A Complete Self-Drive Safari Guide to Etosha National Park - One-Day Itinerary, Water holes locations, tips, and more

A Complete Self-Drive Safari Guide to Etosha National Park

One-Day Itinerary, Water holes locations, tips, and more
A photo of Pete R.
By Pete R.,
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Have you ever dreamed of driving a 4x4 through the African savannah, tracking down elusive animals, and observing them from a distance? Well, you can make that dream come true at Etosha National Park. It’s one of the few accessible safari destinations in Africa where you can drive yourself and learn to navigate the savannah like a pro.

I’ve been on several safari trips in Africa, but they were usually accompanied by local guides. This was the first time I ever did a self-drive safari, so you can bet I was extremely excited about it.

After spending 2 weeks in Namibia and 2 days driving around Etosha, I decided to write a travel guide to help you prepare for your first self-drive safari here. From tips and tricks to make your drive smoother, to ways to spot animals and what type of wildlife you can encounter, and more, so without further ado, here's a complete travel guide to Etosha National Park!

2 Weeks in Namibia: A Road Trip Itinerary2 Weeks in Namibia: A Road Trip Itinerary

Etosha Points of Interest Map

Etosha Points of Interest Map

Etosha National Park: One Day Itinerary

A family of elephant walking in Etosha

The best times to see wildlife are early in the morning at sunrise and in the evening before sunset, so I highly recommend waking up early and heading straight to the park to catch the early risers, coming back to the lodge for lunch and relaxing during the afternoon, and getting out again in the late afternoon.

An old elephant in Etosha

Be sure to ask your accommodation about the park's opening hours the day before, as they can vary depending on the season. Typically, the park opens at sunrise and closes at sunset. Also, make sure to fill up your gas tank at this gas station before entering, as there are few gas stations inside and none of them accept credit cards. They often run out of petrol as well, so it's best to be prepared. The park is massive, and we’ll be driving all day, covering around 300-400 km, so you’ll definitely need that fuel!

Okaukuejo entrance in Etosha

Once you’re stocked up, you'll need to go through a security check at the first gate, which can take some time. Afterward, you’ll drive to Okaukuejo to pay for your ticket at the office there before you can begin your safari. Expect some queues here as well, so it’s best to get there early to avoid the crowd.

Planning to visit soon?
🛌 Booking hotels: Booking.com, Agoda, and Hostelworld.
  1. Etosha Village Campsite (Budget)
  2. Etosha Safari Camping2Go (Mid-Range) 👍 Top Pick
  3. Gondwana Etosha Safari Lodge (High-End)
🏄 Booking tours: Viator, GetYourGuide, and Klook.
  1. ETOSHA PARK SAFARI with local guides in 9-seater 4x4s (10 hours)
  2. 7 Day Northern Namibia and Skeleton Coast Camping Safari (7 Days)
  3. 12 Day Classic Namibia Camping Safari (12 days)
🚘 Renting a car: Discover Cars.
🏥 Travel Insurance: Heymondo.

dusty roads in Etosha

Once you’ve gotten your ticket, you can begin your self-drive safari. This was my first time doing a self-drive safari, and it was pretty exciting! However, one of the toughest parts was dealing with the roads in Etosha, which I considered to be the worst in the country. The gravel roads are so dusty and full of corrugations, which is so exhausting to drive on, especially for an entire day, so be sure you are prepared!

A family of black rhinos in Etosha

Aside from the road conditions, there are some truly amazing animals in Etosha. We saw a ton of Black Rhinos, which are pretty rare to find in other parts of Africa. I remember seeing just one from afar in Tanzania, but here, you can spot a bunch of them. I believe I saw nearly 10 rhinos in a single day – it was incredible!

A lioness watching the sun in Etosha

We also saw a bunch of elephants, kudus, wildebeests, and tons of Springboks, among many other animals – I almost lost count! I was lucky enough to spot a lioness just before sunset, relaxing at a watering hole not far from Okaukuejo. It was quite a sight to behold.

Animals at watering hole in Etosha

For this one-day itinerary, I highly recommend you drive to these 5 water holes during the first half of the morning, Gemsbokvlakte, Charitsaub, Halali, Goas 1 Wasserloch, and Groot Okevi Fountain with toilet breaks at Halali Camp and Namutoni Camp.

