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Sumatra

Being the largest island in Indonesia and the 6th largest island in the world, Sumatra is home to some of the wildest travel experiences you can have. From trekking the jungle of Bukit Lawang to seeing wild orangutans to spending 5 days living with the Mentawai tribe, you can't find any place quite as wild and adventurous as Sumatra.
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When to Visit Sumatra?

Sunrise in Mentawai

The best time to visit Sumatra is during the dry season from June to August, which is the peak season for this region. Thankfully, Sumatra doesn't get as many tourists, so the crowd should not be a problem.

The dry season is also great because it will allow you to enjoy outdoor activities more, and there are a ton of outdoor activities to be done in Sumatra, from trekking the jungle to find orangutans to hiking an active volcano in Berastagi.

That said, since Sumatra is an island, the weather can be unpredictable at times with rain showering at random intervals, so be sure to pack a rain jacket even if you are visiting during the dry season.

It can also get pretty hot and humid, just like the rest of Indonesia, so be sure to pack light clothing. You might still need a jacket for the highlands though, so do not forget to pack that too.

I backpacked through Sumatra for a month in June, and the weather was just perfect. It did rain a couple of days, but it usually didn't last very long, and rarely ever rained on me when I was jungle trekking in places like Bukit Lawang and Mentawai, for which I am thankful. If you are looking for the best weather, I highly recommend June.

How to Get to Sumatra?

A ferry to Tuk-tuk at Lake Toba

From the US, there are no direct flights to Medan, the capital city of the island, so your best bet is to either fly into Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur via your local airline and then fly to Medan, where this itinerary begins, via AirAsia.

From Europe, you will also have to do the same by taking any flights to regional hubs like Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur and flying to Medan from there via AirAsia.

From Asia, there are several flights within Southeast Asia that fly to Medan, mostly transiting via Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur, so you should have no trouble getting to Medan from Asia.

To find a cheap flight to Sumatra, I would recommend you use AirAsia, Skyscanner, or Expedia to look for the cheapest route and schedule so you can compare and pick the best one.

How to Get Around Sumatra?

A person in a private taxi in Sumatra

Sumatra is definitely not an easy place to get around due to its poor road conditions and its mountainous and thick jungle terrain that covers much of the island. To get from one place to another, you will likely have to dedicate an entire day for it, so be sure to keep that in mind when planning.

Tourist Bus: This is probably one of the easiest ways to get around North Sumatra. These tourist buses are operated by travel agencies, and they often run between tourist towns like Lake Toba, Berastagi, Medan, and Bukit Lawang. You can often book them through your accommodation, and they will pick you up from there.

They are a bit more expensive than public buses, but a bit faster as they go direct. When it comes to comfort, it's pretty much the same as they will often fit as many people as they can to maximize profit. That said, it varies from case to case and it's not as bad as you might think. I've been in way worse buses in West Sumatra.

To give you an example, when I was traveling from Lake Toba to Berastagi, we were put in an SUV with 1 person in front, 3 in the middle, and 3 at the back. It was definitely cramped at the back, but people got off along the way, so it got easier as time went on. When I traveled from Bukit Lawang to Medan, there was only another person in my car, so it was much more comfortable then.

The price ranges from 100,000 IDR to 300,000 IDR depending on how far you are looking to travel. For example, Lake Toba to Berastagi is 250,000 IDR, while Lake Toba to Bukit Lawang is 280,000 IDR per person.

A shared taxi in Sumatra

Shared Taxi: Another option that is similar to the above but a bit cheaper is to go with a shared taxi. You can often find these at the airport or bus terminals. They are basically a driver with his car, trying to pool people together just like the tourist bus, but for the locals and the price is a bit cheaper.

This is how I got around in West Sumatra as there is no tourist bus operating outside of North Sumatra (that I know of). The problem with this is it is subject to availability and so if you get to the airport and there is no one heading the same way, you might have to rely on public transportation instead.

Minivan to Lake Toba in Medan

Public Bus: This is your last resort when it comes to getting around Sumatra. In North Sumatra, the public bus/minivan is actually not bad at all. It is extremely cheap, comes with AC, and they don't pack too many people in a car. You just have to know where to go and make your own connection.

I did the Medan to Lake Toba leg, and it went smoothly. I took a DAMRI bus from the airport to the bus terminal in Medan and then caught another bus to Parapat. Then I boarded a ferry to Tuk-tuk, where I stayed overnight. Traveling with public transportation in North Sumatra is not hard as long as you plan carefully.

cramped bus in West Sumatra

Unfortunately, I couldn't say the same for West Sumatra. West Sumatra is less developed when it comes to tourism infrastructure, and you will either have to rough it out or pay for a private taxi.

The bus I was on from Padang to Berastagi was a ride from hell. It had no AC, they fitted 22 people in a 16-seat van, and the main road was closed due to a recent disaster, so we had to take the mountain road. Instead of taking 2 hours like it used to, it took me 6 hours! It's definitely not for the faint of heart!

