the end of the first part of the Solo Traveler's Journal #10 about Japan. Next up, we will explore the quirky culture of Japan in the vibrant capital city of Tokyo, where we will go to places where the cool kids hang out. Stay tuned.
More Kawaguchiko Activities
If you are looking for more activities to do here, be sure to check out some of the available tours and day trips:
Where to Stay in Lake Kawaguchiko?
Now that we have all the information we need, it's time to start planning your trip! Here are some resources to help you get going:
Are you planning to travel independently? Be sure to check out my guide on How To Plan A Backpacking Trip here.
Further Reading for Japan
Looking for more information for your trip to Japan? Here are a collection of articles about Japan that you might find useful:
- Looking for a comprehensive list of things you shouldn't miss when traveling in Japan? Check out: 16 Best Things to Do in Japan.
- Want to climb Mount Fuji? Here is a complete guide on how to and not to climb Mount Fuji for a real-life experience.
- Looking for a complete travel guide to Tokyo? Check out: 14 Best Things To Do In Tokyo.
- For a complete itinerary of Tokyo, check out: 3 Days Backpacking Tokyo Itinerary.
- Planning to visit Nikko soon? From hiking to best temples to visit, here are the 10 Best Things To Do In Nikko.
- Another awesome place to visit in Japan for a great view of Mt. Fuji is Hakone. Here are the 9 Best Things to Do in Hakone.
- A day trip to Hakone from Tokyo is possible, but you need to be smart with your time. Here is a complete One Day Hakone Itinerary From Tokyo.
- Kyoto, the old capital city of Japan, is a one-of-a-kind city that you should not miss. Here are the 16 Best Things To Do In Kyoto.
- For a complete itinerary of Kyoto and Osaka, check out: 3 Days Backpacking Kyoto-Osaka Itinerary.
- There are more to Hiroshima than the war memorial. Here are the 13 Best Things to Do in Hiroshima.
- Want to go off the beaten path in Japan? What about exploring Kyushu island? Here is a 3-day road trip itinerary for Kumamoto and Aso.
- Not convinced by my words about Japan? Watch this: Just Japan Travel Video.
- Wondering where to go after Japan? How about hopping over to China or visiting the islands of Taiwan or Hong Kong?
- For all articles about Japan, visit the Japan Travel Guide page.
- Looking to travel to East Asia? Check out all my articles about East Asia here: East Asia Travel Guide page.
- You can see all my Asia-related articles here: Asia Travel Guide page.
- For more of my travel guides like this, visit my Destinations page.
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5 Comments
I couldn't believe your story because I had a similar experience climbing Fuji when visiting a friend in Japan. We had both never climbed any mountains before and were completely uninformed and unprepared for climbing. I was wearing jeans and inadequately clothed. We both had a bottle of wine in our backpacks which we thought we would celebrate with at the summit. I even packed a dress that I was going to change into at the summit and take a photo (yes...dumb). When we got there, we were a bit alarmed by the suggestion that we should buy supplementary oxygen, but we decided against it. We were also alarmed by the people who were dressed in "gear" which we didn't have and also alarmed to see that some climbers had guides and organized climbing groups. We didn't think to get a guide and decided just to go up ourselves. I was not expecting the thin air to effect me so much, but after Hut 9 I began to really suffer. Four steps...stop...breathe. etc. We saw two groups of climbers descend after Hut 9 and I asked them what was happening. They said their guides made the executive decisions to abort due to gale force winds above us. It was very windy already, but I had no idea it would get so much worse. We had summit fever (so close to the top!) so we decided to continue despite others turning back. I almost got blown off the mountain near the summit. I remember at one point clinging to a rockface like a starfish for 5 minutes as I waited for the winds to die down so that I could inch my way to a safer substrate. I was really fearful and thought "I'm going to die in a foreign country." In the end we made it up to the summit slowly. The top was such a relief and then suddenly the winds died down and we were able to descend in peace! When we both got back to the bottom we were exhausted. As we repacked our bags...guess what we found....two unopened bottles of wine!
Wow beautiful photos and it is great that you survived the typhoon! After reading this post I am thinking of doing an overnight at Fuji ^_^
You should! It is certainly possible. From the 835 station to the summit, it doesn't take that long given there's no super typhoon in between you and the summit haha.
Fantastic photos and a "page turning" post!!! But no local authorities warnings or advices about the typhoon whatsoever?
There was an approximate arrival time, but the day I began was all sunny and clear and I thought the next day would be the same before the typhoon set in. Unfortunately, I was wrong. Haha.