Springboks under a tree in Etosha

You can go out of the park in the afternoon to find lunch or rest up as it can get pretty hot during this time, and you won't see many animals anyway. Then you can come back in the late afternoon to spot more animals before closing time.

A museum at Namutoni Camp

If you do not want to get out of the park and don't mind killing some time inside, you can have lunch at restaurants in Namutoni Camp, Halali, or you can grab some snacks at the convenient store/post office in Okaukuejo Camp.

A rhino in Etosha at sunset

Wait until 4 PM before either revisiting the same waterholes to spot more animals, or head west to visit Okondeka, Ozonjuitji m'Bari, and Sonderkop. However, be mindful of the distance so you have enough time to return to the main entrance before closing time.

When to Visit Etosha National Park?

A dust devil at Etosha

The best time to visit Etosha National Park is during the dry winter months, from May to October. During these months, you will often find wildlife congregating around waterholes, which makes it easier to see animals such as elephants, rhinos, and lions. The weather is generally mild, with daytime temperatures ranging from 21°C to 29°C (70°F to 85°F), though mornings and evenings can be chilly, especially between June and August.

I visited in October, and although it was approaching summer with temperatures rising throughout the day, we saw plenty of antelopes, from wildebeests to kudus, along with a few black rhinos, a lioness, and more. Since midday in October was quite hot, we didn't see much activity during that time, as most animals retreated to the shade to rest. The best sightings were in the morning and evening, so keep that in mind when you plan your trip here.

The wet season, from November to April, on the other hand, will bring lush landscapes and abundant birdlife, including migratory species. However, wildlife tends to disperse due to the availability of water throughout the park, making animal sightings less predictable. Also, temperatures can soar above 32°C (90°F), and the increased presence of mosquitoes is common during this time, so it might not be ideal.

If you want to see big animals, I'd stick to the recommended period. Keep in mind that from July to November, it is considered peak season and attracts quite a number of tourists. Therefore, if you wish to stay inside the national parks, I highly recommend you book your accommodation way in advance.

How to Get to Etosha National Park?

A rhino cross the road in Etosha

To get to Etosha, you will first have to make your way to Windhoek, the capital city of Namibia. You can either choose Lufthansa, which offers flights to Windhoek with transits through Frankfurt from almost anywhere in the world, or fly to South Africa, Cape Town or Johannesburg, via major airlines like Emirates or Qatar, and then catch a budget-friendly Airlink flight to Windhoek. You can find plenty of flight options on platforms like Skyscanner or Expedia.

Since this is a self-drive safari guide, once you get to Windhoek, you will have to rent a car and drive to Etosha National Park. There are many car rental companies to choose from in Namibia, but after extensive research, I went with Namibia2Go, and I can wholeheartedly recommend them. I rented a 4x4 Toyota Fortuner, which was in perfect condition when I received it and performed exceptionally well throughout the trip. Despite encountering some terrible roads in Etosha National Park, the car handled everything like a champ!

After picking up your car, it takes about four hours to drive to Etosha National Park. Depending on your arrival time, you may need to stay overnight in Windhoek or hit the ground running by driving straight to Etosha. If you're visiting Etosha as part of a larger trip, you can choose to explore it either at the beginning or the end of your journey, as it's relatively close to the capital.

I chose to visit Etosha at the end, traveling around the country from Fish River Canyon, along the western coast through Damaraland, and finally to Etosha before driving back to Windhoek to catch my flight. You can check out my full Namibia itinerary here.

How to Get around Namibia?

An ostrich on the road in Etosha

By Car: Since this is a self-drive safari guide, you'll need to rent a car to explore Etosha National Park. I chose Namibia2Go and rented a 4x4 Toyota Fortuner, which was in perfect condition upon pickup and performed exceptionally well in the park.

Having a reliable 4x4 is essential here, as Etosha has some of the worst roads in the country. Many are in terrible condition, full of corrugations, and the dust can get so thick that it almost feels like it's snowing from all the dust kicked up by passing cars. Really!