Private Taxi: Last but not least, you can hire a private taxi to take you from one place to another if you don't mind paying more. For long distances, the price for a private taxi should be around 500,000 IDR or more. You can organize it via your accommodation or travel agencies.

Daily Budget

1 daily budget 0.5 daily budget -1 daily budget -1 daily budget -1 daily budget

This place is quite affordable compared to all the other countries in the world. If you are planning a trip here, you can expect to spend around $25 - $45 USD per day per person, which should include accommodation and three meals.

Please keep in mind that these are suggested daily budgets based on my own style of travel, which leans more towards the budget side of things. If you aim to stick to this budget, anticipate sleeping in dormitories, dining out only occasionally, and being comfortable with the cheapest and most convenient modes of transportation, which often involve a considerable amount of walking.

Is it Safe in Sumatra?

I found Sumatra to be quite safe compared to places like Bali, where petty theft can be more common. Nonetheless, it's always wise to stay vigilant, especially if you're traveling alone. Avoid leaving your belongings unattended, ensure they are securely stored, and trust your instincts; following these precautions should keep you safe.

One thing to consider is transportation. The roads in Sumatra are often narrow and mountainous, which can make for challenging driving conditions. Drivers may also drive aggressively to avoid prolonged traffic delays, so it's essential to always wear seatbelts for safety whenever you travel around Sumatra.

For this itinerary, you will also be trekking in the jungle many times, always wear appropriately. Cover yourself up to avoid mosquitos and leeches, stay away from fluffy caterpillars, and make sure you have good travel insurance that covers just activities before you make the trip into the jungles. You can get travel insurance here.

Which tourist SIM card is best for Indonesia?

The best sim card operator in Indonesia is Telkomsel, and you should be able to grab one right at the airport. For me, it worked wonderfully in every place I mentioned in this itinerary except in the jungles, which is pretty understandable.

If you have a smartphone that supports eSIMs, I highly recommend you take a look at Klook eSIM. They have a variety of data packages, price points, and durations for you to choose from. I got a 30-day 10 GB data esim for only 10 USD.

The setup is fast and instant, and you can buy it prior to your trip, so you don't have to scramble your way to get one at the airport after a long flight. The data speed is also equivalent to what you get with a local SIM card with 4G speed across the entire country.

WIFI connections are also readily available and reliable in most hotels and guesthouses in Sumatra nowadays, so you can also rely on that if you do not want to get a sim card for this trip. I would still recommend you get one though just in case you need to navigate around with your phone.

For more information on eSIMs in Indonesia, click here: Check Indonesia' Available eSIM.

What to Pack for Sumatra?

As you may already know, I am an advocate of light traveling, and indeed, packing light for a journey like this is a unique art form. Here are some packing tips for your upcoming trip to Sumatra:

  • Walking/Hiking Shoes: With all the walking and possible hiking during your travel, a comfortable pair of shoes is a must. I recommend the Timberland 3-Eye Classic Boat Shoes that are my go-to pair for long strolls and hikes.
  • Breathable Shirts: Given the potential for hot weather, pack a few breathable shirts for your outdoor adventures.
  • Shorts/Jeans: Anticipate lots of walking during your travels? Be sure to pack some breathable shorts and a pair of Levi's jeans for when the weather cools. For women, leggings are excellent for both hot and cold climates, so consider packing some as well.
  • Fleece Jacket: For colder weather, layering is the key, and a fleece jacket makes an excellent insulating layer. I recommend the Columbia Steens Mountain Fleece (for women).
  • Outer Shell Jacket: An outer shell jacket is great for windy or rainy conditions. I highly recommend the Columbia Watertight Jacket (for women). It's lightweight, breathable, and even comes in a cool orange color.
  • Microfiber Towel: A Microfiber towel is the ideal backpacker's towel due to its lightness, quick drying, and compressibility.
  • Camera: You should also pack a good camera for your trip so that you can capture all the beautiful experiences you might have. I recommend the Sony a7R V camera together with the Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM II lens, which is probably the highest-performance camera and lens combination you can get right now.
  • Power Bank: Keep your electronics charged on the go with a 20,000+ mAh Power Bank.
  • Water Bottle: The Hydro Flask Trail Water Bottle is a great insulated water bottle to have with you in cities or on hiking trails. It is lightweight and can keep your water cold or warm for more than 12 hours. It's a total game-changer.
  • Universal Adapter: You'll need just one universal adapter to plug in your electronics in any country you visit.
  • Packing Cubes: Packing Cubes will help you save space in your backpack and keep all your belongings organized.
  • Daypack: The Langly Alpha Globetrotter is my go-to everyday camera backpack. It's large enough to carry all my travel gear, and it comes with plenty of slots and pouches. Plus, it's stylish as hell!
  • Large Backpack: You will need a large backpack to carry all of your stuff. I recommend the Osprey Atmos AG 65L backpack. With excellent weight distribution and a lifetime guarantee, you can't go wrong with Osprey.

For more information on what I pack in my backpack for this trip, check out: My Packing List: 60 Travel Essentials.