My flat tire in Namibia

If you decide to rent a car, make sure to learn how to change a tire before embarking on this trip. The rough roads can be quite punishing, and there's a good chance you'll need to change a tire at some point, especially if you're planning a longer journey.

11 Things to Know Before Driving in Namibia11 Things to Know Before Driving in Namibia

Safari cars in Etosha

By Tour: If you prefer not to drive yourself, you can join a daily organized tour that picks you up from your accommodation in Etosha and takes you around the national park for the day.

With this option, you'll benefit from having an experienced guide who is skilled at tracking animals and knows the park inside and out. This allows you to sit back and fully enjoy the wildlife without the need to navigate and spot animals simultaneously. Trust me, it is extremely exhausting to do so, especially with the road conditions in Etosha National Park.

That said, you'll first need to get from Windhoek to Etosha. You can do this by renting a car and driving yourself, as I illustrated in the previous section, or you can opt for a private transfer, which picks you up directly from the airport and takes you to your lodge in Etosha. Very convenient!

If you'd like to see more than just Etosha but prefer not to drive yourself, you can opt for a multi-day tour. These tours take you to Etosha National Park as well as other stunning destinations in Namibia, such as Sossusvlei and Swakopmund, all in one trip. Options range from 6-day to 12-day itineraries, depending on how much time you have. I'd say the longer you can spend here, the better!

How Many Days for Etosha National Park?

An elephant up close at Etosha

I personally think one full day (2 nights) is more than enough to see Etosha National Park unless you are really unlucky at seeing animals. We spent 2 nights in Etosha and saw a lioness, plenty of elephants, and a surprising number of black rhinos, as well as all kinds of antelopes like Kudus, springboks, impalas, zebras, wildebeests, and more.

We didn’t see any leopards or cheetahs, but that’s not uncommon in Etosha, no matter how long you stay. These animals can be quite elusive, especially leopards. I have been on these safari trips 4 times already and only managed to see one leopard in Kenya, so consider yourself lucky if you ever see one in the wild.

What Animals will I see in Etosha National Park?

Oryxes at Etosha

There are plenty of antelopes inside Etosha National Park. You’ll often see large herds of wildebeests and zebras traveling together, as well as a number of kudus, which are among the largest antelopes. You’ll also come across many oryx, springboks, and impalas throughout the park.

A lioness at Etosha

In Etosha, you can spot four of the Big Five: lions, African elephants, rhinos, and leopards. Unfortunately, water buffaloes are not found here. I was lucky enough to see three of them in one day, a lioness, several families of elephants, and, to my surprise, about seven different black rhinos, which are considered rare in other parts of Africa.

An old elephant walking in Etosha

We also didn’t see any leopards or cheetahs, but that’s not uncommon since these animals can be quite elusive, especially leopards. I've been on safari trips four times across Africa and only managed to spot one leopard in Kenya, so consider yourself lucky if you ever see one in the wild.

Badgers in Etosha

I also saw several smaller mammals like hyenas, jackals, meerkats, badgers, and several colorful birds, so be sure to keep an eye out for them while you drive around Etosha.

How to see animals in Etosha National Park?

Giraffes at watering holes in Etosha

The key to seeing animals on a safari is to wait for them at watering holes and hope for the best. There are several watering holes scattered across the park, so you can drive there and wait for the animals one by one. Here are all the watering holes I drove to in order from closest to the entrance to the furthest (east):

The above watering holes should be enough for the day, but if you have time to spare, you can also go west from Okakuejo Camp. These are all the main watering holes west from the camp:

There are many more along the way, so if you find a spot where animals are congregating, don’t hesitate to let us know in the comments below.

Etosha National Park's Entrance Ticket and Opening Hours

Etosha savannah

Etosha National Park's entrance fees and opening hours vary based on your nationality and the time of year you plan to visit Etosha. Here's a general overview:

  • International Visitors: 150 NAD per adult per day
  • SADC Residents: 100 NAD per adult per day
  • Namibian Citizens: 50 NAD per adult per day.
  • Children Under 16: Free entry.

If you are planning to self-drive around Etosha, you'll also need to pay a vehicle fee of 50 NAD per day for cars with 10 seats or fewer. So, if you're traveling alone, expect to pay around 200 NAD per day for entry to Etosha National Park, including both the entrance ticket and the vehicle fee.

As for the opening hours, the park typically operates from sunrise to sunset, and the exact times vary depending on the month you're visiting. It's best to check with your accommodation the day before your trip to confirm the exact opening and closing times. When I was there, it was open from 6:15 AM to 7:00 PM.

Be sure to exit the park before closing time, meaning you need to leave through the first gate. Also, remember the 60 km/h speed limit as you leave, unless, of course, you want to get scolded by the ranger like I did when we exited the park at 7:15 PM.

What are some tips and tricks for a self-drive safari in Etosha National Park?

A person driving a car in Etosha

  • Fill up your gas tank before entering: Make sure to fill up your gas tank at this gas station before entering, as there are few gas stations inside, and none of them accept credit cards. They often run out of petrol as well, so it's best to be prepared. The park is massive, and we’ll be driving all day, covering around 300-400 km, so you’ll definitely need that fuel!
  • Stick to the Speed Limit: The park has a speed limit of 60 km/h, and the roads can be bumpy, so always drive carefully. The rough roads will make sure you keep your speed in check anyway!
  • Early Starts and Late Finishes: Animals are most active early in the morning and late in the afternoon. Plan your day so you can be out during these times to maximize your chances of seeing animals. My only sighting of a lion was at sunset, just before closing time!
  • Keep Your Distance: Always maintain a safe distance from animals, especially predators like lions and leopards. You’re here to observe, not disturb.
  • Don’t Rush: Take your time and enjoy the experience. Slow down and scan the area – some animals may be hidden in the bush or near waterholes. You’ll know when someone finds an animal because there will be several cars parked in a random spot in the park.
  • Carry Water and Snacks: It can get really hot, especially during midday, so make sure to carry plenty of water and snacks to stay hydrated and energized. Restaurants are few and far between, mostly at rest camps, and they can be quite expensive. It's best to prepare something for lunch or leave the park at noon to eat. The animals won’t be as active in the afternoon anyway.
  • Have a Good Map or GPS: While the park is easy to navigate, it’s still a good idea to have a map or GPS on hand. Some areas of the park may not have a strong mobile signal, so don’t rely solely on your phone. I used Google Maps, and it worked fine in offline mode, so be sure to download th
  • Respect Park Rules: Follow all the park's rules, especially regarding speed limits, wildlife interactions, and park hours. I got scolded by the ranger because I was 15 minutes late exiting the park, so don’t be like me! Also, don't get out of the car in the national park unless you are at rest camps and stick to the roads and do not go off-road, no matter what. You are in a national park, after all.
  • Bring Binoculars and a Dedicated Camera: You’ll want to catch all the details, so binoculars are great for spotting animals from afar. If you’re a photographer, bring the longest telephoto lens you have, no matter how heavy it is. You’ll regret it if you get here and realize you can’t zoom in far enough. Don’t rely on your phone camera either, or you’ll end up disappointed, you won’t be able to see much. Trust me, the zoom won’t be enough, and you’ll regret not bringing a proper camera.
  • Take Care of Your Vehicle: The park's rough roads can be tough on your car, so make sure your vehicle is in good condition. Carry a spare tire and tools, just in case.
  • Watch the Weather: Conditions can change quickly, and rain can make roads slippery. Keep an eye on the weather forecast, especially during the rainy season.

How much does it cost to visit Etosha National Park?

For a one-day itinerary, considering you rent a car with a tent and camp, we can calculate approximately how much money you will be spending here (minimum) as follows:

🛌 Lodging (Camping): 35 USD/Day
🥘 Food: 40 USD/Day
🚗 Transport: 144.69 USD/Day
🧗 Activities: 11 USD/Day
💰 Daily Budget: 230 USD/day

Keep in mind that this is the minimum daily budget, so if you prefer to stay in lodges or extend your stay, you can expect to spend more on everything, including the entrance fee to the national park. The park charges per day, from opening to closing time, rather than for a full 24-hour period, unless you stay inside the park.

Is it Safe to Visit Etosha National Park?

You might be surprised to learn that Namibia is considered to be the safest country in Africa, and that's also the case for Etosha. Getting inside the park, you will have to go through a security check which will inspect for plastic bags, drones, etc., so don't bring those in.

One thing to keep in mind about Etosha is that you're in a protected area, and hitting an animal with your car inside the park can get you into big trouble. The speed limit is 60 km/h, so be sure to stick to it. If you don't, the condition of the roads, with all the corrugation, will make sure that you do 😂.

Also, don't get out of the car in the national park unless you are at rest camps, and stick to the roads. Do not go off-road, no matter what, for your own safety. You are in a national park full of untamed wildlife after all!

Which tourist SIM card is best for Namibia?

There is no eSIM available in Namibia at the moment of writing, and since the country is sparsely populated with limited cell phone coverage, especially in Etosha, your best option is to get a physical SIM card from the MTC kiosk in the exit terminal at Windhoek airport. It can take quite some time as there are often long lines of tourists getting SIM cards, but you are going to need it for the navigation.

You can choose their Aweh package, either the 5 GB or 18 GB option, which also includes 100 to 300 minutes of calls and costs 100 NAD (6 USD) and 250 NAD (15.5 USD), respectively. I opted for the 18 GB package and had plenty of data left at the end. You don't really need calls or SMS, but in case anything happens on the road, it's good to have them available so you can call your car rental company or emergency numbers, and they’ll help get you out of trouble in no time.

Once you're deep inside the park, you won’t have any connection, but navigating is relatively easy without an app. You can also rely on the rest camps scattered around the park, as they often have phone signals where you can check your navigation.

What to Pack for Etosha National Park?

As you may already know, I am an advocate of light traveling, and indeed, packing light for a journey like this is a unique art form. Here are some packing tips for your upcoming trip to Etosha National Park, Namibia:

  • Walking/Hiking Shoes: With all the walking and possible hiking during your travel, a comfortable pair of shoes is a must. I recommend the Timberland 3-Eye Classic Boat Shoes that are my go-to pair for long strolls and hikes.
  • Breathable Shirts: Given the potential for hot weather, pack a few breathable shirts for your outdoor adventures.
  • Shorts/Jeans: Anticipate lots of walking during your travels? Be sure to pack some breathable shorts and a pair of Levi's jeans for when the weather cools. For women, leggings are excellent for both hot and cold climates, so consider packing some as well.
  • Outer Shell Jacket: An outer shell jacket is great for windy or rainy conditions. I highly recommend the Columbia Watertight Jacket (for women). It's lightweight, breathable, and even comes in a cool orange color.
  • Microfiber Towel: A Microfiber towel is the ideal backpacker's towel due to its lightness, quick drying, and compressibility.
  • Swim Suits: A swim trunk is a must-pack item if you are planning to visit Etosha National Park, Namibia in the summer, just in case there is a body of water you can jump in.
  • Camera: You should also pack a good camera for your trip so that you can capture all the beautiful experiences you might have. I recommend the Sony a7R V camera together with the Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM II lens, which is probably the highest-performance camera and lens combination you can get right now.
  • Power Bank: Keep your electronics charged on the go with a 20,000+ mAh Power Bank.
  • Water Bottle: The Hydro Flask Trail Water Bottle is a great insulated water bottle to have with you in cities or on hiking trails. It is lightweight and can keep your water cold or warm for more than 12 hours. It's a total game-changer.
  • Universal Adapter: You'll need just one universal adapter to plug in your electronics in any country you visit.
  • Packing Cubes: Packing Cubes will help you save space in your backpack and keep all your belongings organized.
  • Daypack: The Langly Alpha Globetrotter is my go-to everyday camera backpack. It's large enough to carry all my travel gear, and it comes with plenty of slots and pouches. Plus, it's stylish as hell!
  • Large Backpack: You will need a large backpack to carry all of your stuff. I recommend the Osprey Atmos AG 65L backpack. With excellent weight distribution and a lifetime guarantee, you can't go wrong with Osprey.

For more information on what I pack in my backpack for this trip, check out: My Packing List: 60 Travel Essentials.

Further Reading for Namibia

If you are looking for more articles about Namibia, here are a few articles that might help you plan your trip:

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links.

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